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Official Westinghouse TX Series ( TX-42F430S, TX-47F430S ) Owner's Thread - Page 201

post #6001 of 6156
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhobart View Post

It's my understanding that this is due to the industry licensing and standards agreement and the Federal government is not involved. I might be misinformed, of course :-)

You may be right. From what I understand it reasoning has something to do with copy protection. Not sure what that has to do with passing digital audio through from one source to another. Honestly how is it any different from me running it directly to my stereo? Also, not sure what the downside to Westinghouse not complying. Are they suddenly going to not be allowed to make TVs? Who would enforce that?
post #6002 of 6156
Well, manufacturers provide HDMI connections under license. They could be sued for breaking the terms of that license and the court could issue a "cease and desist" order for the manufacture of the TVs with HDMI connections.

I'm not saying that is how things would develop and I'm not a lawyer (nor do I want to be one!!). But complying to the various standards which are licensed is important to allow equipment to work together.
post #6003 of 6156
Hi,

I have 42F430S.We got power problem and TV stuck with amber light.I tried alot of thing but i couldnt fix it.Yesterday,while i was trying to flash firmware,TV turn on.I turned it off but didnt turn on back again.I tried flash 1.42 (TV is LX model not CX) didnt flash. i put CX file on USB.It flashed it went to blue light but TV wont turn on amber light is on.I tried another CX firmware 1.63.it flashed but nothing happend.

Part # TW-51121-C042A
Serial# 5112j74101272

How can i turn it back to normal firmware.


Thank you
Edited by hsumer - 11/3/12 at 11:41pm
post #6004 of 6156
I tried to TX-42F430S - v1.4.0 - editted,it didnt work and i tried SusanII_v1.3.0_20071026 ,system update it but right now it is completly dead.Amber light is on and doesnt see any usb drive anymore
post #6005 of 6156
Quote:
Originally Posted by hsumer View Post

I tried to TX-42F430S - v1.4.0 - editted,it didnt work and i tried SusanII_v1.3.0_20071026 ,system update it but right now it is completly dead.Amber light is on and doesnt see any usb drive anymore

Same for me.

Can anyone give me an educated guess on what I need to replace?

So far, there are these possible components to replace:

-4H.V2308.021/D​2 RIGHT inverter board
-4H.V2308.031/D​2 LEFT inverter board
-5604419R01 POWER SUPPLY
-V420H1-C07 TCON LCD controller
-55.3YV01.D04 Main Board

Start with the main board?
post #6006 of 6156
Well, I'm really hoping this thread is still alive in some ways. I don't seem to be having the issues with my tv that most of you are having, but I still have issues. My issues simply revolve around the HDMI input. To be 100% honest, I'm not sure they have ever worked at all. I know over the years, I've tried to plug in various things in through the HDMI ports (Xbox, receiver, cable box, and now a Blu-Ray player) and none of them have worked. I've done a lot of reading on here before posting and seeing as I've read multiple different ways to flash firmware updates, I'm not even 100% sure I've been doing it right at all. I've tried flashing the edited v1.4, the OSD 1.4.2, at least one of the susan versions, and have still had no luck. I have a flash drive I formatted to FAT32 and have been using to try to flash the updates. Currently the tv firmware says 5121_v1.3.0 (or something similar to that). The part number is: TW-51211-C047A Model Number is: TX-47F430S. Everything else on the tv works fine. Audio, video, every other input, works completely fine. The only other issue I've ever had with the tv was image burn in, but I can deal with that.

What I'm looking for is a few things: 1) Is out of date firmware the most likely cause of my tv not reading hdmi inputs? 2) Which firmware version(s) should fix this problem if it is the problem? 3) What is the correct/easiest/best process to update firmware? I've heard unplugging the tv, just turning it off, letting it sit, holding power buttons, not holding power buttons, using the remote, etc. I'm really just looking for the best option. 4) If the problem isn't the firmware, what could it be and what is the best solution?

