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The Official Pioneer 8G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 361

post #10801 of 12870
Thanks Finn360
post #10802 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by FINN360 View Post

My 8300 is a DVR box so it has two tuners which allows it to have the built in PIP. I don't have any experience with your box but if it doesn't have built in PIP just attach a splitter and run a second coax to your Antenna 1 on the TV. You don't need a second box or cable card unless you want your premium channels on both tuners. The TV's QAM tuner will pull in your basic channels and your basic HD channels.

Not with FiOS. Plugging the coax cable directly into Ant A will not work without first going through a STB or using a CC.
post #10803 of 12870
Ok I understand that but he doesn't have FiOS, just Time Warner cable. The splitter method is cheap and works fine.
post #10804 of 12870
Man, after a month, the buzzing really is driving me through the roof.
post #10805 of 12870
I got a nice, small pair of powered speakers and sub for our 6010, and was feeding them through the headphone jack, which automatically cuts out the console speakers. What we wanted was all speakers working together without any delays, and all controlled by the remote. So, I got some adapters and wired the extra speaker setup out of the analog audio out RCA jacks. Thought all would be dandy, but those outputs are apparently fixed volume and independent of the volume setting on the TV. Why????

Anyway, after failing to find anything in the Home Menu that would change this, I figure there must be a switch in the Service Menu. Can anyone point the way?

Thanks in advance.
post #10806 of 12870
To Ken Ross and others, has anyone tried Harkness's Method on their Kuros.

I bought a Kuro Elite Pro-1150 a few weeks ago and have been using Dnice's settings. It gives a faithful image but rarely tricks my eye into believing that I'm there. I have tried some quick adjustments, but I always seemed to make the picture worse.

Before I go down the rabbit hole of infinite set adjustments, I want to know if there is light at the end of the tunnel. An image so realistic that it tricks the eye.

http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/...9&page=1&pp=60

Any help is appreciated. Coming from a Sony Trinitron CRT, this plasma thing seems overwhelming.

Rob


Kuro Elite Pro-1150
PlayStation 3 HDMI
Motorola DCT6412 III HDMI from Cox Cable
post #10807 of 12870
i have my 5010 set at:

AV: Movie
Contrast: 35
Bright: 0
Color: 0
Tint: 1 Red
Sharp: -8
Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema
Film Mode: Advance
Text Opt.: Off
Pic. Det: mid
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Enhancer: 2
Gamma: 3
Color Det.
Color Temp: Mid
CTI: Off
Noise Reduction: Low

Service Menu Offsets:

R-High +3
G-High 0 (no change)
B-High -10
R-Low -12
G-Low 0 (no change)
B-Low -13

i've tweaked it to these settings since this pic, so it's even better now, but this was pretty good:



Note - there is a darkened sky above them (HP: Order of the Phoenix)

post #10808 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by greg du jour View Post

I got a nice, small pair of powered speakers and sub for our 6010, and was feeding them through the headphone jack, which automatically cuts out the console speakers. What we wanted was all speakers working together without any delays, and all controlled by the remote. So, I got some adapters and wired the extra speaker setup out of the analog audio out RCA jacks. Thought all would be dandy, but those outputs are apparently fixed volume and independent of the volume setting on the TV. Why????

Anyway, after failing to find anything in the Home Menu that would change this, I figure there must be a switch in the Service Menu. Can anyone point the way? Thanks in advance.

yes tne audio outs are fixed. you would need to ask pioneer why but i think other manuf do the same as well.

i guess they expect you to send it to a sss/avr and control the volume with it and not use the tv speakers at the same time.

if you want to control both at the same time you could get a remote with a marco that controls both the sss/avr and tv volume at the same time.
post #10809 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by javajunky View Post

To Ken Ross and others, has anyone tried Harkness's Method on their Kuros.

I bought a Kuro Elite Pro-1150 a few weeks ago and have been using Dnice's settings. It gives a faithful image but rarely tricks my eye into believing that I'm there. I have tried some quick adjustments, but I always seemed to make the picture worse.

Before I go down the rabbit hole of infinite set adjustments, I want to know if there is light at the end of the tunnel. An image so realistic that it tricks the eye.

http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/...9&page=1&pp=60

Any help is appreciated. Coming from a Sony Trinitron CRT, this plasma thing seems overwhelming.

