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The Official Pioneer 8G KURO Owner's Discussions Thread - Page 572

post #17131 of 17538
Quote:
Originally Posted by D.Rowe View Post

I've seen 5020's for $1999. We currently have a 5080 but we sit 9-10ft from TV so 1080p just doesn't seem worth it in our current setup. Would love to get my hands on a 720p 50" that can top the 5080. Thinking one of the 8G ELITES is the only thing that really could.

What were the 8G ELITE model #'s that did 720p (ie. 768p) ? Anyone?

Dave

pro-950hd and pro-1150hd...
post #17132 of 17538
We currently have a 5080 but we sit 9-10ft from TV so 1080p just doesn't seem worth it in our current setup.


I changed MY mind ..... the living room viewing is also 10' + ..... so I'll keep the 5080 ( I DID get an offer for $1350 locally).

After finding out about the 500M, more research, availability thru mid year is likely. I hope to sell my 7 week old 5020 with 3 yr extended for $2100/2200 locally ( I was told BB got all the remaining 5020 inventory, locally BB sells these for 3 more total with taxes).

Then, I'll buy the 500M (only if) .......... will the 5080 stand work for the 500 monitor ? I'll call on Monday to verify that.

I actually like the USER settings (of Dnice, but MID color temp) on the 5080 more so than the MOVIE settings of a 5020 (using the GAME mode now).

Both the 8 & 9G are terrific, but even sitting 5 ft from the 5020 is a better incredible (I view from 8' in the recliner). If everything works out, I won't have to spend any extra.
post #17133 of 17538
Hi everyone just got back from vacation and purchased a 5010...hooked her up and was watching tv and noticed some weird cloudish looking spots (@top mostly)knew it wasnt light leakage its as if some one stained the inside of the glass.... Will this go away after time or is this what they call Dirty glass...Have just now started to breakin...Need to know yalls expertise on this thanks...
post #17134 of 17538
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paullouisj View Post

Hi everyone just got back from vacation and purchased a 5010...hooked her up and was watching tv and noticed some weird cloudish looking spots (@top mostly)knew it wasnt light leakage its as if some one stained the inside of the glass.... Will this go away after time or is this what they call Dirty glass...Have just now started to breakin...Need to know yalls expertise on this thanks...


I have never seen anything like this. Hopefully it is something that will go away during the break in!
post #17135 of 17538
Unfortunately, I may have to sell my Elite 1150 for my move to Florida. Awesome tv and I really don't want to sell it ,but if I do what is a respectable price where I am not giving it away. List was I think $3995, I paid $2800 plus tax. What should I expect. Thank you for your replies!
post #17136 of 17538
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surf1244 View Post

Unfortunately, I may have to sell my Elite 1150 for my move to Florida. Awesome tv and I really don't want to sell it ,but if I do what is a respectable price where I am not giving it away. List was I think $3995, I paid $2800 plus tax. What should I expect. Thank you for your replies!

unfortunately I don't see you getting more than $1500 for it. Prices have plummeted on Pio's lately. You can get a brand new 5020 for $2K.
post #17137 of 17538
Quote:
Originally Posted by b_scott View Post

unfortunately I don't see you getting more than $1500 for it. Prices have plummeted on Pio's lately. You can get a brand new 5020 for $2K.

I checked ebay last night and a refirb 1150 is selling for $1981 so I would think mine is worth around $2,000 considering it listed for $4,500 and is only a year old.
post #17138 of 17538
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surf1244 View Post

I checked ebay last night and a refirb 1150 is selling for $1981 so I would thing mine is worth around $2,000 considering it listed for $3995 and is only a year old.

"selling for" or "asking"? 2 different things there.

unfortunately, what something listed for when it was new doesn't necessarily have any bearing on what it's worth today (especially when the "list" price is significantly more than the actual selling price was)...

newer/better ones are selling for significantly less than the price you paid for yours... consider what someone already posted... if you were a buyer, would you pay $2k for your set or $2k for a newer/better set?

tv's depreciate like rocks... good luck, but if it was me, i'd jump on the first $1500 that someone offered me for it...

be happy you aren't trying to sell a rptv... i paid 2700 for one and was lucky to get 500 for it 2 years later...
post #17139 of 17538
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surf1244 View Post

I checked ebay last night and a refirb 1150 is selling for $1981 so I would thing mine is worth around $2,000 considering it listed for $3995 and is only a year old.

