The Official Pioneer 8G KURO Owner's Discussions Thread - Page 351

I would like to mount my 5010 on the wall using StudioTech P-120. Along the back of the set are two strips of 3 screw holes to be used for mounting. Right next to the bottom most holes is a largish screw. This screw is right in the way of where the bracket I'm going to use for mounting goes. I can use a spacer, but would prefer not to. Anyone know what these screws are used for? Has anyone removed them when wall mounting?

Thanks!

hmmm, the Pioneer tech that was at my house determined that the X,Y drives are the main source of the buzz. The X,Y drives in my set buzz much louder than the panel.

He also told me Pioneer already has a standard for acceptable noise. It is measured 6 ft from the screen but he couldn't remember the exact number in dbs.

It's getting hard to believe anything Pioneer says. I observed the X,Y drives with my own eyes and ears though. They are the main source of buzzing, in my set anyway, and I've seen 2 sets of X,Y drives produce the same amount of buzz. If you hear buzz from the left and right sides behind the panel it is the X,Y drives. The rear of the glass is covered with a metal shield. I had to put my ear almost on the panel to hear the glass buzz from the rear. X,Y drives where buzzing like crazy.

viper43 - don't take it sooooo hard - but this is a EVERY day occurrance for us in the service biz....we are the authorized service rep for about 30 brands and we get at least 1 phone call a day pertaining to the NIB one day, broken the next.
Even what we think to be the best Pioneer Elite/Runco BREAK. If we SELL one we just about force the customer to purchase the 5 yr extd warranty-we sell NSI's which is underwritten by AIG.
We repaired a Pioneer 1130 that was 3 years old and was covered by Warrantech's ext.
The set was dead. The total repair was 1453. parts and labor.
Tell your son-in-laws and your friends at work that Pioneer Elite is still the best, but like anything else electronic in this 21st century-it breaks.
Enjoy the NEW working one.
alan levens
audio video designs
cc,tx
361 8577236

PDP 6010FD - Pioneer Plasma vs In-wall Speakers

I imagine that Pioneer shields it's electronics superbly, but still curious if adjacent speakers need to be shielded to preserve performance??

Hello! I bought the Elite PRO-110FD today from a local dealer, Giant TV, Inc., to replace my PDP-5070HD. I intentionally skipped the FHD1 to wait for a 2nd or 3rd gen 1080p that would be considerably better & cheaper, and here it is! I was quite pleased to receive final pricing for “A” stock that is factory sealed and recently manufactured at considerably lower pricing than any online advertised price, including eBay & eBay ended auctions as well. Then again, I didn’t have to pay for shipping and insurance, only $45 for local delivery. They claimed that this was a one of a kind deal for a display that they were allowed special pricing for since it was supposed to be for display use and they supposedly ended up with an extra shipment. I also recieved an official invoice and I'm told full dealer warrenty applies. Hopefully this deal wasn’t too good to be true, I’ll find out later today when my 110FD is delivered.

Questions #1:
Anyways, I have a question that needs answered please. They will deliver to me today between 2 & 4 PM CST and I need to know if the 110FD is already mounted on the stand. Giant TV tells me that it’s not, that there are 3 separate boxes within and that I will need to place the stand on the ground and then slide the TV onto the mount from above. This totally contradicts the manual’s installation instructions for the stand installation (manual says to lay panel on a flat surface and then mount stand). However, manual does not tell you if 110FD already has the stand installed (from my impression of manual, it is not already installed). However, I did find one post from October 20th stating, “The stand is attached and speakers need to attached.”
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post11963551

I’m essentially looking for confirmation that the stand is indeed already installed on the 110FD. If so, fantastic, because then I need only take out of box and have it trade places with my 5070HD:
http://www.neo-geo.com/personal/ht.jpg

Question #2:
Also, I made a break-in DVD to use with the 100FD, but is it really necessary to do this insanely long break-in for a whopping 150 to 200 hours? Considering that my 5070HD only received about 45 minutes of average daily use over the past 14 months, which translates to < 200 hours of total use for the display I’m replacing. I never used the break-in DVD with my 5070 but I did use D-Nice’s low brightness break-in settings for the 1st 50 or so hours and absolutely no burn-in or image retention has ever been detected on my 5070.

Yeah I noticed right away, still changing the channel even today when I want to increase the volume (to drown out the buzzing) lol
Another annoyance is that you can't add more than one input to your Favourites list. Now instead of just pressing P+ you have to press individually on the Inputs above. Well done Pioneer on this one too.

My PRO-110 came on the stand. It had to be removed for wall installation. The speakers came in a separate box.

Does this buzzing I keep reading about occur only the 50" models and how common is it? Do they all do it?

I ask because I have a 4280HD and cant hear any buzzing whatsoever but I was considering exchanging it for a 5080HD .. Especially since the 5080 price dropped to the same amount I paid for the 4280HD just 3 weeks ago.

I had a PRO-1150HD for (3) weeks, which did not buzz, until I returned it for a PRO-150FD that does not buzz either.

thanks dssturbo1. How about that power plug. Is it flat or the standard type? regards...