Rob


Kuro Elite Pro-1150
PlayStation 3 HDMI
Motorola DCT6412 III HDMI from Cox Cable

Hi,

I think all will agree that D-Nice's settings provide a very good starting point.

No need to be overwhelmed though, using the same 5 basic settings, every tv that I've adjusted using the Steaming Rat method seems to follow the same basic rules...so starting with a "properly calibrated" tv...

White level needs to go down a few clicks (-3 to 5), as white objects, sunlight reflection is usually too bright.

Black level needs to go up a few clicks (+ 1 to 3), as you don't want to see the "black hole" appear.

Color down a good number of clicks, as objects in real life don't "glow" (-4 or more).

Sharpness - down to a level that removes any edge enhancement (-15 for non-Elites)

Tint - unchanged

Hope that helps.
post #10810 of 12870
i find that -15 is just too soft. things aren't naturally that soft. when i switch back and forth i can't handle the fuzziness. so i use -10 to -8
post #10811 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ1150 View Post

I ended up finding this thread where D-Nice posted his history for the 8G Elite settings using a Moto STB. I updated my reference settings with these and boosted contrast to 32. The resulting PQ was an improvement and I am pretty happy with the results as the whites are much improved and the picture is not as gray/dark. I have a Moto QIP 6200-2 which from your post definitely sounds like a model D-Nice did not use to determine his reference settings. I did not realize the plasma would need to be re-calibrated each time one gets a different model STB. This technology stuff can be very frustrating. I also assume I would need a new calibration each time I get a new AVR or DVD player.

Russ, which set of setting did you wind up using?

Yeah, I had the SD 2708 box first, and with D-Nice's 1150 settings at the top of this thread the picture was great. When I got the 6416 it was not quite as good.
post #10812 of 12870
here's a pic of my newest tweaks (camera still picks up more red than is in the actual picture, but it's closer to accurate):





post #10813 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ1150 View Post

I ended up finding this thread where D-Nice posted his history for the 8G Elite settings using a Moto STB. I updated my reference settings with these and boosted contrast to 32. The resulting PQ was an improvement and I am pretty happy with the results as the whites are much improved and the picture is not as gray/dark. I have a Moto QIP 6200-2 which from your post definitely sounds like a model D-Nice did not use to determine his reference settings. I did not realize the plasma would need to be re-calibrated each time one gets a different model STB. This technology stuff can be very frustrating. I also assume I would need a new calibration each time I get a new AVR or DVD player.

I found that post as well and tried applying the settings on my 1150 & Moto. The issue is what exact Moto STB model and which of the 4 different settings to use!!! Although having a new Moto DHC3416 I haven't find yet an appropriate "perfect" setting but trying out a combination of the last 2 (the most recent updates posted) showed some improvements over the certain picture darkness (in Pure) and grayer whites. I still find the picture exhibiting certain yellow hue (D-Nice refers it as green tint issue) so I guess we'll have to wait until someone tackles this more precisely.
post #10814 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyptony View Post

Russ, which set of setting did you wind up using?

Yeah, I had the SD 2708 box first, and with D-Nice's 1150 settings at the top of this thread the picture was great. When I got the 6416 it was not quite as good.

The last set of settings dated 12/22/2007. I still think the CC input provides a crisper more 3D picture. I wonder if an ISF calibration can get the STB input to be as good or better.
post #10815 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by ML237 View Post

I found that post as well and tried applying the settings on my 1150 & Moto. The issue is what exact Moto STB model and which of the 4 different settings to use!!! Although having a new Moto DHC3416 I haven't find yet an appropriate "perfect" setting but trying out a combination of the last 2 (the most recent updates posted) showed some improvements over the certain picture darkness (in Pure) and grayer whites. I still find the picture exhibiting certain yellow hue (D-Nice refers it as green tint issue) so I guess we'll have to wait until someone tackles this more precisely.

Let's hope D-Nice will be willing to tackle this more precisely as it is an issue that will become more prevalent as FiOS, and in turn the Moto STB's, become more widely available.
post #10816 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ1150 View Post

Let's hope D-Nice will be willing to tackle this more precisely as it is an issue that will become more prevalent as FiOS, and in turn the Moto STB's, become more widely available.

