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The Official Pioneer 8G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 148

post #4411 of 12870
Stupdid question,

D-Nice's new reference settings, are they to be used after the 6010 has been ISF calibrated, or is it for those who haven't calibrated their set? (of course, if it has been ISF calibrated, then I guess you would be using the settings.....set by the ISF calibrator. I told you it was a stupid question, but I just want to make sure.)

I see that the 6010 settings have changed quite a bit. I wonder why that's so.
post #4412 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

no. can't people read?

the first set is for use with the break in dvd only (it only says this is bolded colored capital letters, i can see how someone could miss it )...

the others are for "regular use"... these will be fine if you aren't using the break in disk... you can play with them to your hearts desire...

keep the thing out of torch mode and vary your viewing and you'll be fine...

Um I think you need to re-read my post....I said for AFTER break in is complete, use the second set of settings...
post #4413 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by roosterman68 View Post

I'm considering purchasing the 5080, the Sony XBR4 and the Samsung 71 series. I'm considering the Sony and the Samsung because of the demo I saw with a Pirates of the Carribean video (blue ray using Component signal which as I understand it means it is 720P) at a local big box store. It looked almost 3D on the XBR4 and 71 series. It blew me away. I have not seen the same DVD on the 5080.

Question... Will the 5080 look almost 3D like the XBR4 / Sammy 71? I know the Sammy has TBE and motion blur issues which is really scaring me and from what I've read the Sony has flashing / muir (sp?) issues.

Your experince / expertise is welcomed to help me make this decision.


Any help you guys can provide concerning my question above would be greatly appreciated. I have attempted to search this forum for the answer but cannot find it.
post #4414 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by ad72 View Post

Stupdid question,

D-Nice's new reference settings, are they to be used after the 6010 has been ISF calibrated, or is it for those who haven't calibrated their set? (of course, if it has been ISF calibrated, then I guess you would be using the settings.....set by the ISF calibrator. I told you it was a stupid question, but I just want to make sure.)

you answered your own question...
post #4415 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Banks93 View Post

I just bought the Pioneer 5080 720P a couple weeks ago and am using the Direct TV H-20

Are these the settings I should use?

Pioneer 4280/5080 with Scientific Atlanta Cable Boxes, all Cable Cards, direct cable into Ant A and OTA antennas (may work with Dish V221/622/722 and DirecTV H20/HR20 satellite receivers)

Main Menu:
AV Selection: Movie
Contrast: 38
Brightness: +1 (Day) -1 (Night)
Color: -2
Tint: Red 1
Sharpness: 0


Pro Adjust

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Standard
Text Optimization: Off


Picture Detail:

DRE Picture: Low
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Enhancer Mode: 2
Gamma: 3


Color Detail:

Color Temp: Low

CTI: Off


Noise Reduction:

3DNR: Low
Field NR: Off



Power Save Mode: Off

Orbiter: On



Pioneer 4280/5080 with Motorola Cable Boxes

Main Menu:
AV Selection: Movie
Contrast: 39
Brightness: +1
Color: -3
Tint: Red 4
Sharpness: -5


Pro Adjust

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Standard
Text Optimization: Off


Picture Detail:

DRE Picture: Low
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Enhancer Mode: 2
Gamma: 3


Color Detail:

Color Temp: Low

CTI: Off


Noise Reduction:

3DNR: Low
Field NR: Off



Power Save Mode: Off

Orbiter: On

I as well just bought the 5080HD and never knew you were suppose to break in your new plasma. I tried reading through this thread for the answer to my question, but 130 pages is a little much.
If I don't run the break in DVD and follow the suggested settings by D-nice for 5080's hooked up to a Scientific Atlanta Cable Box will that be ok?
Why doesn't the manual recommend to break the TV in?
What would happen if I just set the TV to what I thought looked the best and watched TV like I always have, with no break in?
post #4416 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtt561 View Post

What would happen if I just set the TV to what I thought looked the best and watched TV like I always have, with no break in?

Probably nothing if you do not abuse it. Most people do it just in case.
post #4417 of 12870
First of all, thanks to everyone for their contributions. I've learned a lot by lurking here for the past couple of months, and when (if ever) the price is right, I'm considering buying a 4280.

