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The Official Pioneer 8G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 133

post #3961 of 12754
For those of you on the fence with regard to having your display calibrated

I had UMR Jeff from AccuCal www.accucal.org out to my home last night to calibrate my Pioneer PDP6010FD Plasma display and Yamaha home theater audio systems. While I was expecting to see some improvement in both the video and audio qualities of my home theater system I was not prepared to be blown away like I was after Jeff worked his calibration magic on them.

As I explained to Jeff, I thought I had done a pretty decent job on my own by using the auto configuration settings for my receiver and the recommended display setting found on this forum with some slight tweaking I had done after using the AVIA DVD as a guide. I was obviously very wrong in both of these assumptions.

Jeff's attention to detail discovered an internal wiring error in my JBL subwoofer that had my entire audio settings flawed as well as some user inexperience and reliance on the auto configuration features of my receiver. I was always pleased with the way my sound system sounded. Now I am in awe of how it sounds after Jeff's calibration.

In my opinion the display from my Pioneer Kuro PDP 6010FD plasma now rivals the display of the Elite series models.

Jeff's love of home theater and his desire to share his years of experience with his clients and fellow AVSFORUM members in a meticulous manner makes him stand out above the rest. He was able to explain very complex technical terms and processes to me in layman's terms. The five hours he spent with me went by so fast and I learned so much as he shared his thoughts and recommendations with me.

I try to spend my hard earned dollars as wisely as possible and this was one of the wisest investments I have ever made.

Thanks Jeff!!! You are the best, and I highly recommend you and your services to anyone interested in having their home theater system calibrated.

post #3962 of 12754
Hello Everyone, just bought a 5080 and began running the burn-in disk. It's been running for 24 hrs now.

My question has to do with my HD receiver. It's a bell express vu 6100 receiver (older model). Do D-Nice's settings for the newer receivers (V221, 622, 722) work well for burning the 5080 with my 6100?. I'm trying to limit my actual tv viewing as much as possible but now and again, I'd like to watch some tv while I wait for that 150hr mark to go by.

Thanks for the help
post #3963 of 12754
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reyfam View Post

[b]...Thanks Jeff!!! ...

Thank you. It is always a pleasure to help a fellow enthusiast.
post #3964 of 12754
Quote:
Originally Posted by delrmx01 View Post

Quick question on the Break-in DVD files, which one do I burn from the site, I think I may have found someone that can burn it for me:

http://www.eaprogramming.com/downloads/files/

Thanks,
MD


Anyone --bump?
post #3965 of 12754
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reyfam View Post

For those of you on the fence with regard to having your display calibrated

I had UMR Jeff from AccuCal www.accucal.org out to my home last night to calibrate my Pioneer PDP6010FD Plasma display and Yamaha home theater audio systems.

Thanks for your report. I've included it in the list of owner's calibration reports that is linked at the bottom of my post.

Enjoy
post #3966 of 12754
D-Nice, what happened to your toshiba HD DVD settings?
post #3967 of 12754
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuance View Post

Ooo, good catch!

As I once said in an earlier post in this thread, those side mask instructions above don't apply to how to adjust the side masks on the 8G TV's. However, you did correctly adjust the side masks. If you set them to 0 you should be good to go.

Did you try watching 4:3 content and you still had grey bars? If so, try the procedure again, but when you are finished adjusting, hit "enter" and then hit the "home menu" button to exit the SM.

Any thoughts on why this seems to be working for some people and not for others?

So far I have been told it works for 2 people and not for 1. You are using a 5080 is that correct?
post #3968 of 12754
Quote:
Originally Posted by delrmx01 View Post

Anyone --bump?

I used this file.

_Breakin_DVD_R_ISO.zip
post #3969 of 12754
Quote:
Originally Posted by delrmx01 View Post

Anyone --bump?

I recommend just buying one off of the website. They're $6.50 shipped, which isn't much more than the price for a forum member to ship one to you. Go to the home page and click Buy Now on the right-hand side.
post #3970 of 12754
Quote:
Originally Posted by artemus1 View Post

Looking for any insight into a stuck pixel situation. Sorry if this has been discussed earlier on the thread.

