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The Official Pioneer 8G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 429

post #12841 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justinf89 View Post

I just found this site and I have a few questions about my kuro. I bought my 150FD back in 07 and I remember thinking I would break it in before I calibrated it. Well here it is, almost 2014 and its still using "optimal". We very rarely watch anything except for hd from directv. We don't even have a surround setup yet.
Wow, I'm amazed that you bought a Kuro 150 to watch TV. smile.gif

As I recall they were over $7k back then.
Quote:
I don't have the money for expert calibration so I was just wondering if the reference settings on the first page are the ones I should use. I figure it would be better than "optimal" haha.
Someone has already suggested the "best" choice from the owner choices. That should be fine for the material that you watch.
Quote:
I'd rather sell it than have to repair it.
It's a tricky time for plasma. Your Kuro may last longer than some currently available plasmas.
Quote:
I was thinking about selling it since it is almost 7 years old. Hard to believe it's still one of the best.
Usually people sell displays because they want something bigger or better. I'm sticking with our 6010 Kuro until it dies.
Quote:
Also, is it necessary to take the back off and clean out the dust?
Our Kuro was six years old this December, and it needed a board replaced at the end of October, but we still had two months of extended coverage left in are warranty. The set was very clean inside, and our house has a substantial dust problem. I don't think it would be worth the hassle to take the back off just because there might be a little dust. In any case, I didn't see any in ours. I've had a lot of computers and they all needed cleaning. I think the difference is that the air flow through a computer is much more powerful than the the airflow through the Kuro sets.
post #12842 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justinf89 View Post


Edit: Not able to access the service menu. Tried it about 10 times. Maybe I can try kuro reader or controlcal.
Your timing may be off or even your aim. Are you sure that you're waiting three seconds and that you keep the remote pointing right at the IR receiver in the set. I would do it from about one foot away to be sure that the IR receiver was getting a full blast from the remote.
post #12843 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Your timing may be off or even your aim. Are you sure that you're waiting three seconds and that you keep the remote pointing right at the IR receiver in the set. I would do it from about one foot away to be sure that the IR receiver was getting a full blast from the remote.

This is important!
post #12844 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justinf89 View Post

So with the pure setting, I don't need to change anything else?

Sound & Vision: Pioneer KURO PRO-150FD Plasma HDTV Settings

D-Nice has settings for the PRO-150FD (post #6)
post #12845 of 12870

Recently had a momentary lapse of reason and diddled the settings on my they'll-have-to-pry-it-from-my-cold-dead-hands 6010FD with ugly results. Went back to square one with D-Nice's *awesome* baseline and, a few minor color tweaks later, USER mode is now as pleasing to my eyes as it has always been. Just a +1 for D-Nice and his generously-shared settings! You really cannot go wrong if you start there, IMHO.
post #12846 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkasanic View Post
 

^^^^Another one bites the dust...the timing of these failures is starting to feel like more than just coincidence!  I'm afraid if it's not the TV guide tuner issue that's causing the 12 blinking blue lights then you'll likely need a new main board (AWV2457).  I actually picked one up for under $100 but haven't had time to undertake the repair.  In hindsight, I should've just started removing screws from the back panel a few at a time each night...probably could've saved a larger chunk of time when I finally do get to it! :rolleyes:

 

Well, I finally got around to replacing the AWV2457 Main Assy board in my 6010HD.  Problem solved!  I posted some details of the swap here for anyone interested:

 

http://www.avsforum.com/t/764225/official-pioneer-5070-71-flashing-blue-light-shut-down-thread/600_100#post_24230530

post #12847 of 12870
Guys I have searched but I cannot find a similar symptom.

I have a PDP-6020FD.

My symptom is when the unit transitions from blacks into a lighter color, I can see the pixelated remnants of the blacks for a second or so....

Is this normai or is it because of age?

Any advice is appreciated
post #12848 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by booyaa View Post

Guys I have searched but I cannot find a similar symptom.

I have a PDP-6020FD.

My symptom is when the unit transitions from blacks into a lighter color, I can see the pixelated remnants of the blacks for a second or so....

Is this normai or is it because of age?

Any advice is appreciated

Would your pixelations be Magenta in color ?A dark purple
post #12849 of 12870
Actually yes they do look that color
post #12850 of 12870
I have had good luck correcting this issue by raising a few settings in the service menu ,it is very simple , I have seen others replace the Power Supply for this issue with little or no luck , I can help you if you can get in the service menu and are ok with making a few tweaks , this is not a reset and the adjustments can be reset to the original settings if needed , in other words you can put everything back to factory settings if needed , It takes me 30 seconds to make ther changes ,very simple . you must make note of the factory setting before adjusting anything .
post #12851 of 12870
Thanks qw..

