What I have noticed with amplifiers is that every design has
compromises. You may look at something and scratch your head
and ask why? Sometimes a person can do a mod to improve something, often the mod is too complex to execute.
re: loud fans
Good news, people have done fan mods on their proamps;
* replace the fans with low noise fans but often the low noise
comes from reduced fan speed which may yield lower CFM than
the original design - doesn't mean it's a bad thing depending on
how you use the amplifier.
* installation of resistors on the stock fans to reduce the fan
speed, same CFM issues.
re: funny power cables on high powered amplifiers
I have seen this on the QSC RMX4050/5050 and others.
Beefy amplifiers with stupid AC cords and/or recommendations
to operate the amplifier on a low amperage circuit when their
own spec sheets imply more is drawn under some test condition.
Arn't you suppse to trust manufacturers to produce a proper product, perhaps 'plug and play', but then you find out that
something is fishy depending on how you operate the amplifier
ie, if you play music, it's ok, but if you play test tones problems
may manifest, or if you drive low impedance subwoofers with
music, you are at the performance envelope and stuff may
happen; circuit breakers trip prematurely, amplifier thermal
overload in seconds, etc.
When you see these suspicous AC power cords on high powered
amplifiers or proper cords but to be used on a 20A circuit,
you wonder if the amplifier would perform better if the electrical
setup was better.
If the V5001 has any chance to succeed using the 'rms test method' it needs more than 110VAC / 20A circuit. This amplifier
would be nicer if it had dual 110VAC / 20A power cords, perhaps
dual toroid design where each toroid gets it's own electrical service.
Else, you need to operate this on ~220VAC / 20A service, otherwise
expect 2kw rms not 4kw rms [assuming it can do 4kw rms]. If
you pay for 4kw rms and only get 2kw rms, is that a rip off ?
Not necessarily, analyze the amplifier from a dollar per watt point
of view. If the amplifier is low in cost it can be a nice snag even if
it performs less than advertised.
I guess the first thing I would do if I owned a V5001 is to open
it up and analyze the design. Look for simple things like the
transformer, heatsink, and number of power transistors used,
measure rail voltage, get a gut feeling and determine if it's capable
of doing more if you feed it > 110VAC / 20A circuit. If you think
so, modify the power cord to use the 30A plug assuming internal
wiring is not anemic. Just remember the warranty issues when
modding your amplifiers. Is 110VAC / 30A enough? You would have
to test the amplifier to see how it behaves before going higher.
125V / 50A available. /muah
Mod whatever amplifier with the beefy plug, 125VAC, 30A or 50A plug. Beefy wires and plugs
are not the concern, the real issue is the circuit breaker. If you have a dedicated line
installed, the wiring and plug can support up to 50A
, but you don't have to install
a 50A breaker. You can install a 20A breaker, if it trips during normal use, upgrade to 30A breaker.
The heavy duty wires and plugs don't care. You can climb the circuit breaker ladder until you
stop false triggering the breaker ----- or until the amplifier smokes because the design didn't self protect ---