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What I'd do differently next time. - Page 18

post #511 of 790
Dear forum, it's been a long time since my last confession. I have had a difficult and interesting year.

I'd like to revise and extend my last list, as I keep learning stuff that I could have done better.

* In my equipment room, I installed outlets high up on the wall to power the telecom and LAN equipment. The problem was that I didn't install them in the correct location. My cabinets are farther along the wall so the outlets look sort of funny sticking out up there.


* The area where I'm installing the equipment rack has an angled wall (due to my desire to hide a lolly column).



The combination of the angled wall and the wall behind it created a "pocket" that the rack will fit in. I had planned to use a Middle Atlantic Slim 5 rack, but I couldn't stomach the cost for one new. I looked at Craigslist and Ebay and found some used, but I couldn't swing them at the time. I also changed my mind and divided that I wanted to put casters on the bottom and have the ability to move it in and out to access the back. I found a Middle Atlantic ERK series rack on CL cheap. AFTER I got it home, I found how large the two bullets were that I dodged. First, the rack just barely fits through the door to the equipment room (with 1/4" to spare), and the rack Perfectly fits into the "pocket". I'd like to say it was designed into the area, but it was purely accidental.

* The theater area has that same angled wall as the equipment room (that hides the lolly column). That column has caused compromises in the room. The center of the back row is offset from the center of the screen. It will be really tight to add a row of 4 seats in this space. It also causes issues with the installing a walkway to the back row. I'm also wrestling with the step (where, design, etc.).

This all boils down to planning. I had a great plan initially for the framing, electrical, plumbing and the like. I did not have a well refined vision for what the entire space would be. That is causing me issues at this late point.

CJ
post #512 of 790
I can't believe Walmart carries the Middle Atlantic ERK Series 25'' D Stand Alone

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...i_sku=11413995

just seems odd for some reason
post #513 of 790
Quote:
Originally Posted by dododge View Post

In my case the real problem is procrastinating on getting it nailed/screwed into place. With the framing lumber from big-name stores, what is dead straight off the rack can become a twisted nightmare after only 2-3 days of lying around in the house.

No kidding. I'm already running into that problem.
post #514 of 790
I'm sure this has been posted before.... Paint the room dark and FLAT FLAT FLAT - NO GLOSS!
post #515 of 790
Quote:
Originally Posted by saeroner View Post

I'm sure this has been posted before.... Paint the room dark and FLAT FLAT FLAT - NO GLOSS!

I would be wary about this. I painted my ceiling with totally flat paint and I kind of regret it. I looks a bit more dull than I would have liked. I'm not suggesting you get a glossy paint, but I would recommend something higher than flat. I think I used whatever is one step above that on the walls and that looks better.
post #516 of 790
Quote:
Originally Posted by TazmanianD View Post

I would be wary about this. I painted my ceiling with totally flat paint and I kind of regret it. I looks a bit more dull than I would have liked. I'm not suggesting you get a glossy paint, but I would recommend something higher than flat. I think I used whatever is one step above that on the walls and that looks better.

Personally, I watch the screen, not the ceiling. The duller the better.
post #517 of 790
Don't hang the projector.
Don't put up the screen.
Don't install a kegerator.
Don't have comfortable seating....

...before you are done with everything else!
post #518 of 790
I think I would have gone with a 2.35:1 screen instead of a 16:9 and done the vertical masking or CIH masking not the horizontal. My room is 16'5" wide and I put my LCR's behind the screen. The one good thing about my setup is I have enough room for the opened curtains that will cover my screen when my TV's pop up!
post #519 of 790
If one has the opportunity to set up a separate equipment space, do it. In retrospect, I set up a space but it's really tight because I didn't give it much thought. The equipment racks on tracks look like a convenient feature when you need to access the plug-ins.
post #520 of 790
Quote:
Originally Posted by willmo View Post

If one has the opportunity to set up a separate equipment space, do it.

+1... +, + and +! Absolutely! Noisy players, noisy projectors, obnoxious front panel lights... it all becomes a complete non-issue.
post #521 of 790
Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post

+1... +, + and +! Absolutely! Noisy players, noisy projectors, obnoxious front panel lights... it all becomes a complete non-issue.

Yep.

I wanted as clean a look as possible and I hate distracting equipment, especially equipment lights around the image, or even in the same room (especially with a projection set up). I placed all my source equipment and amplifiers in a separate room. I did wonder if this would prove inconvenient in any way but it has not been inconvenient in the least (at least when I have my IR repeater system set up). It all works great via remote control in the projection room and I get the extra space, clean look, lack of extra heat , lights, possible hard drive noises and other distractions.
post #522 of 790
Quote:
Originally Posted by saeroner View Post

I'm sure this has been posted before.... Paint the room dark and FLAT FLAT FLAT - NO GLOSS!

Yep, in fact, I have flat black paint and even *that* is not as good as areas covered in black fabric in the room (like my acoustic panels). I was surprised that flat black actually reflects a little light.

Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post

Yep.

I wanted as clean a look as possible and I hate distracting equipment, especially equipment lights around the image, or even in the same room (especially with a projection set up). I placed all my source equipment and amplifiers in a separate room. I did wonder if this would prove inconvenient in any way but it has not been inconvenient in the least (at least when I have my IR repeater system set up). It all works great via remote control in the projection room and I get the extra space, clean look, lack of extra heat , lights, possible hard drive noises and other distractions.

+10. It cannot be said enough. If you can in any way get the equipment out of the room, you will be so much more immersed in the movie.
post #523 of 790
Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post

Yep, in fact, I have flat black paint and even *that* is not as good as areas covered in black fabric in the room (like my acoustic panels). I was surprised that flat black actually reflects a little light.

Paints have absorbtion specifications. At least, that's what my "colorist" said on the new house. He selected a deep burgundy for the walls and a deep dark, DARK blue for the ceiling. It works pretty well.
post #524 of 790
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnsteph10 View Post

Don't hang the projector.
Don't put up the screen.
Don't install a kegerator.
Don't have comfortable seating....

...before you are done with everything else!

So true. I know a fellow hobbyist that was building a room. After he had it painted he put the screen, seating and pj in. No carpet, acoustics or other finishing touches. That was eight months ago!! Been happy watching movies though- but not earning any WAF points.
post #525 of 790
Thread Starter 
Quote:


Paints have absorbtion specifications. At least, that's what my "colorist" said on the new house.

I'm sorry; but, that's really funny. The part of the visible spectrum a paint absorbs is what determines its color in the first place. Let's all paint our rooms the official Coke red. Other than LED devices, that color cannot be produced by projectors.
post #526 of 790
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Erskine View Post

I'm sorry; but, that's really funny.

It may be funny to you, but it's true. My colorist picked highly absorbtive colors for my HT. We even went over the absorbtion specs together.
post #527 of 790
It's not just about color but also texture, which is why flat is typically preferred over gloss. Of course, that's the strident example. It gets much more nuanced.
post #528 of 790
If I were starting over today I :

Would seal the sill plate area of my walls (up above) with a spray foam, like tiger foam or equivalent

Would have put an ultra-quiet Panasonic exhaust fan in my EQ closet (instead of a big box-store bath fan)

Would have extended my bathroom exhaust fan ductwork to allow another exhaust fan in the pub area to better accomodate a popcorn machine

Would have relocated my "panty area /refridg" to the pub room and used this space for a "grand entry", ie a ticket window setting.

Would have forgone a built-in bookcase media storage wall, and used this "in-wall" area for one of those killer "Danley subwoofer build-in kits" that have started showing up.
post #529 of 790
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post

Would have relocated my "panty area

What kind of theatre do you have?!
post #530 of 790
LOL - How did I miss that ?
Wishful thinking, I guess

:-)
post #531 of 790
Go for or invest in the high-end QUALITY speakers (little by little)!
post #532 of 790
I found this one out just a few days ago: if you're driving lots of screws, buy a cordless 18v impact driver- you just have to use one to believe how great it is. That, combined with the use of star or square insert screws, like the "deckmate" variety you can get at Home Depot, will save you immeasurable time, energy, and pain. If I pretap, can drive a 3" screw, from start to countersunk finish, in about 1 second- no joke! I don't have to push it in, either. I just hold the driver on the screw, and the tool does all the work.

I'd pay $1000 for this thing, if that's what it took. Fortunately, the good ones (never, ever, buy cheap tools) cost less than $200 street price. I got the Makita impact driver/drill combo with a 3rd battery at 10% off from HD, for around $350 out the door.

John
post #533 of 790
+1 for the impact driver and the star- or square-shaped bits. They are all absolutely fantastic. I dread driving a Philips screw with a normal driver now.
post #534 of 790
+1 for the impact driver, though I don't like the square heads.. the screws often have extra coating on them in the inside and make them less than usable.
post #535 of 790
Some of these posts are really amusing from the DYI guys! Some are very informative too. If you do work yourself you are bound to make mistakes that you can learn from. Hopefully they aren't too costly

I'm currently building out a home theater/ family rec-room for my house. Double 5/8" rock, acoustic caulking, staggard studs, resilient channel, acoustic insulation, and double 5/8" sheet rock cut for boxes around the can lights to prevent sound from going up. As a musician with carpentry skills I've built a few recording studios and have learned what not to do.

I would have to say that the best advice I can give is to make sure you consider the heating and return ducts. They act like a sound magnet. If you don't pad the duct work all the extra work and money going into sound proofing goes out the window. My 2 cents...
post #536 of 790
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ksound View Post

I would have to say that the best advice I can give is to make sure you consider the heating and return ducts. They act like a sound magnet. If you don't pad the duct work all the extra work and money going into sound proofing goes out the window. My 2 cents...

