2007 Samsung HL-Txx76 Owner's Thread - Page 56

allbiz more details please? contact number for the guy?

He was just some repairman for circuit city down here in miami. The guy hadnt even heard of software like avia and dve to calibrate sets, so im sure there must be a bunch of guys that know how to fix this problem. BTW, the code for the hidden menu is: mute 1 8 2 power

My HLT5676 has started resetting all settings to factory default while the set is on (instant dynamic mode, yikes). Instant change, no power interrupt or anything. I'll change everything back (movie mode, 0 sharpness, etc) and in ~15minutes it goes right back to default. Any ideas? Thanks

Sounds like you bought a floor demo that's in shop mode. After 15 minutes it resets to torch mode so customer settings in the store don't stick.

Go into the Plug&Play menu and set it to Home Mode.

That solved the problem -- thanks. Dunno how it got into shop mode; it isn't a floor demo. I suspect curious children's fingers and coincidence. BTW, I've had my set since June '07 and still love the picture.

Does anyone know if Samsung ever released a software upgrade for this tv? I see there is an option in the menu Owned this for a year now and its doing great (knock on wood)

Yes, read post #1626.

Thanks so much! I'll update it tomorrow.

So I updated the firmware to the latest. One thing I noticed (maybe I just missed it before) is that using MOVIE mode in the picture settings put the Gamma (in the sub-menu Detailed Settings under Picture settings) to -3. Now I can't remember if my old settings had the gamma at -3 or not.

What is the recommended approach? I want to keep it on Movie Mode, but don' know if Gamma should be at -3 or at 0. I use the following settings:

Movie
Contrast:27
Brightness:51
Sharpness:0
Color:65
Tint: G-55 R-45
Color Tone:Normal
Everything else OFF

6176S I have in the lower left corner a orange color mark tthat shows up on dark sceens it is probably 1 to 2 inch tall and 4 5 inch long, it is not even in size, what could it be? thanks and what would fix it?

P.S I have also tried pulling on the screen and utting presure in diffrent spots, it still does not help with bowing.

When I what 4.3 programs I have black boxes on the side of my tv, the left side is pretty straight up and down, maybe slighty tilted in at the top may be. The right side is about a 1/4 inch further in at teh top. now my tilt on teh right side seems to follow that the the straight lines all the way to teh right bend upward more as they go up, it seems to me that if I can get the top of teh image to tilt out ( staright up and down like the left side ) I should be good to go. I heard this was possiable any ideas? thanks

I found a person locally who is asking $650 for this tv. It is a year old and in excellent condition. Is this a good deal?

Correction: He was originally asking for $850, but I talked him down to $650. He is moving into a smaller apartment and the tv will not fit in the new place.

I would say so,I love my tv, it does have a few problems with geometery but if you don't look for it you probably will not see it.

I currrently have a 52 inch RCA (the older 1080i), so I am considering buying this one for the 1080p at least. I was just curious if it was a good deal or not.
Thanks!

Alright, I went into the service menu looking for the R-offset, R-gain, etc.....

Only to NOT be able to find it. I do have a C-5 Colorimeter and my friends set needs to have the R-gain adjusted.

I have found every other menu but not these!!! I used the guide in this forum, but can't find the FBE2 or the White Balance submenus! Arrgh!

Anyone have any suggestions?

Does this tv do 24P?

Yes it does, at least with my Dish Network HD DVR. Pressing info shows 1920x1080 @24hz while the movie is playing.

Wehn ever I press info I will get 1920 BY 1080 60HZ?


Also ther ehas to be a way to straighten this tv out, if I pull up or push down on the frame it does not correct my problem, my tv if there are black bars on teh side tilts in at teh top, you can see it tilt in as you go up from the bottom, the bow to my tv follows this the left side is not as bad as the right, it almost seems as if teh top of the picture needs to move outward and straightn everything up. Any ideas? thanks

You have to select a 1080p movie to get the 24hz, progressive version. Dish has one each month on channel 501.

All bluray movies are 1080 P aren't they? I have tried it with them and still nothing?

Samsungs don't show the p, only the i is shown when you press info so you ARE getting 1080p if you don't see an i. Your Bluray disk and player must be 24hz capable too, and you must use an HDMI cable. The TV definitely does do 1080p 24 so the issue is your player or disk.

I am useing HDMI and the player is the new Panny DMP BD 55

This set uses a chipset generated pattern to be used with a colorimeter. A tristimulus device is shyed away from by some, but if you are careful, you can always retrace your steps.
The set can be put into rgbcy and test patterns from the chip driver itself, bypassing all processing.
Then later you can set up the equiv of gains, cuts, wb, gamma for each resolution.
The Samsung service manual has the basics, or a good ISF guy can do the job.

