The Official Pioneer 8G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 382

Haven't been on the site in a very long time. Was very surprised, and delighted, to see new 1150 settings. I have absolutely *loved* the April 12 110/150 settings for my 110 - for a very long time.

D-Nice: would you recommend the new 1150 settings for the 110? Or will you be posting new 110/150 settings?

Thanks for all you do ! ! !

John

Can someone please direct me to D-Nice's service menu adjustment for the 5010, I can't seem to locate them. Thanks in advance .

Larone

What if I hav an 1150 hooked up to a PS3. Right now I have the PS3 outputting 1080p. Should I go into the PS3's settings when I watch a standard DVD and change the resolution to 480i?

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think the answer would be to leave it at 1080p, as the PS3 does not send out an un-altered 480i signal like a player such as the Oppo 980 does.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=11427

I recall that the non-elite RGB settings were the same for 5080 and 5010. According to D-Nice, both are calibrated with the same tolerances. Or something like that.

^^^Thanks. I really appeciate it .

Larone

My Oppo allows 3 Color Space selections;

1) YCbCr 4,4,4,4
2) YCbCr 4,2,2,4
3) RGB

Which should I use?

A_C

5080HD being delivered today. I'm all set and have no rookie(repeat) questions for you guys except for an opinion question. I'm going to do the 150hr burn in for sure, but after that finishes I wonder if I should use the reference settings or just get right into the posted SM offsets BEFORE even getting used to this TV? Why not start this TV off correctly right from the start? Thoughts?

You should be using 1 or 2 because almost all movie content is encoded natively using YCbCr.

For reference, my HD-DVD player puts out 4,2,2,4 and my PS3 uses 4,4,4,4. They both look great and Pioneer supports both. I am not sure what the technical difference is. It might be similiar to Video RGB (16-235) and PC RGB (0-255). But almost all video sources are encoded using Video (Limited) RGB. In theory, your player would switch to the correct mode based on the content. Then the Pioneer set to auto HDMI would switch to the correct encoding standard.

It's 150hr break-in. (not 150hr burn in, )

You can use the reference and SM offsets at any time. The only restriction is to use the Break-in Settings ONLY with the Break-in DVD. So you can break-in with the reference settings but it will take a little longer. Might be safer to avoid the mistake of using the Break-in settings for normal viewing.

In reality, you really dont need to break-in the TV if you avoid black bars for extensive amount of time. The break-in dvd just helps you to stabilize your TV so that when you mess with the settings it will not change over time. And supposely age all the pixels evenly.

Lulz...sorry I meant break in. You'd never know it, but I do have that stage figured out. It's how to best set up the set for actual use afterwards that I'm asking about. Ref settings with Low temp or Offsets in mid? Which is the most popular? Poll?

It doesn't matter. Everything is converted to RGB eventually, and as long as the conversion is done properly it makes no difference. I'm sure that both the Oppo and the Pioneer do it correctly.

I know we're all thankful for D-Nice's work, but curious as well. I tried the new User settings for my Moto 6416 "TV" viewing and have to say I don't think I liked them as much as the last set. Granted the changes were small, but the +2 push on the Y adjustment didn't seem to improve the skin tones. By the same token I'm not sure what source D-Nice is using anymore to drive the display. I noticed when I went from the 2708 to the 6416 that the same settings produced slightly different results. I asked a while ago if there was a chance he could get a 6416-2 and see what that does to the cal values, but I guess the poor guy has his hands full.

If I hadn't missed the Spectracal special last month I think I would have gotten the CalMAN / Chroma5 bundle so I could join in the fun.

ML and Tony: don't forget that his changes should be taken *as a whole*, i.e., everything is basically interdependent; if you compare the +2 push on the Y adjustment (or the red -3 vs red -8) without making all the other changes for the two sets of settings, the result will be "out of whack" (is there any such thing as "in whack"? I too wish he would say what he is using for a source, but, far more importantly for me, I wish Pioneer provided a way to toggle between two *sets* of settings. What I end up doing is watching *long-term* with settings, and then watching long-term with another set. It's the only way I feel I can come to a conclusion I feel comfortable with.

I am unsure about the 9/8 settings vis a vis the 4/12 settings myself. I have a 110, however, so I'm comparing the 110's 4/12 settings to the 1150's 9/8 settings. I too notice more green with the new settings, by the way (noticeable with grass while watching a ball game, for example - don't have any idea which is more accurate, though). The picture is a little more 3-dimensional, slightly sharper, and slightly darker too. As I said, I'm unsure and need to do a lot more viewing. For me, the differences are relatively slight (and both settings are great), at least in comparison to changes in his settings prior to 4/12. The fact that the picture is sharper/more dimensional with the 9/8 settings makes me think that maybe is more accurate. Just a guess on my part, though.

D-Nice: any new settings for the 110/150? Or do you recommend using the 950/1150 ones from 9/8?

I recently purchased and hooked up a Pioneer VSX-03TXH receiver to my 8G 110 Kuro. Prior to owning the receiver I had my cable box connected via HDMI to the Kuro directly. I'm using D-Nice's Pure settings for my 110.

With my new set up I have the cable box connected to the receiver using the same HDMI cable as with my prior direct connection to the panel. And HDMI out from the receiver to the panel with a new 1.3 HDMI cable. This setup/connection change has resulted in a more stunning picture for HD sources. So much so that everything is richer and more dimensional looking. I thought to share my experience - not sure why the improvement in PQ, but yeah! A nice side effect to upgrading the audio. I got my Kuro last Sept. and it's like I have a new one!