I bought a Pioneer 5080 about 3-4 weeks ago and, upon finishing up 250 hours now of use, I noticed a pixel that does not fire all the time. At times it works properly, at times it appears as just a red dot on the screen. I have a call in to Pioneer and am waiting for a response, but had a few questions that I hope some of you might be able to answer:

1) What are the likelihood these pixels become "unstuck"?
2) Is there something I can do to try and fix the situation?
3) I know Pioneer has a 10 dead pixel rule, do they stick to the letter of the warranty (i.e., after just three weeks am I truly stuck in this situation?)

Any advice/insight would be appreciated.

Thanks.

I've heard of others running The Incredibles on their TV to try to remove stuck pixels. Something about the colors in that movie seem to help unsticking pixels. I have no idea as to the likelihood of them becoming unstuck.

Here's a post by Roman that explains more about Pioneer's dead-pixel policy.
post #3971 of 12754
Quote:
Originally Posted by delrmx01 View Post

Anyone --bump?

I think there are just different version of the same file, and support docs. Different file type depending on your DVD burning software.
post #3972 of 12754
Is anyone using the new Panasonic BD30 blu ray with a Pioneer 5010/6010. If you are can you post the video settings you are using for? Thanks in advance.
post #3973 of 12754
Pre-aging (Burn-in prevention) is extremely simple. Use a 100 IRE full field white image for 200 hours. Don't reduce any settings, even increasing contrast is better.........
post #3974 of 12754
Quote:
Originally Posted by delrmx01 View Post

Quick question on the Break-in DVD files, which one do I burn from the site, I think I may have found someone that can burn it for me:

http://www.eaprogramming.com/downloads/files/

Thanks,
MD

Did you get an answer yet? I think the 3 files are basically the same. It is just a matter of which format you can work with to burn your DVD. I used Disc Copier in Roxio Easy Media Creator 9 to burn the ISO file to the DVD.
post #3975 of 12754
Kalrith,

Thank you very much for your response. Will try your suggestion.
post #3976 of 12754
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Ross View Post

No, by "global" we simply mean that whatever initial settings you made on your Pure input, will be carried over to every other input you use Pure mode. You can certainly use Pure mode for any input you wish.

If you use "User mode", those settings can be unique for every input you have, but as D-Nice said, they won't be as accurate as Pure mode.

So, new member, hi everyone. I'm considering either a 5010 or a pro110, and want to know about the "Pure Mode". Is this part ofthe ISF capability of the Elite, or is this some other picture mode that the 5010 doesn't have?
post #3977 of 12754
Hello.

I just want to make sure I have some things right here. I just got my Elite Pro110. I am using the settings from D-Nice for the breakin with his disk. How I understand from everyone here when I want to do some normal viewing during this process of TV and DVD I can use the other settings and then just go back to the burnin settings when I return to the disk burnin process. My question is I have a Tosh X2, a Elite 95 BR player, and the SA 8300 HD/DVR box. 1. Am I going to use his new day, ref, and night settings with me tweeking them as I see fit? I see with the other panals there are various unit settings, but with the Elites he has the Moto box settings and the other 3 I mentioned above. 2. Anyone try the Moto settings with the SA 8300? Or do I just stear clear of these?

Thanks alot,

This tread has been THE most detailed discussion I have ever seen for a product.

Thanks!
post #3978 of 12754
Quote:
Originally Posted by [Irishman] View Post

So, new member, hi everyone. I'm considering either a 5010 or a pro110, and want to know about the "Pure Mode". Is this part ofthe ISF capability of the Elite, or is this some other picture mode that the 5010 doesn't have?

It's a picture mode that the 5010 doesn't have.
post #3979 of 12754
Quote:
Originally Posted by pantherquest View Post

Any thoughts on why this seems to be working for some people and not for others?

So far I have been told it works for 2 people and not for 1. You are using a 5080 is that correct?

I've been out of the loop here for a while (been in the speaker forum) and here I see one of my quotes on the last page...? LOL - cool.

Honestly, I have not thoughts. I have a 5080HD and it should work for all of them. In fact, I would imagine it works for any pure line Pio.

Who is having an issue with setting the side masks to black?

