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The Official Pioneer 8G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 419

post #12541 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigtom4prez View Post

I highly recommend these settings from a D-Nice calibration. I was lucky that my RGB offsets were the same. The picture is outstanding.I been trying for the last two year with a cheap meter and was never satisfied before now.


Thanks for the advice! I was actually planning on using these calibration settings in the near future, but assumed it would not help much with my grayish, contrast lacking image. I'll give it a try though. I may be surprised.
post #12542 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Updated 11/23/2008


Pioneer Elite 950/1150 Reference Settings

Main Menu:
AV Selection: Pure
Contrast: 28
Brightness: 0
Color: +6
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -15


Pro Adjust

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Standard
Text Optimization: Off

Intelligence: Off


Picture Detail:

DRE Picture: Off
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Enhancer Mode: 2
Gamma: 2


Color Detail:

Color Temp: Manual
R High -4
G High 0
B High +5
R Low -1
G Low +1
B Low -1

CTI: Off

Color Management
R -1
Y +1
G -4
C -1
B 0
M -1

Color Space: 2


Noise Reduction:

3DNR: Off
Field NR: Off
Block NR: Off
Mosquito NR: Off

Power Save Mode: Off

Orbiter: On



Pioneer Elite 950/1150 D55 Settings

Main Menu:
AV Selection: Movie
Contrast: 33
Brightness: -1
Color: +3
Tint: 0
Sharpness: -15


Pro Adjust

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Standard
Text Optimization: Off

Intelligence: Off


Picture Detail:

DRE Picture: Off
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Enhancer Mode: 2
Gamma: 3


Color Detail:

Color Temp: Manual
R High -2
G High -2
B High -4
R Low 0
G Low +2
B Low 0

CTI: Off

Color Management
R 0
Y +3
G -3
C -1
B 0
M +1

Color Space: 2


Noise Reduction:

3DNR: Off
Field NR: Off
Block NR: Off
Mosquito NR: Off

Power Save Mode: Off

Orbiter: On

can you please tell me what it the difference between the ''reference settings'' and the ''D55 settings''...wich one should i use for my 1150hd?,...thx.
post #12543 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by serge71 View Post

can you please tell me what it the difference between the ''reference settings'' and the ''D55 settings''...wich one should i use for my 1150hd?,...thx.

.. reference is what I use day-to-day; D55 explained in link:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...s#post10743923 (though diff. model settings)

Note:
Day mode is for daytime viewing (before 4PM) and/or high level of ambient lighting.
D55 mode is for old black and white movies that were mastered to this color temperature.
post #12544 of 12870
ok thx Daniel'son....
post #12545 of 12870
A few days ago I found my 4280 had a blue blinking light after my sister had used it to play Mario Galaxy 2 but didn't think much of it, just pressed the power button underneath to kill the power and pressed it again to turn it back on and everything was fine.

Until a few days later where I couldn't get any input other than the HDMI ones to display a picture. Not the Wii or 360 with component/composite or the sat box with S video. You still get audio but it's as if there is no video cable plugged in. The only thing I haven't tested is with a coax cable.

I was wondering if anyone has had this issue and/or knows what could have caused it etc because I am stumped as to why this all happened and only (thankfully) to the non HDMI inputs. Lets just say I haven't ruled out the PS3/360 as potential suspects
post #12546 of 12870
{I apologize, I mistakenly posted a question in the wrong forum.}
post #12547 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by myurkus View Post

Thus thanks a lot in advance!

Wrong forum, probably?
post #12548 of 12870
Lol my bad, I had two monitors up with multiple forums open for all of the components of my system-that was supposed to go on the Yamaha 1800 receiver Forum. Sorry to post again, I just needed to apologize. (Im on my iPhone but I'll move it later.)

