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The Official Pioneer 8G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 246

post #7351 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Terrax View Post

Thanks for the suggestion, but as I stated I now have as close to perfect skin tones and whites as I believe I could get without having it calibrated. I have no problem using mid temp as that has always seemed to be the most neutral position anyway. Greyscale also seem accurate, with no black crush.

I tried the other RGB changes posted here but did not like the outcome, just did not seem accurate on my set.

Fair enough. As long as you like what you see, nothing else matters. Enjoy!
post #7352 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyCanz View Post

I am running the same setup. Unfortunately Comcast doesn't yet have any boxes with HDMI out so the DVI>HDMI route is the best we've got for now. I don't notice an appreciable difference between DVI>HDMI and component but since I don't have HDMI on my 1st gen Xbox 360 I am using the component input for that.

Comcast might not have HDMI in your area specifically but they definitely have them. An Explorer 8300HDC DVR which I have. I'm not sure about their non-DVR's though.
post #7353 of 12870
Hah Roman, I got it from Alex at your shop, so I guess its still sorta within the family!
post #7354 of 12870
Greetings All! After several weeks of comparing, I'm now a 5080 owner, having taken back a 4671 samsung.

I was relatively familiar with the sammy but haven't come up to full speed on the 5080, so please pardon some newb-type questions.

My set was manufactured in 07/07--yet I bought it from BB in Feb. 08

Should I exchange for a newer manufactured one? Is there an advantage? It has no audio buzz.

Are there fw updates issued for the 5080s and if so, do I need one? If this is on a different thread, please advise.

Like many, I am wrangling over the 5010 v. 5080 issue. I'm fairly certain the 5080 is a great choice. Does the 5010 utilize more advanced processors or other hw that would give it a distinct advantage over the 5080?
post #7355 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by cybolt View Post

Greetings All! After several weeks of comparing, I'm now a 5080 owner, having taken back a 4671 samsung.

I was relatively familiar with the sammy but haven't come up to full speed on the 5080, so please pardon some newb-type questions.

My set was manufactured in 07/07--yet I bought it from BB in Feb. 08

Should I exchange for a newer manufactured one? Is there an advantage? It has no audio buzz.

Are there fw updates issued for the 5080s and if so, do I need one? If this is on a different thread, please advise.

Like many, I am wrangling over the 5010 v. 5080 issue. I'm fairly certain the 5080 is a great choice. Does the 5010 utilize more advanced processors or other hw that would give it a distinct advantage over the 5080?

believe the source of the 'buzz' eminates more from the screen; the build dates on recent models seem to have more problems, so I would keep it as long as there's no other anomalies.
i've heard of a firmware update, but not sure if its for the 5080 .. believe there is though .. but it solves some noise issue .. probably should do "Forum search"
read processor is slightly different in agorithms, but w/ some tweaking the 5080 comes out close .. of course, just what i read.
post #7356 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaychamp View Post

Comcast might not have HDMI in your area specifically but they definitely have them. An Explorer 8300HDC DVR which I have. I'm not sure about their non-DVR's though.

I'm in the same spot --I can probably keep showing up at Comcast till a box comes in -- BUT -- I feel the component picture is great -- WILL AN HDMI CONNECTION REALLY DO A VISIBLY BETTER JOB ON VIDEO (audio i would run through my AVR)

Anyone able to help?
post #7357 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeDM View Post

I'm in the same spot --I can probably keep showing up at Comcast till a box comes in -- BUT -- I feel the component picture is great -- WILL AN HDMI CONNECTION REALLY DO A VISIBLY BETTER JOB ON VIDEO (audio i would run through my AVR) Anyone able to help?

usually the component and hdmi connections can look equally as good although they may need different settings in the menu for each input type.

the kuros cannot accept 1080p over component, hdmi only, but the 1080p displays do proper deinterlacing so that shouldn't be a problem either.
post #7358 of 12870
Hey all,

I was wondering if anyone could give some settings on the 5080 while watching MLB Extra Innings baseball from DTV.
post #7359 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marter View Post

Hey all,

I was wondering if anyone could give some settings on the 5080 while watching MLB Extra Innings baseball from DTV.