Here is the procedure I used to do you for my 5080HD:

Enter the service menu as follows:

Have the TV off and hit the "Display" button on the remote. Wait 3-6 seconds (6-8 if that doesn't work) and then hit left, up, left right on the remote control. Then power on the TV and you'll see the service menu appear.

When you enter the service menu, use the "mute" button to navigate the the "Side Mask Level" menu and then enter that menu by hitting "enter" on the remote. Adjust the numbers down to 0 using the left arrow and the side masks will turn black. Then hit the "Home Menu" button to exit the menu.

Done deal.

Hope that helps buddy.
post #3980 of 12754
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuance View Post

I've been out of the loop here for a while (been in the speaker forum) and here I see one of my quotes on the last page...? LOL - cool.

Honestly, I have not thoughts. I have a 5080HD and it should work for all of them. In fact, I would imagine it works for any pure line Pio.

Who is having an issue with setting the side masks to black?

Here is the procedure I used to do you for my 5080HD:

Enter the service menu as follows:

Have the TV off and hit the "Display" button on the remote. Wait 3-6 seconds (6-8 if that doesn't work) and then hit left, up, left right on the remote control. Then power on the TV and you'll see the service menu appear.

When you enter the service menu, use the "mute" button to navigate the the "Side Mask Level" menu and then enter that menu by hitting "enter" on the remote. Adjust the numbers down to 0 using the left arrow and the side masks will turn black. Then hit the "Home Menu" button to exit the menu.

Done deal.

Hope that helps buddy.

Why not just turn side bar detection off in the option menu?
post #3981 of 12754
anyone with the 1080p elites and tosiba hd dvd players, what are your settings with pure mode?
post #3982 of 12754
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Thanks.

Thanks for all the help D. You've been a good info man for someone who's just starting to get video "interested". You've been awesome, humorous, and helpful! I'm sure all of us Pioneer owners owe you big time. Kuro is a nice place to stop.

Thanks again.
post #3983 of 12754
tried to PM, but D-Nice wisely has turned that feature off.

First, congrats on the retirement!

Second, with the addition of the D65 reference settings for the 60" Elite Kuro, it looks more promissing for a general, all-in-one setting that'll work for the majority of sources.

When mine shows up (sadly, was delayed, hopefully will get it by Friday) I'm going to be hooking up my oppo/SA HD box/BD10/A1 via a monoprice switcher, running a single HDMI cable to the panel. I'm hoping, then, to have a utilitarian calibration that can serve as the benchmark, tweaking my -players- if required to this standard.

With the brighter settings as well there are no doubt added concerns about image persistance - as this is my first plasma (coming off of CRT RPTV) I'm more than a little bit paranoid. Ignorance, as always, will make you more fearful.

Similarly, I plan on using the break in DVD in conjunction with normal 16:9 viewing material over the first few weeks of the set, but won't be doing the full-on, 150 hours from first setup "baking" of the set (nor did I, say, blast white noise through my speakers to soften them up prematurely... ). It may be superstitious, but I'm taking your recommendations and partially adhering to them, the way that many of us (rightly or not) take the advice of our Doctor.

Oh, yeah. I should really see a Doctor one of these days...

At any rate, if you have any new advice for noobs given the additional settings that you've contributed (save the cryptic DON'T USE WITH MOTOROLLA BOXES, eesh) it'd be much appreciated.

Thanks again to all that pushed me over this precipitous edge of plasma ownership...
post #3984 of 12754
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuance View Post

I've been out of the loop here for a while (been in the speaker forum) and here I see one of my quotes on the last page...? LOL - cool.

Honestly, I have not thoughts. I have a 5080HD and it should work for all of them. In fact, I would imagine it works for any pure line Pio.

Who is having an issue with setting the side masks to black?

Here is the procedure I used to do you for my 5080HD:

Enter the service menu as follows:

Have the TV off and hit the "Display" button on the remote. Wait 3-6 seconds (6-8 if that doesn't work) and then hit left, up, left right on the remote control. Then power on the TV and you'll see the service menu appear.

When you enter the service menu, use the "mute" button to navigate the the "Side Mask Level" menu and then enter that menu by hitting "enter" on the remote. Adjust the numbers down to 0 using the left arrow and the side masks will turn black. Then hit the "Home Menu" button to exit the menu.

