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The Official Pioneer 8G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 227

post #6781 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by wzpgsr View Post

"Lost" on the other hand, looked terrible. I started out watching through the SA 8300HD. A lot of the scenes in the recent recaps and last night's premiere were shot in dark foliage. In these scenes, everyone's skin seemed to take on a posterized, moonish glow. Shadow detail was essentially non-existent. The brighter scenes weren't as bad, but they still left a lot to be desired—especially with the yellowish rendering of the ever-present foliage. Figuring it might be something with the cable box, I switched to OTA but experienced the same kind of thing.

I thought Lost was better than it has ever looked on my 4280. Lots of deep dark scenes with much more shadow detail than I'm used to seeing on my front pj. This was via D* MPEG2 HD DNS.

I keep DRE off FYI but I'm not sure if this explains the difference in our impressions or not.
post #6782 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garman View Post

Right now I am using a over the air Ant. I plan on hooking up DirecTV to it today or when I get back next week. I haven't run the TV guide thing yet, but I am running just some rabbit ears till this TV gets mounted on the wall.

Beowulf57: No idea, it has only happen twice so far, I am running the D-Nice break in DVD for the last couple of days. It almost seems like it goes into a shut down mode the only way to restart the TV is to hit power button, then it goes red, and hit it again and comes right back on. Seems odd..... I don't think it is a power supply issue, because it ran of 6-7 hours fine.

Trackman: Have you run the TV guide setup, of did you bypass it? I read some where that this needs to be done, otherwise the internal clock of the TV isn't set resulting in this issue? I am of course guess at this..

Well I called Pioneer and they said it was an internal problem with the TV, and not related to the TV Guide Setup.... Well this is just great.... Frankly I don't see these service techs know what there talking about..


Yes, I set up the TV Guide and it has worked well. I believe the issue was somehow connected to poor/fluctuating signal strength - at least that's the only external factor I could identify.
post #6783 of 12870
I have found the Ultimate tweek for my Pioneer PRO150FD. I was wondering why my Plasma just didn't seem as sharp and clear as all my previous Sony's. I tried everything setting after setting, combination after combination. Replaced F connectors, Cables, Tried different sources. I finally got it. My wife set up a appointment with the local Optomerist ( Eye Doctor). All I had ever worn was Reading Glasses. Got prescription. Went Eye glass store. Wa-La, Best tweek for Video I've had in a long time. I had No Idea I was losing that much detail from 6 Feet On. Cost was $ 59.00 Eye exam + $ 200.00 Glasses = $259.00 Total. Now when I get that ISF Calibration. The Sky's the Limit. Just thought I would let you"all know about this. It really is remarkable for a Video Buff. Think About it.
Bring on that Damn SUPERBOWL,
Glenee
post #6784 of 12870
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wakeaustin View Post

D-nice,
When I put in the reference settings on my 5080 it will not give me the option to put the film mode in standard. I have it hooked up to my high def. cable box through and hdmi. It only allows me to pick from off, smooth, and advance. Which should I choose? Thanks.

Standard is not available with 720p/1080p60 signals. Check the input signal.
post #6785 of 12870
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by daniel'son View Post

wakeaustin,

possibly 'advanced' ..

fwiw, i may use these settings for my break-in; I drew them from a site for proper 5080hd break-in .. don't know how they differ & definitely don't intend to offend D-Nice for his exceptional work/advice/contributions here, but maypossibly be an alternative:

Everything is set to 30. That doesn't make sense.
post #6786 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Everything is set to 30. That doesn't make sense.

I was hoping for yr feedback, cause it seemed abit odd to me also. Will more than likely use yr break-in rather than arbituary post.