That's the price the seller is asking, and there's no guarantee he'll see anything close to that. Note that he hasn't received a single bid.

$1500 is about as good as you should get for a 768p display that's been used for a year and was replaced in Pioneer's lineup by the 1080p PRO-111 Elite display that was going for only 50% more than that just a few months ago.
post #17140 of 17538
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

"selling for" or "asking"? 2 different things there.

unfortunately, what something listed for when it was new doesn't necessarily have any bearing on what it's worth today (especially when the "list" price is significantly more than the actual selling price was)...

newer/better ones are selling for significantly less than the price you paid for yours... consider what someone already posted... if you were a buyer, would you pay $2k for your set or $2k for a newer/better set?

tv's depreciate like rocks... good luck, but if it was me, i'd jump on the first $1500 that someone offered me for it...

be happy you aren't trying to sell a rptv... i paid 2700 for one and was lucky to get 500 for it 2 years later...

I here what your selling, but I don't think paying $2,000 for a set today like lets say Samsung is going to be better overall than the Pioneer Elite 1150 for $1,800-$2,000 that listed for $4,500 in July/2007 and has been always the top rated picture by reviews like Cnet and Consumer Reports.
post #17141 of 17538
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surf1244 View Post

I here what your selling, but I don't think paying $2,000 for a set today like lets say Samsung is going to be better overall than the Pioneer Elite 1150 for $1,800-$2,000 that listed for $4,500 in July/2007 and has been always the top rated picture by reviews like Cnet and Consumer Reports.

I tried to sell my perfect 1150 on ebay twice for $1600 and a Buy It Now for $1700. Had 300 looks the first time with 11 Watchers and no bid. Ended the second listing early since it was pointless.

Had it listed on Craiglist also with useless time wasting questions. Received 1 time waster from AVS also.

When I say perfect: 7 Months old with 700 Hours on it with a photo proof of the Hours, Original Packaging, and the Receipt for the remaining Warranty if bought local.

I was going to upgrade to a 111 and there was a perfect panel here that I was breaking in. Could not have both so the 111 went back to BB. Can honestly say it was a very tough decision for me.

Had the 1150 professionally calibrated since it was a no brainer. If I was willing to take a $1000 hit on depreciation it would not hurt to pay $400 for a calibration if I was keeping it. I am a firm believer in calibration now since the calibration elevated the 1150 to a jaw dropper.

Would strongly suggest that you do everything you can to keep the 1150 and get it calibrated.


David
post #17142 of 17538
I haven't posted for a while, but, did post previously about what appeared to be tiny bubbles under the screen coating on our 6010. Originally there were only 3 that I could see and I could only see them while looking at an angle with the tv off. Today I was doing some cleaning and was shocked to see maybe as many as 30 small bubbles.

Anyone else having this problem? I got BB to throw in a 4 year warranty when I bought so hope Pio has some repacement screens in stock.
post #17143 of 17538
Quote:
Originally Posted by AtriIshaya View Post

I haven't posted for a while, but, did post previously about what appeared to be tiny bubbles under the screen coating on our 6010. Originally there were only 3 that I could see and I could only see them while looking at an angle with the tv off. Today I was doing some cleaning and was shocked to see maybe as many as 30 small bubbles.

Anyone else having this problem? I got BB to throw in a 4 year warranty when I bought so hope Pio has some repacement screens in stock.

Unless you are seeing bubbles from a normal viewing location, I don't think Pioneer will replace anything.
post #17144 of 17538
since you guys are talking about aftermarkets, I just purchased a 5010fd from another avs user for $1400. He had it for a year and said he followed all break in protocol etc. I went and checked it out and bought it. So far I am happy, its a great price in my book considering the price of the sets new. I know some said there are 5020's for $2k but I have seen them listed higher and 6 ave still selling this set for $2600 new. BTW the tv is great!

On a side note is there an alternative to pioneer parts? Everything was fine but i am missing the speaker brackets, everything was supposed to be in the package but its an honest mistake (considering he never used them). Pioneer wants $100 and change for them, I am ok with paying that but if i can do better it wont hurt.
post #17145 of 17538
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJLEC View Post

I tried to sell my perfect 1150 on ebay twice for $1600 and a Buy It Now for $1700. Had 300 looks the first time with 11 Watchers and no bid. Ended the second listing early since it was pointless.