Heh ok I'll make a valid question to try to save face Now that my Kuro (5010FD) is showing some age, I've noticed I've been having to
bump up my contrast and brightness. Where once I set it to 38/0 I am now calibrating at 42/3...is anyone else seeing this?
post #12549 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by myurkus View Post

Heh ok I'll make a valid question to try to save face Now that my Kuro (5010FD) is showing some age, I've noticed I've been having to
bump up my contrast and brightness. Where once I set it to 38/0 I am now calibrating at 42/3...is anyone else seeing this?

The direction you are going is normal.

In 60,000 hours you will probably have half the brightness of your display when it was new.
post #12550 of 12870
Hello all...simple question but its working me a bit...i have a pro-1150hd and im just wondering that if the display button is suppose to show me in what mode ''Hz'' the set is playing?...for example if on ''standard'' mode in the purecinema is it suppose to show me that the set is playing 24fps..the same if i select the advanced mode and 72Hz?..all i see is 36bit...full screen and 1080p...
post #12551 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by serge71 View Post

Hello all...simple question but its working me a bit...i have a pro-1150hd and im just wondering that if the display button is suppose to show me in what mode ''Hz'' the set is playing?...

It shows the input signal, not what is set is displaying at the moment
post #12552 of 12870
For the 8G Pioneers, 72hz is only engaged with a 1080p24 source when the Purecinema mode is set to OFF or Advanced. Advanced is "busted" due to lower light output and it has a problem with 1080i causing some weird fluctuation of light (corrected by changing source input and back again.) Just leave it off if you have have 1080p24 source players.

If you have 1080i source only, use Standard mode.
post #12553 of 12870
What are the commands to get into the service menu to check the number of hours used on the TV? Thanks!
post #12554 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by tt08 View Post

What are the commands to get into the service menu to check the number of hours used on the TV? Thanks!

http://www.avforums.com/forums/plasm...vice-menu.html
post #12555 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigtom4prez View Post

I highly recommend these settings from a D-Nice calibration. I was lucky that my RGB offsets were the same. The picture is outstanding.I been trying for the last two year with a cheap meter and was never satisfied before now.


Hi I am a newbie posting though I have been following this thread for some time. In fact this forum helped me in my decision to get a plasma instead of a LCD

I am in Singapore and would like to ask the experts here:

1) I have followed the service menu settings as suggested above and the colors looks good on my 508xg. My main question is what should be the ideal setting then on color management and color temperature on the standard menu and how do they interact with the adjustments on the service menu? ( ie do we leave the standard menu neutral after we adjust the service menu) These standard menue settings seemed to be more important than the settings on the service menu as the difference can make or break.

2) There is a new 600M on sale for US$10k... isn't that too expensive or is that reasonable for a soon-to-be extinct treasure?

Thanks much!
post #12556 of 12870
Quote:

To get to Pioneer Plasma Service menu to check number of hours used:

Make sure the plasma and the media box is in standby.
Press DISPLAY on the remote (just press, do not hold)
Wait 3 seconds
Press LEFT, UP, LEFT, RIGHT and POWER (on the remote)
If done correctly, the plasma turns on and the INFORMATION page is displayed


I did exactly all these steps on the 5010FD remote many times, the TV just got turned on and there are no information page displayed.

What am I missing here? Thanks for any help
post #12557 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by tt08 View Post

I did exactly all these steps on the 5010FD remote many times, the TV just got turned on and there are no information page displayed.

What am I missing here? Thanks for any help

Sometimes you have to try it a number of times for it to work. I seldom succeed in the first attempt. The margin of timing and aiming is pretty small. Just try it a few times more, with a different interval between the keypresses, it ought to work, for sure!
post #12558 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pfeffernuss View Post

Sometimes you have to try it a number of times for it to work. I seldom succeed in the first attempt. The margin of timing and aiming is pretty small. Just try it a few times more, with a different interval between the keypresses, it ought to work, for sure!