Thanks most respectfully.
post #6787 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by daniel'son View Post

wakeaustin,

possibly 'advanced' ..

fwiw, i may use these settings for my break-in; I drew them from a site for proper 5080hd break-in .. don't know how they differ & definitely don't intend to offend D-Nice for his exceptional work/advice/contributions here, but maypossibly be an alternative:

30 everywhere? your eyes will be tearing!

also, in NY this is called efficiency? i guess thats a NY word only?

finally, proper calibration uses less power? how? green isnt = blue in terms of power?

very strange, i dont follow at all..
post #6788 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by leo95se View Post

30 everywhere? your eyes will be tearing!

also, in NY this is called efficiency? i guess thats a NY word only?

finally, proper calibration uses less power? how? green isnt = blue in terms of power?

very strange, i dont follow at all..

thanks for the response; that 'save.doc' is officially in the 'Trash' bin.
post #6789 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

For those of you who are brave enough to play with your SM RGB controls here are some offsets you can try.

R-High +3
G-High 0 (no change)
B-High -10
R-Low -12
G-Low 0 (no change)
B-Low -13

You can use them with these settings:

Main Menu:
AV Selection: User
Contrast: 27
Brightness: 0
Color: -12
Tint: Red 1
Sharpness: -15


Pro Adjust

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Standard
Text Optimization: Off


Picture Detail:

DRE Picture: Off
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Enhancer Mode: 2
Gamma: 3


Color Detail:

Color Temp: Mid

CTI: Off


Noise Reduction:

3DNR: Off
Field NR: Off


Power Save Mode: Off

Orbiter: On


Just remember:

-If you have no clue what you are doing in the SM, do not enter it.
-I will not advise you how to access the SM
-You screw up your panel, its your fault. Do not ask me for any assistance.


Good luck and enjoy.

Hey I noticed on mine, with 1080p/24 sources there's another RGB table with slightly different settings, set both to these rgb values? what about abl?
post #6790 of 12870
Someone else on this thread -- can't remember who -- posted SM tweaks similar to D nice's a few months back. I really like them -- thanks D! Everyone be sure to note that you need to switch to Mid color temp with those tweaks.
post #6791 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by optimus_p View Post

nuance: I thought there was not a master reset for the service menu options?

Just so we are on the same page I am not talking the user menu where your picture/sound/hdmi control/options/sleep timer are.

There isn't. If you were talking about the regular picture settings, there is a master reset. If you are talking about the Service Menu, there is no master reset. The settings are provided were my factory settings. As mentioned earlier, each will vary from screen to screen, however.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wzpgsr View Post

I am pretty damn satisfied with my 5080. In nearly every case, the experience viewing quality HD source material on it trumps the experience on my recently departed Sony 34XBR910. Having said that, I was shocked at how poorly ABC's "Lost" looked over the past couple of nights.

My SA 8300HD is connected to the 5080 via component. I also have an antenna connected to the 5080's Antenna A for OTA HD broadcasts. I am using D-Nice's 5080 reference settings (or ever-so-slightly modified versions thereof) on all my inputs. Most of the HD content I throw at this set looks fantastic.

"Lost" on the other hand, looked terrible. I started out watching through the SA 8300HD. A lot of the scenes in the recent recaps and last night's premiere were shot in dark foliage. In these scenes, everyone's skin seemed to take on a posterized, moonish glow. Shadow detail was essentially non-existent. The brighter scenes weren't as bad, but they still left a lot to be desired—especially with the yellowish rendering of the ever-present foliage. Figuring it might be something with the cable box, I switched to OTA but experienced the same kind of thing.

Given that other "dark" HD content has looked fantastic on the 5080, I can't fathom why this particular show looks so bad. I don't watch much ABC, so I don't know if it is frequently this bad. Compared to CBS OTA, it stinks. Watching "Lost" last night was the only time in the 2 weeks I've had the set that the picture quality actually detracted from my enjoyment of the show.

I figure that the problem could be with the national feed or with the local NYC affiliate (because it looked like crap OTA and cable) but I was hoping someone else with a 5080 could chime in to verify whether they saw what I was seeing. The show never looked this bad on my 34XBR910.

I'd say it was the National Feed. Lost looked amazing on my 5080HD last night, however. What are your picture settings?


