AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › The Official Pioneer 8G KURO Owner's Discussions Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Official Pioneer 8G KURO Owner's Discussions Thread - Page 326

post #9751 of 17517
I plan on purchasing a 5080HD soon and want to get the cables purchased.

I will have a Xbox 360 (original Premium version), Scientific Atlanta 8300HD cable box, and plan on purchasing an Onkyo TX-SR605 A/V Receiver.

What is the best thing to do:
1) Run all inputs to 5080 then output audio
-or-
2) Run all inputs to AVR then output video

What cables do I need:
1) Monoprice 1.3a 6ft HDMI cable from cable box to 5080/AVR
2) Monoprice 1.3a 6ft HDMI cable from 5080/AVR to 5080/AVR
3) I don't know what the optimal outputs are from the Xbox 360? Is it the video component cables to the 5080/AVR and a digital coax audio cable or optical toslink audio cable to the AVR?

Thanks
post #9752 of 17517
Man .. Now that ive had a chance to play more games on my 4280HD I gotta say this is the best ive ever seen PS3 / Xbox360 look on any TV ..the picture quality is just amazing.. I started playing Bioshock and it looked so much better than my previous XBR960 CRT that I started a new game just to see it all over again. It's that good.


And this is probably a no brainer but for the heck of it I tested 360 on Component, VGA and HDMI and HDMI had the best results.
post #9753 of 17517
Quote:
Originally Posted by robbymartin7 View Post

I plan on purchasing a 5080HD soon and want to get the cables purchased.

I will have a Xbox 360 (original Premium version), Scientific Atlanta 8300HD cable box, and plan on purchasing an Onkyo TX-SR605 A/V Receiver.

What is the best thing to do:
1) Run all inputs to 5080 then output audio
-or-
2) Run all inputs to AVR then output video

What cables do I need:
1) Monoprice 1.3a 6ft HDMI cable from cable box to 5080/AVR
2) Monoprice 1.3a 6ft HDMI cable from 5080/AVR to 5080/AVR
3) I don't know what the optimal outputs are from the Xbox 360? Is it the video component cables to the 5080/AVR and a digital coax audio cable or optical toslink audio cable to the AVR?

Thanks

run all to avr... avr to tv...

you don't need the 1.3a cables. the regular ones will be fine.
post #9754 of 17517
10th St.

I'm thinking you should download the user manual from the pioneer website.
*I can tell you what the HMG on my HDP-BD1 does, but I don't know what the HMG on the equipment you're planning on using does. Yes, mine has a slideshow feature, and the next/prev buttons on the remote work to move between slides, but I don't recall if you can set the time between slides. In any event, the manual should tell you these things.
post #9755 of 17517
I'm getting in a 5080 in a couple days. Plan on wall mount with tilt. Looking into generic 37-63" universal mount, but believe I read somewhere that Pios need an adapter plate. Is this true? or should a newer universal mount be sufficient? Any help/suggestions appreciated.
post #9756 of 17517
I'm considering the purchase of a Pioneer 6010, but since its such and expensive and fragile piece of equipment, I'm wondering what kind of mounting options buyers who live in areas prone to earthquake may have explored.

I've read through most of what I can find here on AVS, (over the course of many, many, many hours...), as well as spending days looking at the usual online sources and I'm beginning to have serious doubts about finding a viable solution.

From what I've been reading, it looks like there are generally two ways to go:
plant the panel on a dedicated TV stand from companies like Bela, Sanus, and hope for the best, or go with a wall mount from some company like Sanus , Omnimount, and Peerless.

A TV stand would be the way I'd prefer to go, but it seems difficult to find something earthquake-safe that will work with my budget and space. I'm not picky about component shelving options and have no center channel speaker requirements. I'm looking for something in a modern style, yet that doesn't completely depend on a huge plate of glass to support the panel itself, (glass for ancillary component shelving doesn't bother me). Aside from the obvious possibility of the top shelf shattering in an earthquake, the glass also precludes any bolt-type attachment of the panel to the stand. Also, although some owners simply attach wires from the panel to the wall, it seems to me that if the stand were to move out in a quake while the plasma remains tethered to the wall, that I'd be completely SOL.

I have seen a few models that would be ideal in principal, like the OmniMount G3FP or the Sanus PFFP2, since by floating the panel on a post built into the stand, they solidly integrate the plasma into the support structure. But the max panel size on these type of products cap out at 50", and most models seem to place the TV fairly high up in the air, whereas I'm looking for something that will keep the panel at a relatively low profile for comfortable viewing.