See the first few posts on the first page of this thread. The settings apply to all programming, not just MLB.
post #7360 of 12870
I have a TiVo HD hooked up to my 5080HD and when I first hooked both in I pulled in the clear QAM channels on both through Charter in Northern Michigan. Now I've lost two of my clear QAM channels (Fox & ABC) on my 5080 but I have them all on the TiVo HD. I have added an Electroline EDA-FT08100 amp since then as I had been splitting the cable enough that it hurt my signal. Any ideas on how I can get these channels back on my 5080? Thanks.
post #7361 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeDM View Post

I'm in the same spot --I can probably keep showing up at Comcast till a box comes in -- BUT -- I feel the component picture is great -- WILL AN HDMI CONNECTION REALLY DO A VISIBLY BETTER JOB ON VIDEO (audio i would run through my AVR)

Anyone able to help?

I still haven't tried hdmi with the cable box yet, but I can't imagine it would make a difference. I've tried both hdmi and component w/my HDDVD player and saw no difference at all(with the Samsung plasma I had, before this TV).

I'll tell you another thing, these boxes are giving Comcast some problems. It will freeze on certain channels, and their only option is to switch them until they find a good one. When I got mine he went through 4 boxes at his previous stop, I got the last one and thankfully it was fine. The tech told me about 70% work. That's not good
post #7362 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuance View Post

Try changing to "low", then default your settings back to what they were (in the SM) but lower the R-High to 230. That should take away the red push. Then tweak from there and see if there's a difference.

Oh, of course you don't have to do any of that if you don't want to; just something to try (my set was ISF calibrated and I love it in low. Maybe you will too, but only after you rid it of red push).

P.S. The R-High setting is the only SM setting I will ever post. I don't want to upset any calibrators, especially my own.

I just now got what you were saying....... But bare in mind, my set is not, was not, and prolly won't ever be ISF calibrated, so I'm not giving away anything, other than default settings, which I have seen posted before. I do understand what you are saying. And would agree, if my 5080 had been calibrated. On the other hand, if I were posting my settings suggesting that people use them, it would be no different than what was posted on the very first page. However, I am not suggesting anyone use them, but if they were to want to try them, thats fine too. No offence to you are anyone else that is. I respect all the very knowledgeable people here and would not intentionally do anything to undermine them. If there is really some relevant objection to posting my RGB settings, I would not mind deleting them.
post #7363 of 12870
Thanks to all for the excellent information and awesome pictures. I'm closing in on purchasing a 110 and I am wondering what Mfr Date or S/N have been purchased recently. Any info from the last couple of months will help. Thanks in advance!
post #7364 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Terrax View Post

I just now got what you were saying....... But bare in mind, my set is not, was not, and prolly won't ever be ISF calibrated, so I'm not giving away anything, other than default settings, which I have seen posted before. I do understand what you are saying. And would agree, if my 5080 had been calibrated. On the other hand, if I were posting my settings suggesting that people use them, it would be no different than what was posted on the very first page. However, I am not suggesting anyone use them, but if they were to want to try them, thats fine too. No offence to you are anyone else that is. I respect all the very knowledgeable people here and would not intentionally do anything to undermine them. If there is really some relevant objection to posting my RGB settings, I would not mind deleting them.

No offense taken; and I mean none towards you. What I meant was those that have had their TV's ISF calibrated should not post all of their service menu settings. However, those that have experimented or measured/calibrated on their own - sure; post your settings. I post my picture menu settings all the time, just not my ISF service menu settings. You aren't posting ISF calibration settings that you paid to have someone perform, so my comment doesn't apply to you buddy.

The R-High setting that I posted is very close to what mine was set to during ISF calibration. I don't want to give the exact number away (out of respect for the calibrator), but its close. It is the only service menu setting I will ever give out in this forum for the world to see. Still, it will help a great deal with the red push if you use "low" as your color temp.

I hope that clears up the confusion.
post #7365 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuance View Post

No offense taken; and I mean none towards you. What I meant was those that have had their TV's ISF calibrated should not post all of their service menu settings. However, those that have experimented or measured/calibrated on their own - sure; post your settings. I post my picture menu settings all the time, just not my ISF service menu settings. You aren't posting ISF calibration settings that you paid to have someone perform, so my comment doesn't apply to you buddy.

The R-High setting that I posted is very close to what mine was set to during ISF calibration. I don't want to give the exact number away (out of respect for the calibrator), but its close. It is the only service menu setting I will ever give out in this forum for the world to see. Still, it will help a great deal with the red push if you use "low" as your color temp.