The way I'm understanding this is that the red bolded settings are for use with the break-in DVD only, and the settings that follow (for cable boxes, XBox, etc.) are just suggested settings for after you've completed breaking-in the plasma.

So does anyone then have suggested settings for breaking-in the Kuro by using the Scientific Atlanta Cable box? I'm also aware that we should be avioding static logos and black bars during this break-in period. Thanks!
post #4418 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by RomanInvision View Post

Probably nothing if you do not abuse it. Most people do it just in case.

How would one abuse a tv?
I do not play video games and like to watch a lot of sports and movies.
post #4419 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtt561 View Post

How would one abuse a tv?
I do not play video games and like to watch a lot of sports and movies.

crank up contrast and brightness.
leave it paused for hours on end.
etc.
post #4420 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtt561 View Post

How would one abuse a tv?
I do not play video games and like to watch a lot of sports and movies.

I plugged mine in and set it to D_Nice's settings. Watched all kinds of input...sd cable,hdcable,dvd,hdhvd and now have 300 hours on it...looks awesome and as you go you will play with the settings and learn to adjust the set to your liking. Most importantly when learning to view your set in a "natural" way the setting will be much softer and it will take time getting used to it. But after a week go back to torch mode and you will not like it.
Plug that baby in....set it to a smooth and natural view(d-nice)....enjoy your new plasma!!
post #4421 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtt561 View Post

How would one abuse a tv?
I do not play video games and like to watch a lot of sports and movies.

Well, if mine doesn't do what I want, I slap it with my belt at night.
post #4422 of 12870
Hello everyone, I'm a new Pro-150FD owner and have a couple of questions that I've searched for answers but can't seem to find. I downloaded the Break-in DVD ISO and have burned to CD and DVD with no luck. I used Sonic to build the image and DVD Decryptor. I have a Denon DVD-955S that is SVCD compatible but can't seem to get the DVD to play. Any guidance is appreciated. Second question, are D-Nice's Motorola cable box settings what I should use after Break-in or what to settings to use if I don't have the DVD? Thanks and I apologize if these questions have been already addressed.
post #4423 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

1) in the "input 4" example, it's feeding audio to a avr via the "l/r" stereo plugs. no, you don't want to do this. in the "input 7" example, it's feeding everything to the tv (and i'm assuming using the tv's speakers). you don't want to do this either.

2) neither of the above is optimal. the way you have it set up now is better than either. others might argue about running separate video inputs to the tv to allow for separate adjustments, imo (and the opinion of at least one respected calibrator here), this is unnecessarily complicated.

3) what you are planning to do is the best way to do it.

My 6010 is supposed to arrive today - I was planning to have my 3 main HDMI sources (DTV HR20, Tosh. A20 & PS3) input to my Onkyo 805 and run that output to a single HDMI input of the 6010, as I currently do with my Sammy DLP.

Then this is generally frowned upon for losing the fine-tuning capabilities of each source huh?
post #4424 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woody54 View Post

My 6010 is supposed to arrive today - I was planning to have my 3 main HDMI sources (DTV HR20, Tosh. A20 & PS3) input to my Onkyo 805 and run that output to a single HDMI input of the 6010, as I currently do with my Sammy DLP.

Then this is generally frowned upon for losing the fine-tuning capabilities of each source huh?

well, some might frown upon it, but i wouldn't... that's how i have my system (tosh a20, bdp-s1, cable stb all to pio avr then 1 cable to 150fd) set up... see what i said in #2...
post #4425 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by roosterman68 View Post

I'm considering purchasing the 5080, the Sony XBR4 and the Samsung 71 series. I'm considering the Sony and the Samsung because of the demo I saw with a Pirates of the Carribean video (blue ray using Component signal which as I understand it means it is 720P) at a local big box store. It looked almost 3D on the XBR4 and 71 series. It blew me away. I have not seen the same DVD on the 5080.

Question... Will the 5080 look almost 3D like the XBR4 / Sammy 71? I know the Sammy has TBE and motion blur issues which is really scaring me and from what I've read the Sony has flashing / muir (sp?) issues.

Your experince / expertise is welcomed to help me make this decision.