I succeeded by pressing DISPLAY for about 3 seconds and do point the remote towards the infra red (read manual to find out where exactly is it)
post #12559 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by specuvestor View Post

Hi I am a newbie posting though I have been following this thread for some time. In fact this forum helped me in my decision to get a plasma instead of a LCD

I am in Singapore and would like to ask the experts here:

1) I have followed the service menu settings as suggested above and the colors looks good on my 508xg. My main question is what should be the ideal setting then on color management and color temperature on the standard menu and how do they interact with the adjustments on the service menu? ( ie do we leave the standard menu neutral after we adjust the service menu) These standard menue settings seemed to be more important than the settings on the service menu as the difference can make or break.

If I remember correctly, your 508xg is an Asia-only model that is much different from our American 5080, which does not have a color management system in the User menu. Only the Elite 8G models here provide color management.

Quote:
Originally Posted by specuvestor View Post

2) There is a new 600M on sale for US$10k... isn't that too expensive or is that reasonable for a soon-to-be extinct treasure?

That sounds very high compared to what people here paid for them when they were available (typically US$3,500 or even a bit less), but I don't know what the market conditions are there. I will say that the prices here for such an awesome display were an absolute steal, and now that I've had a 600M for 11 months (and D-Nice calibration since October), I'd have to say I wouldn't have objected too much to paying double the going rate for such an amazing picture.
post #12560 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by p59teitel View Post


If I remember correctly, your 508xg is an Asia-only model that is much different from our American 5080, which does not have a color management system in the User menu. Only the Elite 8G models here provide color management.

That sounds very high compared to what people here paid for them when they were available (typically US$3,500 or even a bit less), but I don't know what the market conditions are there. I will say that the prices here for such an awesome display were an absolute steal, and now that I've had a 600M for 11 months (and D-Nice calibration since October), I'd have to say I wouldn't have objected too much to paying double the going rate for such an amazing picture.

Hi thanks for the advice

Yes that's what I read too. So I am thinking I should have left the service menu alone :P In addition to color temperature adjustment for RGB, no one seems to talk about color managment for RYGCBM (for eg M stands for magenta) which is also avail on the standard menu

I guess I would pay US$5k for the 600M as logically it sounds too steep at 10k. But emotionally think this is probably one of few sets left in Singapore that is brand new and paying for legacy.

One more thing: when I go into the service menu I see that pixel depth is 12bit. Is that correct when DISPLAY shows as 36bit. Am I missing something here? I am using a pio BD 320.
post #12561 of 12870
Time to play "How is mine compared to yours"?

I just checked the panel hours on my 110FD for the first time in a long time and was pretty astounded:

Panel: 6055H 30M
MTB: 23104H 28M

P-Count: 1730 (I'm guessing this is the number time the TV has been turned on?)

How about others? I would guess I am on the high side as I do have the TV on a lot. I have to admit I have considered moving to a full grid LED back lit LCD, but the picture is still spectacular on my 110FD, but it would be nice to get the "space heater" out of the house, especially in the warm summer months
post #12562 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by specuvestor View Post

In addition to color temperature adjustment for RGB, no one seems to talk about color managment for RYGCBM (for eg M stands for magenta) which is also avail on the standard menu

The USA 8G and 9G Elites and the 9G M-class monitors have RYGCBM color management in the Home Menu, but I'd still imagine that your display is so fundamentally different than ours that our settings wouldn't work for you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by specuvestor View Post

I guess I would pay US$5k for the 600M as logically it sounds too steep at 10k. But emotionally think this is probably one of few sets left in Singapore that is brand new and paying for legacy.

If I were in your shoes and in your country, I could see adding $5K worth of logic and $10K worth of emotion together and dividing by the result by two to see what happens.

Quote:
Originally Posted by specuvestor View Post

One more thing: when I go into the service menu I see that pixel depth is 12bit. Is that correct when DISPLAY shows as 36bit. Am I missing something here?

Not really.
post #12563 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by p59teitel View Post


The USA 8G and 9G Elites and the 9G M-class monitors have RYGCBM color management in the Home Menu, but I'd still imagine that your display is so fundamentally different than ours that our settings wouldn't work for you.