I hope that clears up the confusion.



Cool, good deal.
post #7366 of 12870
Question: If I want to make adjustments to the Low - color temp RGB settings, how would I do that if once entering the SM it defaults to Mid? If someone knows, and wouldn't mind sharing but doesn't want to do it here, please send me a PM. On a 5080 BTW. Thanks
post #7367 of 12870
Ken Ross,

Thanks much for your settings. So far out of all the ones I've tried I like your the best all around. Not only does it work for cable and HD DVD/BR but great for games also! I turned the contrast down to 36 but otherwise everything is identical and looks amazing. Thanks.
post #7368 of 12870
Does the blotching affect PQ. I already know it affects the black bars.

Thanks
post #7369 of 12870
NEW 5080 OWNER WITH PROBLEM

Need some help please. I have a 3 week old 5080 being fed by a D* HR21 HD-DVR via HDMI. With increasing frequency, I'm noticing a severe screen break-up when switching channels. I don't know if it's a newb mistake or symptomatic of a problem with set.


I have the box set to "Native" feeding all signals, including 1080i. On a black screen, during the lag time between leaving one channel and picking up the next, I get the following:



or



or other severe break ups. The images last anywhere from 2-4 secs.

EDIT: THIS OCCURS IN ALL SWITCHING... BETWEEN HD AND HD TO SD OR BACK.




WHAT'S UP? I DON'T WANT TO DAMAGE THE SET BUT SURELY THIS CANNOT BE NORMAL.
post #7370 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by cybolt View Post

NEW 5080 OWNER WITH PROBLEM

Need some help please. I have a 3 week old 5080 being fed by a D* HR21 HD-DVR. With increasing frequency, I'm noticing a severe screen break-up when switching channels. I don't know if it's a newb mistake or symptomatic of a problem with set.


I have the box set to "Native" feeding all signals, including 1080i. On a black screen, during the lag time between leaving one channel and picking up the next, I get the following:



or



or other severe break ups. The images last anywhere from 2-4 secs.




WHAT'S UP? I DON'T WANT TO DAMAGE THE SET BUT SURELY THIS CANNOT BE NORMAL.

Can you set the box to pass a fixed signal (e.g., all 1080i)? If so, maybe try that. With my SciAtlanta 8300 HD DVR I feed 1080i fixed and let the set down covert (a 950HD).
post #7371 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by cybolt View Post

NEW 5080 OWNER WITH PROBLEM

Need some help please. I have a 3 week old 5080 being fed by a D* HR21 HD-DVR. With increasing frequency, I'm noticing a severe screen break-up when switching channels. I don't know if it's a newb mistake or symptomatic of a problem with set.


I have the box set to "Native" feeding all signals, including 1080i. On a black screen, during the lag time between leaving one channel and picking up the next, I get the following:



or



or other severe break ups. The images last anywhere from 2-4 secs.

WHAT'S UP? I DON'T WANT TO DAMAGE THE SET BUT SURELY THIS CANNOT BE NORMAL.

My set has a slight delay when switching from SD broadcasts to HD broadcasts and the screen does flicker for a second....but its nothing like what you are seeing. Im not a service tech but that doesnt look right to me. I would make a call to either the store you purchased it at or at least let Pioneer know what you are seeing.

Does it happen when switching between HD channels or from SD to HD???
post #7372 of 12870
I currently have a Samsung LN-T4061F, and am looking at the Pioneer 4280HD and am wondering is it worth the downgrade in resolution?

Also what is this break in period, and what is a break in dvd/dv player that I need to use for 150hrs? I have never heard of breaking a tv in, but I have also only owned LCD tv's. I didn't think I could read through the 150+ page thread so if anyone could give me some insight o the pros of this tv, it is better to hear from owners then it is from cnet reviews.

thanks in advance.

I currently have HD DVDs that I watch in 1080P, so if they look better with a tv with higher contrast then a tv with a higher resolution I will jump on the Pioneer right waway. Thanks
post #7373 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by s2mikey View Post

My set has a slight delay when switching from SD broadcasts to HD broadcasts and the screen does flicker for a second....but its nothing like what you are seeing. Im not a service tech but that doesnt look right to me. I would make a call to either the store you purchased it at or at least let Pioneer know what you are seeing.