PM sent
post #12852 of 12870
chk your PM
post #12853 of 12870
Well I guess I can be added to the list of 5010 owners whos Kuro won't start up and flashes the 12 blinking lights. I accidently hit the TV Guide button last night and when I tried to exit the screen I ended up with a black screen. I got the picture back by shutting off and turning the TV back on. I have my TiVo connected to HDMI input 5.
So today I decided to unplug the set and let it restart to see if it would correct the issue and when I plugged the TV back in and turned it on it would get stuck at Plasma is starting up. After a few minutes the TV would shut off and the blue light will blink 12 times per cycle. If I unplug the TV and plug it back in the red light will display but after a few minutes the blue light will start blinking with out turning the set on. I tried to enter the factory reset screen but I can not see the menu system to do the reset as the TV will not display any video. It will display the plasma is starting up though.

I checked for a main assembly board but the only place one is available is from Pioneer themselves and it is $823. I am fortunate as I have two 5010s and this one is in the bedroom. My economic fortunes is much worse today than when I bought these two Kuros so replacing the TV is going to be difficult. I guess I will have to get a new 8500 Samsung Plasma since there is no new Panasonic Plasmas left for sale.

My stomach is doing flip flops right now as I have less than 10,000 hours on the TV. I really do not want to give up on my Kuro but I am afraid if I buy the board and it is not the problem I will be out $800 which I could put forward to a new set. I am also dreading making a call to Pioneer as there is no repair centers with in a 100 miles of my home. The closest was Lancaster Pa and he said if I need service that I would have to bring the set to him. I have really bad luck when it comes to electronics as I feel that my hobby is somehow cursed.
post #12854 of 12870
If you know for sure your issue is related to the TV guide then you need to get into the service menu as you most likely don't need a new main board. Several users with the TV guide issue reported difficulties getting into the menu but I would keep trying giving your current situation. Good luck!
post #12855 of 12870
"Beginning on November 1st 2012 and completing in April 2013 Rovi will be discontinuing the broadcast data service for consumer electronic guides in North America. The guides known as Guide Plus+, TV Guide on Screen and the Rovi Guide will no longer have the ability to receive data via the broadcast data service. Please contact your CE Manufacturer for further details."
post #12856 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkasanic View Post

If you know for sure your issue is related to the TV guide then you need to get into the service menu as you most likely don't need a new main board. Several users with the TV guide issue reported difficulties getting into the menu but I would keep trying giving your current situation. Good luck!

There is buttons on the remote that can bring up certain menus but if you hit any button that is related to inputs, TV Guide, channel buttons the TV is starting up message appears and will shut off after about a minute and get the 12 blinking blue lights after you power up the TV.

These posts are similar to what I am seeing but the poster describes he get 8 blinking lights before the 12. I also can not see the factory reset menu as it is just a black screen and the TV will shut off after a minute passes from being turned on.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/764225/official-pioneer-5070-71-flashing-blue-light-shut-down-thread/600#post_22470048
http://www.avsforum.com/t/764225/official-pioneer-5070-71-flashing-blue-light-shut-down-thread/600#post_22593239

I have the TV unplugged and I will try after a day or two but if I have no luck by Monday then I will spend the $800 and fix it as it will be the best alternative as the picture quality is still as good or even better than what is currently available. I actually may keep these sets until the phosphors wear out.

I appreciate the pictures and instructions you guys posted as it makes it easier to do the repair myself. I am becoming certain that the main board has failed. As the TV try's to boot up after a cold start it stops as it can not receive any input signal, which in turn causes the TV to shutdown and flash a code. It is possible I stumbled on what happens as the board is failing as I was getting black screens when switching the inputs. I probably would have been fine for a bit longer if I never removed power from the TV.
I should mention that no matter what I do when powering on the TV it will shut off after a minute or two and flash the 12 blinking blue lights. Even if I turn the TV off before it reaches this cycle, it will start flashing the 12 blinking blue lights after being a solid red light for about a minute or two.

I specifically bought this model because I wanted the TVGOS feature and I used it up until the last day that the data was broadcasted which was the end of March 2013. My cable company had analog TVGOS inserters in all of their head ends and these were the last inserters to be shutdown. I have used TVGOS since it started in the late 1990s. I also used to trouble shoot problems for Gemstar/Rovi engineers over the years. I really did not have the 12 blinking lights since the data was stopped but I am kicking myself because I did not do the factory reset but I am severely doubting that TVGOS has anything to do with this issue. I am wondering if my living room 5010 will eventually meet the same fate. I may buy a spare main board in the summer just in case.

