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Basic Guide to Color Calibration using a CMS (updated and enhanced) - Page 65

post #1921 of 1936
Quote:
Originally Posted by howzz1854 View Post

...snip...
here are the results. i did this last night after wife went to bed. lol.. feel like i am sneaking behind her back.

I think a lot of us are stumbling around in the dark when the wife's either asleep or away from the house.

There's got to be a better way to do this. rolleyes.gif
post #1922 of 1936
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post

I think a lot of us are stumbling around in the dark when the wife's either asleep or away from the house.

There's got to be a better way to do this. rolleyes.gif

lol.. she's just upset that every night when i come home from work, first thing i do after kissing the baby and her is to bust out the meter and dig into the trench that i've now made for myself.

but seriously, i think i am done for now.... time to relax. won't touch it for a while.
post #1923 of 1936
Quote:
Originally Posted by howzz1854 View Post

lol.. she's just upset that every night when i come home from work, first thing i do after kissing the baby and her is to bust out the meter and dig into the trench that i've now made for myself.

but seriously, i think i am done for now.... time to relax. won't touch it for a while.

My best excuse is that it's a lot better than getting into motorcycles. She then says that she's fine with calibration as my hobby. I've must have used that excuse a dozen times and it still works. biggrin.gif
post #1924 of 1936
btw, i am thinking of adding some LED ambient bias lighting to the back of my TV. what color do you guys think they should be.

my current living room consist of three light sources. two next to the tv (one on each side), and one behind the seating position at the corner of the room. each light source consist of CFL bulb rated at 7 watt (roughly 30watt incandescent). all three are Warm White light. and from where i sit, with tv off, i measured an ambient light level of 10 Lux from the seating position.

do you guys think i should go with the same Warm White color for the LED bias lighting, or i should go with a Bright White that is colder in color.

i found some amazon sources that sell those strips by the ft. but just don't know which kit, and what color should get.

http://www.amazon.com/Strip-light-Waterproof-Flexible-Light/dp/B005EHHLD8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392321821&sr=8-1&keywords=led+strip+light

http://www.amazon.com/HitLights-White-Double-Density-Flexible/dp/B00710K0DE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1392321821&sr=8-10&keywords=led+strip+light
post #1925 of 1936
Quote:
Originally Posted by howzz1854 View Post


and funny thing is, the overall black level also went down from .013 cd/m2 to .012 cd/m2, that's the lowest i've measured at this back light setting. i am not sure why cool.gif but hey.. i am not complaining. smile.gif

let me know what you think.

You'd get it a lot lower if your backlight wasn't so high. Don't you find 292cdm2 burning the backsides of your eyes for night viewing?
post #1926 of 1936
Quote:
Originally Posted by xvfx View Post

You'd get it a lot lower if your backlight wasn't so high. Don't you find 292cdm2 burning the backsides of your eyes for night viewing?

in contrary, my wife and i both prefer bright image. in fact i was going to purchase the Panny plasma and wife swayed me otherwise. on top of that, our living room does get REALLY bright during the day, we have full ceiling height glass doors covering half of the family room. but if i were to do it all over again, i would probably get the new Samsung F8500, which has the LED level brightness but all the pros of plasma as well.

anyway, .012 cd/m2 is about the same ball park of a pretty decent plasma, so i am happy. honestly the black blends so well together with the edge of the tv i can't tell where the screen ends and where the border begins, and with micro dimming, i don't see any screen uniformity issues at all. but the overall picture does look SO much better now that all the gray scale and color is calibrated. i kept switching back and forth between the old setting and the new one with micro dimming, i am still at awe. eek.gif

now i just need some help picking the right color of bias light to fit the room.
post #1927 of 1936
What you could do is work with the Eco sensor. Find 120cdm2 for night and have that set for Eco viewing. During the day the TV will detect the bright ambient lighting and use the main backlight setting. As that'll give your current white.
post #1928 of 1936
Quote:
Originally Posted by xvfx View Post

What you could do is work with the Eco sensor. Find 120cdm2 for night and have that set for Eco viewing. During the day the TV will detect the bright ambient lighting and use the main backlight setting. As that'll give your current white.

i am already using that feature. at the day time, it bumps up the backlight to 15. night time is around 12. love it smile.gif
post #1929 of 1936
Anyone done any CMS calibration on the Samsung 3D part?