D-Nice, you adjusted the Low values? I thought some of the well known calibrators warned us not to do that, not to mention one of the A/V mags that reviewed the 5080HD. I mean no offense; just curious.
post #6792 of 12870
ARGH!!!! TV did it again during my break in DVD, TV shut down and blinks 12 times and then shut off... 4 time now in a week..... WTF? I would love to just exchange the set, but it looks like they are out of them..... Is there a fix for this? I see this was a big issue on some of the 7G series.
post #6793 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

For those of you who are brave enough to play with your SM RGB controls here are some offsets you can try......
Good luck and enjoy.

D-Nice : Just wondering, what sensor / software are you using to calibrate the sets?

Are the SM RGB controls in the 6010 used for all inputs or you calibrate each input?

Can a Spyder II with HCFR be used with a plasma, do you leave the fliter on the II?
post #6794 of 12870
I'm in the service menu where are the rgb controls?
post #6795 of 12870
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackLT View Post

D-Nice : Just wondering, what sensor / software are you using to calibrate the sets?

PR-655 (previously I posted I had a PR-650, but it's actually a 655...my bad) with colorfacts 7.

Quote:
Are the SM RGB controls in the 6010 used for all inputs or you calibrate each input?

All

Quote:
Can a Spyder II with HCFR be used with a plasma,

It can, however, I don't know anything about it's accuracy.

Quote:
do you leave the fliter on the II?

Don't know.
post #6796 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

For those of you who are brave enough to play with your SM RGB controls here are some offsets you can try.

R-High +3
G-High 0 (no change)
B-High -10
R-Low -12
G-Low 0 (no change)
B-Low -13

You can use them with these settings:

Main Menu:
AV Selection: User
Contrast: 27
Brightness: 0
Color: -12
Tint: Red 1
Sharpness: -15


Pro Adjust

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Standard
Text Optimization: Off


Picture Detail:

DRE Picture: Off
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Enhancer Mode: 2
Gamma: 3


Color Detail:

Color Temp: Mid

CTI: Off


Noise Reduction:

3DNR: Off
Field NR: Off


Power Save Mode: Off

Orbiter: On


Just remember:

-If you have no clue what you are doing in the SM, do not enter it.
-I will not advise you how to access the SM
-You screw up your panel, its your fault. Do not ask me for any assistance.


Good luck and enjoy.

WOW! you just saved me from returning my set for an elite, regardless of SM tweaks i've tried i've always thought LOW was way too yellowy whites and too red and medium was the better of the two, but it needed to be inbetween

using your specified SM settings with my DCT-6412 in RGB mode over HDMI it's looking great, however in your user settings mine are as such:

Main Menu:
AV Selection: User
Contrast: 28
Brightness: -2 (higher NEVER looks good to me, fairly dark room)
Color: -3 (not sure if this is due to the cablebox or i like too much color)
Tint: Red 1
Sharpness: +5 (i like the edge enhancement, <0 looks too soft to me)


Pro Adjust

Pure Cinema

Film Mode: Standard
Text Optimization: Off


Picture Detail:

DRE Picture: Low (too washed without this)
Black Level: Off
ACL: Off
Enhancer Mode: 2
Gamma: 3 (go between this and 1 depending on material)


Color Detail:

Color Temp: Mid

CTI: Off


Noise Reduction:

3DNR: Off
Field NR: Off


Power Save Mode: Off

Orbiter: On

BTW my SM ended up at:

R-High 248
G-High 256
B-High 228
R-Low 500
G-Low 512
B-Low 499
ABL 125

I'm pretty surprised, now it looks like I have the flesh tones of LOW color temp without the yellow whites and red tinge
post #6797 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by wzpgsr View Post

I am pretty damn satisfied with my 5080. In nearly every case, the experience viewing quality HD source material on it trumps the experience on my recently departed Sony 34XBR910. Having said that, I was shocked at how poorly ABC's "Lost" looked over the past couple of nights.

