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How do I get the LFE channel into my mains? (NO SUB)

post #1 of 28
Thread Starter 
Setup:

Option 1:

Toshiba HD-A1
- Analog 5.1 out
- All Speakers set to large
- Subwoffer set to OFF
- Crossover set at 80Htz *not sure why this setting is even here with Sub chanel set to off

Denon 3805 Receiver
- EXT IN. 5.1
- Pure Direct Mode
- Subwoofer set to no

Option 2:

Toshiba HD-A1
- Analog 5.1 out
- All Speakers set to large
- Subwoffer set to YES
- Crossover set at 80Htz

Denon 3805 Receiver
- EXT IN. 5.1
- Pure Direct Mode
- Subwoofer set to yes
- Crossover set to 40Htz (I think this only used with Digital connections)
- LFE set to LFE + MAINS

Are both options allowing me to ge the LFE channel on my mains, or is it just dropping the .1 channel completly?

When I try option 2 and go to the test tone on the Toshiba HD-A1 player and try to test tone the sub I don't get any sound.
post #2 of 28
I don't know how your HD player works, but I know how universal DVD-A/SACD players with 5.1 analog outs work. THEY DO NOT REROUTE THE LFE TO THE LARGE FRONTS WHEN THE SUBWOOFER IS SET TO NO.

I know how your receiver works. It will NOT bass manage your multichannel analog inputs, so it doesn't matter how you set it up; it's settings are applied to the digital connection, only. The multichannel analog inputs only amplify the signal sent through them by the player.

So, if your HD player is like most univeral players, and it drops the LFE channel when setup with NO SUB and your 3805 doesn't bass manage your multichannel analog inputs, then neither option will work for you.

BTW, even with a digital connection, the LFE+Main setting will NOT get the LFE into your mains. What that setting does is send bass info below your crossover setting to the subwoofer in addition to your LARGE fronts.

My suggestion would be to use a calibration disc that has a pure LFE track on it and try to determine if your HD player will reroute LFE when it's setup as having NO SUB. A pure LFE track on AVIA is the "LOW FREQUENCY SWEEP, LFE" track.

If the player doesn't reroute the LFE channel, you're SOL. Sorry.

Your only option would be to get a new receiver with an HDMI connection.
post #3 of 28
Another option is to just run coax or an optical connection. The A1 along with most multichannel players is horrible at bass management over analog, but it will do a nice job with encoding the high resolution audio formats to DTS. The difference between this and the full resolution audio is very small. While poor bass management is a big problem.

I would use option 1 with a digital connection with your equipment.
post #4 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by umr View Post

Another option is to just run coax or an optical connection. The A1 along with most multichannel players is horrible at bass management over analog, but it will do a nice job with encoding the high resolution audio formats to DTS. The difference between this and the full resolution audio is very small. While poor bass management is a big problem.

I would use option 1 with a digital connection with your equipment.

He won't get TrueHD sound with a digital connection.
post #5 of 28
Thread Starter 
Do we know for Sure if the Toshiba HD-A1 just drops the channel?

I don't have Avia to test right now.
post #6 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by sivadselim View Post

He won't get TrueHD sound with a digital connection.

He will get something exceptionally close in quality and much better than most players will deliver with their analog outputs if you need bass management.
post #7 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

Do we know for Sure if the Toshiba HD-A1 just drops the channel?

I don't have Avia to test right now.

All of my tests with the A1 with analog outputs indicate that it fails to bass manage properly. This is true with most players.
post #8 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by umr View Post

He will get something exceptionally close in quality and much better than most players will deliver with their analog outputs if you need bass management.

All he'll be able to use is DD/DTS. That's all that can be passed via a digital connection and his receiver can't decode anything else, anyway.
post #9 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by sivadselim View Post

All he'll be able to use is DD/DTS. That's all that can be passed via a digital connection and his receiver can't decode anything else, anyway.

I know that, but the difference in quality from full resolution DTS to TrueHD is small.
post #10 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by umr View Post

I know that, but the difference in quality from full resolution DTS to TrueHD is small.

What?

DTS is a lossy format. TrueHD is a non-lossy hirez format. He wants his TrueHD.
post #11 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by sivadselim View Post

What?

