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The Official Pioneer 8G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 383

post #11461 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo63 View Post

Ok, my first display after had a stuck pixel I did not notice until a month into it. I do not know if it came with it to not.

I got another 1150 and it now appears to have a stuck pixel in the same place as the first. I know that when I got the 2nd display it did not have a stuck pixel, but now it does.

Could a bad HDMI cable, cable box, etc. be making it get stuck? I have everything running through my reciever.

I am hooking up my computer to the display now, and it appears to be stuck on any input.

hopefully I will get it to come unstuck with the software that does that.

But do any of you have any ideas on what could be doing this?

Have you compared serial numbers between the two units?

A_C
post #11462 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent_C View Post

Have you compared serial numbers between the two units?

A_C

no. And I don't know how I would get the number off my old set
post #11463 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo63 View Post

no. And I don't know how I would get the number off my old set

The paperwork for the exchange?

That way, you could determine if they gave you the same unit back.

A_C
post #11464 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by gamblers View Post

I have been breaking in using the recommended break in setting using just HD with no static images and no black bars at few hours at a time .

Congrats on your purchase from another 5010FD owner!

To be honest I do not have an answer on the heat issue: plasma TV's [lol almost by literal definition] run hot.

I feel I should respond though: are you using the break-in settings from the first post on this thread to watch normal TV? ...if so DON'T!!!!!! Those settings should only be used on that calibration dvd. Using those on regular programming on a young Plasma can be extremely damaging!

Re-read the first post and scroll down a bit for the "reference" settings...that is what you should use if you are not going to run the break-in dvd. ( Personally, although I treat my TV like Cameron's father treats his Ferrari, I think that running the thing is overkill. (To me it is like running a new car in break-in period in idle in your garage.) But the idea is to give your TV a workout with a dvd that alternates between uniform colors. Running a new TV on those settings on any normal programming is one of the more dangerous things you can do to your TV.)

Good luck and enjoy!
post #11465 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent_C View Post

The paperwork for the exchange?

That way, you could determine if they gave you the same unit back.

A_C

I saw them do the swap at my house. Plus it did not have the stuck pixel when I got it. Magnolia hifi is great like that
post #11466 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Updated 3/27/2008

Pioneer 4280/5080 Reference Settings

Main Menu:
AV Selection: User
Contrast: 29
Brightness: 0
Color: -10
Tint: Red 2
Sharpness: -15


Pro Adjust

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Standard
Text Optimization: Off


Picture Detail:

DRE Picture: Off
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Enhancer Mode: 2
Gamma: 3


Color Detail:

Color Temp: Low

CTI: Off


Noise Reduction:

3DNR: Off
Field NR: Off


Power Save Mode: Off

Orbiter: On


Note:
  • The color setting has been set to bring the overall color saturation to levels where everything "appears" correct. Feel free to change the color setting to your liking.

Are these the settings that are recommended for the 5080 during the break in or are they just for general viewing?
post #11467 of 12870
I think all of us can agree that D-Nice's reference settings have drastically improved the quality of our sets. (E.g. what was Pioneer thinking when they created "dynamic" ???!!!?!)

However, also from this thread I only discovered DRE-low a couple months ago (WOW!!! I could not believe what I was missing!!!) (If you do not believe me do a search and see that I am not alone...or better yet, try it and see what I mean.)

I do agree that it messes up the gamma and it is questionable if it should be used at times because it enhances an image thus deviating from the director's/cinematographer's vision. In addition, sometimes the picture is not as "endearing." Thus I still toggle it on and off depending on the source and my mood (mainly using DRE for nature/PBS specials and turning it off for movies.)

IMHO people should remember that his wonderful settings are reference settings and may be tweaked depending on the situation and viewer... For instance, I'm slightly color-blind so I crank up the color a bit since I do not notice the set's color problems.

