What I'd do differently next time. - Page 4

Just wondering what model of Berklines you got.

I was able to try the 088's and the 090's locally, and decided on the 090's based on that.

Comfort is very subjective. I am not trying to challenge your impression. Just wanting to know which model it is for the sake of knowledge.

Best Regards,
Doug

I wish I had put an eyeball spot pointing at the equipment rack, which is in the back of the room. My eyes aren't what they used to be, and sometimes I have to tweak something during a movie.

When I finish (start ) programming my remote I'll be able to tweak from the sofa.

I need a light at the back of the rack, too, but that's in an unfinished room, so it won't be difficult.

Got room for a rack-mounted power monitor with pullout lights? Only 1U....

Yes, actually. Thanks for the tip.

This may sound obvious, but...

When doing my big tasks, I shopped around for best prices. You know, things like lumber and drywall. However, I bought most of my small $$$ supplies at one of the big box stores. I figured they'd be competetive on most items.

Wrong!

For example, I ended up using Sherwin Williams paint because by contractor (who is doing most tasks) had an account there and got a nice discount. While there picking up paint, I noticed that the retail price for name-brand "Blue" tape was $1 less per roll than the big box store. A $15 drop cloth at the big box store was on sale for $5. I bought a refurb airless sprayer from a retailer on eBay for what I though was a great price. After including shipping on the eBay unit, Sherwin Williams had a new one for just $10 more after rebate. Same for spray hoods, jump suits, rubber gloves. The list goes on...

Since hunting around on other items such as electrical boxes, switches/recepticles, nails for my nailers, etc. I see that in reality, the big box stores are convenient, but they are rarely the cheapest way to go. That wasn't always the case. Ten years ago they must have been trying really hard to get business because they always had the best prices (plus convenience). Those days are gone.

Scott

Rather than twinned theater seats, I'd get separates.

"T-U" ?

T(i)ts up=bankrupt=out of business, or it can also mean dead

I am putting the finishing touches on my DIY basement / Home Theater started 2.11.07 and still not done. I remember my wife saying ( this better not take all summer ! ), but now that it is up and running she loves it.

To all first timers like myself - Do research, research and then figure out screen size and location. During framing I moved the sceen/sitting location no fewer than 3 times and ended up putting where I had it the first time.

If you have never finished dry-wall before, pay a pro, you will get a better finish.

KISS - Keep it simple stupid

Plane for 7.1 if you can and run conduit, I wish I had , all I ran to my PJ is 1 HDMI, power and 1 Cat5e ( for my Remote system ). If I have any trouble with my HDMI I'm screwed. This is all ready my 2nd hdmi cable, the drywallers cut the first one with a roto-zip. They had to take down 3 sheets of dry-wall so I could put in the new cable they just bought for me.

Dispite what stories you may read or hear its all worth it in the end.

My total for materials, labor ( drywall hung/finished w/textured ceiling), Audio/Visual Equipment and carpet is at ( $21,200 ). The best thing is that half that cost will come with me if I ever move.

Good Luck...

A mistake to avoid: Remember to fill underneath the riser platform with fiberglass insulation so I m not spending money on heating / air conditioning that 'dead' space.

Not the reason to stuff it with insulation though. I suppose it could be considered a slight by product of what is in essence something done to aid in acoustic treatment.

I **really** wish I would have thought about noise thru the ducts. After drywall went up recently, I was standing right below the only ceiling duct in my basement room...and heard my 3 year old yelling in her room 2 floors away as clear as if she was standing next to me.

That doesn't bother me as much as what sound might escape when the system is cranked! I've read some threads now on it and may stuff some Linacoustic or something in there...

I did double drywall, GG and Integrity Gasket so am a bit bummed I didn't do the best thing possible with this big "hole".

Is there a point outside your room you could get to and make part of the run the plastic wire reinforced tubing stuff (does that make sense -- it's all through my attic). I originally ran all metal from my fan to the vents in my room for exhausting heat and you could really hear the fan (panasonic whisper fan) and I took a 1-2' section and replaced it with the plastic ducting and it's whisper quiet now (no metal to transfer vibration would be my guess).