DTS is a lossy format. TrueHD is a non-lossy hirez format. He wants his TrueHD.

I know DTS is a lossy format, but most people struggle to hear the difference when the bitrates are high. The A1 will encode the TrueHD stream to a high bitrate DTS which is very good. One can choose to spend money how they like. I own and work on a wide range of theater equipment and would not consider the difference in sound quality from this upgrade to be one that compares with many others in most systems. Unfortunately, it is impossible to say what would be best in this case since I have not heard or measured this system, but I doubt the cost of supporting TrueHD over DTS is the best upgrade.

Most people would be better off if they focused on setting up their existing gear better followed by some type of equipment upgrade. Upgrades I would consider would be better or more subwoofers, more power and/or better speakers. I find that these improvements are much easier to hear than the difference in TrueHD over the reencoded DTS version of the sound track.

One of my favorite client's theaters sounds great with whatever you throw at it. It only gets better with great sources. His is one of the few where you would benefit more from the difference in DTS to TrueHD than other upgrades because his system is essentially perfect in all other respects. In fact he does not have the ability to play TrueHD at this point and is in the process of upgrading his surround decoder to obtain that capability. This system already has sound treatment, three very high quality subwoofers, very high quality full range speakers for all channels and high quality electronics.
post #12 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by umr View Post

I know DTS is a lossy format, but most people struggle to hear the difference when the bitrates are high. The A1 will encode the TrueHD stream to a high bitrate DTS which is very good. One can choose to spend money how they like. I own and work on a wide range of theater equipment and would not consider the difference in sound quality from this upgrade to be one that compares with many others in most systems. Unfortunately, it is impossible to say what would be best in this case since I have not heard or measured this system, but I doubt the cost of supporting TrueHD over DTS is the best upgrade.

Most people would be better off if they focused on setting up their existing gear better followed by some type of equipment upgrade. Upgrades I would consider would be better or more subwoofers, more power and/or better speakers. I find that these improvements are much easier to hear than the difference in TrueHD over the reencoded DTS version of the sound track.

One of my favorite client's theaters sounds great with whatever you throw at it. It only gets better with great sources. His is one of the few where you would benefit more from the difference in DTS to TrueHD than other upgrades because his system is essentially perfect in all other respects. In fact he does not have the ability to play TrueHD at this point and is in the process of upgrading his surround decoder to obtain that capability. This system already has sound treatment, three very high quality subwoofers, very high quality full range speakers for all channels and high quality electronics.

Look, I don't know who you are; never seen you post until very recently. I see you have a lot of posts. But maybe you've been away too long.

SOWK asked a very specific question about using his player's multi-channel analog outputs. Period. I'm sure he knows exactly what he can do with a digital connection. But he was obviously interested in getting his analog outputs working properly. He never asked a thing about his digital connection.
post #13 of 28
know DTS is a lossy format, but most people struggle to hear the difference when the bitrates are high. The A1 will encode the TrueHD stream to a high bitrate DTS which is very good. One can choose to spend money how they like. I own and work on a wide range of theater equipment and would not consider the difference in sound quality from this upgrade to be one that compares with many others in most systems. Unfortunately, it is impossible to say what would be best in this case since I have not heard or measured this system, but I doubt the cost of supporting TrueHD over DTS is the best upgrade.

Most people would be better off if they focused on setting up their existing gear better followed by some type of equipment upgrade. Upgrades I would consider would be better or more subwoofers, more power and/or better speakers. I find that these improvements are much easier to hear than the difference in TrueHD over the reencoded DTS version of the sound track.

One of my favorite client's theaters sounds great with whatever you throw at it. It only gets better with great sources. His is one of the few where you would benefit more from the difference in DTS to TrueHD than other upgrades because his system is essentially perfect in all other respects. In fact he does not have the ability to play TrueHD at this point and is in the process of upgrading his surround decoder to obtain that capability. This system already has sound treatment, three very high quality subwoofers, very high quality full range speakers for all channels and high quality electronics.

