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Official Westinghouse TX Series ( TX-42F430S, TX-47F430S ) Owner's Thread - Page 204

post #6091 of 6156
It sounds like it may be an inverter board. Changing them is not hard at all. Some TVs have one , others have a master and a slave. Check out shopjimmy.com, and put your model # in the seach box.. It wil give you a list of available parts.
post #6092 of 6156
Quote:
Originally Posted by rockaway1836 View Post

It sounds like it may be an inverter board. Changing them is not hard at all. Some TVs have one , others have a master and a slave. Check out shopjimmy.com, and put your model # in the seach box.. It wil give you a list of available parts.

It looks like there is a master and slave configuration for the TX-42F450S (BJ's Club Model I believe). I assume you need to replace both as there is no way to determine which it is? Looks like it's about $75 for the pair.

I will open up the TV later today and double check the model numbers of the parts to make sure.

Thank you for the quick reply!
post #6093 of 6156
New to this post. Cousin gave me a TX-42f430s. He said he had this same problem. So when i got it it powered on fine i watched a movie, and turned it off for dinner. Came back turned it on, and oh snap! Black dark screen, blue light. Tried a bunch of different firmwares, including Ekztal's. None of them worked except for SusanII 1.6.3 So could someone tell me whats wrong and how to fix? I would love to get on Ekztals edited 1.40. I have replaced both inverters and Power supply board. Uppon replacing the power board, the tv occasionally will bring the W up, but then right back to a dark black screen and a blue light. This happened rarely. I got it to the point where it started onto the detecting sign and right off it went again after 1.5 seconds.
post #6094 of 6156
If it turns to orange, then your main board is not booting through to the W. Replace that one cap on the main board and your problem most likely will go away...a 30cent cap! See image where I marked it 470uF 16V with 105 C rating...low ESR is best.
post #6095 of 6156

You guys are the bomb!!! I ordered a replacement main board for my TX-42F430S based on what I have read in this forum. When I installed it I had exactly the same problem, (amber light only). I had already tried unsuccessfully to re-flash the software so I took the infamous c-51 cap out of my old board and replaced it with one from Radio Shack (470uf 35 volt). I could not hardly believe my eyes when the thing fired up perfectly. I did not want to believe the board I had purchased was also defective with the exact same problem as my original but it was. If anyone asks me about this problem I will advise them to replace that cap before doing anything else.

Thank You All for your input into this forum.

 

Jim

post #6096 of 6156
I have been working on laptops that have very similar defects because a micro-controller initiates the booting process and checks a lot of stuff before allowing the boot to continue. I believe that small MPU/MCU next to that cap has that responsibility before it "lets" the main controller take over. This is probably a safety feature but as we know, when you don't take care of the caretaker, all bets are off!mad.gif That cap probably provides the power rail to continue or to power that MPU/MCU. I never found a schematic so chasing the problem was a real sense of "whacking at the mole" until one of my contacts through eBay suggested heating up every suspect cap with a hair dryer until you found one that let the booting go forward.

God Bless those that GIVE of their knowledge and experience!!!!!! So guys, pass everything on you know or find out to others and hope for it to come back to you in ways you never expect.
Peace! Dave orgwood@iaxs.net
post #6097 of 6156
Looking for some guidance in a TXF-47F430S. I notice originally that the picture brightness seemed to flicker for lack of a better term. A few weeks later the picture was very dim and the colors looked "solarized" or inverted. At that point I picked up a new TV and put the Westy in the basement for later diagnosis. I fired it up tonight and the dim, solarized picture were gone, but it was still flickering as it had before. I can only imagine the previous problem will return given some time. The problem was verified with HDMI and VGA inputs, so I think I've ruled out a bad source. Any ideas on what it might be? Thanks in advance!

