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Official Westinghouse TX Series ( TX-42F430S, TX-47F430S ) Owner's Thread - Page 203

post #6061 of 6156
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDGraves View Post

To 12voltguys:
" I just measured the mounting holes relative to your picture with my set and the measurements look the same to me. I do believe the stands are interchangeable."

Based on your reply 12voltsguys, I purchased base for a TX-42F430S on ebay.
I am happy to report that it is a perfect fit. My TX-47F430S finally has a stand.
So if anyone wants to know, the base for the TX-42F430S and TX-47F430S are inter-changeable.



Excellent! You've got a stand and I have a working TV for my bedroom.
post #6062 of 6156
To RonAlam:

" im noticing a strange discoloration around the outer are of the LCD. Almost looks like what happens to paper if you wet the edges and let it dry. Has anyone come across this before?"

"it looks lighter, not so much darker, like it has a stain."

Hmmm! You got me with this one.
Without actually seeing it, it is hard to know what it could be.
There are several sheets of light diffusers and polarizers that are placed between the back lights and the LCD glass. I have seen situations where fluid has been spilled on an LCD display and it got in between the various sheets and caused them to stick together. That can cause some strange effects that can look like stains. Otherwise, I dunno.
post #6063 of 6156
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonAlam View Post

@CDgraves, it looks lighter, not so much darker, like it has a stain.

Others have reported their set started acting funny before going out completely. If you still have that original 470uf cap in it, I would just replace it with a quality cap and see if that helps. It's real cheap and you'll probably need it sooner or later anyway. If it were mine, I'd consider it worth the gamble.
post #6064 of 6156
not sure how a fuse can affect the LCD screen though...
post #6065 of 6156
here are some images:


post #6066 of 6156
any tips?
post #6067 of 6156
It's not a fuse. It's a capacitor. Two very different things. A device not getting the power it's designed to get, could act in strange ways until it quits altogether.
post #6068 of 6156
@ RonAlam
I do not know if the pictures you posted do the problem justice, but from here it does not appear to be all that bad.
How noticeable is it when you are actually watching live TV, as opposed to a uniform monochrome screen?
From the look of it, I am back to my original thought that it has to do with the diffuser and/or polarizer sheets behind the screen.
The purpose of the diffusers is to take the light from discreet CCFL light bulbs and turn it into a uniform light source. It appears your light source is not uniform along the edges.
It may be that for some reason two of the sheets have gotten stuck together along the edge.
In order to expose the diffuser and polarizer sheets, you have to completely disassemble the entire TV, including lifting off the delicate glass screen.
The slight improvement that you could achieve does not justify the time involved and the risk to seriously damaging the TV in the process.
It may sound like a cop out, but I would advise you just live with it.
I have been working on this kind of stuff for years. I have learned the hard way that "the enemy of good is better".

See these posts. They sound similar to your problem.
http://www.avforums.com/forums/lcd-led-lcd-tvs/1061134-marks-inside-my-lcd-tv-screen.html
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1200904/bubbles-on-lcd-screen-anyone-have-this-problem
Edited by CDGraves - 8/5/13 at 5:45pm
post #6069 of 6156
Thanks CDGraves, I think you're absolutely right, seeing as how recently took a 20" LCD apart to clean some dirt that got stuck in between the panels. Guess ill make due since the set cost me a whopping $60 :-) Thanks for the incite though, greatly appreciated.
post #6070 of 6156
Hi Folks,

I've been reading about firmware and capacitors, but I'm not if either is the fix for my symptoms.

All issues started after the display was replaced 2 years ago because of vertical dark lines. TV is about 6 years old.

Broadcast reception (antenna over air) mostly good, but some strong signals have sound blips (90% accuracy, Split second blips every couple of seconds) or picture will freeze for a second then go blue for a second then return to normal - repeatedly, but not in any pattern, and only a couple of channels.

HDMI handshake - Understand firmware maybe the fix. Sony bluray-dvd via hdm works fine, then for no apparent reason it doesn't. Auto detect on TV still takes us to hdmi1 when bluray is powered up, then says "No signal". Fix to date has been to unplug both units.

Thanks for any leads or tips you can share.
Edited by brujenn - 9/16/13 at 9:57am
post #6071 of 6156
I did a procedure I call "Take it apart and put it back together" yesterday. There was no improvement.

It's surprising how often that procedure fixes things. I think it's usually because a ground or connector has lost some continuity. I thought since the problem started after the screen was replaced that there might be a loose connector, but no, that doesn't appear to have been the case.
post #6072 of 6156
Hey all, first timer here. I recently got this TV as a hand me down from my friend and it wouldn't turn on yesterday after only maybe 30 minutes of use. I was referred to this forum and hopefully ya'll can help!

