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The Official Pioneer 8G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 209

post #6241 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by brentsg View Post

Perhaps it's your cable provider's compression?

i think that this is the correct answer to the poster's problem... it sure sounds like a source related issue...

op... go to the hdtv programming threads and find your locality and check to see what issues others are having...
post #6242 of 12870
EVERYWHERE I read shows using color temp LOW on 5080HD, i've come to the conclusion my set must be BROKEN because I can't watch ANYTHING in low, set to medium my whites look spot-on and colors rich and nice, set to low white becomes dull and almost red! and overall there is just way too much red in the picture

my stock RGB high gains are 245/256/238, i've tried reducing the red gain to ~225-230ish, but still, I cannot make low look right at all... set is a june 2007 build, i have no idea why medium color temp is sooooooo much closer on my set?

I mean seriously, it's nasty and unwatchable in color temp low on any source regardless of other user settings *scratches head*
post #6243 of 12870
quick question... does anybody knows why in
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post10743815 settings i cannot change Pure Cinema Film Mode? Right now i have Off and i want to change to standard but i can;t :S any idea?
i have pdp 5010fd
post #6244 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeld View Post

but my lcd didnt have this problem-picture always looked the same

Go check out the '71 series Samsung LCD owners thread. The games cameras focusing was seen by them as well.
post #6245 of 12870
i was not in hdmi mode. it changed everything. hockey and basketball now look totally incredible. i am now a 5010fd believer!! halellujah!!!
post #6246 of 12870
Hello, I have a Tivo HD with cablecard running through my NAD T775 receiver with HDMI as a pass through to my 150FD. When I watch SD channels like CNN, I notice the upper and lower logo's are cutoff. I tried scrolling through screen sizes but without luck. Is there anything I can do to have a better view of SD channels?

Thanks,
Scott
post #6247 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrescendoM3 View Post

Hello, I have a Tivo HD with cablecard running through my NAD T775 receiver with HDMI as a pass through to my 150FD. When I watch SD channels like CNN, I notice the upper and lower logo's are cutoff. I tried scrolling through screen sizes but without luck. Is there anything I can do to have a better view of SD channels?

Thanks,
Scott

yes u can use av selection mode dot by dot
post #6248 of 12870
While watching the New England game Sunday, I noticed that the red jackets worn by the sidelines crew looked unreal - like way oversaturated. They looked like red-orange blobs. It really bothered me.

Anyone else notice it? What causes that? Poor camera set up?

I have a 6010, not ISF calibrated, but using D-Nice's current reference settings. This was via Comcast HD channel and Motorola box.
post #6249 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

You are at the mercy of your service provider for Ant A. Ant B....well you are taking an analog signal that has no more than 200 lines of resolution and blowing it up to 1080 lines of resolution. Not even God himself would be able to create a miracle to help that.

AMEN to that!

post #6250 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by johni View Post

While watching the New England game Sunday, I noticed that the red jackets worn by the sidelines crew looked unreal - like way oversaturated. They looked like red-orange blobs. It really bothered me.

Anyone else notice it? What causes that? Poor camera set up?

I have a 6010, not ISF calibrated, but using D-Nice's current reference settings. This was via Comcast HD channel and Motorola box.

I have the same setup that you have, and I didn't see any problem with red jackets. Our box is the Motorola DCT6412 III.

Are you using a HDMI connection? The Motorola box or your signal strength might also be a problem. The PQ was very good in the San Francisco Bay Area.
post #6251 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by voigtskins View Post

I have a 6010FD and the picture looks great but i need opinion on settings. I have a Oppo 980h DVD player which i have set at 480I to the Integra 9.8 processor. I have the Scientific Atlanta cable box set to 1080I to the Integra 9.8. I have the Integra 9.8 set to 1080P using the Reon settings in the Intgra.The Integra is going to the 6010FD in 1080P mode.They are all hooked up with HDMI 1.3 cables to the Integra and then to the 6010FD with HDMI 1.3 .I know the 6010 FD puts out 1080P so am i doing TOO much converting in the Integra before it goes to the 6010FD????? Can i do it another way so i use less coverision????? Please let me know yuor opinions as i want to have the best possible picture on my 6010FD. It looks real good with D-Nices setting but worried about too much conv. Thanks for your opinions!!!

somone answer as to if my conv. are set up corr. thanks
post #6252 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by johni View Post

While watching the New England game Sunday, I noticed that the red jackets worn by the sidelines crew looked unreal - like way oversaturated. They looked like red-orange blobs. It really bothered me.