I have a diffrent problem with mine that the smiling...

Mine as a shift from bottom to top so when you watch letterbox items and programs that just fit the screen there is about a 1 inch black bar at the bottom of the TV...any way to adjust this problem..

Thanks for the response. The problem isn't the correct equipment or finding the patterns in the menu, the issue is not finding the RGB-gains and offsets in the submenus. I went through ALL of the submenus and can't seem to find the "whitebalance" submenu.

Thanks for the response!

Dave

Here is in a nutshell what I was trying to explain. I'm better at showing than typing, so I'll probably not tell you everything you need to know . Just keep asking. I'll check here more often, don't know why I didn't see your reply in my email. Something to look into later.

Anyway in the SM, you get into a mode which runs the DMD chip, and its driver chip. It has it's own test patterns built in, so it if AFTER any TV or video processing from the TV. You get it to display full screens of RGBCYW and record the x,y and luminace cdm2 readings on your colorimeter.
You record all these readings, then punch in these readings. Rinse, repeat. (Usually just to check for typo error).
Now When you display the colors with the built in test patterns, your colorimeter should be perfect.
You permanently store these corrections and go from there. Later if a color wheel is replaced, bulb, etc, you would do the same thing, and your "in TV circuit" settings for each resolution, 'should' be ok.
Now you get to the array of independent settings which will be dependent on (mostly) the resolution mode and/or input, i.e. 1080, 720, 480, s-video, component etc. There is also the 'spread' functions which will overwrite this info to other areas you may not be aware of.
I don't have time to begin to look all this up at the moment, but there are many dependencies, as do s-video first, as component is an offset of that etc. (An example, I don't have notes here).
I have a very well worn lamp in this set as I use it for a PC display plus TV, so it is noticeably dimmer than new.
I will soon, maybe over new year's do the above light engine calibration with the old lamp. (I've done it on and off to tweak in for new input toy or HDPC box etc). Now I will tweak to the old bulb, put in the new bulb, and I expect considerable change in WB and Luminace levels. Will print out the errors.
I will then do the engine tweak again, with a blastingly bright new lamp, and I should have correct settings again for all my inputs.
Later after as lamp burns in, I will expect change, then I will rinse, repeat.
Playing in the SM is thermonuclear destruction if you are not careful.
I picked a DLP just because of its renew ability, but am dismayed at the extreme levels of deposits from cooking and likely the wood stove too, inside the light engine. My scanner on another floor shows the cooking fumes under the glass. I can not imagine a dlp in a smoker's environment or a bar. I may disassemble the engine to clean the internal optics if I feel like punishing myself some snowy night. (And maybe find out what goes 'bang' pop, tick). I thought pops and ticks went out with vinyl.

Thanks man! That is quite the response. I guess I am not clear on my question. I can get the internal chips patterns up no problem. I can calibrate my cholorimeter no problem.

I can't find the R-gain, G-gain, B-gain, R-offset, G-offset and B-offset in the submenus. I can't seem to find the "whitebalance" submenu that these are listed under. I went through all of the submenus and can't find where to adjust the RGB levels using the cholorimeter.

red is way high on this set and would like to get it corrected.

Thanks for your help and patience!

Dave

I'm having an issue with my 5076. I tried searching this thread and didnt come up with any results. My problem is I'm getting a pulsing image that is very noticeable on lighter scenes. It isnt the video cutting out but a pulse in the brightness. I dont know how else to explain what is going on. What should I do to fix this problem?

I just bought a samsung hlt6176s used for $650. It had a small amount of bowing but I didn't really notice it until I started reading this thread, then it started to drive me crazy. I tried sticking folded up pieces of a business card between the screen and bezel like suggested earier in this thread and it straigtened it right out.

The question I have now is that I used the Avia disk to calibrate my set. I came up with these settings, don't they seem a little off? I did the calibration about 6 times and I came up with the same settings everytime.

Movie
Contrast:100
Brightness:33
Sharpness:30
Color:48
Tint: G-47 R-53
Color Tone:Normal

After calibrating I turned dynamic Contrast on and that seemed to make my picture even better.

Wow that contrast is high! Here's what I use:
Movie
Contrast:27
Brightness:51
Sharpness:0
Color:65
Tint: G-55 R-45
Color Tone:Normal
Everything else OFF


Admitidly, my settings are litle dark. I was playing with it a bit and Samsung's defualt "Movie Mode" is Contrast 90 Brightness 45, which seems closer to what you calibrated. Note that Gamma is -3 in the Detailed Settings Menu with Movie Mode.