I've read up on some things and I believe I have the Stand By problem but i'm not entirely sure. The TV will turn on and flash the logo for a couple seconds, but then go blank, leaving only an amber light in front. There is a green light from the back of the TV, and i've tried unplugging it multiple times. Any ideas?

I know that there is a way to do fix it by uploading firmware, but since Windows XP is virtually non-existent anymore i'm not sure what to do. Is there anyone that can help? Or if I can possibly get my hands on a windows XP computer, what do I do next?
post #6073 of 6156
read this forum...
post #6074 of 6156
I'm new here too, but have found a couple of fixes that seem to solve most issues.

You know about the firmware thing, but I don't see where WinXP has anything to do with it. Just follow this link and down load TX-42F430S - v1.4.0 - editted.zip to a usb drive and follow the procedure as outlined by others:

http://www.mediafire.com/download/w1nnnmzmmrz/TX-42F430S+-+v1.4.0+-+editted.zip

1. Remove Tv power cord.
2. Insert usb in tv port.
3. Plug tv power cord.
4. I did not press the on/off button. The update started with a purple LED and did not blink as Westinghouse instructions says.
5. Wait about 3 and half minutes until the LED turn blue.
6. Remove USB.
7. Press on/off button once to turn off tv. The LED goes to amber.
8. I press the on/off button again for 10 seconds and the tv turned on. Some people recommends for this step to remove/plug power cord.

Just follow those instructions dont do anything extra or funky, and be patient, mine did the same thing it went from Purple LED to Blue LED in about 3-4 Minutes.
I'll just add that the usb port is covered by a piece of black tape, so it may not be immediately obvious.

The other issue is a capacitor the is supposed to be pretty easy to replace:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/851860/official-westinghouse-tx-series-tx-42f430s-tx-47f430s-owners-thread/6000
post #6075 of 6156
The amber light just stays on. Has been in for a couple minutes now...not sure what that means
Edited by sheik08 - 9/21/13 at 8:46pm
post #6076 of 6156
Did you try unzipping the files? Probably wouldn't hurt to clean everything else off the drive first.
post #6077 of 6156
Check out the posts about changing out the defective capacitor that has fixed almost everyones problems like you described. I'd be surprised if it were any other problem...you an try heating it up with a hair dryer gently to be sure that it's the culprit! Dave
post #6078 of 6156
Dave - Are you talking about these problems of mine, or Sheik08? Looks like Sheiks problem is the capacitor, but I'm wondering about mine. My TV works, so I'm reluctant to do anything that might nuke it before I have some input from someone more knowledgeable than I.
Quote:
Originally Posted by brujenn View Post

Hi Folks,

I've been reading about firmware and capacitors, but I'm not if either is the fix for my symptoms.

All issues started after the display was replaced 2 years ago because of vertical dark lines. TV is about 6 years old.

Broadcast reception (antenna over air) mostly good, but some strong signals have sound blips (90% accuracy, Split second blips every couple of seconds) or picture will freeze for a second then go blue for a second then return to normal - repeatedly, but not in any pattern, and only a couple of channels.

HDMI handshake - Understand firmware maybe the fix. Sony bluray-dvd via hdm works fine, then for no apparent reason it doesn't. Auto detect on TV still takes us to hdmi1 when bluray is powered up, then says "No signal". Fix to date has been to unplug both units.

Thanks for any leads or tips you can share.
post #6079 of 6156
Sorry! I was referring to Sheik08's.
post #6080 of 6156
The problem sheik08 is describing sounds like the infamous capacitor C51 problem.
I would suggest just replacing the cap. A cheap and easy fix. Its like getting a free TV.

The problem brujenn describes does not sound like a TV specific problem. It sounds more like a signal/noise problem.
Broadcast digital TV requires a very clean signal. If the signal is weak or there is source of noise, then all sorts of strange things happen.
Picture pixallates, freezes, goes blue, sound pops, etc. Before opening the TV, I would suggest moving the antenna around to see if the problem improves (or worsens). There may be a source of digital noise in the environment. Fluorescent lights, power transformers, personal computers (especially if the metal lid is removed), etc can be sources of noise that can mess up digital antenna TV reception.
post #6081 of 6156
You know, I was wondering if the HDMI and auto search and other weird dropouts could be caused by fluctuating and/or marginal power rails also like the boot up problems. Anybody find any other caps that could be causing those? Dave
post #6082 of 6156

