The Official Pioneer 8G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 425

Every time you get that "3d" feeling, take two aspirin and go to bed.

I just got FIOS and I'm noticing some channels are not showing up on my 110fd using their CableCard vs their DVR STB. Has anyone else seen these issues before?

Channels I current don't receive on my kuro but do receive on their STB are the following...

570 ESPN
670 Travel HD
685 Bravo

Thanks in advance for any help!

I have this problem as well, have had it for a long time but one different channels than you (that i rarely watch). I have a DVR also hooked up to this TV so I just switch to watching those channels through the box ....hasn't bothered me enough yet to want to endure the tech support call.

I had the Verizon tech at the house last Friday for about 4 hours swapping cable cards, running line signal tests, running a line direct to the TV and the conclusion was it's not the service but the TV not handling those channels for whatever reason.

Really nice guy, he just called me up to let me know he tried the original cable card I had on my set with a set at his shop and it picked up my missing channels.

Perhaps that's why Pioneer no longer supported the CableCard on the newer sets....lol Their hardware is great but their software is not...

Hi I was wondering if a Pioneer Kuro 110fd would be worth 500 dollars that someone is selling for locally. I currently have a Panasonic p50g20 from 2010 . I was wondering if it would be much different as far as picture quality? Thanks for your input.
Edited by albertnsb - 9/6/12 at 1:22pm

If it's in good condition the answer is yes.

If it is not damaged or broken and is in good working order I would say the black level should be lower by 50 to 70%. You can check out a review here... http://www.hometheater.com/flat-panels/907kuro/
The black level measured was .004 ftl.

Did you end up looking in to this further ? Just curious..

I was just going through and redoing my picture settings on my Pioneer plasmas and used D-Nice's settings on page one of this thread for my 4280, but the blacks seem a little crushed. The only device connected to my TV is an XBOX 360 running as a Windows Media Center Extender.

Does anyone have any tweaked settings for the 4280 when hooked to a 360 extender?

Also, does anyone recommend any changes to the XBOX 360 display settings for Pioneer plasmas:

• Reference Levels - Standard, Intermediate, Expanded
• HDMI Color Space - Auto, Source, RGB, YCbCr709, etc.

Been a long time since have been up here but my 5080 is still going strong after 5 years. I've been without it for 3 years due to a divorce but I was able to get my ex to agree on a TV swap so I get her back now.

I'm wondering if an ISF calibration is in order here ? It's never been prof calibrated..I've always used DNICE's settings.

Any referrals for a Good ISF tech in southern CT ? I'll have the TV at my place tomorrow and really cannot wait!!!

Use the links at the bottom of my post for references and area where calibrators work.

Two outstanding calibrators that I have direct experience with are UMR and D-Nice.

UMR
W Jeff Meier
jeff at
accucalhd.com

D-Nice
[/quote]
Edited by htwaits - 11/23/12 at 5:27pm

D-Nice has a new email address but doesn't want it posted in the clear (not really a good idea to post email addresses).. you can use this pic if you like:


Edited by turbe - 11/24/12 at 8:00am

Thanks for the information. I've changed my post. Can you edit your reply to remove the email information.

Just another complication of modern life.

My dad had a power outage, power came back on for a moment, it went back out then back on. After this, his PDP-6010 would power up, but gives the 12 blinks of the blue LED and nothing more. I've been googling and reading like crazy to fix it, and I can't seem to get anything to work. We ordered a used replacement main board, it has the same issue. Tried a second used board, it has the Red/Blue lights on solid indicating the Trap Switch was triggered. So I'm asking for specific help:

1) On the two boards that have the 12 blinks of the blue LED, if I unplug power cable, plug it back in and turn on power switch it goes to red. I can use the remote of standby button to go to blue. The display will come on and show "Starting up, please wait ...". If i press the Home Menu button, it will show up, but no matter what in about 60 seconds the display goes off and the blue led blinks 12 times. if you let it sit, it will occasionally turn back on, and repeat the above process again.

However, my dad is thinking that the issue may be related to the lack of OTA Guide updates being available, since that also seems to be related to this blinking issue. So I attempted to factory reset the TV, and also to get into service mode. Neither sequence of remote presses works. I can't get the Final Setup menu to appear, and I can't get the TV to go into service mode (Display button, 4 second pause, left, up, left, right, power).

Can anyone provide guidance?

A while back someone posted a link to the service manual for the 5010 which has the same electronics. Twleve Blue flashes are listed as "Digital Tuner communication" .... I tried up loading the file but it may be too large....

