The Official Pioneer 8G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 253

I basically run my system the same way as you and have the same Comcast Motorola old HD cable box. I bought DVR DVI>HDMI TV cable but found that the PQ was no better than my original components, and there was also the lag you mention in sound (I also felt the transition between channels with the DVI>HDMI hookup took longer) I'm just using my component cables.

i have been using D-nice's SM RGB settings on the 5080 with mid temp, i couldnt get the skin tones right...everything still seemed too red for me, so was going to change them back, but first i tried using the dreaded "high" color temp with d-nice's SM settings and bumped the color up to 0, and to me it looked the best i have seen it...granted i like a more vivid look, rather than reference and the whites are a little bluer, but i prefer that over reddish... but the skin tones are the best i have gotten them...

Agreed. I dont know if the HD versions are less oriented towards CRTs.

I would still like to know if there is a way to change the color temp in the sm so that I could ajust the low temp without having to go in and out of sm.

Hi guys,
I just ordered the pdp-6010fd.
I currently own the KDL52XBR4 which I love but I have decided to give plasma a try. I am wondering how much better the picture will be from the Sony but will only know once I get the TV.
I wanted to pretty much get the biggest best display availible. Is the 6010 the best Panel availible right now (other than the Pro-150fd)? I am just wanting to make sure there is not anything better right now because I still have 30 days to return it.

Also,
I need help!!! LOL
When I get the TV i am going to want to throw in a Blu-ray and let-er-rip. But should I not do that??
Will it hurt the TV if I don't do a full break-in first?
I need to know how to break in the 6010 when I get it.
I have seen some links to the files to burn the break-in DVD's but I do not have a dvd burner right now.
Is there somewhere I can order or buy a pre-burned DVD??
I am going to use D-nices break-in settings on the first page of this thread.
I need to know how long I should let the tv break in at a time? Should I let the TV run for 100 hours straight or should I stop regularly to let it cool down. And if I need to stop to let it cool down, how long do I need to let it cool down before starting the break-in DVD again.
Also,
Do I need a certain type of DVD player to play the break-in DVD??
I will be using my PS3 dvd player/upconvertor to run the DVD. Or should I use the DVD player/upconverter on my Toshiba HD-A30 HD-dvd player? Which one should I use and what resolution should I set thier output to?
I know alot of the answers of these question are somewhere on this thread probably, but This thread is huge and there are so many different answers that I don't know which one I should use and don't have the time to sort thru them all.
If you guys could help me out I would be forever in your debt and I might even send you a happy meal.lol

But seriously,
HELP. lol
I only have a week before the 6010 gets here and I want to have my ducks in a row before it gets here.

Thanks Guys!!!!

All those question about break-in are answered on page one of this thread.

folks, I just got a 5080 with a SA8300HD set top box (w/DVR).

the universal remote I got with the STB is pretty good, except it doesn't let me control the 5080's screen size function.

the other problem with this remote is while it does let me change 5080 inputs, I have to cycle through all the inputs each time (i.e. to change from input 4 to 1, I have to cycle through 5, 6, 7, etc. until I get back to 1).

Is there a remote that will allow you to skip unused inputs and also has a screen size button?

D-Nice:

I understand you are the Pioneer guru....

I recently purchased my PDP6010-FD and came across your suggested settings for burn-in period. I probably have about 50 hours on the TV to date. Is it too late to use your recommended settings for a burn-in period?

Are there any disadvantages to not using your recommended settings for a burn-in period? In other words, could I just set up my own settings based on the manual and use the TV normally to burn-in the set?

If someone does use your recommended settings for the burn-in period, what happens after that time period - do you just then put in your own preferences for each mode from that point on?

There are several modes available (movie, sports, etc.); is one to use the same recommended burn-in settings for each mode?

I also read in the thread about a settings DVD one could use with a DVD player, what are your thoughts on that, is that necessary as well?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Michael

Does the orbiter drive anyone else insane? I had to turn it off within like 10 hours of use. It's impossible to play games or watch a movie and the screen shift around.

Especially because at least on my set it pulls the screen down and I can see black/white crawlies on the very top of the screen.

I know everyone recommends it for burn-in purposes, but it's one of those little quirks that will drive someone mad. Some people hate buzzing, I've decided my beef is with a shifting picture!

I was thinking about going into the service menu to adjust RBG settings. Anyone here do it themself? was it easy? Are u more pleased with the results? Whose RBG settings are most accurate? help would be greatly appreciated.

This should only be done with the proper color analyzer. In addition, any settings that cause a problem, repairs are not covered by warranty.

Hmmm, I guess ill stay away from it, thanks

A lot of us have done it, and yes it's easy; just be careful and be sure you know what you're doing. The way to get into the SM and adjust the RGB settings has been posted a bunch of times in this thread. Just start on the page before this one and work your way back until you find it. I've posted it myself numerous times.

Good luck.

Glen's right, but if you search this tread you'll see that a lot of people followed the DIY route. (I'm one of them.) I doubt many of them achieved anything equal to a professional calibration, but most (not all) believe they made worthwhile improvements.

Since a number of different approaches have been advocated, I highly recommend you take the time to read the various comments and decide for yourself which might be best for you. Without proper tools, this becomes very subjective and I, for one, am disinclined to unquestioningly use someone else's settings or publish my own.

You can do that if you do the following first.

Select a move that's filmed with a 1.77 - 1.85 to 1 aspect ratio so that it will fill your screen with out causing any black bars.

Use D-Nice's "reference" settings (not the first post which is for break-in) for the 6010. You will find a post on the first page of this forum that contains his "reference" settings for your new 6010.

If you don't have a break-in disk then use the "reference" settings, and avoid and black bars or fixed images for as long as possible.