For what it's worth I don't seem to be having any problems with the display turning on or booting, it fires right up.
post #6098 of 6156
flickering could indicate power issues, try replacing the cap so many others have had issues with.
post #6099 of 6156

hay,cottygee would you be willing to part with your set. thanks jakkranch

post #6100 of 6156

I found a model TX-42F430S that some one was throwing out and thought I could save it. Its giving me the amber led and the backlights are working. When I press the power button nothing happens. I thought it was a firmware issue and updated the firmware but nothing happens when I press the power button. I'm suspecting the power supply board but i remember see something about a possible bad capacitor. Would I go about testing the board? capacitors?

post #6101 of 6156
Quote:
Originally Posted by gilmher72034 View Post

I found a model TX-42F430S that some one was throwing out and thought I could save it. Its giving me the amber led and the backlights are working. When I press the power button nothing happens. I thought it was a firmware issue and updated the firmware but nothing happens when I press the power button. I'm suspecting the power supply board but i remember see something about a possible bad capacitor. Would I go about testing the board? capacitors?

Just replace that capacitor that you read about. Instructions are right here in the thread.
post #6102 of 6156
Quote:
Originally Posted by 12voltguys View Post

Just replace that capacitor that you read about. Instructions are right here in the thread.

Use the hair dryer trick to check out if it's that cap! Then you'll know if you want to proceed...I'd still bet it's that cap though!
post #6103 of 6156
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave-W View Post

Looking for some guidance in a TXF-47F430S. I notice originally that the picture brightness seemed to flicker for lack of a better term. A few weeks later the picture was very dim and the colors looked "solarized" or inverted. At that point I picked up a new TV and put the Westy in the basement for later diagnosis. I fired it up tonight and the dim, solarized picture were gone, but it was still flickering as it had before. I can only imagine the previous problem will return given some time. The problem was verified with HDMI and VGA inputs, so I think I've ruled out a bad source. Any ideas on what it might be? Thanks in advance!

For what it's worth I don't seem to be having any problems with the display turning on or booting, it fires right up.

Hello!.. way back...deep within page 61 or so.. I posted a similar "Solarized" problem.. I dubbed it the Matrix. This occurred on my Tower Gaming PC via DVI to HDMI. Once it occurred it followed all my inputs. I pulled the power and disconnected everything but the OTA. I've only seen this on my set a couple time and only when I have the Tower on HDMI 2 and have switched to a different input and come back later to the HDMI 2. My PS3 is on HDMI1 and has never contributed to the Solarized effect. I'm on my second PS3
.
Rockin a built date April 15 2007 and upgraded my firmware to Version 5112_1.4.0 about 5 months ago just cause I was trying to get rid of the "No Input Signal" burn and Source box in the upper right corner. My set shows panel wear and tear, but has yet to blow up.

Does your set do this other problem "Flickering" on Over the Air?
Edited by Woobieizer - 3/30/14 at 5:06pm
post #6104 of 6156
Quote:
Originally Posted by 12voltguys View Post


Just replace that capacitor that you read about. Instructions are right here in the thread.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by orgwood View Post


Use the hair dryer trick to check out if it's that cap! Then you'll know if you want to proceed...I'd still bet it's that cap though!

Thanks guys. Thats exactly what it was. My wife was very happy with the results. 

post #6105 of 6156
Since my last time here, I have:
1. Tried hooking another tv to my existing antenna and had great reception.
2. Tried another antenna on my Westy and had the same problems I described in my ip.

Isn't there a receiver in the westy that can be replaced?
Quote:
Originally Posted by brujenn View Post

Hi Folks,

I've been reading about firmware and capacitors, but I'm not sure if either is the fix for my symptoms.

All issues started after the display was replaced 2 years ago because of vertical dark lines. TV is about 6 years old.

Broadcast reception (antenna over air) mostly good, but some strong signals have sound blips (90% accuracy, Split second blips every couple of seconds) or picture will freeze for a second then go blue for a second then return to normal - repeatedly, but not in any pattern, and only a couple of channels. Reception was great on all channels prior to replacement of the screen.

Thanks for any leads or tips you can share.

The problem brujenn describes does not sound like a TV specific problem. It sounds more like a signal/noise problem.
Broadcast digital TV requires a very clean signal. If the signal is weak or there is source of noise, then all sorts of strange things happen.
Picture pixallates, freezes, goes blue, sound pops, etc. Before opening the TV, I would suggest moving the antenna around to see if the problem improves (or worsens). There may be a source of digital noise in the environment. Fluorescent lights, power transformers, personal computers (especially if the metal lid is removed), etc can be sources of noise that can mess up digital antenna TV reception.
post #6106 of 6156
Quote:
Originally Posted by brujenn View Post

Since my last time here, I have:
1. Tried hooking another tv to my existing antenna and had great reception.
2. Tried another antenna on my Westy and had the same problems I described in my ip.