Here is the list of parts available from Pioneer for the 5010/6010 models.
http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/model.asp?modelNum=PDP%2D5010FD
http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/model.asp?modelNum=PDP6010FD&x=41&y=9
Edited by Jed1 - 3/13/14 at 1:08pm
post #12857 of 12870
Thanks a lot for the 6010FD parts link. I hope I never need it as I love my beautiful display as much as I did when it was new. Having seen countless other displays (and some of those professionally calibrated) in plasma, lcd, led/lcd, whatever ... I still have never seen one that beats my Pio. This is my subjective opinion, of course, which is (by definition) the only one that matters to me. Best of luck with the repairs - can't believe you are in Frackville where one of my oldest friends of 50+ years resides. Small world! Best wishes again on reviving your sick baby.
post #12858 of 12870
I agree with you quarlo

The 8G's are imo still right up there - i know people with 9G and the fabled 9.5G's who still own an 8G and to this daybhave a deep respect for their 8G's also.

They were the start of the modern day plasma quality revolution and to this day hold their own and more.

Some will say but "ah they 8G's have been surpassed in black level" like it's the only important thing ever in a good image.

Yes they were but are still more than black enough - but have practically everything else still going for them.
post #12859 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by quarlo View Post

Thanks a lot for the 6010FD parts link. I hope I never need it as I love my beautiful display as much as I did when it was new. Having seen countless other displays (and some of those professionally calibrated) in plasma, lcd, led/lcd, whatever ... I still have never seen one that beats my Pio. This is my subjective opinion, of course, which is (by definition) the only one that matters to me. Best of luck with the repairs - can't believe you are in Frackville where one of my oldest friends of 50+ years resides. Small world! Best wishes again on reviving your sick baby.

Your Welcome! I hope you do not need to use the parts list but it is available if needed. I am just about a half century old and lived in Frackville all my life but it is rapidly becoming like Radiator Springs in the Cars movie. Not much here anymore not even decent jobs. I have to do the repairs to my TV myself as it will be way to expensive to have a pro fix it. A few years ago I had a repairman come to my home to look at my DLP set and he told me to throw it in the garbage and charged me $60 for the advice. I managed to get it working with a few parts but there is a small smudge on the lens. I almost have it polished off.

I am going to order the part tomorrow. It looks like it will be an additional $14.50 to ship it to me from Pioneer. I will be a lot more relaxed when I change the board and have the set turn on and work normally. I looked at TV sets that are 50 inches and around the price range of the board and none of them can compare to the 5010 so it is better to fix it. As I stated before a 51 inch Samsung F8500 plasma is $1800 from Amazon so it will be a $1000 cheaper for the new board.
post #12860 of 12870
I have been reading through the 5010 service manual and no matter what circuit on the main board is bad it is advised to change the board. The manual also recommends that you reset to the TV to its factory defaults after you change the board. I am wondering if any body who had the board changed done the reset? The manual shows where all the different screws go and what sequence to reinstall and tighten them when reassembling.

I plugged the set in today after it was unplugged for two days and got the same result, TV powers up and displays the starting up message and then after a minute it shuts off and then get the 12 flashing blue lights. I assume it is safe to conclude the main board is bad and needs replacement. I guess it is not worth calling Pioneer for advice as I know the closet repair shop will not come here and will suggest I bring the TV to them. I wish this board was much cheaper as I would not mind getting it and it does not solve my problem as I suspect you can not return it.
post #12861 of 12870
Ruh Roh! I ordered the main assembly board off of Pioneers site on Monday and it states on the order that the part is back ordered even though it says that it is in stock from the list of parts. I tried calling Pioneer Parts and I get a message stating that there is training for two hours and to call back later.
I hope this does not end up like the World Wide search for parts that I put up with RCA almost 10 years ago. There never was any parts found and I was fortunate that I bought that set from a local dealer as I got a newer replacement set.
The Pioneer that failed was from the now defunct 6Ave Electronics. I got it in December of 2008. My other Pioneer is from Walts TV and was bought in April of 2009.

There is an electronics recycling event near me on April 19th. If I do not get any change in status by then then the TV will go to the trash heap and I will have to look into buying a replacement TV. So Far I looked at the Samsung F8500 Plasma and the Sony W900 LCD. They seem to be both priced around $1800. I am not really enthused about either TV but there is not many options for good high end TVs. I am really lost looking at the LCD sets as I never considered buying one but I suspect that in a few years this will be the only display tech left. Oh Well.
post #12862 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jed1 View Post

I have been reading through the 5010 service manual and no matter what circuit on the main board is bad it is advised to change the board. The manual also recommends that you reset to the TV to its factory defaults after you change the board. I am wondering if any body who had the board changed done the reset? The manual shows where all the different screws go and what sequence to reinstall and tighten them when reassembling.

