Hi Fatmonk
Can I please ask what firmware version you obtained?
I am having problems connecting a PS3 to my UK HD80.
I could not see reference to the firmware version on my normal HD80 menu (which I had read meant its an old version) so managed to find how to access the service menu (power, left, left, up) and it says my firmware is C.05T3 dated 5th Sept 2007.
I eventually found a link on this forum to the Optoma webpage where you can download firmware http://www.themescene.tv/projectorde...Cinema&PC=HD80
It refers to HD80_C05_EMEA_1012_Checksum_F9E0 but I am not sure if its the latest!
Cheers
Yoghurt
Can I please ask what firmware version you obtained?
I am having problems connecting a PS3 to my UK HD80.
I could not see reference to the firmware version on my normal HD80 menu (which I had read meant its an old version) so managed to find how to access the service menu (power, left, left, up) and it says my firmware is C.05T3 dated 5th Sept 2007.
I eventually found a link on this forum to the Optoma webpage where you can download firmware http://www.themescene.tv/projectorde...Cinema&PC=HD80
It refers to HD80_C05_EMEA_1012_Checksum_F9E0 but I am not sure if its the latest!
Cheers
Yoghurt
Quote:
Originally Posted by fatmonk 
Thanks to jenielsen I now have a copy of the firmware and I think have gathered the required cables (I don't have the serial cable that Optoma would have supplied as I bought the projector ex-demo - can anyone confirm the pin-out ? Is is standard 9pin pin-to-pin or null modem?).
In the meantime I've been discussing with Optoma support.
Althouhg the firmware used to be downloadable from the Optoma website, I am now being told that they are not authorised to send out 'software'!!! Now that's helpful.
I also feel I am being spun a bit of a line as I have investigated my solarising problem a bit further.
I created myself a test pattern with three vertical bars filling the screen. The first bar was a gradient red from 0 at the top to 255 at the bottom. The second bar the same with green, the third with blue.
When the projector colour temperature was set to 'warm' the bottom of the red bar was a block of full saturation red for about 5-10% of the image, then a step down to the normal gradient. The green and blue were still smooth gradients.
When the colour temp was set to 'cold' all gradients were still smooth.
So I played about with the user saturation levels and the only one that produced the block of colour was the red.
It would appear that instead of lifting all of the reds, the colour temp process in the projector is just icreasing the top end to saturation. If we take the normal gradient as being 1,2...252,253,254,255 then it looks like red+ results in 1,2...252,253,255,255. Red+2 gives 1,2...252,255,255,255 and Red+3 gives 1,2...255,255,255,255 - if you get what I mean.
Now, Optoma CS are telling me that this could be dust on the colour wheel sensor... but I can't understand that.
My understanding of DLP (which is probably quite lacking) is that the dlp chip controls the luminance by directing more or less light to the screen by the angle that the mirror(s) on the chip sits at. The colour is determined by which colour wheel segment is in the light path at the time. By combining different saturations of different colours we produce the spectrum.
As my colours are being produced in the correct places with no 'bleeding' (for want of a better word) or shift of the colour into other colour areas this would indicate to me that the colour wheel synchronisation is correct.
I do intend to give my unit a good internal clean anyway, but I'm not convinced that a clean is going to solve what looks to me like a processing issue. (I'm hoping the firmware might solve that if I've got the right cable).
Or am I missing something? The Optoma guy isn't really explaining how the colour wheel synch could cause what I am seeing, and my (admitedly quite sketchy) understanding of system says that I am being fobbed off. Can anyone else explain how dust on the colour wheel sensor could cause solarisation in the reds only and only when colour temperature is set to warm?
Ta,
FM

Thanks to jenielsen I now have a copy of the firmware and I think have gathered the required cables (I don't have the serial cable that Optoma would have supplied as I bought the projector ex-demo - can anyone confirm the pin-out ? Is is standard 9pin pin-to-pin or null modem?).
In the meantime I've been discussing with Optoma support.
Althouhg the firmware used to be downloadable from the Optoma website, I am now being told that they are not authorised to send out 'software'!!! Now that's helpful.
I also feel I am being spun a bit of a line as I have investigated my solarising problem a bit further.
I created myself a test pattern with three vertical bars filling the screen. The first bar was a gradient red from 0 at the top to 255 at the bottom. The second bar the same with green, the third with blue.
When the projector colour temperature was set to 'warm' the bottom of the red bar was a block of full saturation red for about 5-10% of the image, then a step down to the normal gradient. The green and blue were still smooth gradients.
When the colour temp was set to 'cold' all gradients were still smooth.
So I played about with the user saturation levels and the only one that produced the block of colour was the red.
It would appear that instead of lifting all of the reds, the colour temp process in the projector is just icreasing the top end to saturation. If we take the normal gradient as being 1,2...252,253,254,255 then it looks like red+ results in 1,2...252,253,255,255. Red+2 gives 1,2...252,255,255,255 and Red+3 gives 1,2...255,255,255,255 - if you get what I mean.
Now, Optoma CS are telling me that this could be dust on the colour wheel sensor... but I can't understand that.
My understanding of DLP (which is probably quite lacking) is that the dlp chip controls the luminance by directing more or less light to the screen by the angle that the mirror(s) on the chip sits at. The colour is determined by which colour wheel segment is in the light path at the time. By combining different saturations of different colours we produce the spectrum.
As my colours are being produced in the correct places with no 'bleeding' (for want of a better word) or shift of the colour into other colour areas this would indicate to me that the colour wheel synchronisation is correct.
I do intend to give my unit a good internal clean anyway, but I'm not convinced that a clean is going to solve what looks to me like a processing issue. (I'm hoping the firmware might solve that if I've got the right cable).
Or am I missing something? The Optoma guy isn't really explaining how the colour wheel synch could cause what I am seeing, and my (admitedly quite sketchy) understanding of system says that I am being fobbed off. Can anyone else explain how dust on the colour wheel sensor could cause solarisation in the reds only and only when colour temperature is set to warm?
Ta,
FM