Hi everyone,just joined hopefully im in the right place.i too have westy tx47f430s with the same orange light.after reading the post i thought great maybe i can fix this thing. so in true nube form i started to unsolder the caps.then i realized theirs no values where they go.so if someone could please make a rough drawing with values and placement for the main board i would greatly appreciate .thank you Kevin,jakkranch

post #6083 of 6156
Quote:
Originally Posted by jakkranch View Post
 

Hi everyone,just joined hopefully im in the right place.i too have westy tx47f430s with the same orange light.after reading the post i thought great maybe i can fix this thing. so in true nube form i started to unsolder the caps.then i realized theirs no values where they go.so if someone could please make a rough drawing with values and placement for the main board i would greatly appreciate .thank you Kevin,jakkranch


hello all.did some more checking,only removed 7 of them.if i could get the values of tc40,tc47,tc50,tc85,tc86,tc88,tc89, thank you, jakkranch


Edited by jakkranch - 10/13/13 at 12:55pm
post #6084 of 6156
My set is back together but I found this that I made to help me remember -

post #6085 of 6156

orgwood.thanks for responding,ill check to see if mine are right.jakkranch

post #6086 of 6156
Can anybody give me the Cliff's Notes version on my symptoms? I tried reading through the thread - I see various themes, but not exactly sure which problem exactly matches my symptoms.

My Westy is the 47-inch, in service since Christmas day, 2007. I've had the amber light thing following a power outage, multiple times, but have always been able to recover with a unplug-the-power-cord reboot, tho it's not always successful the 1st time, having to do with the "source" cable box...

This time, the amber light thing happened when my BluRay player was the source. The only reason I know this is after leaving the set unplugged and all inputs disconnected, I came home and hooked everything up and heard the sound track for the DVD I was watching. So, I'm getting audio from the source, but nothing on the display. No menus, no "W" logo, no volume bar (tho I can make the volume go up and down with the remote or the buttons on the side of the TV). While I never see anything displayed on the screen, I do see that the backlight is illuminating.

So, is this the capacitor issue or the motherboard issue or the "flash" the ROM issue - or are all those different solutions to the same problem?? Or is my set dead and I should go right out and get a nice 47-inch Vizio? wink.gif

Any help appreciated.

Scott

EDIT: Just discovered that I can change inputs, albeit blind (nothing on the display). I was able to switch from the DVD player input to the Cable TV input. Also confirmed the power button on the remote will turn the set "off" (make the sound go away) and I can also power back up (and get just sound) with the remote...
Edited by CottyGee - 10/18/13 at 4:04pm
post #6087 of 6156

I completely gapped the "F" !! I guess my head's still in a haze from the excitement

30.gif

post #6088 of 6156
With the back light coming on and still no video, my best guess is that this is not the capacitor issue but probably the power supply itself not giving you the power rail for the scan boards. Try holding the power button on the side of the set down for a longer time - up to 30 seconds repeatedly to see if you can get the W to flash or at least the blue light to come on briefly. I'd check the fuses on that board and the power rails if you can. I remember getting a replacement power supply from a company in Indiana hoping it would "fix" the amber light issue but no luck. That's when I went on the hunt for the bad cap using a hair dryer to heat up certain areas on the power supply board and then finally switching to the main board where I found that single bad cap causing the problem. Dave

After reading your edit, I realize that the set is coming alive, just not the video so the power button pushing is useless...must be on the power supply board since the "computer" seems to be booting up okay to get sound and tests the inputs for signals.
post #6089 of 6156
Thanks for the reply, orgwood. I bought a new TV. Vizio M-Series 50-incher. It's up and running and the Westy is in the box. Maybe somebody can fix it...
post #6090 of 6156
I've been reading through pages and pages. I actually own a "TX-42F450S" which was purchased in March of 2009. It has worked fine until today. When I got home and turned it on, I could hear sound (from the cable box), but no picture. No "W" when booting up. Once the set is done booting from orange/amber it goes to blue, but obviously, just sound.

I've tried unplugging it from mains and holding the power button on the set to discharge. No go.

I do notice that the moment I pull the mains out of the TV, the backlight flickers. If its still booting up, you just get light, but if it has already booted and you pull the power, you can see the input switch in the top right. The backlight/screen is obviously fine, it is just not turning on.

What do you guys think? Is this something I can fix myself?

Could it actually be as simple as ordering and plugging in a T-Con board?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WESTINGHOUSE-35-D016630-V420H1-C07-T-CON-TX-42F450S-/251261592329?pt=US_TV_Boards_Parts_Components&hash=item3a805ba309

Or an inverter board?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1420B1-16A-master-inverter-backlight-for-Westinghouse-TX-42F450S-SANYO-DP42647-/111113695398?pt=US_TV_Boards_Parts_Components&hash=item19dee470a6

Thanks!
Edited by anonuser1 - 11/2/13 at 12:11am
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