Using a wall mount at first glance seems to be the solution here, but it also introduces a couple of other questions. If I were to use a flat wall mount, then the only adjustment to the panel's viewing angle would be in the tilt, which I find a little limiting. But if I were to use an articulating arm mount, like the OmniMount UCL-X - Wishbone Series, then the added weight of the mount to an already heavy television could, according to some opinions I've read, possibly buckle the wall. And how the whole shebang would hold up under the stresses of a moderate earthquake is anyone's guess. I'm not an expert on wall studs and load bearing limits, and I don't want to become one the hard way.

At this point I'm beginning to consider contracting a welder to create some kind of basic steel plate stand or pedestal. The "industrial" look would be fine, but the downside here would be the guess work involved in specking out a design to properly support the TV, and the possible added time and expense. I don't rule this route out, but it seems that with all the 60"+ panels that have been sold over the years, that there must be an "out of the box" solution somewhere.

If any 6010 owners out there have already been down this road, I'd be grateful for any sage words of advice!
post #9757 of 17517
Quote:
Originally Posted by quixote View Post

If any 6010 owners out there have already been down this road, I'd be grateful for any sage words of advice!

Not a 6010 owner but I have two words of advice: earthquake insurance
post #9758 of 17517
Quote:
Originally Posted by quixote View Post

If any 6010 owners out there have already been down this road, I'd be grateful for any sage words of advice!

I live in Silicon Valley and purchased the OmniMount UCL-X for my 6010. Shortly after installing everything we had a mild tremor hit us and I was sitting watching the TV. I have my TV extending out at close to 24" and the whole thing was very stable. I now know that during an earthquake the TV will be the least of my worries. I probably went a little in the direction of overkill since I mounted the TV relatively low. I have the center channel speaker hanging from the OmniMount just below the TV. When fully extended the bottom of the speaker is about 3" above the top of a low profile Salamander mount.
LL
LL
post #9759 of 17517
Quote:
Originally Posted by robbymartin7 View Post

I plan on purchasing a 5080HD soon and want to get the cables purchased.

I will have a Xbox 360 (original Premium version), Scientific Atlanta 8300HD cable box, and plan on purchasing an Onkyo TX-SR605 A/V Receiver.

What is the best thing to do:
1) Run all inputs to 5080 then output audio
-or-
2) Run all inputs to AVR then output video

What cables do I need:
1) Monoprice 1.3a 6ft HDMI cable from cable box to 5080/AVR
2) Monoprice 1.3a 6ft HDMI cable from 5080/AVR to 5080/AVR
3) I don't know what the optimal outputs are from the Xbox 360? Is it the video component cables to the 5080/AVR and a digital coax audio cable or optical toslink audio cable to the AVR?

Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

run all to avr... avr to tv...

you don't need the 1.3a cables. the regular ones will be fine.

Do I buy a digital coax audio cable or optical toslink audio cable to connect the Xbox 360 original premium edition to the AVR?
post #9760 of 17517
Quote:
Originally Posted by BasementBob View Post

10th St.

I'm thinking you should download the user manual from the pioneer website.
*I can tell you what the HMG on my HDP-BD1 does, but I don't know what the HMG on the equipment you're planning on using does. Yes, mine has a slideshow feature, and the next/prev buttons on the remote work to move between slides, but I don't recall if you can set the time between slides. In any event, the manual should tell you these things.

I tried, but I think I have to be a registered owner. ..
post #9761 of 17517
Quote:
Originally Posted by robbymartin7 View Post

Do I buy a digital coax audio cable or optical toslink audio cable to connect the Xbox 360 original premium edition to the AVR?

either.
post #9762 of 17517
As of yesterday afternoon, I am the proud owner of a PRO150FD, and a VSX92TXH . And the old maxim of "new hardware requires new hardware" is becoming pretty evident. I used to watch DVD's through my XBOX (the old one, not the 360), but that just doesn't seem appropriate anymore, and I would like to get a stand-alone DVD player.

In keeping with the Pioneer Elite theme, I was looking at the DV-48AV, which offers 1080p upscaling, but now I'm wondering if that isn't overkill. Both the receiver and the monitor obviously already do 1080p upscaling, so is it redundant and wasteful to splurge for the high end DVD player as well? Could I get away with a cheaper model, and if so, what would you recommend? Or are there advantages toward going with a higher end DVD player?

