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2007 Samsung HL-Txx76 Owner's Thread - Page 65

post #1921 of 1965
Samsung tech came out and fixed the white spot issue! very excited.

Looks great, but the only problem is that upon further inspection my parents didn't clean the screen (ever!).

I gave it a good wipe down and it looks much better, but there seem to be some black smudges (on the inside of the tv or the mirror or something?)






I'm guessing they are on the inside of the tv? the bulb is fresh and has not been smudged.
post #1922 of 1965
I bid my dear Samsung DLP a fond farewell today. Sad to see her go. She was a great set for about 5 years, but not worth fixing at this point. If I had it to do over again I would still get this set 5 years ago. But now I move on to the Panasonic Plasma thread! smile.gif
post #1923 of 1965
Still Love my DLP, I use My Sammy Plasma and LCD more but the DLP def has a real nice pic.
post #1924 of 1965
I have had this TV for about 5 years now and its been greg until late, it was giving a loud humming noise and would shut of an on, i replaced the color wheel which took care of the humming however the on and off is still happening, the bulb comes on for a few seconds then shuts off, i am thinking its the bulb cause it makes a noise but am not sure cause the TV doesnt stay on long enough i dont think its the balast cause the TV clicks on and off. Any ideas on what could be the issue?
post #1925 of 1965
still going strong. ever since I had the tech replace the DMD chip and clean the convex mirror, replace the lamp, PQ has been great.

I really don't see much in the stores that is better until you get up to the sharp pro ect.
post #1926 of 1965
Quote:
Originally Posted by rlucio210 View Post

I have had this TV for about 5 years now and its been greg until late, it was giving a loud humming noise and would shut of an on, i replaced the color wheel which took care of the humming however the on and off is still happening, the bulb comes on for a few seconds then shuts off, i am thinking its the bulb cause it makes a noise but am not sure cause the TV doesnt stay on long enough i dont think its the balast cause the TV clicks on and off. Any ideas on what could be the issue?

was replacing the color wheel hard? I heard a loud pop and lost my picture and I think I need to replace the color wheel.. I replaced the bulb last year after almost 4yrs of being on a lot.

Btw.. where did you buy your color wheel.. I have been afraid to pull the trigger on buying a CW as some places have different model numbers they claim fit my tv.
post #1927 of 1965
That loud pop you heard was your lamp bursting. Check it first before worrying about a color wheel
post #1928 of 1965
Quote:
Originally Posted by porsche1207 View Post

was replacing the color wheel hard? I heard a loud pop and lost my picture and I think I need to replace the color wheel.. I replaced the bulb last year after almost 4yrs of being on a lot.
Btw.. where did you buy your color wheel.. I have been afraid to pull the trigger on buying a CW as some places have different model numbers they claim fit my tv.


I ordered the color wheel thru amazon, it was not hard at all. If you heard a pop it was more than likely the bulb I'd go with that first
post #1929 of 1965
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

That loud pop you heard was your lamp bursting. Check it first before worrying about a color wheel

wow.. i originally thought the bulb..but since the original lasted over 3 1/2 years .. I didn't think the bulb could go in a year.. but i checked and it popped. So thank you. I ordered the one off newegg since I don't want to replace them once a year. Plus newegg has it on sale for $84.99 with free shipping.

Thanks for making me reconsider.
post #1930 of 1965
Cheap aftermarket lamps are known for not lasting. This is 1 case where its always best to go with the OEM from the manufacturer.
post #1931 of 1965
I hope this is the right place for this question. I've done tons of Google searches, AVSforum search and searched this thread in particular, with no results. I have the HL-T5676, the 3D options are all grayed out in the menu. I have the 3DTV Corp DLP-Link glasses that work awesome on my Mitsu DLP with no issue.

Can these even work with my Samsung, or does it ONLY work with IR emitter glasses? If yes, what do I need to do to "unlock" the 3D options? I was told I need to do 'Checkerboard' format, but I can't even get that far. Sources include the latest DirecTV HD DVR which outputs 3D perfect on my Mitsu. Also have a recent Sony smart BluRay (network connected) player and PS3 with latest system and firmware. Format on my Mitsu is 'Side-by-side' 3D mode.

Please link me any threads answering this already, or just a quick answer. Thanks!
post #1932 of 1965
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghosty427 View Post

I hope this is the right place for this question. I've done tons of Google searches, AVSforum search and searched this thread in particular, with no results. I have the HL-T5676, the 3D options are all grayed out in the menu. I have the 3DTV Corp DLP-Link glasses that work awesome on my Mitsu DLP with no issue.
Can these even work with my Samsung, or does it ONLY work with IR emitter glasses? If yes, what do I need to do to "unlock" the 3D options? I was told I need to do 'Checkerboard' format, but I can't even get that far. Sources include the latest DirecTV HD DVR which outputs 3D perfect on my Mitsu. Also have a recent Sony smart BluRay (network connected) player and PS3 with latest system and firmware. Format on my Mitsu is 'Side-by-side' 3D mode.
Please link me any threads answering this already, or just a quick answer. Thanks!