Anyone else notice it? What causes that? Poor camera set up?

I have a 6010, not ISF calibrated, but using D-Nice's current reference settings. This was via Comcast HD channel and Motorola box.

I see the same thing with my 4280. There are also noticeable artifacts with panning (look at the first down markers as the camera pans). Turning the saturation down helps some. I'm using a D* H20 via HDMI. I've tried component too and it's not any different in regards to this. This doesn't seem to be an issue for me with 720p broadcasts, only 1080i.
post #6253 of 12870
I'm playing a bit, calibrating my 508/elite using a I1 Display LT sensor + HCFR.

Using color space 1, it was impossible to set red and green inside the CIE chart (that's maybe why they call it "Vivid"?); looks better with color space 2.

One strange thing is that yellow is quite outside of CIE's triangle, with both color spaces, regardless the input (I had a go with satellite pattern and DVD using DVE patterns)

Attaching CIE charts in color space 2 domain.

Did anyone experienced same results or could it depend on the sensor, whose reputation is not so good?
LL
LL
post #6254 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Ross View Post

I believe one of the most common color errors you see in broadcasting is that of flesh tones. I think it's perfectly natural to see this variation with either color space. I've been in control rooms of ABC and CBS and I've seen exactly the same variation in skin tones on professional studio monitors.

Simply look at the extreme variation in skin tones when more than 1 camera is used in a controlled-lighting studio. One camera will show what looks like a natural skin tone and the other, obviously mis-adjusted, will show something different.

There is a definite difference in the skin tones of CBS & NBC newscasts. Here in N.Y., local HD newscasts differ with NBC's skin tones looking extraordinarily good and CBS's looking a bit redder. The same is true of the late night shows with Letterman & Leno. They produce two very different skin tones. Watch some of the video on channels such as Discovery HD or National Geographic HD and you'll see skin tones all over the place.

One of the more interesting comparisons is when we have early morning HD newscasts in N.Y. on NBC. While doing the local HD newscast, they do a split-screen promo for the upcoming HD Today show. The difference in skin tones in the split screen display is unreal...and this is with either CS1 or CS2. You just learn to accept it.

So the bottom line here is that you must be very careful when judging if one color space is right or wrong relative to reality by simply assessing flesh tones. I don't think there's any better indicator of sloppiness in broadcasting than the inconsistent flesh tones we see.

I agree completely with what you are saying, Ken. What I was saying (poorly!) was two things: one was that - in general - so far I like the skin tones better in CS2 most of the time. The other was that I am noticing tremendous variation in skin tones *in real life* (in the few moments that I'm away from my TV . I'm paying so much attention to these variations in real life that I fear I'm going to need a psychiatric diagnosis soon
post #6255 of 12870
New owner of the Pro150FD. I have tried both DNice and Ken's settings while I watched Die Hard 4 bluray last night. I found that while using DNice's settings, night scenes are dead on beautiful while scenes which had daylight in them made everyone look very very pale.

While using Ken's settings, I found that daylight scenes where much more vibrant in that everyone's skin tones looked a lot more fleshy, but I find that when there are scenes at night, Ken's settings seem to add a blue tint on everything which is rather annoying because I find myself switching back to DNice's settings for night scenes and vice versa for day scenes. Ken have you noticed this effect while watching dark scenes? and for those of you using DNice's settings, are flesh tones suppose to be that pale?

Thanks
post #6256 of 12870
i have my 5080 connected to an H20 D* receiver and want to select only one resolution in the H20 options so as to have faster channel changing, which would be better 720p or the 1080i, thanks.
post #6257 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeLLSpiRE View Post

New owner of the Pro150FD. I have tried both DNice and Ken's settings while I watched Die Hard 4 bluray last night. I found that while using DNice's settings, night scenes are dead on beautiful while scenes which had daylight in them made everyone look very very pale.