My SA 8300HD is connected to the 5080 via component. I also have an antenna connected to the 5080's Antenna A for OTA HD broadcasts. I am using D-Nice's 5080 reference settings (or ever-so-slightly modified versions thereof) on all my inputs. Most of the HD content I throw at this set looks fantastic.

"Lost" on the other hand, looked terrible. I started out watching through the SA 8300HD. A lot of the scenes in the recent recaps and last night's premiere were shot in dark foliage. In these scenes, everyone's skin seemed to take on a posterized, moonish glow. Shadow detail was essentially non-existent. The brighter scenes weren't as bad, but they still left a lot to be desired—especially with the yellowish rendering of the ever-present foliage. Figuring it might be something with the cable box, I switched to OTA but experienced the same kind of thing.

Given that other "dark" HD content has looked fantastic on the 5080, I can't fathom why this particular show looks so bad. I don't watch much ABC, so I don't know if it is frequently this bad. Compared to CBS OTA, it stinks. Watching "Lost" last night was the only time in the 2 weeks I've had the set that the picture quality actually detracted from my enjoyment of the show.

I figure that the problem could be with the national feed or with the local NYC affiliate (because it looked like crap OTA and cable) but I was hoping someone else with a 5080 could chime in to verify whether they saw what I was seeing. The show never looked this bad on my 34XBR910.


I also watched LOST on my 5080 last night in Chicago. I too thought that the picture quality was lacking. I also switched between OTA and Dish Network, but found both were producing bad pq.

I also agree that the dark scenes were bad. Shadow detail seemed lost, images looked very flat. And, often times, I was seeing slight shimmering in blocks of color.

However, because of a storm, the broadcast kept going to 4:3 SD whenever the warnings came on. That's when I realized that the SD looked terrible too. Even worse. I could barely even make out faces in the dark scenes. Every problem I was seeing in HD was much worse that I think it should have been in SD.

I have about 100 hours of break-in, and am using D-Nice's settings with very minor tweaks to contrast, color, and sharpness.
post #6798 of 12870
Here's how to get into the SM and apply D-Nice's settings. Please note, we are not and will not be held responsible for what you do when you get in there and start poking around/changing things.

Once in the SM hit "Mute" until you see the menu called "Panel Factory (+)." Hit "Enter" and use the up or down arrow to navigate until you see "Panel-2 ADJ (+)." Hit "Enter" and use the up and down arrows to scroll through all the RGB controls. Use the left and right arrows to change the values. When finished, hit the "Home Menu" button to exit the SM.

Enjoy!
post #6799 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by liquidsense View Post

I also watched LOST on my 5080 last night in Chicago. I too thought that the picture quality was lacking. I also switched between OTA and Dish Network, but found both were producing bad pq.

I also agree that the dark scenes were bad. Shadow detail seemed lost, images looked very flat. And, often times, I was seeing slight shimmering in blocks of color.

However, because of a storm, the broadcast kept going to 4:3 SD whenever the warnings came on. That's when I realized that the SD looked terrible too. Even worse. I could barely even make out faces in the dark scenes. Every problem I was seeing in HD was much worse that I think it should have been in SD.

I have about 100 hours of break-in, and am using D-Nice's settings with very minor tweaks to contrast, color, and sharpness.

In my experience, LOST never looked better than passable on dark scenes. Even on the Blu-Ray, while it looks ok, it doesn't look pristine top notch PQ when they go to dark scenes. This was the case on my LCD as well. Looking at Season 2 DVD set was even worse in dark areas. The TWC ABC broadcast of LOST is horrible for me in NYC. Amazing show though.
post #6800 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuance View Post

must admit, I'm still weirded out by changing the RGB low settings so much. Ah well, it's your guys' TV's.

Is it really that bad to change the rgb low settings?
post #6801 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by techwisenyc View Post

In my experience, LOST never looked better than passable on dark scenes. Even on the Blu-Ray, while it looks ok, it doesn't look pristine top notch PQ when they go to dark scenes. This was the case on my LCD as well. Looking at Season 2 DVD set was even worse in dark areas. The TWC ABC broadcast of LOST is horrible for me in NYC. Amazing show though.