__________________
W. Jeff Meier



I know what you are saying when most people can't hear the difference in dts and true HD. However, you are assuming that just because all of your clients have lots of money to spend on thier equiptment and sound proofing acoustics and don't have trained ears to hear the difference in pristine audio, doesn't mean that the people here on this forum have untuned ears for discrete pristine quality sound. I am a classical violinist and I have tuned ears to hear the subtle differences in surround sound effects as well as commpression on audio tracks. I do agree with your comment that the bass management problem is a definite downfall, but only if you can't remedy the problem. Some of the trim levels could be adjusted if the reciever alows this. Some recievers may not alow this when the 5.1 input is selected. Levels may be corrected by trimming and increasing in other areas. But I would think that this would be only a temporary fix, because everytime you would want to watch a regular DD track you would have to turn down the lfe input and or boost the levels that you trimmed. This would really be a pain in the rear, but this also could be a saver for you may blow your sub or at least take down the house with the +10 db increase on the lfe end. A reciever or dvd player firmware update could partially fix the problem or redirect the mains to the fronts. Settings on the reciever like the fronts to large or full range or even biamping them could get the results that you want.
post #14 of 28
Quote:
know DTS is a lossy format, but most people struggle to hear the difference when the bitrates are high. The A1 will encode the TrueHD stream to a high bitrate DTS which is very good. One can choose to spend money how they like. I own and work on a wide range of theater equipment and would not consider the difference in sound quality from this upgrade to be one that compares with many others in most systems. Unfortunately, it is impossible to say what would be best in this case since I have not heard or measured this system, but I doubt the cost of supporting TrueHD over DTS is the best upgrade.

Most people would be better off if they focused on setting up their existing gear better followed by some type of equipment upgrade. Upgrades I would consider would be better or more subwoofers, more power and/or better speakers. I find that these improvements are much easier to hear than the difference in TrueHD over the reencoded DTS version of the sound track.

One of my favorite client's theaters sounds great with whatever you throw at it. It only gets better with great sources. His is one of the few where you would benefit more from the difference in DTS to TrueHD than other upgrades because his system is essentially perfect in all other respects. In fact he does not have the ability to play TrueHD at this point and is in the process of upgrading his surround decoder to obtain that capability. This system already has sound treatment, three very high quality subwoofers, very high quality full range speakers for all channels and high quality electronics.

__________________
W. Jeff Meier

I know what you are saying when most people can't hear the difference in dts and true HD. However, you are assuming that just because all of your clients have lots of money to spend on thier equiptment and sound proofing acoustics and don't have trained ears to hear the difference in pristine audio, doesn't mean that the people here on this forum have untuned ears for discrete pristine quality sound. I am a classical violinist and I have tuned ears to hear the subtle differences in surround sound effects as well as commpression on audio tracks. I do agree with your comment that the bass management problem is a definite downfall, but only if you can't remedy the problem. Some of the trim levels could be adjusted if the reciever alows this. Some recievers may not alow this when the 5.1 input is selected. Levels may be corrected by trimming and increasing in other areas. But I would think that this would be only a temporary fix, because everytime you would want to watch a regular DD track you would have to turn down the lfe input and or boost the levels that you trimmed. This would really be a pain in the rear, but this also could be a saver for you may blow your sub or at least take down the house with the +10 db increase on the lfe end. A reciever or dvd player firmware update could partially fix the problem or redirect the mains to the fronts. Settings on the reciever like the fronts to large or full range or even biamping them could get the results that you want.
post #15 of 28
Oh by the way SOWK I am here in Muskego, Wisconsin. I see you are in Tosa. My wife teaches in the Tosa discrict. I saw your post about flanners audio and video. I used to work there before the move to thier new location. I might be going back to work over the summer to pick up some more hours. Anyhow good luck with you set up. If you have any questions just post them. I have to update my profile I am a new member here and haven't posted pics of my theatre room that I recently finished. I will soon. They are pretty impressive for a do it yourselfer.
post #16 of 28
Thread Starter 
Its a good place to work.

I may have found a solution.

1. Buy an external Sub(s)
2. OR Use this information from this post (not by me)


Q: I use the analog outputs and my configuration is 5.0 as I don't use a sub or my subs get their LF from the mains. The A1 won't route the LFE to the large speakers. Is there a way around this?

A:LFE routing workaround

Well, I think I found a way around this.