I think you were having an initial "wow" reaction to the creation of artificial frames that's being done on these LCDs. Samsung calls it AMP, I'm not familiar with Sony's term. My opinion is that your "wow" would eventually get replaced with "yuck" as you began to notice that the effect creates visual artifacts and causes the movies to take on a weird non-movie-like feel.
post #4426 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcssnet View Post

Hello everyone, I'm a new Pro-150FD owner and have a couple of questions that I've searched for answers but can't seem to find. I downloaded the Break-in DVD ISO and have burned to CD and DVD with no luck. I used Sonic to build the image and DVD Decryptor. I have a Denon DVD-955S that is SVCD compatible but can't seem to get the DVD to play. Any guidance is appreciated. Second question, are D-Nice's Motorola cable box settings what I should use after Break-in or what to settings to use if I don't have the DVD? Thanks and I apologize if these questions have been already addressed.


I can't help you with the DVD part of your post. Re settings, though: D-Nice's for the Motorola are for use after break-in. If you don't use the DVD (and many of us, including me, haven't), just be sure you keep contrast relatively low (under 30) during the first 200 hours or so. And try to keep the screen full as much as you can (i.e., no black bars). If I was watching a 4:3 non-HD channel, I just stretched the picture. You can set it to automatically stretch, by the way. I kept my set on the Discovery channel when I wasn't watching, wasn't home, or was sleeping. It's on 24/7 and is also good because the logo is translucent. Also, if you use a DVD player and keep the TV on unattended, be sure the player is not set to turn off automatically. I hope this helps.
post #4427 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfz View Post

............ just be sure you keep contrast relatively low (under 30) during the first 200 hours or so.

This is wrong...... Phosphor needs the excitement to properly age. Setting contrast low does no favors in trying to "pre-age" the phosphors. It's like trying to get a deep tissue massage with a feather......

Normal viewing settings, just no stationary bright images, full screen as much as possible. Full white screen for 200 hours is best option.
post #4428 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC View Post

It's like trying to get a deep tissue massage with a feather......

I actually prefer feathers to deep massage....very erotic!
post #4429 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by brentsg View Post

I think you were having an initial "wow" reaction to the creation of artificial frames that's being done on these LCDs. Samsung calls it AMP, I'm not familiar with Sony's term. My opinion is that your "wow" would eventually get replaced with "yuck" as you began to notice that the effect creates visual artifacts and causes the movies to take on a weird non-movie-like feel.

I think he may also have been reacting to the high brightness of LCDs. Again, his reaction might be quite different once he got something like that home and found he didn't need anything near the brightness he saw in the store...unless he used sunglasses.
post #4430 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfz View Post

I can't help you with the DVD part of your post. Re settings, though: D-Nice's for the Motorola are for use after break-in. If you don't use the DVD (and many of us, including me, haven't), just be sure you keep contrast relatively low (under 30) during the first 200 hours or so. And try to keep the screen full as much as you can (i.e., no black bars). If I was watching a 4:3 non-HD channel, I just stretched the picture. You can set it to automatically stretch, by the way. I kept my set on the Discovery channel when I wasn't watching, wasn't home, or was sleeping. It's on 24/7 and is also good because the logo is translucent. Also, if you use a DVD player and keep the TV on unattended, be sure the player is not set to turn off automatically. I hope this helps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC View Post

This is wrong...... Phosphor needs the excitement to properly age. Setting contrast low does no favors in trying to "pre-age" the phosphors. It's like trying to get a deep tissue massage with a feather......

Normal viewing settings, just no stationary bright images, full screen as much as possible. Full white screen for 200 hours is best option.

Thank you each for your responses, GlenC you say full white screen for 200 is the best option. Pardon my ignorance but how does this differ and or relate to the recommend settings for and the use of the Break-in DVD? I love this TV, and have seen the images that have been posted. Since it's only been up for one day I can't say that my display matches the best of the images but it has it's moments. Then again I use comcast so I have to consider the source. I have not attempted to play a DVD yet, I just have the Denon 955s upscaling DVD player.
post #4431 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC View Post

This is wrong...... Phosphor needs the excitement to properly age. Setting contrast low does no favors in trying to "pre-age" the phosphors. It's like trying to get a deep tissue massage with a feather......

Normal viewing settings, just no stationary bright images, full screen as much as possible. Full white screen for 200 hours is best option.

