Originally Posted by dlechner
Thanks for the response. The problem isn't the correct equipment or finding the patterns in the menu, the issue is not finding the RGB-gains and offsets in the submenus. I went through ALL of the submenus and can't seem to find the "whitebalance" submenu.
Thanks for the response!
Here is in a nutshell what I was trying to explain. I'm better at showing than typing, so I'll probably not tell you everything you need to know . Just keep asking. I'll check here more often, don't know why I didn't see your reply in my email. Something to look into later.
Anyway in the SM, you get into a mode which runs the DMD chip, and its driver chip. It has it's own test patterns built in, so it if AFTER any TV or video processing from the TV. You get it to display full screens of RGBCYW and record the x,y and luminace cdm2 readings on your colorimeter.
You record all these readings, then punch in these readings. Rinse, repeat. (Usually just to check for typo error).
Now When you display the colors with the built in test patterns, your colorimeter should be perfect.
You permanently store these corrections and go from there. Later if a color wheel is replaced, bulb, etc, you would do the same thing, and your "in TV circuit" settings for each resolution, 'should' be ok.
Now you get to the array of independent settings which will be dependent on (mostly) the resolution mode and/or input, i.e. 1080, 720, 480, s-video, component etc. There is also the 'spread' functions which will overwrite this info to other areas you may not be aware of.
I don't have time to begin to look all this up at the moment, but there are many dependencies, as do s-video first, as component is an offset of that etc. (An example, I don't have notes here).
I have a very well worn lamp in this set as I use it for a PC display plus TV, so it is noticeably dimmer than new.
I will soon, maybe over new year's do the above light engine calibration with the old lamp. (I've done it on and off to tweak in for new input toy or HDPC box etc). Now I will tweak to the old bulb, put in the new bulb, and I expect considerable change in WB and Luminace levels. Will print out the errors.
I will then do the engine tweak again, with a blastingly bright new lamp, and I should have correct settings again for all my inputs.
Later after as lamp burns in, I will expect change, then I will rinse, repeat.
Playing in the SM is thermonuclear destruction if you are not careful.
I picked a DLP just because of its renew ability, but am dismayed at the extreme levels of deposits from cooking and likely the wood stove too, inside the light engine. My scanner on another floor shows the cooking fumes under the glass. I can not imagine a dlp in a smoker's environment or a bar. I may disassemble the engine to clean the internal optics if I feel like punishing myself some snowy night. (And maybe find out what goes 'bang' pop, tick). I thought pops and ticks went out with vinyl.