Honestly, I'd like to avoid buying a new tv, but that isn't 100% out of the question. I thank everyone in advance for any help with my issue, and if you do need more information from me, please let me know, I'll gladly supply it to you!
post #6007 of 6156
Quote:
Originally Posted by treatednub View Post

Well, I'm really hoping this thread is still alive in some ways. I don't seem to be having the issues with my tv that most of you are having, but I still have issues. My issues simply revolve around the HDMI input. To be 100% honest, I'm not sure they have ever worked at all. I know over the years, I've tried to plug in various things in through the HDMI ports (Xbox, receiver, cable box, and now a Blu-Ray player) and none of them have worked. I've done a lot of reading on here before posting and seeing as I've read multiple different ways to flash firmware updates, I'm not even 100% sure I've been doing it right at all. I've tried flashing the edited v1.4, the OSD 1.4.2, at least one of the susan versions, and have still had no luck. I have a flash drive I formatted to FAT32 and have been using to try to flash the updates. Currently the tv firmware says 5121_v1.3.0 (or something similar to that). The part number is: TW-51211-C047A Model Number is: TX-47F430S. Everything else on the tv works fine. Audio, video, every other input, works completely fine. The only other issue I've ever had with the tv was image burn in, but I can deal with that.
What I'm looking for is a few things: 1) Is out of date firmware the most likely cause of my tv not reading hdmi inputs? 2) Which firmware version(s) should fix this problem if it is the problem? 3) What is the correct/easiest/best process to update firmware? I've heard unplugging the tv, just turning it off, letting it sit, holding power buttons, not holding power buttons, using the remote, etc. I'm really just looking for the best option. 4) If the problem isn't the firmware, what could it be and what is the best solution?
Honestly, I'd like to avoid buying a new tv, but that isn't 100% out of the question. I thank everyone in advance for any help with my issue, and if you do need more information from me, please let me know, I'll gladly supply it to you!

No, not accepting HDMI inputs is not an issue with the firmware. I've not ever had any problems with flashing the firmware (unlike others) by just following the recommendations in the manual and in the many posts here in the forum.

From your description of what you have tried I assume that you have tried multiple different HDMI cables and also have tried the different HDMI ports (sorry if you have done this, but I have learned over the years to double-check even the most obvious simple solutions!). Since the the multiple HDMI ports are not connected directly to the processor but rather through an auto-switching port, if none of them are working it would suggest to me that the problem lies in that circuitry. That's the one section which would affect the HDMI but none of the other video inputs.

I've never had occasion to open up my set so I don't know if this is anything that can be readily fixed, sorry. My system continues to work well so I also am avoiding getting a replacement as long as possible to save money. The steep decline in HDTV prices and the end-of-year clearance sales starting now after Christmas do make it a reasonable time to shop around. I know that when I do get around to replacing my set it won't be a Westinghouse [my first Westinghouse set was killed by the super-power-saving standby bug in the firmware, fortunately covered by the warranty - but totally inexcusable to have such a bug].

Good luck, Mike
post #6008 of 6156
Hi- hoping i post this correctly. I just updated to xfinity and they no longer control the volume through the cable box. I have a 42" westinghouse tx-42f430s. I also have a philips HTS3555 system, I was always able to bypass the tv and run audio from cable box to the audio reciever and control the volume of my show or movie.

I guess as im not very understanding of "specs" I have tried every possible combination of audio cable out on my tv, to audio in (tv) audio reciever- with every available audio setting on the westy. Is it even possible to do this? the new remote also removes "input" buttons- you can only control the tv, or the cable box.

Ideally I would like my HTS set to a volume a choose and be able to throttle it with westy volume.

sorry if this is redundant but any help is appreciated : )

Christine
post #6009 of 6156
Where abouts in Minnesota?
post #6010 of 6156
Hi all,

This thread is very informative but has not solved an issue I'm facing with my set now. Here are my symptoms:

1) Plug in the TV. It shows a black screen with an amber LED.

2) Also, plug in the TV. Starts with an amber LED but does load the boot screen and get to a blue LED. Sometimes the screen has a "Detecting..." box in the top middle, indicating that it is looking for video signals. Regardless, the TV begins displaying garbage vertical lines. Unplugging and immediately replugging the TV repeats these symptoms.

I haven't been able to track down specific known symptoms for when the main board or the power supply go bust. I have attempted to load the different firmware listed in this threat. Using the same memory stick, the TV does not recognize "TX-42F430S - v1.4.0 - editted (1)" or "01_OSD_FW_V1.4.0", but it does recognize "SusanII_v1.6.3". Instructions I followed are are:

1) Unplug the TV.
2) Put the USB drive in the service port.
3) Plug in the TV.
4) Wait 30 seconds. The LED should start amber and then become a flashing purple.
5) Wait about 5 minutes (but possibly also 7-8 hours) for the flashing purple LED to become blue.
6) Disconnect the USB drive.
7) Press the power button to turn on the TV.

Following these instructions, the custom firmware did not get past the amber LED; it flashed purple once and then stayed amber; the TV also does this when no USB sticks are plugged in. Susan II got past the amber LED to the flashing purple, but after about 8 hours, it didn't stop flashing, and attempts to turn on the TV resulted in the first symptoms, about the Amber LED of Death and the "Detecting..." box and vertical lines.