Had it listed on Craiglist also with useless time wasting questions. Received 1 time waster from AVS also.

When I say perfect: 7 Months old with 700 Hours on it with a photo proof of the Hours, Original Packaging, and the Receipt for the remaining Warranty if bought local.

I was going to upgrade to a 111 and there was a perfect panel here that I was breaking in. Could not have both so the 111 went back to BB. Can honestly say it was a very tough decision for me.

Had the 1150 professionally calibrated since it was a no brainer. If I was willing to take a $1000 hit on depreciation it would not hurt to pay $400 for a calibration if I was keeping it. I am a firm believer in calibration now since the calibration elevated the 1150 to a jaw dropper.

Would strongly suggest that you do everything you can to keep the 1150 and get it calibrated.


David

DJLEC-thanks for the input-I am inclined to keep the Pioneer 1150. Did the calibration really make that much difference in the overall picture quality?
I have been using the reference settings recommended by D-Nice. When I first started reading info on AVS Forum, people recommended not getting your tv calibrated because of too many variables affecting the picture, particularly the different HD feeds-is this true or do you think I would see a nice difference in my picture if calibrated. Thanks Dave.
post #17146 of 17538
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surf1244 View Post

When I first started reading info on AVS Forum, people recommended not getting your tv calibrated because of too many variables affecting the picture, particularly the different HD feeds-is this true or do you think I would see a nice difference in my picture if calibrated. Thanks Dave.

Other people have reported their experience with professional calibration. To read their comments use the link at the bottom of my post.
post #17147 of 17538
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surf1244 View Post

DJLEC-thanks for the input-I am inclined to keep the Pioneer 1150. Did the calibration really make that much difference in the overall picture quality?
I have been using the reference settings recommended by D-Nice. When I first started reading info on AVS Forum, people recommended not getting your tv calibrated because of too many variables affecting the picture, particularly the different HD feeds-is this true or do you think I would see a nice difference in my picture if calibrated. Thanks Dave.

Dave,

Htwaits is providing a very nice service here with the calibration reports.

You can find mine if you click his link, scroll down to post 2, and look for; Pioneer Elite Pro 8G(1365 x 768) and click on Robert Busch for DJLEC.

Yes, the calibration did make that much difference.

I am not sure where you read it was not recommended since D-Nice recommends calibration also. D-Nice provides an amazing service to us all but his settings are not tailored to the room.

David
post #17148 of 17538
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJLEC View Post

Dave,

Htwaits is providing a very nice service here with the calibration reports.

You can find mine if you click his link, scroll down to post 2, and look for; Pioneer Elite Pro 8G(1365 x 768) and click on Robert Busch for DJLEC.

Yes, the calibration did make that much difference.

I am not sure where you read it was not recommended since D-Nice recommends calibration also. D-Nice provides an amazing service to us all but his settings are not tailored to the room.

David

Thanks Djlec&Htwaits-I will look at the post you have recommended regarding the benefits of calibration. I don't remember what AVS member it was , but they were pretty adamant about not spending the extra money to calibrate since the High Def feeds vary so much which would discount the value of the calibration.

One last question, on a scale of 1-10, if my present picture is a 5, after calibration what would the number increase to base on you experiences? Thanks for your input!
post #17149 of 17538
I'm sure calibration is noted to be more for Blu-ray sources which will still translate into better grayscale for HD feeds.
post #17150 of 17538
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surf1244 View Post

... they were pretty adamant about not spending the extra money to calibrate since the High Def feeds vary so much which would discount the value of the calibration...

"They" were right about the variation in the quality of the source material. However, as b_scott pointed out, that does not negate the value of a calibration. Getting the grayscale right will greatly benefit your picture, even when the original source is not all that it should be.
post #17151 of 17538
in the last 2 weeks the tvgos on bith the 7g and and the 8g lsot listing 4 or 5 times....good new: it always came back the following morning.

another annoying things that is happening frequently now is---

it seems that the cablecard gives my cable co full control of the pios- every once in while they do a so called "emergency test" during which i the only thing i can watch is their ch 14. no matter what input or ch i select, the tv switches back to ant A, ch 14. i did not post on this earlier as in the past 3 yrs it happened (or i suffered) only a couple of times and the duration was few minutes. now, it is happening every other day lasting for an hour to over 3 hours.

have you experienced this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duck05 View Post

It is very odd on the timing of all this turmoil leading up to the "over the air" change to digital (which was supposed to not even impact cable at all) broadcasts - curious.