Does it happen when switching between HD channels or from SD to HD???


MY BAD. THIS OCCURS IN ALL SWITCHING... BETWEEN HD AND HD TO SD OR BACK.
post #7374 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by jope05 View Post

Can you set the box to pass a fixed signal (e.g., all 1080i)? If so, maybe try that. With my SciAtlanta 8300 HD DVR I feed 1080i fixed and let the set down covert (a 950HD).

I could but for some reason, that doesn't sound right. What's the box going to do if the channel I select is say sd or 720 or 480? Sorry if that sounds like a neophyte!
post #7375 of 12870
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cybolt View Post

NEW 5080 OWNER WITH PROBLEM

Need some help please. I have a 3 week old 5080 being fed by a D* HR21 HD-DVR via HDMI. With increasing frequency, I'm noticing a severe screen break-up when switching channels. I don't know if it's a newb mistake or symptomatic of a problem with set.


I have the box set to "Native" feeding all signals, including 1080i. On a black screen, during the lag time between leaving one channel and picking up the next, I get the following:

or other severe break ups. The images last anywhere from 2-4 secs.

EDIT: THIS OCCURS IN ALL SWITCHING... BETWEEN HD AND HD TO SD OR BACK.




WHAT'S UP? I DON'T WANT TO DAMAGE THE SET BUT SURELY THIS CANNOT BE NORMAL.

HDCP handshake and completely normal. If you don't want to see it, set your box to output only ONE resolution.
post #7376 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

HDCP handshake and completely normal. If you don't want to see it, set your box to output only ONE resolution.

D-Nice, since you are one of the resident experts on the line, could you (or someone else) please explain this to me in greater depth? I absolutely trust what you're saying but I want to have a better understanding of it.

1. By saying it's completely normal, does that mean it's non-damaging as well?

2. In setting the box to output one resolution (and therefore allowing the pio to convert) what setting does one choose? I watch almost exclusively HD programming so I would assume it would be the 1080i setting. However, how does that affect what the stb does when I watch a 720p/480p/sd program?

3. Does that force the stb to convert the signal on it's own? If it does, doesn't that put me at the mercy of the stb's performance and if so, what kind of impact would it have on the overall pq?

Thanks in advance for your time w/ a 5080 newb.
post #7377 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by cybolt View Post

I could but for some reason, that doesn't sound right. What's the box going to do if the channel I select is say sd or 720 or 480? Sorry if that sounds like a neophyte!

Turn your HR-21 Native off, you can leave all the resolutions checked, this will stop
post #7378 of 12870
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cybolt View Post

D-Nice, since you are one of the resident experts on the line, could you (or someone else) please explain this to me in greater depth? I absolutely trust what you're saying but I want to have a better understanding of it.

1. By saying it's completely normal, does that mean it's non-damaging as well?

Yes

Quote:


2. In setting the box to output one resolution (and therefore allowing the pio to convert) what setting does one choose? I watch almost exclusively HD programming so I would assume it would be the 1080i setting. However, how does that affect what the stb does when I watch a 720p/480p/sd program?

You can select 1080i and everything will be sent to your display at 1080i....reardless of the orginal native resolution.

Quote:


3. Does that force the stb to convert the signal on it's own? If it does, doesn't that put me at the mercy of the stb's performance and if so, what kind of impact would it have on the overall pq?

Thanks in advance for your time w/ a 5080 newb.

Yes, yes and you will be using the inferior scaler in your sat box for are conversions before it is downrezed by your panel.
post #7379 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Nice View Post

HDCP handshake and completely normal. If you don't want to see it, set your box to output only ONE resolution.

This doesn't happen with my D* H20/4280 and it doesn't look just like normal handshaking behavior to me. An instantaneous flash, maybe an occasional blue/green screen, but not screen artifacting that lasts long enough to get a picture of. Typically, my H20/4280 handshake consists of a channel banner screen, then a blank screen with HDMI window top right, then the picture shows up with the HDMI window showing the resolution.

I too would agree it shouldn't hurt anything, but if it were me I'd still look for a way to make it behave better.
post #7380 of 12870
You wouldn't believe it (maybe you can) but all 5080s were sold out within an hour+ radius from where I live.

I was able to buy one at BB today and it will be available for pickup hopefully on Wednesday.

So do you set your DTV STB to 1080i or not?
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