Done deal.

Hope that helps buddy.

Thanks a lot! It's much appreciated.
post #3985 of 12754
Quote:
Originally Posted by valoidr View Post

Why not just turn side bar detection off in the option menu?

This won't make em black. Just one shade of grey.
post #3986 of 12754
Thanks for all your help, D-Nice. What a resource you have been. I hope you enjoy retirement.
post #3987 of 12754
Enjoy your retirement, D-Nice. You were a valuable asset to this forum and we owe you a huge debt of gratitude. Take care man.
post #3988 of 12754
Quote:
Originally Posted by kalrith View Post

I've heard of others running The Incredibles on their TV to try to remove stuck pixels. Something about the colors in that movie seem to help unsticking pixels. I have no idea as to the likelihood of them becoming unstuck.

Here's a post by Roman that explains more about Pioneer's dead-pixel policy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by artemus1 View Post

I have a stuck pixel and looking for any insight/guidance from those in the know. Sorry if this has been discussed on the thread previously.

I purchased a 5080 about 3-4 weeks ago. Had been going through the break-in stage and now have about 250 hours on it. Just yesterday I noticed a pixel that was not firing at times, when it was not, it looked to be red. Very apparent against an ice surface. I had been scrutinizing the screen pretty thoroughly, so if it didn't start yesterday, it could only have been going on for a few days.

I have a call in to Pioneer stating the issue, and am waiting for a response from customer service.

Several questions for the thread:
1) Any insight into the likelihood that this will become unstuck and the timeframe whereby it might occur?
2) Is there anything from a settings standpoint to do to try to fix this?
3) I know Pioneer states in their documentation that they require 10 pixels to be impacted before honoring the warranty, but is that really the case? I don't want to believe I have had this set for one month and have to live with this. Have a sinking feeling I played roulette in ordering this and the gun went off.

Any input/advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

You still may be able to take it back and exchange it depending upon where you bought it. I have a 950HD and the first one I bought had two stuck pixels and I exchanged it at Tweeter. This time I had them turn the TV on there so I could check for stuck pixels before I brought the 2nd one home.

Good luck!
post #3989 of 12754
Quote:
Originally Posted by tai4de2 View Post

Advance mode will recover the 24 frames per second and then apply 3:3 pulldown to get 72Hz display. Judder is reduced vs 3:2 pulldown but the effect is subtle and you may still see strobing or other artifacts related to the fact that 24Hz is not really adequate to capture motion without them.



Yes. Advance mode is the only way to get a 72Hz display.


I watched Troy last night on my 150FD, to see if the panning of the walls had less judder in Standard, Smooth, or Advanced. I have 1080i input from a Toshiba HD-A1 via HDMI.

The conclusion -- each was slightly different, but I don't believe any of them totally eliminated the 3:2 pulldown judder. I'm not really sure which was best. There is no way that any of them gave smooth 24 fps playback, though none was terrible (deinterlacing was done properly).

My question is whether I should bother upgrading to a 1080p24 player, like the Toshiba HD-XA2. If I am truly getting 72 Hz, 3:3 pulldown, without artifacts just by going to Advanced mode, then I am disappointed. Things just have to be better than this.

Question: Has anyone noticed an improvement on movie playback in Advanced mode, going from a 1080i60 player output, to a 1080p24 player output?
post #3990 of 12754
Hi all. I finally joined the Kuro Club! This is my first plasma panel and so I'm both ignorant and paranoid. I'll be getting my PRO 150FD tomorrow and so I'm trying to prepare for the break-in process.

Just a few questions:
1) D-Nice specifically mentioned to use the break-in disc with a DVD player. Does it matter that I will be using a Tosh HD-A2 HDDVD player?

2) I will be using an HDMI cable for the break-in process and have the HDA2 output at 1080i. Is it pertinent to use a player that outputs in 1080p or perhaps is component cables better during the break-in process?

3) I understand that the break-in process is 150 hours, however, does this mean continuously (6 days straight...talk about heat build up ) or will 12-15 hours a day suffice?

Thanks everyone and I must say to D-Nice, if we ever meet, the drinks and dancing girls are on me.
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