Please describe how to "pad the duct work"?
post #537 of 790
Thread Starter 
I started this sticky some while ago because this forum is a beehive of individuals building DIY home theater projects. I thought it would be useful for those who are starting on such projects to discuss the errors, omissions and "oh oops" that have been made by others to avoid making the same mistakes. Hopefully this has helped.

Our firm is a design/build/install organization with the ability to completely turnkey a project. Clearly, our business doesn't fit the profile of a DIY forum (with the exception of the designs we produce which many DIYers have utilized). Because we can turnkey an entire project, we have a view of the total project and can control the entire process...which is why we prefer turnkey engagements (but don't insist on them). Today, I thought I'd add just a few "errors" I've encountered with "disjointed" projects (the designer, builder, installer are different groups) and those where the lack of experience has resulted in some hair pulling.

1. Projector Mounting:
---- throw distances incorrect for projector/screen combination
---- projector mounted outside the range of it's vertical offset resulting in picture distortion
---- projector mounted higher than the top of the image area on the screen (a real problem with masking screens)

2. Seating
---- Radius seating (curved rows) where the seating radius is smaller than the radius of the seating platform.
---- Radius seating where the radius of the seats has the viewers on the ends of the rows looking straight ahead to the opposite side of the screen (most manufacturers will custom make the radii)
---- Front row viewing angle has the viewer looking upward more than 10-12 degrees to the center of the screen (uncomfortable).
---- Second/third rows don't have an unobstructed view of the entire screen area.
---- First row is too close to too large a screen, second row is too far for an immersive experience.
---- Elevated second row platform plopped on the floor as a island in the back of the room.
---- Attempts to put too many seats in the room, making it crowded, expensive, uncomfortable for "general" use and looking like you've tried to put 50lbs of potatoes in a 5lb sack.

3. HVAC
---- Even in Fargo, ND in the middle of the worst winter, you MUST consider the cooling and ventilation requirements of these rooms.

4. Room colors
---- I don't like black "man caves" any more than your wife; but, light colors (tans, off white) and bright colors WILL ruin your picture.

5. Screens
---- Screen too big for the room. Screen widths should never be more than 80% of the room width. Keep the screen at least 3' off the floor (if not more) and don't mount it within inches of the ceiling. Big is not always better.
---- Screen too large for your projector budget. A dim picture is not wanted and will result in low utilization of a room you put a bunch of money into.
---- With all the "arm waving" and "oh, my goodness, it will ruin your sound" I hear about AT screens, the FUD factor will result in the big non-AT screen and then the speakers end up stuffed in the corner of the room. If you want to argue about the "damage" an AT screen will do to your sound, here's news flash ... what an AT screen might, or might not do, won't even begin to compare with the damage the corner stuffing will do.

6. Sound Isolation
---- I've said it many, many times before. You can read all of Ted's goodies, buy all the right stuff, and have little to no sound isolation when you're done. This is really, really anal stuff. 1/2 way is zero results. Get help.
---- The primary object of sound isolation is to keep the room quiet...not to keep adjacent rooms quiet (if my wife isn't in the theater with me, let her eat cake...hope she doesn't read this). Once you've done this proud work, why is all the equipment in the room room?
---- Now that you have this very quiet room and you can watch movies really, really loud, tell me...will you hear the smoke alarms go off in your house? (and, you were wondering if you bought enough bass traps from Ethan).

Nuff for now.
post #538 of 790
Fantastic post Dennis. Thanks!

Andre
post #539 of 790
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Erskine View Post

---- Now that you have this very quiet room and you can watch movies really, really loud, tell me...will you hear the smoke alarms go off in your house? (and, you were wondering if you bought enough bass traps from Ethan).

Nuff for now.

This is a great point and one that isn't made very often. I have an interesting solution for fire alarms in my lighting control system (I need to come back and fill in the product name). We are able to set a trigger within our fire alarm system which can be programmed to turn on and off the lights in my theater. We're not anywhere near ready to test this yet, but it was a criteria of mine from the start to get a visual cue if our smoke alarms in the rest of the house went off.

Another thing to consider... All these isolated rooms which have only one entrance/exit are a little scary too. Of course, it's probably already code, but I recommend that people think about their escape routes...I have an equipment closet in the back of my theater with shelving for the components. Today, I instructed my designer to leave those shelves disconnected from the wall so that in a pinch, if my theater door were not passable, I could push all my equipment over and scramble out the back closet (and outside, because my equipment closet has rear access).
post #540 of 790
Quote:
Originally Posted by jscifres View Post

Another thing to consider... All these isolated rooms which have only one entrance/exit are a little scary too. Of course, it's probably already code, but I recommend that people think about their escape routes...I have an equipment closet in the back of my theater with shelving for the components. Today, I instructed my designer to leave those shelves disconnected from the wall so that in a pinch, if my theater door were not passable, I could push all my equipment over and scramble out the back closet (and outside, because my equipment closet has rear access).

I thought about this. In addition to the main hall entrance door I also have an exterior door. Escape! I also have a 2' wide door that goes into the master suite.
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