So I started playing with some of the other "toys" on the set. (CTI, ACL, Black Level, etc...) They are not as drastic as DRE thus I keep them off. However, has had any positive experiences with these tools? In addition, has anyone had any success with any other deviations from D-Nice's [still wonderful] reference settings?
post #11468 of 12870
This is a photo of my screen. Of course the color , resolution and everything else is off due to my photo taking skills but that wasn't my purpose of taking this picture there's one thing that isn't off but is wrong and I bet you guys can see it immediately. That shift in the image on the bottom (which should be the left side of the screen but I don't know how to rotate the imgae). I've been seeing this alot lately and it's becoming quite disturbing. My best guess is that Orbiter isn't functioning as it should which would make Orbiter virtual useless on that strip of the screen. Has anyone else seen this phenomenom?

post #11469 of 12870
does it happen with every source or TV (cable/sat) only? If that's the case, you may want to check your cable box.
post #11470 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by myurkus View Post

I think all of us can agree that D-Nice's reference settings have drastically improved the quality of our sets. (E.g. what was Pioneer thinking when they created "dynamic" ???!!!?!)

However, also from this thread I only discovered DRE-low a couple months ago (WOW!!! I could not believe what I was missing!!!) (If you do not believe me do a search and see that I am not alone...or better yet, try it and see what I mean.)

I do agree that it messes up the gamma and it is questionable if it should be used at times because it enhances an image thus deviating from the director's/cinematographer's vision. In addition, sometimes the picture is not as "endearing." Thus I still toggle it on and off depending on the source and my mood (mainly using DRE for nature/PBS specials and turning it off for movies.)

IMHO people should remember that his wonderful settings are reference settings and may be tweaked depending on the situation and viewer... For instance, I'm slightly color-blind so I crank up the color a bit since I do not notice the set's color problems.

So I started playing with some of the other "toys" on the set. (CTI, ACL, Black Level, etc...) They are not as drastic as DRE thus I keep them off. However, has had any positive experiences with these tools? In addition, has anyone had any success with any other deviations from D-Nice's [still wonderful] reference settings?

I have deviated somewehat from them. I also use the service menu tweaks which help the color immensely. Usually, my Contrast and Brightness are slightly higher than D-NICE's settings. I also use DRE on regular TV watching since it adds some pop to the image. I usually turn it off for movies but I have used it on those too. Still, his settings are a GREAT place to start and you can just leave them and you'll still be good to go.
post #11471 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by lrstevens421 View Post

Can someone please elaborate on the differences they noticed after applying the SM offsets. Thanks in advance .

Accuracy, less video noise and much more detail during dark scenes.
post #11472 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by petmic10 View Post

Accuracy, less video noise and much more detail during dark scenes.

Thanks petmic.

SM adjustments have been applied. It was surprisingly easy. Color is certainly improved, I noticed this immediately. Not sure yet about video noise and shadow detail but color alone made the effort worth it. I'm not sure how he does it, but thanks D-NICE . For me, a great display has just gotten better.
post #11473 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Susilo View Post

does it happen with every source or TV (cable/sat) only? If that's the case, you may want to check your cable box.

Sorry, I posted this in the wrong thread. I guess I was a lot more sleepy than I thought. lol
post #11474 of 12870
So I decided to apply the SM color-offsets...I had to gather the info from many posts so let me make sure I have this straight. (I have a 5010 btw...)

1) Start with the reference settings ( Post #4 for me ) (However, changed to "MID" color temp for this adjustment.)

2) Made sure I was watching a 1080i source on my Motorola Cable Box so I am hitting the 60vs table when I get to the menu.

3) Went into the SM ( Post 58 )

2) Followed the instructions on ( Post 11427 )
Following this, I made the following adjustments:

R-High 247 -> 250
B-High 253 ->243
R-Low 512 -> 500
B Low 512 -> 499

I have to say, my first impression is that I am not happy with the differences. Did I do something wrong or is this a matter of personal preference (or problem with the Moto box/Comcast signal itself?) (I understand I should get a professional calibration, but from what I understood this should at least have improved my picture.)

