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Official Outlaw Owners thread - Page 221

post #6601 of 7087
Quote:
Originally Posted by noisebeam View Post

Of course, but that is not the question. What I am curious about is either if there is a known specific difference in output (at matched test conditions) between the two modes or what others are seeing as difference in their setups/rooms.

Also I assume that there is different internal amp EQ applied for each mode - hence the ME vs. MO switch. It could have been designed electronically so levels are matched at same output.

I actually did some measurements between the two modes. MO was way better in my room than ME. I will see if I still have the graphs.
post #6602 of 7087
Ok it does not look way better but it sounded better. These measurements were taken at my last house in about a 9000 ft^3 area open floor plan. I think that this was two subs stacked ontop of each other. No tuning or anything. Just straight up.



The spl is off because the volume was not set up.
post #6603 of 7087
Quote:
Originally Posted by laugsbach View Post

Perfect...thanks cel.smile.gif

I would subtract 2dB to get an idea what the PLUS sub would do...

And don't the Plus subs have a little bit more linear response? I always guessed that Ricci's note about the bump in the 20hz region on the EX, that the tuning was note quite perfect, was probably a result of taking the more optimized Plus design and enlarging the enclosure for the EX.

Either way, in some ways the Plus is the better price/performance value of the two considering the SPL difference is not that much.
post #6604 of 7087
Quote:
Originally Posted by cel4145 View Post

And don't the Plus subs have a little bit more linear response? I always guessed that Ricci's note about the bump in the 20hz region on the EX, that the tuning was note quite perfect, was probably a result of taking the more optimized Plus design and enlarging the enclosure for the EX.

Either way, in some ways the Plus is the better price/performance value of the two considering the SPL difference is not that much.

I would tend to agree with that at the normal prices. However, having obtained the EX during what was apparently the very last time one could get one for 550 bucks shipped seems like the best of both worlds. I can always EQ bumps out.
post #6605 of 7087
Quote:
Originally Posted by JD in NJ View Post

I would tend to agree with that at the normal prices. However, having obtained the EX during what was apparently the very last time one could get one for 550 bucks shipped seems like the best of both worlds. I can always EQ bumps out.

But remember when the Plus was onsale for $467 shipped at the same time? What a deal for dual subs for $900 delivered to your door.
post #6606 of 7087
Quote:
Originally Posted by cel4145 View Post

And don't the Plus subs have a little bit more linear response? I always guessed that Ricci's note about the bump in the 20hz region on the EX, that the tuning was note quite perfect, was probably a result of taking the more optimized Plus design and enlarging the enclosure for the EX. .
For this reason I would very much like to see a Plus vs. EX chart (from the same test set up).
post #6607 of 7087
Quote:
Originally Posted by cel4145 View Post

...was probably a result of taking the more optimized Plus design and enlarging the enclosure for the EX.

I think so...everything is the same but the box is bigger.

I missed the "ported" sound so I added this "little" sub to mix:

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=8

Flat to 8-9Hz in room with a 10" diameter port...no chuffing for me!biggrin.gif

Thanks to Josh Ricci for designing such a cool sub...and living so close to me. smile.gif
post #6608 of 7087
Quote:
Originally Posted by laugsbach View Post

I think so...everything is the same but the box is bigger.

I missed the "ported" sound so I added this "little" sub to mix:

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=8

Flat to 8-9Hz in room with a 10" diameter port...no chuffing for me!biggrin.gif

Thanks to Josh Ricci for designing such a cool sub...and living so close to me. smile.gif

A 10" sub that is tuned to peak in the lower mid 20hz range? That's pretty amazing.
post #6609 of 7087
Quote:
Originally Posted by cel4145 View Post

A 10" sub that is tuned to peak in the lower mid 20hz range? That's pretIty amazing.
It is the port that is 10", the driver is 18"
post #6610 of 7087
Quote:
Originally Posted by noisebeam View Post

It is the port that is 10", the driver is 18"

LOL redface.gif
post #6611 of 7087
Quote:
Originally Posted by grizimes View Post

I've got both my Outlaws on Auralex Grammas. A Plus and an EX. I felt like the difference was night and day, both with clarity and output. Could it be the placebo effect? Possibly, worth the relatively small investment? Yes. Absolutely. Would definitely like to compare actual physical measurements to see the truth though.

I would recommend anyone on the fence about an isolation platform to spend the 50 bucks and decide for themselves. I did and was happy with my decision.
Quote:
Originally Posted by grizimes View Post

That being said, again to any Outlaw owners I would suggest (and recommend) a product from Auralex.

