The Official Pioneer 8G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 208

I couldn't disagree more. The most spectaculer HDTV that I've watched since getting the 150 has been OTA NFL football broadcasts. The resolution of the field grass on the various broadcasts has been unlike that I've seen on any other set. The NBC Sunday nights have been incredidble.

I suspect that some of the field cameras may not be HD (especially true with golf) and look bad in comparison to the fixed stationary cameras.

I'm in the camp that OTA is better than Direct TV HDTV with sat compression and would use it every chance I get.

Hey all, happy 2008 to everone. Ive been reading this forum for quite a while and bought a pioneer pdp 5080hd this week. I saw the settings D Nice posted at the beginning of this forum. Now im not a tv guru. Having said that, what would be a good break in setting for my tv. Im just running comcast cable to it, no dvd player(i might buy a samsunge combi next month). The comcast box says Motorola DCH3200 if that matters. I have turned down the brightness and contrast till i can get some settings from you guys. Watched the football games on it last night. The picture is amazing. The 5080 went were an old sony 32 inch 300 lb tube tv went. I had to hit that one on the side to get it to work. Well it was 18 years old. If this tv works out ill replace my old 53xbr with a 6010. Anyway thanks , hope you have some break in setting for me.

The only anomoli I saw with blue in CS1 was on 2 occasions.
1: there was a large computer monitor in the background that had a light blue cast to it. almost like a light blue film was over it.
2:There were some buildings outside a window of an office in the background. The glass on those buildings was also reflecting the light blue tint.


Next round of testing I am going to pay attention to how CS1 and CS2 track compared to Gamma 2.2. I know in my CS2 calibrations when I set brightness and contrast using one of the calibration discs. The measured gamma curve tracks slightly low up to 60IRE and then has a slight bump between 60-90. This may have some bearing as to why the magenta/ purple issue seems more apparent in CS2 on lower brightness scene's compared to brighter scene's. I am taking in to account that I cannot rely on any measurments below 20 IRE as the meter is not sensitive enough to supply accurate data at low light levels.

A testing I will go.

It's likely that not all the cameras being used were HD, but if it looked as bad as you suggest then you likely have something wrong with the setup. But then again, you gave no details for anyone to help you.

Back when I posted the Color space charts to get red close to the standard point I had to move red in the CMS to 13 toward yellow.
To correct the grey scale tracking I had to set red high for 10 and red low to -13. I tried color level at a -2 as well as -6. Skin tones were correct as well as other colors, I did see a slight anomie with a different shade of blue as mentioned in my post previous to this. But the slight over saturation of skin tones on brighter scenes is what brings me back to CS2.
Gotta love the 150, gives us the adjustments that allows us to split hairs with an ax but leaves out others that drive us batty. If only we had saturation control in CMS then we would be ready for the rubber room.

WIDE CINEMA FULL - these are screen size selections using the pioneer remote. as far as my cable box my choices are zoom1, zoom2, normal, and stretch. the PQ for sports is devoid of all clarity and crispness during game action. when the whistle blows and they show close ups of the players walking back to the huddle the picture is amazing --perfect! however when they are at the line of scrimmage and the camera zooms the PQ again goes very bad. this back and forth continues the whole game.

I keep going back and forth between CS 1 and 2 also. I see the blue issue in CS2, but only occasionally. I end up using CS2 most of the time, because I just can't get the skin tones in CS1 to look consistently like what I see in the real world every day. Sometimes they look great. Other times they seem clearly off. By the way, I sometimes find myself missing what people are saying, "spacing out" in discussions - just generally missing half of what's going on around me these days - all because I'm scanning all the faces and different skin tones there are in the world. I wonder if there's a psychiatric diagnosis for this

Anyway, blue being off occasionally is easier for me to tolerate than skin tones (reds and oranges too) being off. I'm keeping an open mind and enjoying this discussion, as others are.

[quote=voigtskins;12882103]I have a 6010FD and the picture looks great but i need opinion on settings. I have a Oppo 980h DVD player which i have set at 480I to the Integra 9.8 processor. I have the Scientific Atlanta cable box set to 1080I to the Integra 9.8. I have the Integra 9.8 set to 1080P using the Reon settings in the Intgra.The Integra is going to the 6010FD in 1080P mode.They are all hooked up with HDMI 1.3 cables to the Integra and then to the 6010FD with HDMI 1.3 .I know the 6010 FD puts out 1080P so am i doing TOO much converting in the Integra before it goes to the 6010FD????? Can i do it another way so i use less coverision????? Please let me know yuor opinions as i want to have the best possible picture on my 6010FD. It looks real good with D-Nices setting but worried about too much conv. Thanks for your opinions. Could you answer my questings as to my coversions if they are correct for the 6010 !!!!

This is a known condition: "Obsessive Over Analyzing", "Nit Picking" or "The Pursuit of Video Perfection".
I prefer the last choice although I think it may never be reached in my lifetime.
Pioneer is getting closer.