For some reason Samsung only enabled 3D viewing on HDMI/DVI input which is input 3. All other input sources will not have 3D enabled so make sure your 3D source is connected to that input. I have the same set as you in a 50" model as well as a Mitsu Laservue. The Mitsu has all inputs 3D enabled.

EJ
post #1933 of 1965
Quote:
Originally Posted by EmerJency View Post

For some reason Samsung only enabled 3D viewing on HDMI/DVI input which is input 3. All other input sources will not have 3D enabled so make sure your 3D source is connected to that input. I have the same set as you in a 50" model as well as a Mitsu Laservue. The Mitsu has all inputs 3D enabled.

EJ
Ok great, so I'll try that input instead of HDMI-1 which I have it on now, and report back. So DLP-Link glasses do indeed work this way with our model? Even if it does, that kinda sucks because I'll have to switch connections between the the Satellite and the BluRay player depending. Still worth not being the IR Emitter kit though! Guess I'll find out...

Thanks for the advice!
post #1934 of 1965
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghosty427 View Post

Ok great, so I'll try that input instead of HDMI-1 which I have it on now, and report back. So DLP-Link glasses do indeed work this way with our model? Even if it does, that kinda sucks because I'll have to switch connections between the the Satellite and the BluRay player depending. Still worth not being the IR Emitter kit though! Guess I'll find out...
Thanks for the advice!

Yah, these sets will work with DLP-Link glasses as well as IR glasses with proper emitter. You will need to get a 3D converter to use with any newer sources such as PS3 as this set can only use the checkerboard format and you will find it hard to find 3D sources that use that format. I use an old Mitsu 3D adapter that I unlocked to use with my old Sammy, you can input side-by-side or top-bottom formats and it converts it to the proper checkerboard for this set.

EJ
post #1935 of 1965
Well that sucks, the glasses manufacturer says mine need "side-by-side" format, will this work if the TV can only do checkerboard?
post #1936 of 1965
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghosty427 View Post

Well that sucks, the glasses manufacturer says mine need "side-by-side" format, will this work if the TV can only do checkerboard?

I can can only comment on my experience with my setup. I used DLP-Link glasses and my old Sammy with a converter and it worked well. Converter also works with my RF glasses.

EJ
post #1937 of 1965
Damn, I powered everything off, tried both my DirecTV and my Sony Bluray player HDMI inputs to the HDMI-3 slot, powered the device first, THEN the TV. But the 3D/Dual-mode option remains grayed out.

I'll have to test with a Panny or other known working checkerboard device on HDMI-3, and see if that changes anything. Samsung really screwed up this design and options!
post #1938 of 1965
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghosty427 View Post

Damn, I powered everything off, tried both my DirecTV and my Sony Bluray player HDMI inputs to the HDMI-3 slot, powered the device first, THEN the TV. But the 3D/Dual-mode option remains grayed out.

I'll have to test with a Panny or other known working checkerboard device on HDMI-3, and see if that changes anything. Samsung really screwed up this design and options!

Try renaming HDMI3 to PC and see if that helps. That's how mine is setup.

Hope you get it sorted.

EJ
post #1939 of 1965
Does anyone have working knowledge regarding adjustment of the two mirrors mounted on top of the light engine on the 5676 (specifically the smaller/concave mirror)? Obviously adjustment of any one mirror effects it's relationship with the others, as well as focus. That being said the flat mirror on the top of the cabinet primarily affects where the bottom of the picture sits, the convex (larger mirror) adjusts primarily where the top of the image sits. I havent messed with the concave/smallest mirror. I suspect adjusting the concave mirrror uniformly in or out would adjust zoom/overscan, side to side or up/down would be a pincusion/centering adjustment that (could) be used to lessen a bowing affect I see on the bottom of the screen. Considering this mirror is partly held in place by "sticky tape" it's drifting out of alignment with time could almost be assured, and is my prime suspect for the bowing and drastic overscan off the bottom of the screen (set's own OSD was cut off down there).
Adjusting the flat/chassis mirror and the convex mirror it was a cinch to recenter the picture and "squeeze" the image top/bottom overscan, (and a minor refocus adjustment), the bowing on the bottom is substantially less, but still noticable. I would rather get rid of the overscan uniformly to maintain the aspect ratio, and some input regarding the adjustment of the convcave mirror would be helpful.