Haven't been on this thread in several months. Got my Outlaw about over a year and a half ago. So far haven't tested it TOO much as I'm in an apt complex and have to be mindful of my neighbors. But did say that reading your post I actually wanted to get around and get something like this for my Outlaw LFM-1 EX and didn't know that companies made these type of things as opposed to just making something "homemade".

Well I just pulled the trigger on my purchase tonight, on an Aurlex Great GRAMMA to put my LFM up off the carpet. Thanks for opinion "grizimes"
post #6612 of 7087
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffw69 View Post

Quick question: I recently got the EX and put it in my basement, which has brand new rather thick plush carpet.
Is there a recommended clearance underneath? I have it on spikes, but it seems like the woofer and ports are right there close to the carpet.
I am running it in ME.
Should I put it up on wooden blocks or something?
Thanks.
I have the same issue. I actually bought my sub off another AVS member so I stole his idea. I have the spikes attached and placed the sub on 4 hockey pucks. You cant't see the hockey pucks and the rubber provides a nice, vibration free separation. Cheap fix and works great.
post #6613 of 7087
Hockey pucks! Brilliant! I'm going to give that a try. Thanks.
post #6614 of 7087
Quote:
Originally Posted by schweich12 View Post

I have the same issue. I actually bought my sub off another AVS member so I stole his idea. I have the spikes attached and placed the sub on 4 hockey pucks. You cant't see the hockey pucks and the rubber provides a nice, vibration free separation.
Hockey pucks are very high density, so they don't absorb much vibration, and that which they do is well above the subwoofer passband. Not that it matters, as there is no transfer of vibration of subwoofer passband frequencies through spikes anyway. If you have a thick carpet and want to increase the clearance to the floor they may be useful, but the only way to know is to measure response with and without them. Chances are it will make no difference. The carpet may look like it will interfere with sound transmission, but ten foot and longer wavelengths that pass through walls like a hot knife through soft butter aren't the least bit fazed by some bits of fiber. Testimonials as to how well isolation devices have worked for them are only as good as the measured results provided by the endorsers.
post #6615 of 7087
Has anyone bottomed out a driver before? Can you describe the sound? I talked to Scott at Outlaw about my issue mentioned a page back and he said he thinks the issue may have to do with audyssey boosting the low frequencies too much. He said that he doesn't think port chuffing is an issue with this sub and thinks the driver was making noise from reaching limits.....isn't this a banging noise when the driver bottoms out? The noise I was getting yesterday on The Bourne Legacy was like air "fluttering" or "purring". All he could recommend was turning dynamic EQ off and replaying the scene to see if the sub still chuffed. Well, turned off dynamic EQ and even reduced the sub trim by 3 db and it still made noise during a particular scene. Not sure what to think at this point, but Scott mentioned that it seems audyssey does weird things with subs. He found it hard to believe that I have the sub dial on only 3 and the AVR trim set my sub -8 after audyssey. He said that's barely using the amp's power. After turning off audyssey and dyn eq and reducing the sub trim in the AVR, there's no way I can be maxing this thing out when listening at -10 volume on the AVR
post #6616 of 7087
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattdub1 View Post

Has anyone bottomed out a driver before? Can you describe the sound? I talked to Scott at Outlaw about my issue mentioned a page back and he said he thinks the issue may have to do with audyssey boosting the low frequencies too much. He said that he doesn't think port chuffing is an issue with this sub and thinks the driver was making noise from reaching limits.....isn't this a banging noise when the driver bottoms out? The noise I was getting yesterday on The Bourne Legacy was like air "fluttering" or "purring". All he could recommend was turning dynamic EQ off and replaying the scene to see if the sub still chuffed. Well, turned off dynamic EQ and even reduced the sub trim by 3 db and it still made noise during a particular scene. Not sure what to think at this point, but Scott mentioned that it seems audyssey does weird things with subs. He found it hard to believe that I have the sub dial on only 3 and the AVR trim set my sub -8 after audyssey. He said that's barely using the amp's power. After turning off audyssey and dyn eq and reducing the sub trim in the AVR, there's no way I can be maxing this thing out when listening at -10 volume on the AVR
I've experienced everything you are talking about with my Plus. Three on the gain seems a bit high, I would turn it down to two and rerun Audyssey and it should put your AVR volume closer to zero. Audyssey can boost lower frequencies to try to even out the response, but you will probably still hear chuffing on some scenes. Have you done the sub crawl to find the best spot in your room? That will help Audyssey out on what it is designed to do and I think it also has a lot to do with what version of Audyssey you have. If you are running in ME you can also try to pull the port plug and move it to the other port. That helped me with a slight rattle issue I was having. If you still have problems you could look at upgrading or add another Outlaw so the single wont have to work so hard. Good luck!
post #6617 of 7087
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattdub1 View Post