You should really spend some time reading the manual, then post your settings here for some feedback. It appears that you have WIDE enabled, which should be FULL. WIDE will stretch the image left to right and make things look bad. I wouldn't be using Optimum either but that's more subjective. The settings on your cable box are important too, as is the method that you have it connected to the TV.

People won't be able to help you unless you post more detailed information.

I noticed the very same thing. I am not sure that MSU has not either changed the color of their jerseys or were wearing some special jersey. I have been to Williams Arena (the barn) on several occasions and all of the other colors looked correct. The Gopher uniforms looked correct as did the floor. I tried to look at the MSU fans garb to see if that green looked off but could not tell. I switched between the factory preset optimum settings as well as the D-Nice reference settings and the green looked the same shade.

I want the best settings for my 6010FD

If you want the best settings for your display then have it professionally calibrated. If you want the best free settings then you'll use the settings on the first page of this thread as a starting point, then tweak for your display and personal taste from there.

Check out post # 4 in this thread. The 6010/5010 "reference settings" are great starting points; then you can tweak settings from there according to your individual 6010 and personal tastes. Beyond that, look into getting an ISF calibration ....

I believe one of the most common color errors you see in broadcasting is that of flesh tones. I think it's perfectly natural to see this variation with either color space. I've been in control rooms of ABC and CBS and I've seen exactly the same variation in skin tones on professional studio monitors.

Simply look at the extreme variation in skin tones when more than 1 camera is used in a controlled-lighting studio. One camera will show what looks like a natural skin tone and the other, obviously mis-adjusted, will show something different.

There is a definite difference in the skin tones of CBS & NBC newscasts. Here in N.Y., local HD newscasts differ with NBC's skin tones looking extraordinarily good and CBS's looking a bit redder. The same is true of the late night shows with Letterman & Leno. They produce two very different skin tones. Watch some of the video on channels such as Discovery HD or National Geographic HD and you'll see skin tones all over the place.

One of the more interesting comparisons is when we have early morning HD newscasts in N.Y. on NBC. While doing the local HD newscast, they do a split-screen promo for the upcoming HD Today show. The difference in skin tones in the split screen display is unreal...and this is with either CS1 or CS2. You just learn to accept it.

So the bottom line here is that you must be very careful when judging if one color space is right or wrong relative to reality by simply assessing flesh tones. I don't think there's any better indicator of sloppiness in broadcasting than the inconsistent flesh tones we see.

Which probably sums up in a nutshell why I prefer CS1. To these eyes it looks more like the real-world perhaps because of its somewhat broader color palette.

I hereby throw my hat in the ring for the next committee to discuss Rec 710! I promise to fix the things that drive us nuts with Rec709.

Pure Cinema Settings

I asked the question in the owners thread, but I want to hear some opinions here, too.

If I am feeding 24Hz material into the Kuro, what are the differences between the 4 Pure Cinema modes (off/standard/smooth/advance)? Do I really get a 3:3 pulldown in "Advance"? Does anyone notice any less judder in Advance?

If I am feeding 1080p60 material, what do the modes do? Is there any Pioneer documentation on this?

Sorry if this has been covered, but I fail to find any definitive post on this. The manual is useless.

The trick is making sure your source is really delivering the display 24hz. I know with several devices you need to jump through firmware update hoops and such. And even then it's not a slam dunk.

Of course this will get easier as this gets more common.

OK, thanks. I think this agrees with what I read on the owners thread:

"Standard doubles the 24fps to 48 and every 4th frame is duplicated so you get a 1, 2, 3, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 8, etc. cadence. It's nothing special... very much like the inverse telecine in lots of components. The frame rate is 60Hz."

So Advance is the only mode where the refresh rate is 72Hz, correct? Do owners prefer this mode when showing 24Hz material to avoid the 3:2 pulldown judder?

If you feed the TV 1080p60 material, does Advance do a reverse pulldown, get the 24Hz frames, and do a 3:3 pulldown? TIA.

i have a question for d-nice or anyone who can answer. i'm finally getting my 110fd and came back to print out the settings for the individual sources. i now see the reference settings and day settings. is it better to use those settings for all sources (dtv hd dvr, xbox360, ps3 and upconvert dvd player) instead of individual settings?? sorry if it has already been answered..

I am using these settings since break-in and very happy .My questions are in regards to my coversion between the units i have mentioned in my original post. I am getting a calibration and a Bluray player!!!!

but my lcd didnt have this problem-picture always looked the same

5010fd using updated reference settings ala d-nice
SA 8300HD box via hdmi set to 16:9 wide with stretch

i want to be clear here- everything else i have watched; SD, movies in HD, all other cable broadcasts in HD - all look amazing. my problem is live moving sports programming. the players look like ghosts or their sharpness and clarity is completely nonexistent

Perhaps it's your cable provider's compression?