How come the manufacturers do not mention anything about breaking in new plasmas?
Right now, I have my new Pio5080 set to D-nice's settings for use with a Scientific Box. If I understand this correctly, by doing this I am "pre-aging" the phosphors?
So after 150 hrs, the phosphors are pre-aged and I can change my settings to what I think looks the best? What would one's recommendation be on settings for the best look? Granted everyone has different opinions. Just looking for some advice to get my Pio looking the best it can. thanks
post #4432 of 12870
This is getting totally out of hand....

JUST USE YOUR NEW PLASMA NORMALLY!

As long as you don't leave a stationary image for a long, long time, you will be fine.

IT IS NOT EASY TO BURN IN A PLASMA. Not much easier, than it was to burn in a CRT. Really, I'd worry more about the 60' alligator coming out of the sewer....

Just enjoy the damn thing
post #4433 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan1 View Post

This is getting totally out of hand....

JUST USE YOUR NEW PLASMA NORMALLY!

As long as you don't leave a stationary image for a long, long time, you will be fine.

IT IS NOT EASY TO BURN IN A PLASMA. Not much easier, than it was to burn in a CRT.

Just enjoy the damn thing

My wife has been watching a lot of the QVC Home Shopping Channel lately on a 2.5 year old 50PX50U as evidenced by the nasty IR it leaves behind.
post #4434 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan1 View Post

This is getting totally out of hand....

JUST USE YOUR NEW PLASMA NORMALLY!

As long as you don't leave a stationary image for a long, long time, you will be fine.

IT IS NOT EASY TO BURN IN A PLASMA. Not much easier, than it was to burn in a CRT.

Just enjoy the damn thing

+1

I have three Pioneer plasmas: PRO-FHD1 (15 months old), PRO-1140 (12 months old), PRO-150FD (3 months old). I did not go through any break-in disks nor do I use a screen wipe mode. I have no image retention. I do not use the plasmas for games, and I don't watch any 4x3 programming without a stretch mode. That's it.
post #4435 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by optivity View Post

My wife has been watching a lot of the QVC Home Shopping Channel lately on a 2.5 year old 50PX50U as evidenced by the nasty IR it leaves behind.

He suggested just using a plasma normally.
post #4436 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by JFR0317 View Post

He suggested just using a plasma normally.

Read the warnings in your owner's manual about the risk of IR associated with the over use of black bars & static images, the manufacturer conveys this information for a reason.
post #4437 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by optivity View Post

Read the warnings in your owner’s manual about the risk of IR associated with the over use of black bars & static images, the manufacturer conveys this information for a reason.

Sorry. I was just trying to make a joke about QVC not being using it normally.

I do read the manufacturer's warnings and do take them seriously. That's why as I mentioned in an earlier post that I don't watch any 4x3 programming without using a stretch mode. I also am very careful not to leave any DVR images paused for more than a minute. I also don't watch QVC or play games on the sets. I think my point is that you just need to be prudent, but you don't have to do stuff like leave the set tuned to full screen programming for 5 hours immediately after watching a 2.35:1 movie. Also, there are many different opinions about the value of doing a break-in. I didn't do one on any of the sets. Two of them have been calibrated by UMR, and he didn't see any signs of image retention or burn-in.

As always, your mileage may vary, and there is nothing wrong with being careful. I just don't think there is a need to go over the top being careful, either.

Thanks for listening. Sorry again for the flippant post.
post #4438 of 12870
I have a new pro150. During the first 50 hours of break in a vertically oriented rectangular black box appeared on the screen measuring ~16 x 4 inches. In this area the picture is black the pixels appear dead. The remainder of the picture is normal. I have tried different sources and all the same. Has anyone else seen this? Should I return this unit or settle for a service call? Your input would be appreciated.
post #4439 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by raded View Post

I have a new pro150. During the first 50 hours of break in a vertically oriented rectangular black box appeared on the screen measuring ~16 x 4 inches. In this area the picture is black the pixels appear dead. The remainder of the picture is normal. I have tried different sources and all the same. Has anyone else seen this? Should I return this or settle for a service call? Your input would be appreciated.

that's not good (of course, you know that already).

return. if where you bought it will allow returns, that is.
post #4440 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by JFR0317 View Post

Sorry. I was just trying to make a joke about QVC not being using it normally.

I was not offended by your remark, it's my wife who needs more education about these things.
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