On a PDP-5080HD, can the plasma be lowered on the stand if not using the bottom speakers? I have seen this mentioned about previous models but not sure if it will work with this one. I looked at the back and it seems you would only use the two upper screws and not the lower set of screws. Right now I have the bottom speaker mounted because I do not think it looks good with a gap there but would love to do away with the speaker and lower the plasma so there is no open space there. Anybody done this?

Has anybody had intermitent buzz with there display. Several days ago I posted my 5010 started to buzz from the left side with the sound coming from by the blue light. I turned the set off for the night and the next day no buzz, if fact no buzz for several days but last night it started again. I muted the volume still there,did the power saving stuff and still there then I switched of my direct tv box and even with blank screen it buzzed so I gave up and went to bed. This morning it's been on for 2 hours and no buzz Not sure to call Pioneer or Best buy or wait and see any input would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

The idea came to me of installing the brackets (for wall mount) onto the tv that way all I would have to do is unscrew the stand in lift the tv to the wall. However I realize the screws to remove the stand are blocked if I install the wall brackets. My question is are those screws baring the weight of the tv or are they there to hold the stand to the tv when it is lifted? I'd like to take the screws out and when the second set of able hands arrives be able to just lift it off the stand and onto the wall. Thank you in advance.

Anybody answer if the 150 power plug is flat where it plugs into the outlet. Regards

as far as surge protection I am doing the following. I ran a separate 20amp circuit to the components. I'll run an outlet from this new 20amp circuit up to the wall mount. There I will install the monster HTFS 1000 surge protector.
http://www.monstercable.com/productdisplay.asp?pin=1962

all my other components will be in an 8 outlet Tripplite ISOTEL ULTRA surge protector which provides 150 volts of clamping protection. The new 20amp outlet will be protected in my SquareD box By the QO2175SB which is a special circuit breaker that takes up 2 slots in the main box. This is a WHOLE HOUSE protection device ($80).

http://ecatalog.squared.com/catalog/.../17406004.html

I think this is more than adequate for the occassional spikes of electric the normal household receives. Regards

Quick question. I have had a few samsungs in which I use the qam tuner to get free HD and SD tv using the coaxial cable feed. I returned a panny plasma which was unable to obtain any channels and I found out that It didn't have qam tuner. Does anyone know if the 5080/5010's are able to pick up free HD and SD channels using qam? Is anyone using the tv for this purpose?

That Monster Surge protector is only rated for 15 amps. You should probably run your TV outlet off a 15 amp breaker.

Also my plug is not flat for my 5080. Here is one though.

http://www.accessories4less.com/cgi-...em/TRIB7PSR030

This won't work - that is unless you are going to lose the filtering due to the balun on the original power cord. There is a picture of the Pio power cord in the manual.

Yes, It will pick up any unencrypted qam signals that cable sends

Tom thanks but I don't think thats how it works. The Monster and my Tripplite are both rated at 15 amps or 1800 watts (watts/volts=amps). As long as I don't exceed 1800 watts in either the Monster or Tripplite surge(s) I should be OK. In addtion as long as I don't exceed 2400 watts on the entire 20 amp circuit, again no problem. At least thats the way I remember how electrical receptacles and standard breakers work. The most wattage going into the Tripplite will be about 1200 watts and the Monster 550 watts. I think there is no problem with this setup. Regards...

Ordered my pro-150fd today, with a delivery date of 12/31. I'll be upgrading from a 36" Toshiba crt. I have high expectations especially after seeing the Kuro pictures thread.


Good way to bring in 2008!

Welcome! congrats!

I checked with JR they have the 6010 FD for 4600.00. I have bought many otems from JR and have never had a problem with gray market stuff.
Is there any where I can get the Pioneer PRO-150FD at a good price? With Pioneer warranty?
thanks
bob

Only MSRP pricing is allowed here. Do a search on Pioneer website for authorized dealers.

It's not a balun. It's a ferrite bead.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead

It filters RFI and is added to qualify the device for FCC class B rating. If the display is not in a location prone to receiving or causing RFI, it won't make a difference.

Quick question - does anyone know if there's any way to disable the on-screen display that keeps popping up when you change signal formats?

On my SA 8300HD connected via HDMI I've noticed it comes up when I merely change between SD and HD channels, even though the box is currently configured to send 1080i at all times (the picture never drops out or resyncronizes, just the OSD suddenly pops on).

Ferrite cores can help reject any type of common mode noise. That includes radio frequency pickup, but also other common mode signals such as ground loop currents or capacitive/inductive pickup from other nearby electrical sources. The size and material of the core determine what types of signals will be most effectively attenuated.

msrp only, besides that price doesnt include shipping.
You will get a much better price from avs sponsors.

dunno whats worse, the fact that you violated the rules or the silly price you posted

Thanks, Doug.

I will mess around with the TV Guide settings and see if that fixes the problem.


The next time it happens I will count and report.

Can you post what the common problems are per flashes?

According to NEC code, breakers must be derated 20% when calculating maximum continuous load. Therfore a 20amp breaker should not have more than 16amps maximum continuous load and a 15amp breaker should not have more than 12amps maximum continuous load.