All input is appreciated, and thanks in advance for your help.
post #9763 of 17517
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10th St. View Post

I tried, but I think I have to be a registered owner. ..

You don't need to be a registered owner to see the manuals, just a registered user on the website. It's free to sign up. I registered a long time ago to check out manuals of AV Receivers.
post #9764 of 17517
Poll now posted. (I'm not a moderator -- I just read the FAQ on creating a poll).
post #9765 of 17517
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10th St. View Post

Not a 6010 owner but I have two words of advice: earthquake insurance

Earth quake insurance is only for catastrophic losses. Deductibles are generally quite high..many 10s of thousands of dollars...50K or more depending on your home's value.
post #9766 of 17517
Quote:
Originally Posted by quixote View Post

...I have seen a few models that would be ideal in principal, like the OmniMount G3FP or the Sanus PFFP2, since by floating the panel on a post built into the stand, they solidly integrate the plasma into the support structure. But the max panel size on these type of products cap out at 50", and most models seem to place the TV fairly high up in the air, whereas I'm looking for something that will keep the panel at a relatively low profile for comfortable viewing.

I have the PFFP2 for my 50" 1150HD, and I live in California. Unfortunately my unit is right in front of a window, so I don't have many options to help brace the TV pillar to the wall. I will tell you even with a 50", the stand would be very prone to vibrations from an earthquake and I don't have much confidence it would survive.

The other day I was cleaning the screen and even my gentle cleaning motions started to resonate with the panel and it began to shake more and more. I would *NOT* put a 60" TV on that stand. It would certainly go low enough, but the stand would be so top heavy that I wouldn't sleep well at night.
post #9767 of 17517
Quote:
Originally Posted by robbymartin7 View Post

Do I buy a digital coax audio cable or optical toslink audio cable to connect the Xbox 360 original premium edition to the AVR?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

either.

After reading this I went and checked my 360. It doesn't have a digital coax output, just the optical. Do some of them have a digital coax output?
post #9768 of 17517
Quote:
Originally Posted by yngdiego View Post

I have the PFFP2 for my 50" 1150HD, and I live in California. Unfortunately my unit is right in front of a window, so I don't have many options to help brace the TV pillar to the wall. I will tell you even with a 50", the stand would be very prone to vibrations from an earthquake and I don't have much confidence it would survive.

The other day I was cleaning the screen and even my gentle cleaning motions started to resonate with the panel and it began to shake more and more. I would *NOT* put a 60" TV on that stand. It would certainly go low enough, but the stand would be so top heavy that I wouldn't sleep well at night.


Thanks for the info, yngdiego. No way would I attempt to slap a 60" panel on one of those, but given the quality of mass produced consumer goods these days, I'm disappointed but not so surprised to hear that the PFFP2s are questionable even for 50" models. Its this kind of story that makes me really cautious about coming up with a good mounting solution. These little toys cost way too much to give chance any more say in the matter than absolutely necessary.
post #9769 of 17517
Quote:
Originally Posted by miata View Post

I live in Silicon Valley and purchased the OmniMount UCL-X for my 6010. Shortly after installing everything we had a mild tremor hit us and I was sitting watching the TV. I have my TV extending out at close to 24" and the whole thing was very stable. I now know that during an earthquake the TV will be the least of my worries. I probably went a little in the direction of overkill since I mounted the TV relatively low. I have the center channel speaker hanging from the OmniMount just below the TV. When fully extended the bottom of the speaker is about 3" above the top of a low profile Salamander mount.

Thanks for the pics of your set up, miata. Looks pretty sweet to me! Did you have any issues in mating the UCL-X to the panel? I don't remember if it was this mount in particular, but I think I remember reading that some people were having problems in this regard.

Based on your success I think I'll look into what I've got going on inside my wall a little more thoroughly since this approach might resolve some of my concerns pretty neatly.
post #9770 of 17517
Quote:
Originally Posted by quixote View Post

Thanks for the pics of your set up, miata. Looks pretty sweet to me! Did you have any issues in mating the UCL-X to the panel? I don't remember if it was this mount in particular, but I think I remember reading that some people were having problems in this regard.

Based on your success I think I'll look into what I've got going on inside my wall a little more thoroughly since this approach might resolve some of my concerns pretty neatly.