I plugged the set in today after it was unplugged for two days and got the same result, TV powers up and displays the starting up message and then after a minute it shuts off and then get the 12 flashing blue lights. I assume it is safe to conclude the main board is bad and needs replacement. I guess it is not worth calling Pioneer for advice as I know the closet repair shop will not come here and will suggest I bring the TV to them. I wish this board was much cheaper as I would not mind getting it and it does not solve my problem as I suspect you can not return it.

 

I didn't do the factory reset.  Whether it was because of the new main board or because my tv was unplugged for a couple months, the TV appeared to be reset to factory already when I powered it on.  YMMV but I don't see how a reset could hurt the process.

post #12863 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkasanic View Post

I didn't do the factory reset.  Whether it was because of the new main board or because my tv was unplugged for a couple months, the TV appeared to be reset to factory already when I powered it on.  YMMV but I don't see how a reset could hurt the process.

I am thinking that it will store some type of data from the other internal settings in the displays service menu. I was reading another thread on 8G and 9G Kuros and it has this warning in the first post.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1510500/pioneer-8g-9g-kuro-reset-guide

I most likely will never do what these guys are doing but I wonder why it will be trouble if the main assembly board is replaced.
post #12864 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jed1 View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkasanic View Post

I didn't do the factory reset.  Whether it was because of the new main board or because my tv was unplugged for a couple months, the TV appeared to be reset to factory already when I powered it on.  YMMV but I don't see how a reset could hurt the process.

I am thinking that it will store some type of data from the other internal settings in the displays service menu. I was reading another thread on 8G and 9G Kuros and it has this warning in the first post.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1510500/pioneer-8g-9g-kuro-reset-guide

I most likely will never do what these guys are doing but I wonder why it will be trouble if the main assembly board is replaced.

 

After reading that post, I'm glad I didn't do the reset.  I don't have any issues with my blacks showing red tint so I don't see any other reason to perform the reset - especially if there's a chance I could brick my tv in the process.

post #12865 of 12870
[To all owners of pro150fd's; I recently purchased a 150fd in pristine condition. My question is this: If the set has been has been professionally calibrated, and you reset the set to factory default settings, does that override the settings that were input during the calibration? Or are the calibrations and adjustments made permanent?
Thanks very much for any help.
Herman8or~
post #12866 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkasanic View Post

After reading that post, I'm glad I didn't do the reset.  I don't have any issues with my blacks showing red tint so I don't see any other reason to perform the reset - especially if there's a chance I could brick my tv in the process.

Good News!!!! I was trying to contact Pioneer and in the middle of trying to get through my door bell rang and it was DHL delivering the main assembly board. It came all the way from Japan in three days and is brand new. I rechecked my order on Pioneers website and says that it is being packed for shipment. I never completed the call but I wonder if I will be shipped another board. I guess time will tell. They haven't deducted the board from my checking account yet. I may do the install tomorrow. The stomach butterflies are back as I am hoping when I am done and turn on the TV it will be working again. I am also wondering about doing the reset. I think for the time being I will fore go it if the TV works normally with out it. I will cross that bridge when I get there.
post #12867 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jed1 View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkasanic View Post

After reading that post, I'm glad I didn't do the reset.  I don't have any issues with my blacks showing red tint so I don't see any other reason to perform the reset - especially if there's a chance I could brick my tv in the process.

Good News!!!! I was trying to contact Pioneer and in the middle of trying to get through my door bell rang and it was DHL delivering the main assembly board. It came all the way from Japan in three days and is brand new. I rechecked my order on Pioneers website and says that it is being packed for shipment. I never completed the call but I wonder if I will be shipped another board. I guess time will tell. They haven't deducted the board from my checking account yet. I may do the install tomorrow. The stomach butterflies are back as I am hoping when I am done and turn on the TV it will be working again. I am also wondering about doing the reset. I think for the time being I will fore go it if the TV works normally with out it. I will cross that bridge when I get there.

 

Glad to hear!  Take your time on the board swap and be sure if you have a powered screwdriver to set the torque low for those back panel screws.  Keep us posted.

post #12868 of 12870
I can gleefully report that the main board swap was a HUGE SUCESS!!!!!! The process took almost four hours as I removed the screws by hand. I placed the TV on a blanket on the end of the bed. I used the stand that was right behind me to place the screws in perfect order for easier replacement. I removed the upper and lower frame bracket the partially covers the main board as this made easy access to all the wiring.
The only annoyances I had was the bed was a little to low to stand and a little to high to kneel so my lower back got sore. Also the phone rang while I was removing the Tanshi lead from the board. I broke off the one edge of the plug as I got startled when the phone rang. It was the Republican Party spewing more worthless propaganda and asking for money. I was lucky as it did not damage the integrity of the plug. It just made removal a little longer as I had to get some of my fine jewelers tools to help pry up the on side of the plug.