Thanks much!
post #11475 of 12870
Had my 5010 calibrated Saturday evening by Mr. D-Nice. Just wanted to share the excellent results with everyone, and personally thank him here at AVS. He is a gentleman, very knowledgable (as if you didn't already know that and a pleasure to do business with. Spent all the time necessary to answer my questions and make me feel comfortable. The picture looks much better now, and has a more 3-D look to it, nice depth of image and great shadow detail as well as accurate colors. Money well spent IMO.

John
PS: the pic of my theater is pre calibration, and the flash totally blew out the screen, so don't judge the picture by that, not the purpose of the shot. Thanks.
LL

 

PDP5010FDPreCalibration[1].pdf 175.662109375k . file

 

PDP5010FDPostCalibration[1].pdf 172.109375k . file
post #11476 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by antennahead View Post

Had my 5010 calibrated Saturday evening by Mr. D-Nice. Just wanted to share the excellent results with everyone, and personally thank him here at AVS. He is a gentleman, very knowledgable (as if you didn't already know that and a pleasure to do business with. Spent all the time necessary to answer my questions and make me feel comfortable. The picture looks much better now, and has a more 3-D look to it, nice depth of image and great shadow detail as well as accurate colors. Money well spent IMO.

John
PS: the pic of my theater is pre calibration, and the flash totally blew out the screen, so don't judge the picture by that, not the purpose of the shot. Thanks.

John,UMR will be calibrating my 150 next month..I am anxiously awaiting the results...
post #11477 of 12870
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by antennahead View Post

Had my 5010 calibrated Saturday evening by Mr. D-Nice. Just wanted to share the excellent results with everyone, and personally thank him here at AVS. He is a gentleman, very knowledgable (as if you didn't already know that and a pleasure to do business with. Spent all the time necessary to answer my questions and make me feel comfortable. The picture looks much better now, and has a more 3-D look to it, nice depth of image and great shadow detail as well as accurate colors. Money well spent IMO.

John
PS: the pic of my theater is pre calibration, and the flash totally blew out the screen, so don't judge the picture by that, not the purpose of the shot. Thanks.

Thanks for the kind words. It was a pleasure calibrating your display.
post #11478 of 12870
Could someone with a 5080HD check to see if they have a black border around the edge of the screen that's a few pixels wide?

I have one that's always visible - even when there's no input and the TV is showing nothing but the blank screen. Here's a pic for reference:



Even though in the pic it looks like the border is only on the left side, it actually goes all the way around and unlike in the pic, it shows absolutely no color. It's like there's a section of pixels next to the bezel that are always off.

I'm guessing this is the way it's supposed to be but I want to make sure.
post #11479 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by rednef View Post

Could someone with a 5080HD check to see if they have a black border around the edge of the screen that's a few pixels wide?

Yes, it does.
post #11480 of 12870
I hope to receive my new 950 this week. Is the Pioneer set up for memory of different settings? I'd like to watch TV as well as use the break in DVD and am wondering if I can switch back and forth between appropriate settings.

Thanks
post #11481 of 12870
D-Nice:

I am wondering if you can direct me to your most recent PURE MODE settings for the 950HD?

Thank you in advance
post #11482 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by myurkus View Post

I have to say, my first impression is that I am not happy with the differences. Did I do something wrong or is this a matter of personal preference (or problem with the Moto box/Comcast signal itself?) (I understand I should get a professional calibration, but from what I understood this should at least have improved my picture.)

Give the settings linked below a try. They're based on D-Nice's earlier Movie mode settings. I think they're a bit "cool" and may not get you as close to D65, but I prefer them to any of the settings with Mid color temp. Note that my service menu changes are also different.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post13985843
post #11483 of 12870
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SMS1977 View Post

D-Nice:

I am wondering if you can direct me to your most recent PURE MODE settings for the 950HD?

Thank you in advance

First page of this thread.
post #11484 of 12870
p59teitel - Thank you for the response! I will definitely give it a shot...