No problems at all. I think the 6010 required that just about every dimension of the mount to be fully extended, but I didn't have to do anything out of the ordinary. The kit included great a great mounting template. If you do this yourself you will be drilling some serious holes into the studs and need to feel comfortable with finding studs. I actually mounted the display on the table mount and had a friend come over to lift it to the wall mount -- then removed the table mount. The speaker bracket (sold separately) was also plug and play. If you are interested in going this route and have a Costco membership you should check out their web site.
post #9771 of 17517
Miata, what cabinet is that you're using? It's really nice looking.
I can't quite make out what is between the cabinet and the TV - I don't think it's the mount?

I get my 6010 tomorrow. The installer will hook up my stuff.
1) cable box (HD)/dvr
2) PS3
3) VHS player (until I transfer over tapes to dvd)
4) audio receiver

The receiver is older so no hdmi connections.

How many hdmi cables will I need?

I'll check for:
1) dead pixels
2) blotching
3) buzzing
4) cracked screen

Anything else? (I'm so excited)
post #9772 of 17517
I have a question, I own the Pioneer Elite PRO-110FD, how many of you keep the PDP on standby mode and how many of you completely shut it down after each use, is one recomended over the other, and how many watts does it use when in standby mode, thanks in advance.
post #9773 of 17517
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10th St. View Post

(not listing specific prices - hope that meets the forum rules)

I've seen some prices on this set that are significantly reduced from MSRP. Saving a couple of grand (when you factor in no sales tax) is very attractive. However, I'm wary of buying on-line and having no recourse if something goes wrong.

One B&M rep told me that all those on-line prices come with no warranty and are not authorized by Pio to re-sell. Is this true?

I would like to support local sellers - but on a TV this expensive - the cost savings are huge. Any thoughts on buying on-line versus local are appreciated.

Local is of course safer, but I bought via forum sponsor Axxis Audio and everything was tremendous from customer service down to delivery...Authorized Pio dealer...saved a lot of money
post #9774 of 17517
Quote:
Originally Posted by quixote View Post

I'm considering the purchase of a Pioneer 6010, but since its such and expensive and fragile piece of equipment, I'm wondering what kind of mounting options buyers who live in areas prone to earthquake may have explored.

I've read through most of what I can find here on AVS, (over the course of many, many, many hours...), as well as spending days looking at the usual online sources and I'm beginning to have serious doubts about finding a viable solution.

From what I've been reading, it looks like there are generally two ways to go:
plant the panel on a dedicated TV stand from companies like Bela, Sanus, and hope for the best, or go with a wall mount from some company like Sanus , Omnimount, and Peerless.

A TV stand would be the way I'd prefer to go, but it seems difficult to find something earthquake-safe that will work with my budget and space. I'm not picky about component shelving options and have no center channel speaker requirements. I'm looking for something in a modern style, yet that doesn't completely depend on a huge plate of glass to support the panel itself, (glass for ancillary component shelving doesn't bother me). Aside from the obvious possibility of the top shelf shattering in an earthquake, the glass also precludes any bolt-type attachment of the panel to the stand. Also, although some owners simply attach wires from the panel to the wall, it seems to me that if the stand were to move out in a quake while the plasma remains tethered to the wall, that I'd be completely SOL.

I have seen a few models that would be ideal in principal, like the OmniMount G3FP or the Sanus PFFP2, since by floating the panel on a post built into the stand, they solidly integrate the plasma into the support structure. But the max panel size on these type of products cap out at 50", and most models seem to place the TV fairly high up in the air, whereas I'm looking for something that will keep the panel at a relatively low profile for comfortable viewing.

Using a wall mount at first glance seems to be the solution here, but it also introduces a couple of other questions. If I were to use a flat wall mount, then the only adjustment to the panel's viewing angle would be in the tilt, which I find a little limiting. But if I were to use an articulating arm mount, like the OmniMount UCL-X - Wishbone Series, then the added weight of the mount to an already heavy television could, according to some opinions I've read, possibly buckle the wall. And how the whole shebang would hold up under the stresses of a moderate earthquake is anyone's guess. I'm not an expert on wall studs and load bearing limits, and I don't want to become one the hard way.

At this point I'm beginning to consider contracting a welder to create some kind of basic steel plate stand or pedestal. The "industrial" look would be fine, but the downside here would be the guess work involved in specking out a design to properly support the TV, and the possible added time and expense. I don't rule this route out, but it seems that with all the 60"+ panels that have been sold over the years, that there must be an "out of the box" solution somewhere.