Based on post #5731, I attempt to replace all "exit 1" with "exit 0" in the Susan II firmware. This did not have any impact on the symptom.

You're more than welcome to help me diagnose and fix this broken TV if you want. smile.gif Thanks in advance for all help!
post #6011 of 6156
I too am attempting to "fix" my Westinghouse 42" LCD TV with most of the symptoms described here in this thread. I have purchased and replaced the Power board with no improvement in symptoms. I was able to get the TV to change to blue LED and start receiving over the air TV signals by using a hair dryer to heat up the caps in the power board output side. That's when I asked a repair person on ebay what he thought about the heat diagnosis. He said that when caps go somewhat dry, heating them up will get them working somewhat again as to isolate the problem ones...hence I bought a different power board but that hasn't turned out to solve the problem. So I have a good power board if someone wants to buy it from me!

I decided to keep up with the heating by hair dryer and found that when I removed the shield from the main input board and started directing the heat on the caps on this board only, I was able to get the set to begin functioning again so it must have been that I was directing the heat towards the main board when i was heating up the power board. I now direct the heat only at the main board with the power board loose and floating so it is significantly away from the main board.

I've purchased some replacement caps and they should arrive later this week. I'll try recapping a few suspect ones that have 0-85C temp range while others have 0-108C range. Then I'll have a clearer idea of what the "real" problem is. If anyone has "fixed" their main board by component repair, please let us know what you did. I'm also suspecting that the solder bump RAM chips might have intermittent contacts as I've run into that problem on some laptops I've fixed.
Edited by orgwood - 4/23/13 at 3:46am
post #6012 of 6156
Got my caps in and found the time to start re-capping the signal/main board yesterday. I started with one 100uF 85 C cap up near the power connector but found that not to be the problem..remember I'm leaving in the new caps so this could be a progressive repair. I then focused the heat down towards the middle of the board on the right side opposite the heat sink and intended to replace them in groups of identical values where the large FETs are...2 - 47uF @ 50V, then 1 - 1000uF @ 6.3V and I thought I could tell that the set was responding to less heat. I finally replaced a single 470 uF @ 16V that is on top of the 150 inductor before I had to replace the 3 - 220 uF @ 16V down in the FET area and lo and behold, the set began working properly again. I have been doing my repairs while this TV is in my garage that I keep around 40 F for our very long winter this year so I'm pretty confident that this fixed my main board. I was getting pretty worried that I had a semiconductor intermittentcy but am confident that this was just a bad cap issue where those FET inductor switching supplies just wear down/out the caps over time ESR surges or something like that. I'll put it back together soon and get back here if I find out anymore that changes this repair.cool.gif
post #6013 of 6156
Not to beat the dead cap issue too hard, but if it's the same main board,



there are some large caps down by the tuner that might have gone bad...I think they are 1000uF and I bought some for my 42" Westinghouse LCD but didn't need to replace them. If you want to buy them from me, just get in touch and we'll work it out for economy shipping from White Bear Lake, MN. Dave orgwood at iaxs dot net
post #6014 of 6156
Quote:
Originally Posted by orgwood View Post

Not to beat the dead cap issue too hard, but if it's the same main board,



there are some large caps down by the tuner that might have gone bad...I think they are 1000uF and I bought some for my 42" Westinghouse LCD but didn't need to replace them. If you want to buy them from me, just get in touch and we'll work it out for economy shipping from White Bear Lake, MN. Dave orgwood at iaxs dot net

Thanks, I'll check those out.
post #6015 of 6156
Hi all,

I have a lockup problem on my TX-42F430S. Amber light, no boot up screen, no picture, no sound. I read through this forum and have tried the basic steps (unplug, plug back in, hold the power button while unplugged....) outlined in earlier posts with no success. I would like to try to update the firmware before I take it off the wall but my main problem is that I can't find a site to download updated firmware. The Westinghouse site is either not offering firmware anymore or they've hidden the link very well. Other sites that I've seen mentioned in the forum are not valid.

Does anyone know where I can get the firmware?

My other problem is that to get the serial number and model number I have to take the tv off the wall anyway and I'm not quite sure how I'm going to get around that. But that's my fault for not writing the serial number down when I bought it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm exasperated!
post #6016 of 6156
Please ignore the above post.

On page 192 of this forum there is a thread from user ekztal posted on 12/9/09. There you will find a link to a custom firmware update.