From your mouth into God/D-Nice's ear!

I was initially happy to have the DHC6416-II as there was more settings for those online, but since I got my 1150 and needed a HDMI ported STB the Cable guy brought me this new all digital DCH3416 which he claimed was the latest (dual tuner) model they are installing.

Ross you said you are using the last set of settings with yours, I tried the last set of settings, but when comparing it with previous one I found the middle ground between them to be the best. I think I will retry them all over one more time to see what works best on my 3416 and post it back so others can compare with their ... who knows maybe we can figure something out collectively.
post #10817 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by briansemerick View Post

i have my 5010 set at:

AV: Movie
Contrast: 35
Bright: 0
Color: 0
Tint: 1 Red
Sharp: -8
Pro Adjust
Pure Cinema
Film Mode: Advance
Text Opt.: Off
Pic. Det: mid
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Enhancer: 2
Gamma: 3
Color Det.
Color Temp: Mid
CTI: Off
Noise Reduction: Low

Service Menu Offsets:

R-High +3
G-High 0 (no change)
B-High -10
R-Low -12
G-Low 0 (no change)
B-Low -13

i've tweaked it to these settings since this pic, so it's even better now, but this was pretty good:



Note - there is a darkened sky above them (HP: Order of the Phoenix)


That's pretty accurate IMO. Brian I see you are located in Chicago, are you perhaps using RCN Cable and if is it a Moto STB? If so are you settings the same for Cable and for BD/DVD inputs? If not those settings you have listed are those for STB or BD/DVD? Thanks
post #10818 of 12870
sorry ML, i use Comcast with a TivoHD (Cablecards)

i run everything into an Onkyo with HDMI then i output them to the TV with one HDMI. so everything is the same settings, i just use different AV presets for different things (Movie, Game, User, etc). here's one calibrated further from today:

post #10819 of 12870
Looks great Brian You're lucky using CC from everything I read I think that is more optimal solution then an generic Moto STB.

So you use each AV setting for different source?

I have it set up as:
USER - Daytime D-Nice settings for everything during the day
STANDARD - trying to set up a specific MOTO dedicated settings just for SD
GAME/DYNAMIC - too jacked up as they are out of box so really used for nothing but for occasional viewing of sports (mainly for that fake color effect )
MOVIE - combo of D-Nice D65 & Moto inclined settings for DVD and Cable movies
PURE - D-Nice D65 settings tweaked a bit for HD content

Now I was wondering when I ad the BD will I have to take one of these AV setting to dedicate it for BD viewing or will PURE will be sufficient as is?
Opinions welcome?
post #10820 of 12870
i use Movie mode almost exclusively, except on certain games (usually jack it up to Game mode for Halo since it's not realistic anyway)

i can't comment on different modes for different inputs too much since i don't do that. sorry!
post #10821 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by ML237 View Post



Ross you said you are using the last set of settings with yours, I tried the last set of settings, but when comparing it with previous one I found the middle ground between them to be the best. I think I will retry them all over one more time to see what works best on my 3416 and post it back so others can compare with their ... who knows maybe we can figure something out collectively.

I assume by 'previous one' you mean the settings preceding the ones from 12/22 in the same thread. I'll try your idea of using the middle ground between the two. I am still finding the PQ of the CC input to be superior to the STB. This is very frustrating as my audio feed is coming from the STB plus the fact that the CC does not allow two way communication (on demand movies) and there is not a channel guide. I had only purchased the CC to utilize PIP/PAP, so if I want to take advantage of the superior PQ for HD channels I have to set the STB on the same channel to get the audio. I am also wondering if it is even possible to get the same PQ out of the STB. This issue is really starting to be a downer.
post #10822 of 12870
cablecards don't decode anything, they just tell the box or TV that you get "these channels". if the PQ is better from that input it's becaue the tv or box they are in is decoding better. if it's in the TV, that's why - Kuro's are one of the better if not the best at picture quality from cable inputs.
post #10823 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by briansemerick View Post

cablecards don't decode anything, they just tell the box or TV that you get "these channels". if the PQ is better from that input it's becaue the tv or box they are in is decoding better. if it's in the TV, that's why - Kuro's are one of the better if not the best at picture quality from cable inputs.