Slow down.

I is VERY EASY to do. Do not believe all the fear mongering about ruining the TV. Just follow the posted instructions. It is as easy to adjust the RGB setting in the SM as it is to adjust anything in the user menu. Many of us have found that it improves the image and gives you that "midpoint" look between Color Temp LOW and MID. Jusy try it.

I'm a new 5080 owner who went through the same thing and my research revealed that if you want a BD player RIGHT NOW, the PS3 is the way to go. Just bought one for a trey at BB. I'm not a gamer and never have been so I'll use it strictly as a BD player. The advantages are simple: it uses the same mechanism as the stand alones AND it's upgradeable via USB. If you haven't found these already, here are two helpful threads dedicated specifically to ps3 as a bd player:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ght=ps3+owners

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=650544

Good Luck!

Ok then.... I did enter the SM and lowered the R-HIGH to 230 as per some posts from Nuance. However, even with this reduction and changing NO other settings I still feel that LOW color temp casts a reddish-brown tint to the whole image. MID certainly leans towards "blue" but its much more pleasing, even with fleshtones.

So, using MOVIE and the rest of Nuances settings I still run it at color temp MID. I did change the -2 Tint setting to -5(RED) to balance things out. Man, Im done screwing around.... you can drive yourself nuts with this stuff trying to get it just right only to edit again kater that night.

I must be missing something though or my set really is different enough to look good with color temp MID instead of LOW.

You are supposed to use color temp MID if you use the D-Nice SM settings in conjunction with the D-Nice reference settings (user or movie). Nuance had his set professionally calibrated so it is more of a challenge to get your set to match his with just the R-High Offset he gave and LOW temp.

I also found that I needed to adjust TINT to the green side a few ticks to make it look right (magenta cast correction). However, I along with Nuance found that with Movie mode it is better to use Gamma-2 rather than 3. D-Nice also reported that Movie mode had a different gamma curve from the other settings. Therefore, I would suggest the following adjustments for the D-Nice Movie mode settings: Gamma-2, Tint-0, Brightness +1 to 3. The reason for the brightness adjustments is because Gamma-2 also darkens the image somewhat so you need to up the brightness to compensate for the loss of shadow detail.

Overall, I am very pleased with the image after making the SM RGB adjustments along the reference settings, color temp MID, and the minor changes noted above. Try it to see if it works you. BTW, I use Movie, User, and Standard for different programming and have each adjusted slightly different.

One request, since you just lost your SM virginity, can you please post how easy/difficult you found the experience to be. I am really trying to dispel the fear that exists about making SM RGB changes. It really can help so many owners improve the color balance on their sets.

FYI, I am using the D-Nice service menu HIGH offset settings only. By that, I mean:

R-High +3
G-High no change
B-High -10

Those are offsets from whatever your set's RGB High settings are. Mine were:

R-High =243
G-High =256
B-High =236

That along with color temp MID and the D-Nice reference settings worked for me.

Get a Harmony Remote. You won't regret it.

I got a question about the SM color settings. My original settings are not like yours (243, 256, 236). They are a bit different. My +3 and -10 change will be different from yours since my original settings are not exactly like yours. We should be given concrete numbers. Not + and -.

D-Nice, I used your SM offsets and they successfully removed the red push I had using the original reference settings and the low color temp. The picture looks a little soft to me though, especially when looking at sports. Is there a significant negative effect (from an accuracy perspective) to bumping sharpness to -11 or contrast up to 30?

I've also been going back and forth on DRE Low vs Off and was wondering what you thought of DRE Low. In watching the Match Play golf tournament this week it's a lot easier to see the blades of grass with DRE Low vs Off.

+1, from a very happy Harmony Remote owner/user.

I have just opened my 4280hd that I bought on Thursday, and low and behold it has a stuck pixel.

The pixel is half red and half blue. Is there a way to get the pixel to be unstuck?

I am running a thing from jscreenfix.com that is supposed to get the pixel fixed in 20mins, is this a good thing to run?

Any help would be great, because right now I just want to return this tv. For being a high end tv company they seem to have some serious quality control issues.

I am using D-Nice's reference settings on my new 5010 and I have noticed a strange artifact when playing SD content via component (from my PC). I get a flicker during low light sequences (like end credits). It almost looks like the brightness is fluctuating, going from black-black to greyish-black. It even happens when the movie is paused. I never got this on my RP CRT. It does not do this with HD content (HD-DVD, 1080p MKV files, etc). I have been able to get rid of it by reducing the brightness by 2-3 points, but I am concerned that this may be an indicator of an underlying problem. Is this a known issue with the Kuros or just Plasma's in general? Sorry if this is already covered in another post, but with 254 pages to sift through I was starting to go blind.

Where does the -13 setting for color on the reference setting come from? When you run the avia or dve calibration disk, it's not even close. It's more like a 0 or 1. When you watch the tv for a while with the color at 0, then crank it down to -13, it looks like you are removing way to much color saturation from the screen.

My 5080 needs to be at -18 to -20 color, to look like real life color saturation. User mode

Thanks, Cronin. Good info here. I will try the small adjustments you suggested here. As for entering the SM....it was easy. No problems and its really no different than any other settings adjustments. The initial screens look very cryptic but certainly not scary. Id do it again and prolly will do it again.

A single stuck pixel out of ~1 million is hardly a quality control problem. No manufacturer makes perfect displays, including LCD. Can you see the stuck pixel during normal content? If you can only see it during test patterns, I'd hardly worry about it. I had a dead red sub-pixel on my 1150HD, but I only noticed it during the break-in disc. It's impossible to see during normal content.

Now if your pixel is stuck "on", then it might be worth swapping out. But if it's stuck "off" then I really wouldn't worry about it.