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Flaming Oak Cinema (A Cathan Production) - Page 11

post #301 of 2687
8/26/07 at 6:19pm
You could put in a candy cabinet above the fridge. Make some doors with glass windows and it would look pretty nice (assuming you can see that side, if not then maybe the blanket/pillow storage idea is a good one too).

Mike
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post #302 of 2687
8/26/07 at 6:59pm
Looking at this pic



I don't think drywall is glued to wall. there is a 2x? just visible (right top corner) which is flush with the wall. Not sure how your going to deal with that without bumping out and impacting on stairs.

And I think you should be feeling slightly inadequate with that scape pile

Cheers,
Mark
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post #303 of 2687
8/27/07 at 8:21am
Thread Starter 
Looks like you are correct, Mark. I never noticed that before. Eitherway, I'm not sure how to go about covering that wall. Gluing thin furring strips onto the way and then gluing thin drywall up may be my only option.

Anyone have any other ideas?
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post #304 of 2687
8/27/07 at 8:38am
Do you have code requirements for vapour barrier / insulation in your area? that may affect what you can/can't do.

If it were me, I would cut another stringer that fits the contour of the stair case and nail it to the existing one (you would have to cut back the lip of the steps though). That would give you another 1 1/2" to work with. Then you can use the existing stringer as a bottom plate to nail 2x4's sideways (or 2x2's I guess). It looks lik you will have to cut back the existing drywall a bit and nail a 2x4 perpendicular to the existing studs to give you a place to nail the top of the new drywall. You'll have a small (2") shelf running from the top of the stairs, but I think it will look ok. If you need more room, just set the new stringer out further and put blocking in between it and the old stringer. Hopefully that makes sense.
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post #305 of 2687
8/27/07 at 9:09am
Thread Starter 
That makes sense and is very doable. Excellent suggestion, Craig.
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post #306 of 2687
8/27/07 at 9:17am
One guy who bid on my work had suggested putting a ledge from trim (minute) at the transition point where the lower wall meets the higher wall. When we did the actual work, the guys who did it scrapped that since there was concern that the lower wall wouldn't meet the code for minimum tread width. Since the guys were doing veneer plaster, not regular drywall, they went with a bonding agent for the concrete and used plaster to cover the entire wall, stair tread to ceiling. It was a bit of an upcharge, but came out really nice.
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post #307 of 2687
8/27/07 at 10:08am
Is it an interior or exterior wall? If interior gluing drywall or a plaster skim may be OK, if exterior then I believe code in Fairfax means you need to insulate/vapor barrier as Craig mentions.

Cheers,
Mark
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post #308 of 2687
8/27/07 at 10:14am
Thread Starter 
Interior I guess. It's below the garage. I seem to recall the inspector asking about that as well. I didn't make the connection at the time as I was too focused on plumbing.

Dave - Plaster is another good idea, but something I would have to hire out.
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post #309 of 2687
8/27/07 at 10:58am
If you cannot get the the other side I believ it would be treated as an exterior wall.

Cheers,
Mark
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post #310 of 2687
8/27/07 at 11:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BritInVA View Post

If you cannot get the the other side I believ it would be treated as an exterior wall.

Cheers,
Mark

Assuming it is deemed an exterior wall, will VA code allow styrofoam board as insulation / VB? If so, you could still use the "furring" method I mentioned and put the board in between the studs. You should check the code though as it is typically an exterior application. Another possibility is to have it spray foamed (vapour barrier / insulation all-in-one).
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post #311 of 2687
8/27/07 at 12:25pm
Thread Starter 
Speaking of spraying stuff. I still need to do a lot of fire-blocking. I need to call the inspectors office to see if the spray crack sealer stuff is allowable. If so, it would make the job a whole lot easier.
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post #312 of 2687
8/27/07 at 12:29pm
If you mean the expanding foam I beleave answer is No......will melt with heat. I used mixture of drywall and fiberglass insulation......believe thats OK for Fairfax too. Put a call into the county and ask the Q's on the wall and fire blocking.

Cheers,
Mark
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post #313 of 2687
8/27/07 at 12:48pm
Thread Starter 
This is what I was thinking about - http://touchnseal.com/gunfoamII.htm

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post #314 of 2687
8/27/07 at 6:20pm
I used the orange stuff, along with OSB and rockwool. Tart Lumber sells it. I haven't seen it at the local big boxes.
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post #315 of 2687
8/28/07 at 6:52pm
Thread Starter 
So the first HVAC bid came in. The rep from F.H. Furr left me a message on my machine while I was out playing with the dogs. He just said "Looks like it will cost around 12-13,000 to do what you want. Call me if you have any questions." Ahhhh 12k for the unit and to help re-do one trunk line!?!? At least that's what I'm assume the quote is for. Because while that is outrageous, it would be even more so if that was the quote to put in a mini-split system.