If I were in your shoes and in your country, I could see adding $5K worth of logic and $10K worth of emotion together and dividing by the result by two to see what happens.

Not really.

Thanks for the help. Been asking around and seems like this may well be the last new 600M in singapore :P scarcity value now.
post #12564 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by p59teitel View Post

If I were in your shoes and in your country, I could see adding $5K worth of logic and $10K worth of emotion together and dividing by the result by two to see what happens.

Looks like Kuros is coming back... probably should save US$7.5k for that instead

http://www.channelnews.com.au/Display/Plasma/J4P8T4S3

At the least we now have an upgrade path for us 8G owners
post #12565 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by specuvestor View Post

Looks like Kuros is coming back... probably should save US$7.5k for that instead

http://www.channelnews.com.au/Display/Plasma/J4P8T4S3

At the least we now have an upgrade path for us 8G owners

Agreed. However, Panasonic has lost some ground with their 11/12G models with the MLL bug they introduced and have yet to officially admit or resolve it (at least to the satisfaction of a lot of folks on this forum).

My two 8Gs are still performing well but knowing that the future holds a possible progression is comforting. There does remain a lot of misinformation about plasma versus LCD as most consumers don't know or care that much about the finer details (until they see it for themselves).

If Panasonic can keep the price down while making the panels "thinner", lighter, and "bigger" they should be able to over come the LCD lead..... (maybe).
post #12566 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duck05 View Post

If Panasonic can keep the price down while making the panels "thinner", lighter, and "bigger" they should be able to over come the LCD lead..... (maybe).

I'm in the finanacial industry and samsung & LG are not interested in furthering plasma investment. Their focus is LCD and AMOLED. Panny is the only one doing plasma in future and even they are hedging their bets with LCD. Without investments and cashcow from monitors and notebooks it is not likely plasma advancement can overcome LCD in a commercial and consumer point of view.

As much as we like Kuro, the mass market is captivated by brilliant colors (rather than fidelity) advocated by samsung. It is a matter of marketing and plasma has failed in that. Case in point on marketing: LG has been doing IPS for years yet it takes Apple to tell the world that it is a superior TFT technology

If panny cannot match the price points of the 42" LCD in the mass markets which helps to plow profits into R&D then future of plasma is quite dire in the long term. But again OLED almost disappeared 3 years ago when everyone gave up investment except Samsung SDI

Anyway let's enjoy plasma while it last for no one knows what tomorrow brings but TFT leadership will be here to stay for next 5 years at least
post #12567 of 12870
Is there anyone who has a mac mini connected at 1080P without the major overscan?
post #12568 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Venomous1 View Post

Is there anyone who has a mac mini connected at 1080P without the major overscan?

Hi have been wanting to buy a mac mini to hook up to the living room for a long time and finally they got the hdmi. Doesn't PC mode on the pio solve the 16:235 issue?
post #12569 of 12870
I at one time did hook up my wifes old pre-Intel Mac Mini to my 110FD. I do not remember having major overscan issues at 1080p. I thought I just used Dot-by-Dot. I do remember having trouble getting it to display properly at first and had to use one of those custom resolution programs to get it up properly. I used a DVI to HDMI cable from Monoprice to connect it. I do not remember using PC mode, though I could be wrong, it has been a while.
post #12570 of 12870
I need some help with IR commands. I've got all my equipment connected to an SC-07, and the SC-07 connected to my 5080 with a single HDMI cable.

For my HTPC (HDMI) to display properly, I need to have the menu setting under
Options -> HDMI Input -> Video set to "PC", instead of "Auto"

For my Wii (component) to display properly, I need to set it back to "Auto".

I'd like to set my Harmony remote to do this automatically. Under the "Play Wii" activity I can set additional commands to send to the TV at the beginning and end of the activity, so I guess I'll send the command there, but I don't think any of the stock commands will do it. Is there a command to switch this setting directly? Or some workaround I can use to toggle it?
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