I agree, but as I said, the dark scenes looked better than I've ever seen them before (on my 4280). Better than my front pj and LCD RPTV.
post #6802 of 12870
Quick question. Is it bad to play the ps3 on the 5080 while still in break in? I have about 24-34 hours of use on it with the settings set low and the orbital turned on. I only ususally play for about 2-3 hours but am trying to stay away from games that have a permanent health bar or etc.... When i bought the TV they told me only playing 2-4 hours a day wasn't gonna hurt the TV. They explained if i left it on over night and left it paused or not moving that it would probably leave an image but since i'm only playing it for 2-4 hours that it wouldn't hurt the TV at all. Thanks for the info in advance.
post #6803 of 12870
For those having issues with shadow detail, you might try this. Look at something black on the screen. You can use a black 4:3 sidebar or look at a 0 IRE black screen on AVIA, etc. Get close (within a foot) from the screen and raise/lower the brightness while noticing the dithering noise you see in the black area. It will look "fuzzy" up to a point as you lower the brightness setting and then the noise will almost mute itself. Lowering it further produces no more noticeable decrease in dithering. The highest setting at which this muting initially occurs is the correct brightness setting. Lowering it further will not produce any darker blacks but will just mask shadow detail. Raising it past this point will increase shadow detail but at the expense of making the blacks lighter (gray).

In both Standard and User modes, this point is +2 on my 4280.
post #6804 of 12870
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpcat View Post

For those having issues with shadow detail, you might try this. Look at something black on the screen. You can use a black 4:3 sidebar or look at a 0 IRE black screen on AVIA, etc. Get close (within a foot) from the screen and raise/lower the brightness while noticing the dithering noise you see in the black area. It will look "fuzzy" up to a point as you lower the brightness setting and then the noise will almost mute itself. Lowering it further produces no more noticeable decrease in dithering. The highest setting at which this muting initially occurs is the correct brightness setting. Lowering it further will not produce any darker blacks but will just mask shadow detail. Raising it past this point will increase shadow detail but at the expense of making the blacks lighter (gray).

In both Standard and User modes, this point is +2 on my 4280.

Its best to do this with a 0IRE pattern and a pitch black room.

I agree that no one should ever need to push the brightness beyond +2. However, I've found that the brightness settings is very dependant on source equipment and lighting situation (with my source equipment that can range from -1 to +2).
post #6805 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by MJ DOOM View Post

Is it really that bad to change the rgb low settings?

f it. i changed it back
post #6806 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

Its best to do this with a 0IRE pattern and a pitch black room.

Granted, but it may be difficult to find a 0 IRE pattern generated from your cable box/sat box. With a little practice, it's doable with a 4:3 black sidebar, especially in a dim/dark room. This allows a double-check for black level for sources without readily available test patterns.
post #6807 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by MJ DOOM View Post

f it. i changed it back

So did I. For now.

It's nice to finally know how to adjust the RGB levels on the non-elite panels though. Helps to level the playing field a little for us Non-Elitists.
post #6808 of 12870
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuance View Post

I must admit, I'm still weirded out by changing the RGB low settings so much. Ah well, it's your guys' TV's.

You have to remember that these SM settings are for a user menu color temp of Mid. They look wierd because they are not suppose to be used with any other color temp.....especially the Low color temp. The Mid color temp is really out there and both the Blue High and Low settings need to be tamed.
post #6809 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuance View Post

Here how to get into the SM and apply D-Nice's settings. Please not, we are not and will not be held responsible for what you do when you get in there and start poking around/changing things.


Everyone:

Always record factory default settings in a safe place before changing ANYTHING.
post #6810 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

You have to remember that these SM settings are for a user menu color temp of Mid. They look wierd because they are not suppose to be used with any other color temp.....especially the Low color temp. The Mid color temp is really out there and both the Blue High and Low settings need to be tamed.

but will changing the rgb low settings have a bad effect on the television? also by just using only your rgb high settings will our tv's be closer to the d65 spec?
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