Anyway, I'm just hoping that this is just a crazy bid cause they didn't want the project, or else I may just decide to screw HVAC and hand each guest a scuba tank and regulator to suck air off of. At $5 a fill it would be cheaper.

ccubeman - Thanks. I'll call Fairfax tomorrow. Tart isn't that far of a drive. May just take off Thursday to do it and visit the brewery for some growler fills while I'm in the area.
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post #316 of 2687
8/28/07 at 8:12pm
Holy cow, that seems ridiculous!! I'm with you on doing something else if that's what all the other bids come in at. Can't be that high...

Mike
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post #317 of 2687
8/28/07 at 8:25pm
McCrea does all the service for my system. I have a new home and all the work is covered under warranty, so... I'm not too sure on their pricing for new work. I've had a couple HVAC issues since I moved in. They promptly resolved the issue and were extremely courteous to boot.

http://www.mccreaway.com/services.htm
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post #318 of 2687
8/29/07 at 2:07pm
Thread Starter 
So I've been browsing for HVAC units online. Anyone think I would be completely insane for thinking about buying and installing a full unit on my own? Any reason to spend a ton of money on a high end unit for just the theater? Looks like I could get the full kit excluding ductwork for $1200-1500. How hard could it be to install it and just pay a service to come in and charge/tune it once I'm done?

http://www.acfactoryoutlet.com/home.asp?id=125&dif=no
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post #319 of 2687
8/29/07 at 2:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathan View Post

So I've been browsing for HVAC units online. Anyone think I would be completely insane for thinking about buying and installing a full unit on my own? Any reason to spend a ton of money of a high end unit for just the theater? Looks like I could get the full kit excluding ductwork for $1200-1500. How hard could it be to install it and just pay a service to come in and charge/tune it once I'm done?

http://www.acfactoryoutlet.com/home.asp?id=125&dif=no

I re-routed all of the ductwork in our old house with no problems, so I'm sure you can install it easily enough. Just make sure you wear thick leather gloves I believe the trick with HVAC is understanding pressures, load factors, etc... In other words - system design. You might want to ping uxbridge and see if he can provide any guidance. He has helped lots of people with all things HVAC. And, again, I would make sure you understand your local codes for such things inside and out.
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post #320 of 2687
8/30/07 at 3:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathan View Post

So I've been browsing for HVAC units online. Anyone think I would be completely insane for thinking about buying and installing a full unit on my own? Any reason to spend a ton of money on a high end unit for just the theater? Looks like I could get the full kit excluding ductwork for $1200-1500. How hard could it be to install it and just pay a service to come in and charge/tune it once I'm done?

http://www.acfactoryoutlet.com/home.asp?id=125&dif=no

In addition to ductwork, you'll have to run the wiring for the unit as well. Which means you'll need a new(or use an existing unused) 30-50 amp circuit. Copper tubing will need to be run to the from the air-handler to the compressor. I believe it's required to pressure test and vacuum pump the lines for 24 hours prior to charging. If it's a high efficiency furnace, the plumbing will need to be run to grab outside air, in addition to plumbing for the condensation drain.
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post #321 of 2687
8/30/07 at 3:39am
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys.

Electrical ought to not be a problem - I still have space on my main panel and will be putting in a sub panel for the theater. I wouldn't add a furnace to the unit. The basement is plenty warm during the winter. It would just be AC for the room. Plumbing is easy too, the drain pipe is nearby. Basically what I'm starting to think is buy the design and equipment through a dealer and once it's time for the final system checks to bring them in again. I'm just hoping I can find someone to play that game with me to a tune other than $12,000.
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post #322 of 2687
8/30/07 at 10:07am
$12K sounds ridiculous to me. I wound up re-routing one of the two air ducts the fed the dining room upsatirs to an outlet in the ceiling. The dining room is where the thermostat sits, and we keep those outlets closed anyway or it cycles the AC and heat constantly. The one duct pipes in plenty of air for enough circulation in the basement room. I added baseboard heat as I was concerned more about it being cold than hot. As it turns out, I wind up turning it on only briefly when I get in tht room, as it is very well insulated and retains heat.

Good luck.

Jeff
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post #323 of 2687
8/30/07 at 11:43am
Thread Starter 
Quick question - what length screw do I use to install the bumper part of RSIC clips? Finally framing the theater today.

