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*Official* Optoma HD80 thread - Page 118

post #3511 of 3520
Hi Fatmonk

Can I please ask what firmware version you obtained?

I am having problems connecting a PS3 to my UK HD80.

I could not see reference to the firmware version on my normal HD80 menu (which I had read meant its an old version) so managed to find how to access the service menu (power, left, left, up) and it says my firmware is C.05T3 dated 5th Sept 2007.

I eventually found a link on this forum to the Optoma webpage where you can download firmware http://www.themescene.tv/projectorde...Cinema&PC=HD80

It refers to HD80_C05_EMEA_1012_Checksum_F9E0 but I am not sure if its the latest!
Cheers

Yoghurt


Quote:
Originally Posted by fatmonk View Post

Thanks to jenielsen I now have a copy of the firmware and I think have gathered the required cables (I don't have the serial cable that Optoma would have supplied as I bought the projector ex-demo - can anyone confirm the pin-out ? Is is standard 9pin pin-to-pin or null modem?).

In the meantime I've been discussing with Optoma support.

Althouhg the firmware used to be downloadable from the Optoma website, I am now being told that they are not authorised to send out 'software'!!! Now that's helpful.

I also feel I am being spun a bit of a line as I have investigated my solarising problem a bit further.

I created myself a test pattern with three vertical bars filling the screen. The first bar was a gradient red from 0 at the top to 255 at the bottom. The second bar the same with green, the third with blue.

When the projector colour temperature was set to 'warm' the bottom of the red bar was a block of full saturation red for about 5-10% of the image, then a step down to the normal gradient. The green and blue were still smooth gradients.

When the colour temp was set to 'cold' all gradients were still smooth.

So I played about with the user saturation levels and the only one that produced the block of colour was the red.

It would appear that instead of lifting all of the reds, the colour temp process in the projector is just icreasing the top end to saturation. If we take the normal gradient as being 1,2...252,253,254,255 then it looks like red+ results in 1,2...252,253,255,255. Red+2 gives 1,2...252,255,255,255 and Red+3 gives 1,2...255,255,255,255 - if you get what I mean.

Now, Optoma CS are telling me that this could be dust on the colour wheel sensor... but I can't understand that.

My understanding of DLP (which is probably quite lacking) is that the dlp chip controls the luminance by directing more or less light to the screen by the angle that the mirror(s) on the chip sits at. The colour is determined by which colour wheel segment is in the light path at the time. By combining different saturations of different colours we produce the spectrum.

As my colours are being produced in the correct places with no 'bleeding' (for want of a better word) or shift of the colour into other colour areas this would indicate to me that the colour wheel synchronisation is correct.

I do intend to give my unit a good internal clean anyway, but I'm not convinced that a clean is going to solve what looks to me like a processing issue. (I'm hoping the firmware might solve that if I've got the right cable).

Or am I missing something? The Optoma guy isn't really explaining how the colour wheel synch could cause what I am seeing, and my (admitedly quite sketchy) understanding of system says that I am being fobbed off. Can anyone else explain how dust on the colour wheel sensor could cause solarisation in the reds only and only when colour temperature is set to warm?

Ta,

FM
post #3512 of 3520
Hi,

I just received my HD80 back from servicing and I have it ceiling mounted and I'm trying to flip the picture but the menu will only access setup. all the buttons work fine within setup but if I try and arrow up or down at the root of the menu it is stuck on setup.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

TG
post #3513 of 3520
Make sure a source is connected and active or it won't let you into all the setup menus.
post #3514 of 3520
I was having the problem with the hd80 cutting off after only a few minutes even with a brand new bulb. Tried the factory reset, that did not work. So I took the thing completely apart, cleaned out the fans (which had a lot of dust on them, especially the little one that blows air onto the bulb). Cleaned off all the surfaces that light passes through inside and out with windex. I also noticed that the bulb I was replacing did not have a piece of glass on the front, so I took the glass off the new bulb, thinking that was just one more thing to get hot as hades and cause an overheat.

After doing all this, it works fine again. I have a theory that there are sensors throughout the machine that determine whether sufficient light is coming from the bulb, and if there is not enough, it tells the bulb to send more light. If these surfaces are covered with dust then it will obviously be harder for light to get through, and the bulb is just going to get hotter and hotter and hotter until it trips trying to send light through dust. The machine's lamp sensor goes off because it assumes the bulb is no longer capable of sending enough light. Would seem to me a new bulb does not need to burn as hot to send the correct amount of light, thus a new bulb will solve the problem for some, whereas others with a really dusty machine don't even get anywhere with a new bulb.

I would try all this before replacing a bulb. I am on my third bulb and when I replaced the first two I did not think it made sense that my picture was perfect until the machine cut off.

If any of this theory sounds like garbage, feel free to tell me. I'm not a scientist but this is the conclusion and solution I came to after getting quite frustrated with this projector.
post #3515 of 3520
My projector cut off after tw houres last night so I guess the solution above did not completely solve the overheat/cutoff problem.
post #3516 of 3520
Did you clean the intake filter that sits just below the color wheel? The air chamber around the color wheel is sealed to the outside other than through this filter, and the small fan that drives directly into the lamp pulls from this area, IE dirty filter, no lamp air, and shutdown . . . I had this problem last month, and a good cleaning *without* noting the filter didn't help. I cleaned the filter (and nothing else) after that and have been working flawlessly for about a month now . . . .

I think, too, that if the filter is dirty, the other likely air draw path is the main fan outlet (after the lamp) which is already hot . . . which will also cause the color wheel sensors to overheat, and give color artifacts as you describe (ask me how I know . . .). That also stabilized instantly after filter cleaning . . .

- Tim
post #3517 of 3520
Well my HD80 just started with the red lamp light after being on for only a minute or two. This was repeatable about a dozen times. I then switched the lamp to brite mode and it stayed on for a half hour until I switched it back to normal and it shut down immediately with the red lamp light again. The lamp has about 1100 hrs on it.

I removed the lamp assembly and there was very little dust. I attempted to open the whole projector by removing all the screws, but the housing would still not come off easily and I didn't want to risk breaking it. Does anyone have instructions for opening it up so I can check the dust filter before adding a new bulb.

Thanks!
post #3518 of 3520
i have an HD-80 that has just started to experience scaling problems. We sent in for out of warranty service and the estimate with labor and shipping comes to roughly $650. Any advice on whether its a good idea to pay for the service or bite the bullet and get a brand new one for about 600 or so more? also any reports of the scaler board being an unreliable repair type? in other words, will it have additional problems that anyone else has heard of after a scaler board is replaced?
post #3519 of 3520
Hi All

Please could someome forward me the latest American firmware for the HD80.

Thanks
post #3520 of 3520
Quote:
Originally Posted by williamsinspain View Post

Hi All

Please could someome forward me the latest American firmware for the HD80.

Thanks

WilliamsInSpain,
I sent you the file via the email address you gave to me in your request on PM. Hope that works for you. Please let me know that you have received it.
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