While using Ken's settings, I found that daylight scenes where much more vibrant in that everyone's skin tones looked a lot more fleshy, but I find that when there are scenes at night, Ken's settings seem to add a blue tint on everything which is rather annoying because I find myself switching back to DNice's settings for night scenes and vice versa for day scenes. Ken have you noticed this effect while watching dark scenes? and for those of you using DNice's settings, are flesh tones suppose to be that pale?

Thanks

I haven't noticed that at all actually. I'd be very sensitive to a 'too blue' dark range, so it's probably nothing more than a set to set variation. Also, very important to note, remember that blue will be very hot on a brand new set. My settings were for an 'aged' set with several hundred hours on it, so I could see where they might be too blue under some conditions with a new set.
post #6258 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by blutarsky View Post

I'm playing a bit, calibrating my 508/elite using a I1 Display LT sensor + HCFR.

Using color space 1, it was impossible to set red and green inside the CIE chart (that's maybe why they call it "Vivid"?); looks better with color space 2.

One strange thing is that yellow is quite outside of CIE's triangle, with both color spaces, regardless the input (I had a go with satellite pattern and DVD using DVE patterns)

Attaching CIE charts in color space 2 domain.

Did anyone experienced same results or could it depend on the sensor, whose reputation is not so good?

I have some similar doubt on the green measurment of my Spyder 2 platinum sensor. But when I double check it using the color decoder test pattern and the rgb filters the optical checks verify the spyder results. I eventually plan on getting the I1pro as it is supposed to be more accurate with the color space measurments.
In your case I would lean toward meter error.
post #6259 of 12870
[quote=voigtskins;12883117]
Quote:
Originally Posted by voigtskins View Post

I have a 6010FD and the picture looks great but i need opinion on settings. I have a Oppo 980h DVD player which i have set at 480I to the Integra 9.8 processor. I have the Scientific Atlanta cable box set to 1080I to the Integra 9.8. I have the Integra 9.8 set to 1080P using the Reon settings in the Intgra.The Integra is going to the 6010FD in 1080P mode.They are all hooked up with HDMI 1.3 cables to the Integra and then to the 6010FD with HDMI 1.3 .I know the 6010 FD puts out 1080P so am i doing TOO much converting in the Integra before it goes to the 6010FD????? Can i do it another way so i use less coverision????? Please let me know yuor opinions as i want to have the best possible picture on my 6010FD. It looks real good with D-Nices setting but worried about too much conv. Thanks for your opinions. Could you answer my questings as to my coversions if they are correct for the 6010 !!!!

I have a very similar setup and would also like to hear some input too.
post #6260 of 12870
Thread Starter 
For best PQ, remove the Reon processing. Set the Integra to send unprocessed signals to the Kuro.
post #6261 of 12870
Ran the rest of the tests that I thought would lead to some kind of conclusion and they were inconclusive (go figure).

I also ran a color pattern generator program on my media center PC which gave me The ability to display the primary and secondary colors each individually. I was able to run the colors at full screen and at brightness levels from 100% down to 10% in 10% increments. I ran the test in blue, cyan and magenta. I did not see any color shift from start to finish.

This brings me back to my WAG that there is a very pinpoint area of blue that either has a color decoder error (doubtful) or the magenta tint becomes additive to the particular blue being displayed making it look purple?

To finish the night off I found a discovery special on the Blue Angles air show. I have seen this before on my other displays but this is the first time I saw it on the Pro150. Let me just insert a WOW . Nothing short of spectacular.

I have seen these aircraft up close and personal, they are a good test for this blue issue (very deep royal blue). I was let down, blue stayed blue. There were times I thought I was starting to see a shift toward purple but it was just the level of lighting.

There was a moment when I was going to press pause to switch to CS1 settings but I noticed a person in the background with a purple ball cap on (vikings purple). Having that as a reference right on top of the plane itself showed the plane was still Royal blue.

I am going to lock up my test equipment and stop nitpicking this awesome display. I might become anal again once I get an I1pro but until then I will just enjoy.
post #6262 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

For best PQ, remove the Reon processing. Set the Integra to send unprocessed signals to the Kuro.