If anyone knows where the Westinghouse firmware updates can be downloaded I would appreciate the information.
post #6017 of 6156
If the firmware update doesn't revive your set, please read my recent posts...I looked long and hard for a "fix" before I went the hardware route and replaced a defective cap on the signal/main board that was dried out from the heat. I suspect that some of the firmware problems are also related to marginal power rails caused by bad caps and the computer messes up the firmware itself. Like I said, I have a power board that I know works and I've got it up on eBay right now at below my cost - orgwood is my ID. If that isn't your problem, then I'd move on to the main board and try the hair dryer trick of heating up selective caps to see if it comes alive again.
post #6018 of 6156
Quote:
Originally Posted by orgwood View Post

Not to beat the dead cap issue too hard, but if it's the same main board,



there are some large caps down by the tuner that might have gone bad...I think they are 1000uF and I bought some for my 42" Westinghouse LCD but didn't need to replace them. If you want to buy them from me, just get in touch and we'll work it out for economy shipping from White Bear Lake, MN. Dave orgwood at iaxs dot net

You are a life saver. I replaced the single 470uF 16v, and after reading up a bit, I replaced it with 470uF 25v. I went with higher voltage because I believe it's getting burnt out by higher voltage coming through, they chose to put in a cheap one. For anyone interested, you can use higher known voltage (here it's anything 16v or greater), but always keep the uF the same.

I had all the tools but could not do a clean desolder of the legs. So I just cut the capacitor out leaving the stubs. I measured the bad capcitor it was 364 uF, WAY below the 10% threshold for a capacitor, so it was safe to say it was bad. Then I just solder in the new capacitor on top of the stubs. So far so good.

I edited your picture and circle the capacitor that I replaced for anyone interested.

post #6019 of 6156
Yes - that's the one I found fixed my problem. It's been over 3 weeks now and the set is working like new!

I looked at those caps again and if it's the same board, they are 680uF x 16V and I think there are 3 of them - at least that's what I have. Since everything else seems to work fine on your set, me thinks the tuner caps are dry. Try heating them with a hair dryer for around 3-5 minutes holding it about 8" away to see if you can reset the main board and get the tuner active again. Then you'll know if these will help. I've got some other types too that I bought if you find more in that area that are suspect. I've been using a Radio Shack solder sucker iron to get around the leads and gently tilt them back and forth until I can extract the cap. Then I suck out the remaining solder and/or push a needle point through the hole while hot to get it cleared enough for the new leads to go through. Once seated, I use the same tool to re-solder ...it just has more heat capacity than an iron tip and it surrounds the lead to heat up the copper power plane more evenly.


I'm not certain the higher voltage is essential but it won't hurt. The important thing is to use a cap designed for the ESR of the switching supply it's in.

For All:
I have some extra caps for other places on that board that I don't need...let me know if you need them! Also have a power board that I know works. It's on eBay right now for less than my cost.
Edited by orgwood - 5/16/13 at 12:29pm
post #6020 of 6156
Quote:
Originally Posted by tokmelo View Post

Gixxer331, these are the steps i followed:


1. Remove Tv power cord.

2. Insert usb in tv port.

3. Plug tv power cord.

4. I did not press the on/off button. The update started with a purple LED and did not blink as Westinghouse instructions says.

5. Wait about 3 and half minutes until the LED turn blue.

6. Remove USB.

7. Press on/off button once to turn off tv. The LED goes to amber.

8. I press the on/off button again for 10 seconds and the tv turned on. Some people recomends for this step to remove/plug power cord.


Hope this helps!


Mine stays Amber the whole time any idea? What size flash drive can I use, I'm trying it with a 4gig one I have. All I need to do is put the TGZ file on the flash drive correct?
TV is a TX-42F430S
Part Number TW-51122-C042A
post #6021 of 6156
For you guys that replaced the CAP the one circled on my board is a 470uf 16v. Should I replace it with a the same or go larger. Also I have nothing on my TV, no logo, picture or anything. Just an Amber light.

Please let me know what you think.