This routes the LFE to the L and R fronts for those of us with 5.0 configurations using the analog outputs on the A1.

You need:

RCA y adapter cable one male to two female
RCA y adapter cable one female to two male
RCA y adapter cable one female to two male

2 in-line passive low pass filters 80,90 or 100 hz (100hz preferred, see below) male to female RCA

Split the .1 channel out from the A1 with the male-female y cable and attach both the low pass filters to this. Then use one female-male y cable to couple the .1 output off the filter to the L front, the other off the remaining filter to the R front.

Be sure subwoofer is set to use in the A1 menu and set the other speakers how you like.

The y adapters are 3.99 ea. at RS and low pass filters (Harrision) are available from Crutchfield for 29.99/pair. Total for the fix comes to around 42 dollars not including shipping on the lp filters. Custom car audio shops carry the in-line lowpass filters as well.

Low pass filters: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Z91y1V...1&cc=01&g=82600

You can't do it without the filters as this effectively sums the L+R channels as HT man said. The other benefit to this is it actually gives you test tones off the sub output on the A1 to help with setting the LFE level.

It is possible to route the LFE to all 5 channels but that would require splitting the LFE 5 ways and 5 low pass filters as well as multiple y-cables.


Thanks to RichB for his help on this.

5.0 the way to go.




Success! (Sort of) for LFE routing

Well, I put the 80 hz low pass filters in today. I had them all along; they were hiding in my nightstand drawer. Anyway, my LFE performance is now passable. Tried Hell Freezes Over, Jurassic Park T-Rex scene, as well as Serenity HD-DVD "aboard Serenity" scene. To be brief, shake, rattle, and roll.

I've concluded the LFE channel is around 10db too low, though. I had to turn down all the controls to -12 on the A1 (other than the sub control) and my LFE channel was still measuring around -3db compared to the others through THX optimizer test tones. The LFE sweep through AVIA is +/- 6db from about 75 hz to about 25 hz. This was with the other channels balanced to 0 db, C-weighted at 70db.

I still plan to order the 100 hz low pass filters from Crutchfield I think. I have a notch at about 80 hz which I believe the higher filter will help. Also, I'm hoping that will allow easier balancing of the LFE channel with the others by allowing a little more LFE through. I'll need to try setting the A1 crossover at 100 hz to see what that does as well.

I hope a firmware update will at least increase the relative gain on the LFE channel which should obviously help.


More info on LFE routing fix

Well, I've just about got it. I discovered that setting all speakers to Large actually increases the gain in the LFE channel by about 3db. I now have it balanced to within 1db with the other channels.

My LFE sweep through AVIA is now +/- 6db from 100 to 21 hz.

The 80hz notch is gone.

I listened to the opening scene in Independence Day. Excellent LFE performance.

The A1 hasn't exploded or started smoking yet.

Impressions of the 100hz low pass filter

In short, get this one. For me it is preferrable and my LFE level is now perfectly balanced to within .5db of the other channels with THX optimizer test tones. Independent channel balance is perfectly preserved. LFE sweep is +6db to -2db from 80 hz to 20 hz!


This may become unnecessary (hopefully) if a firmware upgrade eventually allows LFE routing. Until then, enjoy!

Charles






Now question for you all, does this sound like it should work properly? Would any of you do it this way?
post #17 of 28
Thread Starter 
Also to Umr,

Thanks for your input, it is good advice for most users.

But the others are also correct, the users that even know about this site are usually more than the average joe with a higher level of know how for audio video systems. (Depends on what forum area you go into, lol)
I can hear a big difference between full bit-rate DTS and TrueHD.

Here is my system as it is today:

Vandersteen Quatro's mains (-2db at 15Htz)
Vandersteen VCC-5 Refence Center ( -2db at 35Htz)
Vandersteen 2ce Sigs Rears (-2db at 26htz)

Now these readings are what I have at my apt.

The -2db readings are the lowest the speakers go before the main drop in db rating. (AKA unusable)
post #18 of 28
SOWK,

You do have very nice speakers. I have worked with them in the past. However, huge differences would indicate either a problem in your system or level differences. Many of these systems will have level differences based on how they handle dialog normalization.

I would lean toward adding a high quality sub to your system.