I got the service manual for the set and was extremely dissapointed as it did not cover any of this (or any explanation of the service menu items, downright maddening)

Yeah Yeah Yeah supposedly you're not supposed to ever touch any of this stuff ever. Dont bother telling me that. I picked up 2 of these sets cheap on CL and ripped apart the light engines (to clean optics etc) with no ill effects. The first one only (very) minor geometry issues and I gave it to a close relative for christmas. Dissasembly and cleaning of the optics can be done, just not by an average Joe that who doesnt have a good regard for handling and cleaning of precision optics. And, yes, the bottom/off screen overscan and bowing were present before I ripped the light engine apart, and upon reassembly, had not changed. The overall picture quality did improve dramatically on both sets (sharpness,black level ,color purity, brightness). These optical blocks arent sealed as well as they really should be. From what I can see, to keep these sets looking good there really is no choice but to tear apart (or replace) the light engine every 3-5 years.
post #1940 of 1965
Terance, I've had 2 of these light engines apart, Dark fuzzy spots are are dust/fingerprints on the dust glass/mirrors/fresnel (top part of light engine you can see through the back chassis inspection cover, and the back side of the screen). Light fuzzy spots are dust inside the light engine itself, particurarly on the face of the DMD itself. Dust on the other internal optics tends to manifest as either dark spots or a decrease in uniform brightness/ elevated black level.
post #1941 of 1965
I might add to that: improper cleaning/household cleaners/low grade optical (eyeglass/screen cleaning/windex etc) leaves a film residue... any or all: defocus, ghost images, decreased brightness, elevated black levels)
post #1942 of 1965
Other than the top mirror, you can adjust the image position buy moving the entire light engine chassis. You loosen the hold down screws and there are a couple of adjustment screws on each side to move the chassis forward and back.

It's easy to adjust the top mirror, (this adjustment only affects the bottom of the picture). Loosen the four phillips screws along the top rear of the set, then turn the slotted posts next to the screws a small amount to raise or lower the bottom edges of the picture. Finally, tighten the four screws. You will need a grid pattern such as the program guide on the screen to do this.
post #1943 of 1965
Quote:
Originally Posted by shinka View Post

Other than the top mirror, you can adjust the image position buy moving the entire light engine chassis. You loosen the hold down screws and there are a couple of adjustment screws on each side to move the chassis forward and back.

I didn't catch this. Forward/back of the entire engine might well do the trick. I didn't notice such adjustment screws when I had the engine out before. I see the metal "spring tabs" behind those two screws, I get it now. Thanks, that might just do the trick. That really doesnt seem like a terribly durable design for holding the the F/B engine alignment, but at least now I know. The service manual for this set is terrible. Lots of schematics (for boards so complex they tend to be replaced rather than repaired), very little in the way of useful information for common problems and diagnosis. Other than pages and pages of schematics the bulk of it is basically a rehash of the owners manual.
post #1944 of 1965
Well, I set the two top mirrors back to their original positions and unscrewed those two bottom screws at bottom of the engine tray. F/B movement of the light engine definately isn't the problem, as it was seated all the way forward, pulling it back actually makes it worse. (screen centers even lower with even more OSD cutoff). By lightly touching the back of the concave mirror in at several points around it's paremeter I get a feel for how it's role in positioning on the whole chain. I'm certain it's the problem now. I will need to pull the engine and inspect this mirror and it's provisioning for adjustment more closely.
post #1945 of 1965

Not the concave mirror... two sets of adjustments there, but neither accomplish what I'm after.  Got excited I might be able to bring down the overscan, but this changes the focal length and the difference in focus between center/outside paremeter of screen changes from imperceptable to unacceptable.  Second adjustment (slides mirror mount top to bottom on the housing) primarily an alignment point seems to be perfect right where it was.

 

I'm looking at the chassis now: Discovered when pulling up near the center of bezel Something "clicks" into place.  The image position snaps up (by about the amount that seems appropriate) with near perfect geometry (no bowing/beautifully straight lines, negligable trapezoid viewing small grid test pattern).   Problem is, when i do much of anything it snaps back out and doesn't want to stay.  When it's "in" I can even press modestly on the top of the TV with zero effect on screen position/geometry.  Guess I'll have to take this thing completely apart to get to the bottom of it.

post #1946 of 1965
The set is extremely sensitive to un-level stands. Make sure your stand is not warped, some users have shimmed the set's feet to square up the image. Also the screen tends to bulge out and distort the picture. I have mine leaning back a little to minimize this and make the picture a little brighter when standing up.
post #1947 of 1965

Ok, I got it.