I noticed that on my UN55D8000 when the 3D feature is ON, it has its own profile. So if you use the same input (hdmi1,hdmi2) with the Movie profile, its separated by 2D and 3D. However, the CMS portion follows the 2D. So any changes made effects from 2D and 3D

I guess my question is do you guys recommend using the Custom from the normal 2D calibration or use the Native/Auto in the 3D mode? My initial calibration with a 3D glasses taped to my i1Pro indicated there is a slight color shift when the 3D glasses are in use and plus over 170%-200% lost on Y.

Another question, which I haven't been able to find about the LCD LED backlit Samsung TVs is... can you use the service menu to do calibration that isn't available in the regular user menu? I have seen posts for older Samsung DLP display, but haven't seen anyone mention anything on the LCD/LED backlit models.
post #1930 of 1936
I was reading the OP, and I realized red on my display when it is displaying a car tail lights yellow comes through starting from the center.

Is that an example of the hue being off for red?
post #1931 of 1936
I'm wondering what "setting" or "function" causes the banding I get on the border of Green and Magenta on colorbars. (See below). This is in a "calibrated" Cinema mode on a Panasonic ST60. If I switch to "Normal" or "Theater", the bands go away. I've tried changing settings, adjusting gains, gamma, etc. on my Cinema mode to find the "trigger" and just can't get them to go.

Thoughts?

post #1932 of 1936
Quote:
Originally Posted by valkenaar View Post

I've tried changing settings, adjusting gains, gamma, etc. on my Cinema mode to find the "trigger" and just can't get them to go.

Thoughts?

Hi, when you reset the cinema settings to default ones, the banding goes away? If yes, then a combination of calibration controls is introducing these problems that are not visible at calibration dE charts.

This is the reason I have add over 150 Color Reproduction Patterns to my Calibration Disk, to help checking the display's controls / various mode settings before calibrating to find their safe working range, detect problems to various setting etc.

Some tweaking of specific controls over some clicks, it's introducing problems because propably are broken and you have to leave them untouched to prevent new problems.

Display Companies are not payng attention to their calibration control systems to keep the production cost low making the calibrating experience more complicated sometimes.

By teaking your controls you can look for smooth color graduations, distortions, discoloration, clipping, banding, posterization, crushed shadow details, raised black levels etc. to find which of them you can touch safely and with what range or which controls to leave them untouched. Sometimes it will require some multiple Saturation points measurements to see if some controls are breaking the linearity of the display to other regions that is not visible by taking simple 6 color gamut measurements.
post #1933 of 1936
This seems to be the case with the ST60 using the Cuts too much will result in discoloration, too much red near black on the black clipping pattern and cleary visible in real material as well. I leave the cuts of the 2pt calibration process alone and just focus on the Gains then move on to 10pt. So many freagin variables for contols and finding their safe zones if you want to call it that. Annoying as hell. For Color it is best to use 75% amplitude and 75% saturation patterns , it tracks the colors more linearly in the lower saturation points, like 50% and 25%, however 100% saturation will be oversaturated as a result of calibrating the color to 75%A 75%S. You will have to do a saturation sweep on your own tv to find this out.
post #1934 of 1936
Should contrast be adjusted after your color calibration?
post #1935 of 1936
No...this could change your calibrated white balancd and gamma tracking
post #1936 of 1936
Quote:
Originally Posted by mytbyte View Post

No...this could change your calibrated white balancd and gamma tracking

If there isn't any clipping in white 16-235, while contrast is at max 100, should I expect some color clipping?

Something I noticed after calibrating color with contrast at 90 was that the amount of visible aliasing decreased, but with a beneficial increase overall clarity. I guess I got the pop I was looking for.

If your curious, this is a 5 yr old Toshiba 46sv670U, not a popular set or brand.
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