Would I be shortening the life of my panel or its brightness if I run the Video pattern weekly for an hour? This is a preventive maintenance to fight against any possible image retention or minor burn-in that is not yet visible to the eye ( I always watch movies, etc. with back lighting and think image retention could be harder to detect). Thanks!

You should use D-Nice's reference without the RGB offsets with low temp for a couple of days. Watch the same movie (HD-DVD or Bluray for best results) then use the offsets and mid temp.

Basically, the low temp is calibrated for 6000K. The offsets are suppose to get you to 6500K using mid temp settings. The assumption is that you will be using User mode and that the person who calibrated your TV in the factory was not having a bad day so your TV is 6000K at the start.

The RGB offset with mid temp is to get rid of the "red push". This means that when you are looking at a white screen, it looks a little reddish at 6000K. If the RGB offset get you to 6500K with mid temp, the colors are going to "pop" more. Going from white to red scene, the red is more intense because the screen was real white. If the scene was reddish, going to red would be less dramatic. Same with other colors because the reddish tone screws up the color performance.

We are trying to calibrated your grayscale or white balance with the RGB settings. It is virtually impossible to do by eye. Of course, we are assuming that the offsets get you to 6500K. You will never know unless you have a colorimeter. That is why a professional calibration is always recommened if you can afford it.

The most important thing to understand about the Pioneer non-elite colorspace is that RED and GREEN will always be oversaturated and look wrong. The RED and GREEN will always look bad with default color settings. That is why D-Nice's reference has color at -10. This is to reduce GREEN oversaturation but at the cost of the saturation for other colors. You can never fix this color issue because the non-elite does not have CMS controls to adjust the colorspace points. Eventhough the colors are wrong, many people like the oversaturated colors".

I find with user mode, the color should be about -8 to -10 to really make green behave. With movie mode, the color should be around -3 to 0 to control red. Becareful with using user and movie mode, movie mode will read 10% lower Blue (if you have a colorimeter).

I have a colorimeter and calibrate using Movie mode because it looks best to me. The only problem with Movie mode is that it is universal so I can't have custom settings per port.

A-ha! I think that explains why my set looked the way it did when I made the changes. Thanks for clearing that up.

'Scuse the ignorance but what are the SM settings mentioned? I am looking for the best 5010FD settings, but notsure if they are the ones on the first page of the thread or now. And what does d-nice use to get these values?

Again, sorry of this has been asked before.

Just got my 5080HD..... had a couple of questions:

1) Is there any way to see how many hours the TV has already been run? I just want to rule out the possibility that I got a refurbished or a used.

2) I am using the break-in DVD to break-in the TV for 150 hours. There are two horizontal black bars on top and at bottom. I don't think this is normal .. as I thought the whole point of break-in was to stabalize all the pixels all toghether. Do I need to just fill the screen?

3) The contents of the break-in DVD is really just different colours filling up the screen ie there are no patterns etc. This is normal right? Somehow I thought the break-in DVD had fancy patterns etc.

I apologize if these have been answered before.

Thanks

wow. have been impressed with the 5010 that i just purchased to replace my older toshiba HD rear as tv #1. Watching its awesome video along with my BK ref50, earthquake amp, and def tech 7.1 system, i am very thankful to all reading the pioneer info here. i am still in break in on the 5010 and was somewhat surprised to feel how hot the 5010 is to touch. I have been breaking in using the recommended break in setting using just HD with no static images and no black bars at few hours at a time . Anyone ever adjusted the settings for the fans so they power on at a lower temp or is the hot surface just the norm versus HD rear projection tv?

Finally, for the first time in my HT career, i will purchase an extended warranty - either CPS or Mack so any thoughts, let me know. Back in 2000, I thought my Toshiba HD was IT but the 5010 has opened my eyes to cracks and details that finally match my audio. thx all

congrats on the new 5080

1. to check the panel hours you need to go into the service menu. look on page 2 post #58 for those instructions
2. yes, adjust the aspect ratio, full, zoom, wide whatever it takes to make sure the whole screen is being used
3. yes, it's just differeing shades of color that change every ~26 seconds and runs for 44 minutes. set your dvd player on repeat and check it periodically to see that it's running ok.

good luck and enjoy your new Kuro

I've been looking for the most recent reference settings ofr PURE mode for the 950HD but haven't been able to find them. Would some mind please linking me/directing me to them?

Thanks in advance

Check post #3 on this thread.

Can someone please elaborate on the differences they noticed after applying the SM offsets. Thanks in advance .

Anyone?

Ok, my first display after had a stuck pixel I did not notice until a month into it. I do not know if it came with it to not.

I got another 1150 and it now appears to have a stuck pixel in the same place as the first. I know that when I got the 2nd display it did not have a stuck pixel, but now it does.

Could a bad HDMI cable, cable box, etc. be making it get stuck? I have everything running through my reciever.

I am hooking up my computer to the display now, and it appears to be stuck on any input.

hopefully I will get it to come unstuck with the software that does that.

But do any of you have any ideas on what could be doing this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by goblue1 View Post
What if I have an 1150 hooked up to a PS3. Right now I have the PS3 outputting 1080p. Should I go into the PS3's settings when I watch a standard DVD and change the resolution to 480i?
Anyone?

Thought you could set the PS3 to output native 480p on standard dvd's? Thought that is how mine is setup. For blu-ray have it output 1080p however.