If you send me a message with your email address I could send what I have.....

I hope D-Nice or other veterans can comment...

Recommended contrast level is +45 in the settings in post #1 for use with break-in DVD.

I was told by Pioneer's Boston area service tech to set contrast no higher than 10 for the first 50-60 hours.

What's a first-time plasma owner to do?

You have a brand new from the box 8G Pioneer (basically no hours on it)? Are you going to use D-nice posted settings and follow his Panel Aging?

If you answer no to either question, make your adjustments to what you need for your setup/environment...

I personally wouldn't have contrast as low as 10.. but for these Pioneers for normal viewing, wouldn't put Contrast over 40

I have the service manual for the set. Was more trying to see if anyone on here had any other ideas as the reset sequence for the Red/Blue "trap switch" isn't working, and the 12 blue blinks has affected the two other boards we bought thus far. To be honest, we can't find any more boards to buy at this point without dropping $1k to Pioneer for a brand new one.

Just trying to avoid spending $1k to fix it.

So my 110FD has continued running strong since I bought it in 2007....until this week. I had it turned off for the last week as I was out of town (button on the bottom left). I went to go watch via OTA last night and I get no picture for any stations, but I get perfect sound. Signal level is fine according to the signal meter in the TV. Overlays in the top right as well as the channel information both appear just fine. The main TV menu and TV Guide come up fine as well. Video thru other HDMI sources is fine as well.

Anyone seen this? Anyone got a fix? I haven't ventured to doing a full reset as I'd really prefer not to lose my video cal settings (which I think included SM adjustments IIRC)

As an update, I was able to fix this by unplugging the TV for the night. Once i plugged it back in the tuner worked fine

Hi there , I just inherited a low use Pioneer Pro-150FD from my father and its hooked up to my Sony BluRay... Why does the Monitor say that I am only veiwing at 1080i... Is it in the Monitor that sets it to upscale to 1080p... Thanks in advance for any help in this situation... Roland

That's the input signal.. sounds like you have the Sony setup to output 1080i.. can you set it to 1080p24 or 1080p60?

I have set the Sony BluRay to 1080p24 and the Pioneer still says 1080i when playing a BluRay disc up in the right hand upper corner... Getting stumped

is the Sony connected directly to the Pioneer or through a AVR or something else?

Directly to the Pioneer

And you are using HDMI, correct?

Just a heads-up for anyone experiencing the blinking blue LED light problem. My 4280 just started having the problem where it blinks 12 times repeatedly & the TV turns off by itself after being on anywhere from about 5 to 20 minutes. So after looking around here and a couple of other threads I tried some of the suggested troubleshooting steps, but the following did not work:

-Unplugging the set, waiting 15 minutes, then plugging the set back in
-Changing the zip code in the TVGOS setup to a nearby local zip
-Changing the zip code in the TVGOS setup to 00000
-The TVGOS diagnostics submenus wouldn't even work for me as the main diagnostic menu froze and I could no longer navigate. (Had to turn the set off to get out).

The good news is that I already had my settings written down, so I decided to go with the factory reset procedure. When going through the steps, I came across the same issue that some had where you get a "final setup abort" message, telling you go power down the set. After that message popped up I still waited the 1 minute before powering down and unplugging the set, and then waited at least 5 minutes before plugging it back in. Then, a few seconds after turning the set back on, the TVGOS setup screen came on. I skipped the setup by selecting the "don’t remind me again” option.

It has been a few hours now, and problem seems to have been solved. The factory reset worked in spite of the abort message that had popped up. The regular menu settings (picture, sound, etc.) did go back to their defaults. As for the service menu settings, I want to wait a day or two to make sure that all is still well before going back in there to change the settings that I had changed. I’m guessing that the settings in the service menu did actually revert to the factory defaults because my side mask color reverted back to its original color.

Thanks to all who have provided us with these troubleshooting procedures! I hope this post helps out anyone who runs into the “final setup abort” issue – you might not have to freak out like I did when it popped up.

An update to the post above... All is still working correctly, so I went into the service menu. Turns out that the service menu settings did not reset back to the factory defaults, so they were left as they were. The side mask that had appeared the other day was actually from my cable box and not from the TV.

Is this correct? : With a 1080p/24p Blu-ray disc, my 6010 set to Dot by Dot, the display is 24p with no pull-down? Should Pure Cinema be set to Off or Standard for pure 24p playback without 72hz conversion?

Wouldn't you have to do 72hz? I don't know anything about Kuro, but I imagine 48hz or 24hz would give terrible flicker.