Good luck.
post #19 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

Now question for you all, does this sound like it should work properly? Would any of you do it this way?

It's worth a try, I suppose, as "Charles" professes "success". I guess experimentation is the key.

One thing that is unclear to me is the necessity of the low-pass filters in the whole scenario. I would think that the LFE channel of the A1 is already filtered properly.
post #20 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sivadselim View Post

BTW, even with a digital connection, the LFE+Main setting will NOT get the LFE into your mains. What that setting does is send bass info below your crossover setting to the subwoofer in addition to your LARGE fronts.

So even if I send DD or DTS through Digital Coax, I'm still not going to get router LFE to my mains?
post #21 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sivadselim View Post

It's worth a try, I suppose, as "Charles" professes "success". I guess experimentation is the key.

One thing that is unclear to me is the necessity of the low-pass filters in the whole scenario. I would think that the LFE channel of the A1 is already filtered properly.

I found out why the Filters are needed.

With that setup and all the y connectors.

You would daisy chain any info from the left channel all the way back to the right channel, and visa versa.

Creating a large MONO channel!


The Low pass filters stop the frequencies higher then that getting into the chain!

So from the crossover point of the low-pass filter and down, it is mono, above that is still Stereo!
post #22 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

So even if I send DD or DTS through Digital Coax, I'm still not going to get router LFE to my mains?

You will get LFE to your mains if you set your receiver up as having NO SUB (which IS how you'll have it set up, as you have NO SUB).

But the "LFE+Main" setting will only be available if you DO have it setup as having a sub (which you don't) and have set your mains to LARGE. The "LFE+Main" setting doesn't get the LFE into the mains, anyway. It sends bass (not LFE) below your crossover setting, that is already going to the LARGE fronts, to the subwoofer, as well.

Capeche?
post #23 of 28
Thread Starter 
Got it. So only 3 options for me!!!


Analog with Filters, and get True-HD

Or digital, and get DTS, and DD only?

or wait till I have money for a sub!


AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

Stupid things!
post #24 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

Got it. So only 2 options for me!!!


Analog with Filters, and get True-HD

Or digital, and get DTS, and DD only?

Or, as discussed in the other thread, a new 3808 or a subwoofer.
post #25 of 28
Thread Starter 
Would a 3803 really help me without a HDMI 1.3 connector on my player!
post #26 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

Would a 3803 really help me without a HDMI 1.3 connector on my player!

Not sure what you're asking.

"3803"? I thought you said "3808".

Does your player not have an HDMI 1.3 connection?

In all honesty, since I don't use HDMI, I don't know all the ins-and-outs of which HDMI connection does what.
post #27 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sivadselim View Post

Not sure what you're asking.

"3803"? I thought you said "3808".

Does your player not have an HDMI 1.3 connection?

In all honesty, since I don't use HDMI, I don't know all the ins-and-outs of which HDMI connection does what.

sorry, thats what I meant!

3808!
post #28 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

sorry, thats what I meant!

3808!

You don't need a HDMI level 1.3 receiver to solve your problem, in fact HDMI levels above 1.1 offer absolutely no benefit with your Toshiba HD-A1 player, which is HDMI 1.1, as stated in the on-line manual.

The simplest solution to your problem is an HDMI 1.1 receiver that can "read" the multichannel PCM output from your player, and do full audio processing of the multichannel PCM, including bass management with capability to re-route the LFE channel to the mains (by setting main speakers = LARGE, subwoofer = OFF). Such as Denon 2307, 2807, 3806. Recent Yamaha HDMI receivers have also gotten good marks for audio processing of multichannel PCM.

In addition, you need to install the firmware update 2.2 for your player (2.1 would also work but 2.2 includes some additional fixes), if you haven't already. The firmware update adds the capability for the player to decode Dolby TrueHD to multichannel PCM, which is an essential link in the chain described in the previous paragraph.

See this link for on-line manual and updates for your player:
http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/customersupport/

And this AVS sticky thread for a discussion of 5.1 / 7.1 channel PCM audio processing by receivers:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=738511

And this sticky thread for a discussion of how HDMI level 1.3 fails to offer significant benefits over level 1.1 (at least in current or soon-to-be-released products):
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=789994
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