Also, any big deal to use drywall screws to fasten the metal part to the joist? I'm running out of wood screws and don't feel like making another HD run today.
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post #324 of 2687
8/30/07 at 11:56am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by strange_brew View Post

Do you have code requirements for vapour barrier / insulation in your area? that may affect what you can/can't do.

If it were me, I would cut another stringer that fits the contour of the stair case and nail it to the existing one.

Just spoke with the inspector - 36" is the minimum width for the tread to count as one of my egresses. Just measured - the current width is 34". Neighbor's finished basement has the same 34" width. I guess this is a common violation around here.

Also, the fireblocking foam stuff is okay so long as it is "UL listed". He just suggested to keep a can on hand in case the inspector had any questions.
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post #325 of 2687
8/30/07 at 12:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathan View Post

Just spoke with the inspector - 36" is the minimum width for the tread to count as one of my egresses. Just measured - the current width is 34".

The treads thruout my house are 34"

Did he offer any guidance on how to drywall the stair wall?

Cheers,
Mark
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post #326 of 2687
8/30/07 at 12:21pm
Thread Starter 
Perhaps he meant 36" in the required width wall to wall. All my stairs look to be 34" wide as well. I did ask him for suggestions and he said he'd need to see it. I figure I'll fail the first inspection anyway, so I'll ask then.
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post #327 of 2687
8/30/07 at 7:05pm
Michael:

I used #12 X 2" phillips head wood screws to hold my RSIC clips in the wall top plate and 1 1/4" drywall screws to hold the clip to the joists.

Framing inspector came by today for a look-see and passed my framing. He even said it was a tight/neat job...better than most he's seen [done by home owners, I assumed].

He was really concerned about the clips (I used DC04's) and the distance between the top plate and the joists, but when I told him it was *ALL* giong to be filled with insulation, he smiled and said that's what he wanted to hear.

Tomorrow begins the plumbing for the bathroom and the bar sink.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathan View Post

Quick question - what length screw do I use to install the bumper part of RSIC clips? Finally framing the theater today.

Also, any big deal to use drywall screws to fasten the metal part to the joist? I'm running out of wood screws and don't feel like making another HD run today.
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post #328 of 2687
8/31/07 at 7:51am
Thread Starter 
Good luck with the plumbing. I'm glad to have that part behind me.

Just met with the first HVAC company of the day (two more are coming out). I think I found the right guy. He's done a theater install before, totally gets what we're trying to do, is willing to work with me on keeping the price down and really wants to do the job because it's "a cool project and different from the typical install he does." He ball parked me 5-6k for everything, but could help me get to my target. Simple things like giving me a shipping list of stuff to buy at HD could cut a large chunk of cost (ex. pay $10 for a HD register versus $50 from him, etc). I'm hoping to keep it below or close to $4000.

Anyway, I'm real excited.
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post #329 of 2687
8/31/07 at 7:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathan View Post

Good luck with the plumbing. I'm glad to have that part behind me.

Just met with the first HVAC company of the day (two more are coming out). I think I found the right guy. He's done a theater install before, totally gets what we're trying to do, is willing to work with me on keeping the price down and really wants to do the job because it's "a cool project and different from the typical install he does." He ball parked me 5-6k for everything, but could help me get to my target. Simple things like giving me a shipping list of stuff to buy at HD could cut a large chunk of cost (ex. pay $10 for a HD register versus $50 from him, etc). I'm hoping to keep it below or close to $4000.

Anyway, I'm real excited.

Isn't it amazing how much variance in bids you can get? When I got my drywall bids the range was $7000 - $15,000. So I hired a drywall guy and taping guy separately and did it for $4500, lol (I did the entire 1300 sq. ft. of my basement in case you're wondering why so high). Perserverance pays! Sounds like you found a good situation. Congrats for sticking with it!
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post #330 of 2687
8/31/07 at 8:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathan View Post

Good luck with the plumbing. I'm glad to have that part behind me.

Just met with the first HVAC company of the day (two more are coming out). I think I found the right guy. He's done a theater install before, totally gets what we're trying to do, is willing to work with me on keeping the price down and really wants to do the job because it's "a cool project and different from the typical install he does." He ball parked me 5-6k for everything, but could help me get to my target. Simple things like giving me a shipping list of stuff to buy at HD could cut a large chunk of cost (ex. pay $10 for a HD register versus $50 from him, etc). I'm hoping to keep it below or close to $4000.

Anyway, I'm real excited.

My HVAC quote, granted not in your neck of the woods, was around 5K. 1 ton unit. Electic coil heat, 6 supplies, 2 returns, 2 zone system. So you may of found your man.
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