Has anyone bottomed out a driver before? Can you describe the sound? I talked to Scott at Outlaw about my issue mentioned a page back and he said he thinks the issue may have to do with audyssey boosting the low frequencies too much. He said that he doesn't think port chuffing is an issue with this sub and thinks the driver was making noise from reaching limits.....isn't this a banging noise when the driver bottoms out? The noise I was getting yesterday on The Bourne Legacy was like air "fluttering" or "purring". All he could recommend was turning dynamic EQ off and replaying the scene to see if the sub still chuffed. Well, turned off dynamic EQ and even reduced the sub trim by 3 db and it still made noise during a particular scene. Not sure what to think at this point, but Scott mentioned that it seems audyssey does weird things with subs. He found it hard to believe that I have the sub dial on only 3 and the AVR trim set my sub -8 after audyssey. He said that's barely using the amp's power. After turning off audyssey and dyn eq and reducing the sub trim in the AVR, there's no way I can be maxing this thing out when listening at -10 volume on the AVR

That's definitely chuffing. Bottoming out is when the voice coil hits the mechanical limit of its excursion and slams into the back plate. It is a clanking sound and is unmistakable. In some driver designs the coil is too small to hit the back plate and so it simply yanks on the spider, but most drivers aren't like that.
post #6618 of 7087
I just picked up a used year and a half old EX for $400 on Craigslist. Was this a good deal? There are a few scratches but overall it seems like it's in good shape.

He has another one available if anyone is in the area of Northeast Wisconsin.
post #6619 of 7087
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick_WI View Post

I just picked up a used year and a half old EX for $400 on Craigslist. Was this a good deal? There are a few scratches but overall it seems like it's in good shape.

He has another one available if anyone is in the area of Northeast Wisconsin.
I would say that's a good price! Where at in northeast Wisconsin? I am in the northeast of Michigan's UP.
post #6620 of 7087
Quote:
Originally Posted by walke108 View Post

I would say that's a good price! Where at in northeast Wisconsin? I am in the northeast of Michigan's UP.

http://sheboygan.craigslist.org/ele/3571824676.html
post #6621 of 7087
Quote:
Thanks, I was looking at Northern Wisconsin section.
post #6622 of 7087
Yeah, sorry. We tend to look at Wisconsin a bit differently down here. It's probably more east central Wisconsin rather than truly northeast.
post #6623 of 7087
Quote:
Originally Posted by shadyJ View Post

That's definitely chuffing. Bottoming out is when the voice coil hits the mechanical limit of its excursion and slams into the back plate. It is a clanking sound and is unmistakable. In some driver designs the coil is too small to hit the back plate and so it simply yanks on the spider, but most drivers aren't like that.

Hey thanks for this great answer, I was hearing the exact same noise when I was watching Total Recall and then also on Cloverfield and the sub was barely turned up. I notice I only heard the sound on certain scenes and my living isn't all that big. I got the Outlaw Lfm-1 plus about 3 weeks ago.
post #6624 of 7087
Anyone know if it's possible to replace the plexi glass on the top? Or does anyone know how to remove scratches from it?
Edited by mattdub1 - 2/9/13 at 10:17am
post #6625 of 7087
Car wax? How deep.
post #6626 of 7087
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattdub1 View Post

Anyone know if it's possible to replace the plexi glass on the top? Or does anyone know how to remove scratches from it?

Automotive headlight lens restorer will probably work as well as anything. Depends on how deep the scratches are.
post #6627 of 7087
Quote:
Originally Posted by xMEATx View Post

Car wax? How deep.
. They're pretty fine scratches on the plexi but are noticeable. All I did is wipe the dust from the top w microfiber and now there's all these very light scratches
post #6628 of 7087
^^^ I had the same thing happen. I used car wax with a micro fiber cloth and then used another micro fiber cloth to take the wax off and they look as good as new and even shinier.
post #6629 of 7087
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaramill View Post


Haven't been on this thread in several months. Got my Outlaw about over a year and a half ago. So far haven't tested it TOO much as I'm in an apt complex and have to be mindful of my neighbors. But did say that reading your post I actually wanted to get around and get something like this for my Outlaw LFM-1 EX and didn't know that companies made these type of things as opposed to just making something "homemade".

Well I just pulled the trigger on my purchase tonight, on an Aurlex Great GRAMMA to put my LFM up off the carpet. Thanks for opinion "grizimes"

Did you ever get the sub up off the carpet on the Gramma? If so, what were your thoughts?
post #6630 of 7087
Quote:
Originally Posted by flickhtguru View Post

^^^ I had the same thing happen. I used car wax with a micro fiber cloth and then used another micro fiber cloth to take the wax off and they look as good as new and even shinier.

Might be worth a try. Did you use paste or liquid car wax?
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