 

Problem # 1:  aluminium bracket top bezel (holds screen in place).  This locks into a channel formed between mirror frame and top plastic chassis.  It's rear dimension (the short edge that locks in) is too tall by about 1-2 mm.  This "spreads" the chassis/mirror apart putting pressure on the mirror brace bending/flexing the mirror out of shape.  File (or dremmel) between 1-2 mm, then bend the bracket to about 1/2" deflection (up in the middle).  Before bending the bracket test fit onto the chassis, you want a tiny bit of up/down play when it's attached:  when assembled it will now support the plastic chassis without putting pressure on the aluminium mirror frame.   The mirror and chassis are attached: Bending too far will have the opposite effect turning the smile shaped bowing upside-down.

 

Problem #2:  Bottom bezel misshapen/bowed out.  I think this might be by design to give the lower bezel a rounded appearance in relation to the bottom "foot" which is circular.  It exacerbates the effect of #1 above.   At the 4 screw points that attach the lower bezel to the chassis (the 4 upper screws), on the front of the chassis there is a "standoff" built into the chassis (protrusions that look like an "=").  File those off.  Also file about half of the long thin horizontal standoff that runs between the two middle screws.   Now... when assembling the screen back onto the chassis DO NOT screw these tight!  Consider them a screen adjustment.  The right 3 (at least on the 56") can be reached with the TV operating with long or stubby phillips drivers.  Tighten the two middle screws only enough to remove any bowing left after correction of problem #1.  Remove guts, then tighten outer two screws until they seat against the chassis + 1/8 turn.  If you use the TV speakers these may vibrate/loosen.  Use teflon tape or threadlocker to keep them set.

 

Potential problem 2.5:  check 4 quick release/alignment posts (bottom set 4 lower bezel screws) are properly seated.  They should rotate (like a radio knob) about 1/4 turn.  If they dont, they arent assembled properly and will space the lower bezel out making adjustment #2 impossible.

 

Check/adjust focus.

 

What I can't believe is that these sets got past the prototype stage with these "simple dimensional correction" issues present.   Once I ruled out the light engine and looked at the chassis, it took me less than 1 day to determine the nature of the problem brainstorm up a correction.   Samsung would have a "team" of design engineers paid to figure this stuff out, so why didn't they?  That top bezel bracket really should be steel (as well as "resized").

 

Someday when I'm somewhere else (not behind this firewall of armegeddon) I will post a pic of my screen with the small hatch pattern pulled up with it's (now) beautiful near perfect geometry.   I acquired it unwatchable...have seen other post pics similar, with bottom OSD smile shaped and cut off ("Enter") not visible.

post #1948 of 1965
I'm impressed, mine is good enough using the factory provided adjustments that I don't usually notice the bowing except when the guide is onscreen. Congratulations on re-engineering this set, this is why it was only a one year design.
post #1949 of 1965
Quote:
Originally Posted by shinka View Post

I'm impressed, mine is good enough using the factory provided adjustments that I don't usually notice the bowing except when the guide is onscreen. Congratulations on re-engineering this set, this is why it was only a one year design.

 

The first 5676 I got from CL for my sister wasn't near as bad as this second one (for myself).  "dont usually notice..." is how I'd describe the first one.

 

Still not technically done with this set... picture not as bright as it should be, tracked it to the switching IC on the SMPS.  V+ to ballast down 30v, heat sink attached to that IC energized with 340vac.  Surprised the set turns on, frankly.  Fortunately SM schematic shows IC P/N (Fairchild  FSCQ0765RTYDTU).  Samsung doesnt list it as a replacement part but digi key has them.  New SMPS kind of salty I prefer to repair one thats in there.   They didn't use thermal strips between any of those ICs with large attached heat sinks.    Hmmm....   Not sure if thats better or worse than what they did with the DMD heat sink.

 

Edit: replaced that IC, V+ to ballast came up to 299v (should be 310v according to SM).  It drifts +/- 2v.  Looking at C810,C811,C812, D805, or possibly the transformer.   If any of those 3 caps or the diode got leaky it would drag down the ballast V+.  That little feedback loop ccross the transformer appears to be the final regulation.


Edited by mrbrian200 - 1/30/13 at 7:42pm
post #1950 of 1965
I have a HL-T5676S and not long after I turn it on (there is a picture) it turns its self off then back on and repeats til I unplug it. When it goes through the on off stage the picture doesnt come back( dont think it has the time to turn back on before it turns off). I replaced the bulb and the door switch is in place. I tried resetting the lamp timer in the service menu but the tv turns off before I can maneuver through the menu. Whats next?
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