I can gleefully report that the main board swap was a HUGE SUCESS!!!!!! The process took almost four hours as I removed the screws by hand. I placed the TV on a blanket on the end of the bed. I used the stand that was right behind me to place the screws in perfect order for easier replacement. I removed the upper and lower frame bracket the partially covers the main board as this made easy access to all the wiring.
The only annoyances I had was the bed was a little to low to stand and a little to high to kneel so my lower back got sore. Also the phone rang while I was removing the Tanshi lead from the board. I broke off the one edge of the plug as I got startled when the phone rang. It was the Republican Party spewing more worthless propaganda and asking for money. I was lucky as it did not damage the integrity of the plug. It just made removal a little longer as I had to get some of my fine jewelers tools to help pry up the on side of the plug.
Some advice to anybody who wants to try this is to take your time. Use a new Phillips screw driver as the screws are small.
Lay out the screws on a table in the sequence you remove them as there is a lot of then and three different kinds.
Take the time to remove the upper and lower frame bracket that partially covers the main board as this gives you full access to remove the plugs.
Turn off the phone as you do not want your concentration broken in the middle of a delicate operation.
Be careful of the wires and plugs as they are brittle from age and heat. Do not bend them back from the board as they are stiff. All the plugs are just friction fitted but they may be hard to remove from age. I had a difficult time with the plug going to the fan as it was stuck on the board. I wiggled it side to side and it slowly worked free.
The ribbon cables are the easiest as you just lift up on the hinged brown piece of the connector and they slide right out. In no way pull up on the Tanshi plug as it is short and is soldered to the Tanshi board. If you break off the Tanshi cable you will have to replace the Tanshi board. Once the Tanshi plug is free do not bend it out of your way just pull the board out from underneath it when you get the board lose.
Make note on paper of how many wires you disconnect from the board as you do not want to forget to plug them back into the new board. I rechecked three times and I discovered I missed one small one at the top of the board.
If something is giving you a hard time removing double check to see if you missed a screw as the rear panel comes right off with ease if all the screws are removed. The same with the other parts.
I am a machinist and had extensive blue print reading so removal and reinstallation was easy for me. If you have no mechanical abilities I would suggest having a service technician do this. Some of the things will break easily if slightly forced.
Do not plug in the TV with the rear panel removed as there is a safety switch on the back and will lock out the TV if tripped.
I shut off the main switch on the bottom left side of the TV and then unplugged it over night as to make sure all residual power was dissipated from the TV.
When I turned on the TV it only took a few seconds until the antenna input was showing. All my User settings were set back to factory defaults. I did not even bother with the TV Guide feature as it did not show up when I powered up the TV. I had a huge sense of relief when I turned on the TV. I was worried because the price I paid for the board. Cost was $838.11 according to the packing slip.
An indicator that your main board is failing is the TV will be slow when switching inputs. It may even hang up and even lose the picture on that input. You can turn the TV on and off but if you lose or remove power it probably will not power up again. The TV will display the starting up message and then after a minute or two it will shut down and show the 12 blinking blue lights. The menu of the TV will work will powered up but if you push any buttons related to inputs or channel changing the TV is starting up message will appear again.
I figured that this was the most economical way to go since the type of 50 inch TV in the $800 to $900 range would be a big step down from this TV. The only plasma in this size is the 51 inch F8500 Samsung and it is $1800 before taxes and shipping. Also this news broke about Samsung plasmas this afternoon:
I really do not want 3D, 4K, Smart TVs, or curved screens so doing this repair made a lot of sense to me as I learned my lesson from the format war. I will let some one else take the loss on these gimmicks. Hopefully OLED will be reasonably priced and main stream by the time these Kuros are finished for good.