Isn't there a receiver in the westy that can be replaced?
The problem brujenn describes does not sound like a TV specific problem. It sounds more like a signal/noise problem.
Broadcast digital TV requires a very clean signal. If the signal is weak or there is source of noise, then all sorts of strange things happen.
Picture pixallates, freezes, goes blue, sound pops, etc. Before opening the TV, I would suggest moving the antenna around to see if the problem improves (or worsens). There may be a source of digital noise in the environment. Fluorescent lights, power transformers, personal computers (especially if the metal lid is removed), etc can be sources of noise that can mess up digital antenna TV reception.

Quick question: Have you considered getting an OTA digital converter and bypass the RF input on the Westy? ya know something cheap.

You do know more than me pertaining to opening the TV and seeing what turner board is installed and perhaps if you take a photo of the board's model number you could search for a specific part.
post #6107 of 6156
That's an interesting idea, Woobieizer. I should be able to achieve the same thing, or at least run a test by plugging my antenna to a dvr and connect the dvr via hdmi to the westy and see how it looks, right?
post #6108 of 6156
Quote:
Originally Posted by brujenn View Post

That's an interesting idea, Woobieizer. I should be able to achieve the same thing, or at least run a test by plugging my antenna to a dvr and connect the dvr via hdmi to the westy and see how it looks, right?

I'm not sure if your DVR is the means to an end.. I was under the impression that your OVT tuner on the Westy was out.. hence buying a cheepo converter box. Yet if your DVR has the ability to tune OVT and pipe the ouptut via HDMI or RCA/LR-V.. then GAME ON!
Win Win!!
post #6109 of 6156

Thanks to everyone who has posted on this thread. Please count me in as another person who saved my amber lighted TX-47F430s.

 

One day my six year old tx-47f430s would not turn on and the indicator light remained amber as many people apparently have experienced. After reading through most of the thread, solving this problem has been apparently narrowed down to a firmware upgrade or replacing the 470uf capacitor.

 

 

My process began with

1) trying the firmware upgrade which did not seem to  work for me at first.

2) I then tried to replace the bad 470uf capacitor, but being a noob to soldering, I'm pretty sure I fried my motherboard since after plugging in the "repaired" motherboard I got a constant alternating orange and purple light. 

3) Ordered a new motherboard from shop jimmy for about $200 with high hopes, but after plugging in the motherboard I again got a solid orange light and nothing else.

4) I then replaced the the notorious 470uf capacitor on the the new motherboard I ordered with again no change and a solid orange light.

5) I resoldered the capacitor again (because I'm bad and new at soldering)

6) I then tried to flash the firmware again with a gain no success.

7) I tried the firmware flash desperately one last time and miraculously white light suddenly illuminated the back of my tv and it has been working since Jan 2014.

 

Clearly based on my process it is very difficult to tell which of 1) flashing the firmware 2) replacing the 470uf capacitor 3) replacing the motherboard or 4) a combination of all fixed my problem but I did at least come away with a few useful takeaways:

 

1) similarly to a previous user, my tv displayed NO CHANGES in the orange light when I was trying to flash the firmware. There was no change from orange to blue or purple or any other color when I was flashing my firmware. If this is the case for you, make sure you get a usb stick with its own LED light because a quick flickering of this light immediately after plugging in the power cord was the only evidence that the tv had tried to read the drive (I used a kingston 8gb drive). I unpacked ekztal's modified firmware (safe-kernel.img1 and update_WDE42.tgz) to the root of the drive. On my last attempt at flashing I tried repeatedly holding the power button for 10 seconds and then releasing until my flash drive blinked and then leaving the drive plugged in for hours at a time.