This question has been on my mind for the last few weeks. I have a Pro-150FD, a Denon 4308Ci with PS3 blu-ray and SA8300 sources. At this time, other then setting the PS3 to 1080p output, I try to configure it to allow the source to use it's native output (SA8300, PS3 both via HDMI) with the Denon just passing it through assuming the Kuro has the best processing of the 3. Does that sound like the best strategy for overall picture quality?
post #6263 of 12870
Thread Starter 
Yes
post #6264 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by eddiscus View Post

I have some similar doubt on the green measurment of my Spyder 2 platinum sensor. But when I double check it using the color decoder test pattern and the rgb filters the optical checks verify the spyder results. I eventually plan on getting the I1pro as it is supposed to be more accurate with the color space measurments.
In your case I would lean toward meter error.

I've been told in the forums that proper plasma calibration requires small areas patterns due to power drain when @ fullscreen. I've used DVE patterns and they're all fullscreen, so I'll have a go with Tom Huffmans or HCFR DVDs and see if the problem is still there.

If this is true I'm quite dispappointed because I did find a satellite pattern and had the illusion I could calibrate satellite input...
post #6265 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by blutarsky View Post

I've been told in the forums that proper plasma calibration requires small areas patterns due to power drain when @ fullscreen. I've used DVE patterns and they're all fullscreen, so I'll have a go with Tom Huffmans or HCFR DVDs and see if the problem is still there.

If this is true I'm quite dispappointed because I did find a satellite pattern and had the illusion I could calibrate satellite input...

There are protection functions which gradually decrease average picture level (maximum count of plasma discharge actually) as a function of heat, still images (after three minutes) and bright windows. Obviously a full screen 100 IRE will generate more heat than a 100 IRE window, however a 100 IRE window (which is also a still image) will also activate some decrease in APL. Only specific measurement could tell us how much the decrease is over a particular time period and thus how it might affect calibration.

Calibrators: any input?
post #6266 of 12870
BTW, just last night I've discovered that those panels (at least mine) suffer a bit from image retention. I've left the TV for about 20 minutes on the same pluge pattern and when changed the input to a fullscreen gray pattern I could notice the shade of the patterns..... After a while watching tv they've disappeared. My tv set has some 450/500 hrs running.
post #6267 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeLLSpiRE View Post

New owner of the Pro150FD. I have tried both DNice and Ken's settings while I watched Die Hard 4 bluray last night. I found that while using DNice's settings, night scenes are dead on beautiful while scenes which had daylight in them made everyone look very very pale.

While using Ken's settings, I found that daylight scenes where much more vibrant in that everyone's skin tones looked a lot more fleshy, but I find that when there are scenes at night, Ken's settings seem to add a blue tint on everything which is rather annoying because I find myself switching back to DNice's settings for night scenes and vice versa for day scenes. Ken have you noticed this effect while watching dark scenes? and for those of you using DNice's settings, are flesh tones suppose to be that pale?

Thanks

I see a wide variation in skin tones with my 110 - very wide. It has made me much more cognizant that there is actually a very wide variation in skin tones
in real life as well. I suggest that you watch a lot more programming before you conclude that either of the settings you've tried are "off". As Ken said, I think giving the set more time will may result in more accuracy as well. Finally, there is panel to panel variation - so the settings they have supplied may not be exactly right for your set. What I do is start with something that is recommended, and then make small incremental adjustments. I document the changes - and what I think of them - as well. That way I can go back to check earlier settings. I'm a tweaker. You may decide that you want to settle on something earlier than I have. Good luck!
post #6268 of 12870
This thread has quickly become an 'Elite' thread. Any reason to get a non-elite kuro thread going?
post #6269 of 12870
Thread Starter 
Unfortunately, there is only so much you can do with the non-Elites.
post #6270 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by johni View Post

While watching the New England game Sunday, I noticed that the red jackets worn by the sidelines crew looked unreal - like way oversaturated. They looked like red-orange blobs. It really bothered me.

Anyone else notice it? What causes that? Poor camera set up?

I have a 6010, not ISF calibrated, but using D-Nice's current reference settings. This was via Comcast HD channel and Motorola box.

I noticed this on my FD150 as well. Thought it might be the settings, but then I watched the Packer/Giant game on CBS and presumably the same orange objects (side line markers, etc) looked fine. Maybe something to do with the broadcast/camera used by the different networks (CBS vs Fox?). I use HDMI from my moto cable box.
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