Actually after some more testing (i.e. watching Planet Earth again ) I found that In some cases I do prefer the offsets I described over setting the color temp to low. It is nice to see snow without an orangish tint and a computer window with a fully-white background. However, I agree -I still often prefer the..well, "warm" feel of the low color temp...

This is [lol finally ] making me consider getting it professionally calibrated. D-Nice, would you mind flying to Chicago to calibrate my tv?
post #11485 of 12870
D-Nice:

Thanks very much
post #11486 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by myurkus View Post

... Actually after some more testing (i.e. watching Planet Earth again ) I found that In some cases I do prefer the offsets I described over setting the color temp to low. It is nice to see snow without an orangish tint and a computer window with a fully-white background. However, I agree -I still often prefer the..well, "warm" feel of the low color temp...

I tried a variety of of SM settings over a period of months before finally settling on something.

During all of this, I noticed that grayscale adjustments designed to work with Low result in a distinctly "warmer" look than settings designed to work with Mid (like those furnished by D-Nice), even though both allegedly measure "correctly." Low seems to be preferred by many (but by no means all) professional calibrators.

If you prefer the "warm" look and would like to experiment some more, here are a couple of offsets professional calibrators employed using Low color temp:

Calibrated in User Mode (Low color temp)

R-high -16
G-high 0
B-high +4
R-low +2
G-low 0
B-low 0

Calibrated in Movie Mode (Low color temp)

R-high -10
G-high 0
B-high +6
R-low -1
G-low 0
B-low -3

These came from two different professional calibrations, and clearly there is a difference of opinion. (Calibration is as much an art as a science.) But it's worth giving them a try and see whether one of them suits your tastes. (My own amateur attempt made before I got these turned out close to the "User" mode version above, only varying by one click in the red and blue high range.)

You can tweak further, if you like, as each panel and room is different, but these can be useful starting points if you are not quite satisfied with D-Nice's Mid color temp SM adjustments.
post #11487 of 12870
Maybe someone knows the answer to this. I was playing a movie on my PS3 in m2ts format (converted over from .mkv) . When playing the movie in either Smooth or Standard, there was considerable judder throughout the movie. When I played the movie back in Advanced mode, it was very smooth, no judder. The video is 23.976fps and this app called Mediainfo indicates that it has 5 Reference Frames, so I am not sure if this will shed any light.

I have played similiar movies before at 23.976 fps and Smooth or Standard was fine. So I am curious as to why for this particular video file, Advanced worked very smoothly and Standard or Smooth introduced lots of judder.

Regards,
Gus
post #11488 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselgg View Post

Maybe someone knows the answer to this. I was playing a movie on my PS3 in m2ts format (converted over from .mkv) . When playing the movie in either Smooth or Standard, there was considerable judder throughout the movie. When I played the movie back in Advanced mode, it was very smooth, no judder. The video is 23.976fps and this app called Mediainfo indicates that it has 5 Reference Frames, so I am not sure if this will shed any light.

I have played similiar movies before at 23.976 fps and Smooth or Standard was fine. So I am curious as to why for this particular video file, Advanced worked very smoothly and Standard or Smooth introduced lots of judder.

Regards,
Gus

Is the PS3 outputting 60hz or 24hz?
post #11489 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by rednef View Post

Could someone with a 5080HD check to see if they have a black border around the edge of the screen that's a few pixels wide?

I have one that's always visible - even when there's no input and the TV is showing nothing but the blank screen. Here's a pic for reference:

Even though in the pic it looks like the border is only on the left side, it actually goes all the way around and unlike in the pic, it shows absolutely no color. It's like there's a section of pixels next to the bezel that are always off.

I'm guessing this is the way it's supposed to be but I want to make sure.

All three Kuros I've purchased have that small margin on the left and right - perfectly normal.
post #11490 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisherbert View Post

Is the PS3 outputting 60hz or 24hz?

On the PS3, if I recall correctly --- > BD 1080p 24Hz Output: Auto , but it might be On I'll have to check when I get home.

This setting has been used for all the video/movies that I have watched. It's just for this particular video mentioned in my previous post.
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