Don't know your house so don't know how possible (nor am I an HVAC expert) but thought I'd offer.

Mike

I didn't put in accent lights for my screen. As I look at some other theatres, screen accent lights are like the cherry on the sundae.

Here's another from me - when framing, I assumed that the metal I-beams supporting my house were square to the basement walls. as it turns out, they're not even close. (Measure twice, build your wall once!)

If I did it over again I would build a false screen wall to hide the front speakers. When I started I thought that this being my first room, I needed to be flexible with speaker location, but now that I know where things go, the clean look of the false front wall is really nice. (Maybe a future mod?)

My house isn't even finished being built yet, but I already know what I'll do next time. I'll make sure there isn't a steel I-beam holding up floor joists running through my theater.

I should have skipped using self-adhesive tape, mesh or otherwise. It bubbles up and furs up when sanded.

Regular old paper tape and all-purpose joint compound works like a champ. I was scared to use it, figuring it would be difficult to imbed in the mud. I was wrong about that. I ended up ripping off most of the self adhesive stuff and using regular tape.

Throughout my project I've learned... If the pros do something a particular way, there must be a good reason why.

Doug

lol i just now had time to check this thread again

here they are...



the cool thing I like are the motorized foot rest....

not sure which model they are without going through my old emails ( i bought them from the guy who sells them on here to the membersm naybe his name was Roman??) ... I will try to look later for the model #

but I am building a new HT down stairs in the basement, and will just stick these in the back on a riser.

like i said, they are just not the best thing to sit in after 3-4 hours of watching tv...

Don't waste any time looking for the model number.

I don't think they are the 090's.

I was just a little curious, because the only complaint I have ever had about them is that it is too easy to go to sleep during the movie.

Best of Luck with everything in your new theater,
Doug

I made a few mistakes on my first theater.

I didn't have enough seats. I had 7 which is nice when you have another family over but you can't exaclty host a superbowl party.

I should have kept all of the equipment out of the room. It created a lot of heat and a little noise. The heat issue was obvious right away. I didn't notice anything wrong noise wise for about a month. Then the fan on my projector started to bug me quite a bit.

I had overpowered the HVAC in the front row. The front row would freeze while the back row was fine.

Same exact mistakes I've made in my Home Theater!

Next time I'll mount my doors flush with the theater walls for acoustic reason, redoing them sucked. Second I will add on the equipment room, and rear columns for 7.1 from the get go. Last but not least I wil spend more time on the trim.

I, like other mentioned, was worried about the screen size. So I mounted it around 13' back.. I wish I had taken it to the back and mounted it on a shelf which would have been 19'. It would have been a lot easier to mount and wire plus I could have made a bigger screen.

Im putting in 7 seats but have plans on a lot of bean bags, seems like a cheap fix

During the research phase (i.e., pre-design), start a document where you cut/paste the various comments and information and links from posts where you got that information. The more you read/research, the more there is to learn, and you will never retain it all. Instead, you will have vague memories of information and then spend an inordinate amount of time trying to find it again when you begin the design phase.

I wish I had based my lighting on zones from screen wall to the back of the theater, that way I could have some dim lights at the back, but the screen would still be dark. Not for movie watching, but for sporting events and the like, where you're likely to be moving around more. For instance, I'd have front pair of cans and sconces on one dimmer, and the back cans and sconces on another dimmer. Could have created a cool fade out from front to back effect too, for starting a movie.

Fortunately I avoided lots of problems by reading the great advice here in the dedicated forum. Thanks guys!

Chip

I tried the beanbag trick. Kids won't mind but adults will.

I actually decided to leave one of my nine seats out for now, put a table there for the remote instead.

This is hilarious....the problem with the belt clip....works when I started in MArch and wore jeans....but as the weather got warmer, I wear shorts now, and the clip would pull my pants down.