Thanks
post #6022 of 6156
My set started taking longer and longer to turn on from the power button being depressed for around 5-10 seconds...then it finally wouldn't come on at all. The power light stayed amber even though there were 2 LEDs on the signal board in the picture that were green! That capacitor should remain a 470uF but the voltage can be higher...the other guy put in a 25V...I'd prefer to stay at 16V but make sure it's one designed for switching power supplies...not general purpose because it gets a lot of pulsing from the LC circuit it's in...I think they're called low ESR caps. Be careful when de-soldering the leads that you don't over heat the PC board...follow my instructions and use a solder sucker as an iron by surrounding the leads and tilting the cap back and forth from one lead to the other until it is loose - then suck out the solder or stick a needle through the hole from the component side so the replacement cap can be inserted. Re-solder the connections using that same iron so it heats it up thoroughly to get solder to surround the lead into the hole. Good luck! Dave
post #6023 of 6156
Would this one work, it's the only one I can find that is close.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103624
post #6024 of 6156
No. Please replace it with a 105C part and with a 10% tolerance and low ESR specs, not general purpose. You're asking for a short life by using this cap! eek.gif Dave
post #6025 of 6156
Orgwood -

I was getting ready to check the caps issue (didn't have a hair dryer and kept forgetting to pick one up), and was disconnecting the cables and found the OTHER end of the antenna cable had come loose somehow. I had checked the end attached to the set right away and it was fine. I don't know how/when the other end had come loose!

So it was my own STUPIDITY that initiated the original post. The tuner section of my TX-42F430S is working just fine now.

Thanks for the advice on dealing with the caps. I've kept a copy of your post for future reference if needed.

Sorry about that, Mike
post #6026 of 6156
Quote:
Originally Posted by orgwood View Post

No. Please replace it with a 105C part and with a 10% tolerance and low ESR specs, not general purpose. You're asking for a short life by using this cap! eek.gif Dave

This one

http://www.amazon.com/Rubycon-MCZ-Radial-Electrolytic-Capacitor/dp/B00ABMDF54/ref=pd_sbs_indust_1
post #6027 of 6156
I had a problem with a TX-47F430S locking up. It would just freeze and then it would not restart. It had to be unplugged for a long time (presumably to let the main board discharge) before you could attempt to turn it on again and then you had about a 50% chance it would turn on.
I checked the caps on the main board for both capacitance and Equivalent Series Resistance (ESR). I found C51 to be bad. That is the same cap identified by radioactive21 in an earlier post. It is a 470uF 16V cap, made by KMG. It had an extremely high ESR value of 15 ohms. Also, there are five 220uF 16V caps, also made by KMG, that had ESR of between 0.7 and 1.0 ohms. A good cap should be under 0.1 ohms. I think C51 was the problem, but I replaced them all to be sure.
That fixed the problem. No more lock ups.
I hate to think how many people have thrown away one of these televisions because a 50 cent capacitor went bad.
I pulled several other caps to test, but all the others tested good.
The caps all look normal. No swelling or leaking. If you just check capacitance, they will probably pass. You must also check for ESR.
Just a plug for ESR meters. I have an inexpensive model ESR70 from Peak. They are made in the UK. My ESR meter has been one of best tools I have for this type of trouble shooting. Well worth the investment.
Edited by CDGraves - 5/19/13 at 10:37pm
post #6028 of 6156
This is a photo to show which caps I found to be bad on the TX47F430S main board. This board has "48.70E01.01A" and "W421TA FX69 MB" stamped on it. The really bad C51 is circled in red. It is a 470uF 16V cap that had an ESR value of 15 ohms. There are also five 220uF 16V caps. These all had ESR values of between 0.7 and 1.0 ohms. These are circled in purple. A good cap should be under 0.1 ohms.
After replacing these caps, my TV had no more problems with lock ups.


Edited by CDGraves - 5/19/13 at 10:04pm
post #6029 of 6156
OK, what type/wattage of iron do you use to remove the caps?
post #6030 of 6156
To squirrellydw:
My soldering station is the Tenma model 21-147. It has an adjustable temperature. Maximum temp of 420 C (790 F). I purchased it from MCM electonics, probably 15 years ago. It has been a very good soldering tool and it is still available from the MCM web site. A lot of the professionals buy from MCM.
I also strongly recommend using a solder sucker tool, tin/lead solder, and liquid flux compound. Lead free solder melts at a higher temperature and is therefore harder to work with. These items are also available from MCM electronics.
Other good suppliers I have used include B&D electronics (especially for capacitors in bulk) and Newark electronics (for harder to find stuff).
Consumer electronics from Taiwan and China are notorious for bad capacitors. I always use better capacitors than the ones I remove. Always temp of 105C (never 85C). Long life or low ESR caps if possible.
If you are new to desoldering, you should check out one of the instructional videos on U-Tube.
It is important to do it right. It is easy to damage these multilayer boards with the heat from a soldering iron. Then you really will have a brick.
Edited by CDGraves - 5/19/13 at 10:27pm
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