Some advice to anybody who wants to try this is to take your time. Use a new Phillips screw driver as the screws are small.
Lay out the screws on a table in the sequence you remove them as there is a lot of then and three different kinds.
Take the time to remove the upper and lower frame bracket that partially covers the main board as this gives you full access to remove the plugs.
Turn off the phone as you do not want your concentration broken in the middle of a delicate operation.
Be careful of the wires and plugs as they are brittle from age and heat. Do not bend them back from the board as they are stiff. All the plugs are just friction fitted but they may be hard to remove from age. I had a difficult time with the plug going to the fan as it was stuck on the board. I wiggled it side to side and it slowly worked free.
The ribbon cables are the easiest as you just lift up on the hinged brown piece of the connector and they slide right out. In no way pull up on the Tanshi plug as it is short and is soldered to the Tanshi board. If you break off the Tanshi cable you will have to replace the Tanshi board. Once the Tanshi plug is free do not bend it out of your way just pull the board out from underneath it when you get the board lose.
Make note on paper of how many wires you disconnect from the board as you do not want to forget to plug them back into the new board. I rechecked three times and I discovered I missed one small one at the top of the board.
If something is giving you a hard time removing double check to see if you missed a screw as the rear panel comes right off with ease if all the screws are removed. The same with the other parts.
I am a machinist and had extensive blue print reading so removal and reinstallation was easy for me. If you have no mechanical abilities I would suggest having a service technician do this. Some of the things will break easily if slightly forced.
Do not plug in the TV with the rear panel removed as there is a safety switch on the back and will lock out the TV if tripped.
I shut off the main switch on the bottom left side of the TV and then unplugged it over night as to make sure all residual power was dissipated from the TV.

When I turned on the TV it only took a few seconds until the antenna input was showing. All my User settings were set back to factory defaults. I did not even bother with the TV Guide feature as it did not show up when I powered up the TV. I had a huge sense of relief when I turned on the TV. I was worried because the price I paid for the board. Cost was $838.11 according to the packing slip.
An indicator that your main board is failing is the TV will be slow when switching inputs. It may even hang up and even lose the picture on that input. You can turn the TV on and off but if you lose or remove power it probably will not power up again. The TV will display the starting up message and then after a minute or two it will shut down and show the 12 blinking blue lights. The menu of the TV will work will powered up but if you push any buttons related to inputs or channel changing the TV is starting up message will appear again.

I figured that this was the most economical way to go since the type of 50 inch TV in the $800 to $900 range would be a big step down from this TV. The only plasma in this size is the 51 inch F8500 Samsung and it is $1800 before taxes and shipping. Also this news broke about Samsung plasmas this afternoon:
http://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.php?subaction=showfull&id=1395062567
http://www.flatpanelshd.com/news.php?subaction=showfull&id=1395392640
I really do not want 3D, 4K, Smart TVs, or curved screens so doing this repair made a lot of sense to me as I learned my lesson from the format war. I will let some one else take the loss on these gimmicks. Hopefully OLED will be reasonably priced and main stream by the time these Kuros are finished for good.
post #12869 of 12870
^^

Well done with repairing the KURO!.

Regarding the link with regards to Samsung plasmas you made the correct choice in my opinion - hopefully these Kuro's see us through until OLED's motion and lag isn't comparable with first generation LCD's wink.gif
post #12870 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu03 View Post

^^

Well done with repairing the KURO!.

Regarding the link with regards to Samsung plasmas you made the correct choice in my opinion - hopefully these Kuro's see us through until OLED's motion and lag isn't comparable with first generation LCD's wink.gif

Thanks for the compliment. I am hoping that I can at least make it to 2020 that will put over ten years on the Kuros. I am hoping for a break through in OLED in the next few years. I see that Jeff from AccuCal is going to be in PA this June and would like to see if he can calibrate my downstairs 5010. I would like to have both done at the same time but the main assembly board cost was a set back financially but far better than buying a new display. I am hoping the main assembly board on my downstairs Kuro doesn't decide to take a powder this year. I have been following you and others in the Pioneer 8G 9G Reset Guide thread but I don't have the balls to go that far with my Pioneers yet. Maybe a little later down the road.
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