And, oh by the way, my 6010FD's guide came back today - impacted only 1 1/2 days this time.....(and did not think it would recover so soon...).

Quote:
Originally Posted by HarrisonS View Post

So far, the TVGOS on my 150FD is still functioning as always. I did a rescan of the channels yesterday, just in case there had been any changes in the channels. In my area there were none, except for a few more subchannels. The TVGOS and its settings were not affected by the rescan at all. I certainly hope it does continue to work after June 12!
post #17152 of 17538
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surf1244 View Post

Thanks Djlec&Htwaits-I will look at the post you have recommended regarding the benefits of calibration. I don't remember what AVS member it was , but they were pretty adamant about not spending the extra money to calibrate since the High Def feeds vary so much which would discount the value of the calibration.

One last question, on a scale of 1-10, if my present picture is a 5, after calibration what would the number increase to base on you experiences? Thanks for your input!

Dave,

My calibrator whom had the proper equipment indicated that I was 60% of potential before calibration. I belive this after watching very familiar movies.

Please note that I darkened the room since I mostly watch at night, watch Blu Ray only, and the Calibrator had the right equipment. The Konica/Minolta camera he had was amazing.

You will find Calibrators in your area hopefully through this forum under the Calibration thread.


David
post #17153 of 17538
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJLEC View Post

Dave,

My calibrator whom had the proper equipment indicated that I was 60% of potential before calibration. I belive this after watching very familiar movies.

Please note that I darkened the room since I mostly watch at night, watch Blu Ray only, and the Calibrator had the right equipment. The Konica/Minolta camera he had was amazing.

You will find Calibrators in your area hopefully through this forum under the Calibration thread.


David

David-thanks for your input. When you said you watch blue ray only you mean as far as movies, but of course you still watch tv too. Is the improvement in overall picture quality related to blue ray only or are you also including watching sporting events like football, basketball too.

so your recommending that I use a calibrator who uses the Konica/Minolta camera-how long does this take to complete? Thank you for your valuable input!
post #17154 of 17538
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJLEC View Post

Dave,

My calibrator whom had the proper equipment indicated that I was 60% of potential before calibration. I belive this after watching very familiar movies.

Did you have your panel on D-Nice settings before, with service menu offsets?
post #17155 of 17538
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surf1244 View Post

David-thanks for your input. When you said you watch blue ray only you mean as far as movies, but of course you still watch tv too. Is the improvement in overall picture quality related to blue ray only or are you also including watching sporting events like football, basketball too.

so your recommending that I use a calibrator who uses the Konica/Minolta camera-how long does this take to complete? Thank you for your valuable input!

I do not watch regular TV or have cable.

Blu Ray movies only but I do have my reference scenes to judge and see a difference. Even the wife noticed a difference since she has her favorites also.

No quote for the type of camera he used other than to say make sure you go to the Calibrators forum and find someone that has invested in the equipment before hire.


David
post #17156 of 17538
Quote:
Originally Posted by b_scott View Post

Did you have your panel on D-Nice settings before, with service menu offsets?

I do not know what you mean by service menu offsets.

Control Cal was not used previously on this set and I have tried different settings from the forum.


David
post #17157 of 17538
Can someone please link the post with D-Nice's SM offsets? I've tried searching the thread but can't seem to find them. And yes, I know it's possible to have overlooked. Thanks in Aadvance.
post #17158 of 17538
D-Nice's SM offsets and settings to use on non-elites when in User mode and Mid color temperature:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post13001984
post #17159 of 17538
At one time, I followed this thread every day and I think I remember a post(s) regarding the ability to permanently change the default gray side bars to black when viewing standard def. However, I think you had to go into the service menu to do it. Am I correct? Can someone who's done it comment on whether it is an improvement.

Found it on Pg3
post #17160 of 17538
Quote:
Originally Posted by bvh View Post

At one time, I followed this thread every day and I think I remember a post(s) regarding the ability to permanently change the default gray side bars to black when viewing standard def. However, I think you had to go into the service menu to do it. Am I correct? Can someone who's done it comment on whether it is an improvement.

Found it on Pg3

You don't have to do that. The gray side bars are optional, and can easily be diasbled or enabled from the regular menu, not the service menu. It is a very bad idea to turn them off, however, since they help protect against burn-in, and are unobtrusive.
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