 

2) Regarding troubles I've seen on this thread with replacing the 470uf capacitor, I ran into trouble melting the old (and corroded and dull looking and therefore more difficult to melt) solder with my small low powered 25watt soldering iron and I think this is why I fried my board (by holding the iron on too long and pressing too hard on the board, smushing the metal connection on the board). I did not have to buy a higher powered iron to solve this. As mentioned on some introductory soldering tutorials online, I melted the old solder simply by adding new solder between my iron and the pin. The old solder then quickly melted into the new solder and then the capacitor rocked out easily compared to my arduous first attempt. I would melt the solder on one pin and then pull the capacitor on that side till it slid out in an alternating fashion. I used a solder sucker to suck out the old solder. I cleaned the holes with isopropyl alcohol and I used flux while soldering. I also made sure my tip was very clean and shiny before trying to solder the new capacitor in because I found that a fouled tip or any corrosion leftover made it very difficult to get a good concave solder joint (ding!). The first go I also made the mistake of using too much solder, cutting the pin too long and not heating the metal connection on the board long enough (resulting in a concave looking joint). Sites such as this http://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering/common-problems helped me to get a good joint finally. Overall it turns out not much force or effort was required and the whole process was very delicate and easy once I did it right. 

 

Thanks again to the previous posters who helped me learn a few things as well as save a few bucks!

post #6110 of 6156
$200 for a new mainboard would have sent me over the top. Are you sure it's bad? Maybe someone else can do a repair? I would believe that the cap was the problem all along unless the firmware got screwed up along the way. Then once the board was working a reflash did the trick. Glad it works for you. Dave
post #6111 of 6156

I have a 42 inch Westinghouse TX that is broken.  The right third of the screen is black with red, green and blue vertical lines.  I don't use this tv very often, so I can't justify replacing it, but i hope it can be fixed.

It does this as soon as the screen turns on with no input and with the hdmi input.  Unfortunately, since the input selection is on the right side, I can't chage inputs to verify it is the tv, but since it does this as soon as the screen has any picture, I think I can safely say it is the tv.

I have a decent amount of experience with electronics, just no documentation to figure this one out.

 

Any ideas?

post #6112 of 6156
T-Con board
post #6113 of 6156
Hi Ron, please be a little more descriptive for the rest of us. DaveC
post #6114 of 6156
the response was directed toward gigem2, his T-Con board sounds like it is going bad
post #6115 of 6156
I knew that...I was asking for more info about what the T-con board does as I really don't know. Thanks, Dave
post #6116 of 6156
controls what you see on the LCD. 2 ribbons to control one half the screen. Sounds like you need to replace that board. It also regulates the voltage to the LCD.
post #6117 of 6156
Ron -

I have a somewhat similar issue with a Panny TC-P50VT20. I didn't want to hijack this thread so I sent you a PM hoping you can shed some light on the issue.
Edited by RNaval - 2/15/14 at 6:52pm
post #6118 of 6156
Hey guys, this thread is super useful. Great job!

I have had the 42F430S for a while and experiencing an issue for the past few months. Initially it started with the screen going blank whenever I opened an App like Netflix from my PS3. I could still hear the sound though. I would just plug it off and plug it back again and it will work without any problems. Very occasionally the screen would just go black while watching. Again, the sound never goes off. An the led light in the front is always blue - never turns amber as described in many of the posts here.

For a week or so, regardless of the source, the screen just goes black (actually fades away in like 1-2 seconds) within 1-3 minutes of turning on the TV. Unplugging and plugging it back does bring back the picture, but only for a very brief time. Again the audio works well and the front light is blue.

Also the backlight is clearly on when the screen blacks out.

From reading through the thread this seems to a problem with the inverter board, but I would like to get your opinions as well before I order and try out any replacement boards.

Thanks in advance.
post #6119 of 6156
Are all inputs affected identically? Sound works but picture rapidly fades off? If you see the backlight, I doubt the inverter board is bad. My best guess since I know nothing about how these puppies boot up, would be to try and check out caps using my hair dryer trick and see if you can isolate an area or one cap that causes the picture/video to restore. Let us know. Dave
post #6120 of 6156
I also have a Westinghouse 47" TV (TX-47F430S). Several times a day when going into or coming out of a commercial (I assume this has to do with relative volume changes), the screen goes black. The sound continues to work. I can get it back to normal by unplugging TV and then plugging it back in. This has been going on for around a month. Otherwise working fine. Thoughts ?
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