If any 6010 owners out there have already been down this road, I'd be grateful for any sage words of advice!

The 150 comes with straps and screws to attach tyo a stand...I'm guessing the 6010 does also?
post #9775 of 17517
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

HDMI is digital, and as long as the "noise level" of the cable run isn't two high, there is no difference between the lowest priced cables and the $199 version from Monster. Unless you are running the cable somewhere above 20' the results should be identical. Many people at AVS buy HDMI cables from Monoprice which is a forum sponsor.


Thanks htwaits. I have certainly found there to be very significant differences in digital audio cables, however - e.g., from transport to DAC. I'm wondering if people have actually done serious comparisons with video. Actually, given the newness and quality of the Kuros, I would think that differences might be revealed much more easily than before.

Any thoughts, maxdb? Since you had talked about the difference of component cables in an earlier post, I was hoping maybe you had compared HDMI cables.
post #9776 of 17517
I have worked with up to 50' runs with MonoPrice cables with no problems. I would stick with MonoPrice for HDMI unless your run exceeds 50' for HDMI. Then I would look at a different solution unless you can test the cable after installation and change it out easily. Products like this are an option for very long runs http://www.gefen.com/kvm/product.jsp?prod_id=4503.
post #9777 of 17517
Quote:
Originally Posted by aluni2230 View Post

comming from a Panny to a Kuro, all I can say is that the Kuro is a far superior set.

My Panny set up which was replaced by the much better Kuro (just to prove that I owned both types at my home) - first image is of the Panny and second is the new Kuro

Nice. I had the 50PH9UK before the 5080 and there is no doubt the kuro is better. I do have some disappointment though...

The 5080 blacks with little to no lighting appear to be a very dark gray...or a glowing black if you will. If I remember right, the panny was capable of producing blacks, in the dark, that looked pretty dark gray as well.

I think with ambient lighting and normal lighting conditions, the kuro takes the cake as the set does not reflect light the same way. Heck, with the panny and kuro turned off, the panny looks gray in comparison! It's due to the light reflection in the panny and excellent filtering in the kuro.

So the real test is comparing a good Panny in totally dark conditions with a Kuro in completely dark conditions. I think you'd be surprised how close the blacks are. It's not as big a difference as most might think.

Of course I'd still go with the Kuro. I'm just making an observation as I've now seen what the industrial Panny can do in comparison with the 5080 Kuro in a pitch black room.

So now the question is...do the elite kuros noticeably produce a deeper black than the 5080 in completely dark conditions?
post #9778 of 17517
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10th St. View Post

(not listing specific prices - hope that meets the forum rules)

I've seen some prices on this set that are significantly reduced from MSRP. Saving a couple of grand (when you factor in no sales tax) is very attractive. However, I'm wary of buying on-line and having no recourse if something goes wrong.

One B&M rep told me that all those on-line prices come with no warranty and are not authorized by Pio to re-sell. Is this true?

I would like to support local sellers - but on a TV this expensive - the cost savings are huge. Any thoughts on buying on-line versus local are appreciated.

For Elite, phone sales are different than internet sales. Really pleased with John Marty at AxxisAudio a forum sponsor and Elite Dealer.
post #9779 of 17517
umr

I posted this before but did not get an answer; then i wrote Pioneer but, again, no answer; i hope you can answer this for me:

When i first used my Oppo 981HD, i connected it to the Pro 950HD through HDMI and then tried through S-Video with a 6 ft cable and found that deinterlacing and upscaling were better with the latter connection sending 480i to the panel.


Then i rearranged the room setup and had to use 15ft. cables.

Using this longer S-Video cable gives me a problem: on color material, the image is black and white, no color, and superimposed on those images are interference patterns, like moiré, at an angle of around 30 degrees, and those patterns are in color. At my seating distance of about 8' it looks red, but if i come closer i can see all primary colors. The moiré-like lines are about 1/3" wide.
B\\W material plays fine.

All my cables are bundled together: HDMI, S-Video and RG6 coax for audio.
Power line cords are separate and do not run parallel to signal cables.

Maybe the problem is caused by the longer S-video cable, or it could be something else altogether which i can't figure out.
post #9780 of 17517
Quote:
Originally Posted by craig_wagner View Post

After reading this I went and checked my 360. It doesn't have a digital coax output, just the optical. Do some of them have a digital coax output?

optical will be fine.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Plasma Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › The Official Pioneer 8G KURO Owner's Discussions Thread