So, to sum it up, I will never be able to get the STB input to match the CC PQ. Well that certainly SUCKS!!!
post #10824 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ1150 View Post

I assume by 'previous one' you mean the settings preceding the ones from 12/22 in the same thread. I'll try your idea of using the middle ground between the two.

Yup I wrote down the last 3 "updates" and tried each but none did "result" in perfect PQ for me so I just tried the middle between the last 2. To be honest I did that around a month ago so I will redue it again soon and post the results that I am getting with my DHC3416 (including some screen shots).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ1150 View Post

I am still finding the PQ of the CC input to be superior to the STB. This is very frustrating as my audio feed is coming from the STB plus the fact that the CC does not allow two way communication (on demand movies) and there is not a channel guide. I had only purchased the CC to utilize PIP/PAP, so if I want to take advantage of the superior PQ for HD channels I have to set the STB on the same channel to get the audio. I am also wondering if it is even possible to get the same PQ out of the STB. This issue is really starting to be a downer.

This is the exact reason that I choose not to utilize the CC myself as I would be loosing all these features as well the ability to use the convinience of the dual tuner DHC3416.

Quote:
Originally Posted by briansemerick View Post

cablecards don't decode anything, they just tell the box or TV that you get "these channels". if the PQ is better from that input it's becaue the tv or box they are in is decoding better. if it's in the TV, that's why - Kuro's are one of the better if not the best at picture quality from cable inputs.


That is what I understood as well from reading here and talking to different people. The misfortune is that I think it is due to superior processing/decoding of CC's by our Kuro's over the STB's. Bummer indeed.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ1150 View Post

So, to sum it up, I will never be able to get the STB input to match the CC PQ. Well that certainly SUCKS!!!

+1
post #10825 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by briansemerick View Post

i find that -15 is just too soft. things aren't naturally that soft. when i switch back and forth i can't handle the fuzziness. so i use -10 to -8

Me too. I use D-Nice's 110/150 settings, except I use -9 for sharpness.
post #10826 of 12870
I am running the break-in DVD on my new 1150HD. However, I am using the D-Nice reference settings rather than his break-in DVD settings. Is that OK?
post #10827 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro2 View Post

I am running the break-in DVD on my new 1150HD. However, I am using the D-Nice reference settings rather than his break-in DVD settings. Is that OK?

Yeah it's OK although you should use the Break-in DVD settings to fully maximize the aging of the phosphorous otherwise you are not fully utilizing the Break-In DVD procedure. What you shouldn't do (and what many people always ask if they can do) is use the exaturated break-In DVD settings for watching TV. Hope this helps.
post #10828 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro2 View Post

I am running the break-in DVD on my new 1150HD. However, I am using the D-Nice reference settings rather than his break-in DVD settings. Is that OK?

That's what I did, and it worked fine for me. I did it for a period of time longer than 150 hours. That let me watch TV, and movies without the worry that I would forget, and use the break-in settings with anything but the break-in DVD. That kind of mistake might cause problems.

If I've understood what D-Nice has written, the break-in settings with the break-in DVD produce fast and even wear. I think that he recently wrote that this procedure isn't related to avoiding IR or burn-in, but that it does allow for retaining the accuracy of calibration settings over a longer period of time. Also, D-Nice feels that using one set of calibration settings works better if the phosphors have been aged using his method. That should be an advantage for people using their receiver as a HDMI switch.
post #10829 of 12870
thanks. yeah, I was worried about using the break-in settings for regular TV watching by mistake, and the easiest solution is to just stick with the reference settings.
post #10830 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by briansemerick View Post

cablecards don't decode anything, they just tell the box or TV that you get "these channels". if the PQ is better from that input it's becaue the tv or box they are in is decoding better. if it's in the TV, that's why - Kuro's are one of the better if not the best at picture quality from cable inputs.

Now that I think about this I am a bit confused as I have the STB set to pass the resolution of 1080i and thus let the 1150 do the decoding to 768p. Thus, the STB must be doing something else to the signal quality before passing it on.
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