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The Official Pioneer 8G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 290

post #8671 of 12870
Ya, I made some SM tweaks last night adjusting according to D-Nice's most recent SM changes for "Mid" color profile and I'm really liking the results. This includes the low adjusts as well.

CSI looked pretty good last night, if you know what I mean
post #8672 of 12870
Hey guys,

I just purchased my 5010FD and it should be here by the end of the week or early next week. I have a little problem though, I cannot wriet DVD, so I don't think I can get the "break-in DVD" to use with the setting posted in the beginning of the thread. I was wondering what I should use in it's place? Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I really appreciate the help!
post #8673 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by GabeG View Post

I have an 1150hd and i notice that when being fed a 1080i signal none of the cinema settings are greyed out. Also when being fed a 1080p/24 (via an xa2) the options aren't greyed out either. Does anyone else have this issue?

Issue? That's exactly how it is supposed to work as described in the manual section you quoted via hidefpaul. When they are not grayed out, they are available to be selected.
post #8674 of 12870
for ps3 and elite 115hd owners:

do you connect your ps3 directly to TV via HDMI? if so, are there any settings(1080p/24?) you have to make on the ps3 menu to match it to the tv for smooth and clean motion when watching bluray movies?

ive got the PS3 hooked up to a Pioneer elite vsx-91 receiver, which then hooks up to the 115HD. This receiver does not perform any conversion/upscaling/etc when fed an hdmi signal, it 'should' only be doing passthrough for video signal....just want to make sure im not hurting the pq by not hooking ps3 directly to tv.

also, the 115hd is not a 1080p set, should i set the ps3 down to 720p in the system menu? right now its set to 1080p, and im assuming the tv is downscaling it to its native res...again, just wondering if its better to match the TV's settings on the ps3 system menu
post #8675 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost407 View Post

Hey guys,

I just purchased my 5010FD and it should be here by the end of the week or early next week. I have a little problem though, I cannot wriet DVD, so I don't think I can get the "break-in DVD" to use with the setting posted in the beginning of the thread. I was wondering what I should use in it's place? Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I really appreciate the help!

Go to http://www.eaprogramming.com/ on the bottom right you can order the break-in DVD for $6.50 shipped. It is one and the same as the download and burn yourself version.
post #8676 of 12870
Awesome thanks!!! If I can ask one more stupid question? Am I supposed to run ONLY this video for the first 150 - 200 hrs?? Again thank you for entertaining my stupid questions!!
post #8677 of 12870
Talking about the DVD. Does anyone know, if you get one inside the box when you buy the PRO-150FD Elite? Also, do you need to run this for 100 hours before you use the TV?
post #8678 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by cjre1 View Post

Talking about the DVD. Does anyone know, if you get one inside the box when you buy the PRO-150FD Elite? Also, do you need to run this for 100 hours before you use the TV?

No, and no.
post #8679 of 12870
For blu ray movies, if i turn black level enhanced mode on for RGB, the picture definately doesn't look right, oversaturated and whatnot.

I use YCBCR super white for blu ray.

But i went back to watching Standard DVDs on my Denon 3910 thorugh HDMI, and when i turn black level to normal on the dvd player, blacks looks very grey. when it is on enhanced, then blacks look true.

I thought enhanced mode was always supposed to be off (normal / standard) for dvds on home displays, how come on this player the picture looks much more accurate with it on?
post #8680 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al P Jones View Post

The person who has calibrated my sets is Gregg Loewen who is the president of LionAV who performs a lot of the calibrations on the East Coast.

Thanks for your calibration report. I've included it in the flat panel owner's list that is linked at the bottom of my post.
post #8681 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost407 View Post

Awesome thanks!!! If I can ask one more stupid question? Am I supposed to run ONLY this video for the first 150 - 200 hrs?? Again thank you for entertaining my stupid questions!!

If you are using normal settings like D-Nice's "reference" settings, not the break-in settings, you can run the break-in DVD as long as you want. I found it boring after about 500 hours.
post #8682 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by r3zon8 View Post

...also, the 115hd is not a 1080p set, should i set the ps3 down to 720p in the system menu? right now its set to 1080p, and im assuming the tv is downscaling it to its native res...again, just wondering if its better to match the TV's settings on the ps3 system menu

It's not 720p, either. It's 768p, so it will have to scale any signal you send it to fit its native resolution. I prefer to have it downscale from 1080 than upscale from 720, but you should try it both ways and see which looks best to you. Most people see little if any difference.
post #8683 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost407 View Post

Awesome thanks!!! If I can ask one more stupid question? Am I supposed to run ONLY this video for the first 150 - 200 hrs?? Again thank you for entertaining my stupid questions!!

Yes- run the break-in DVD with the break-in setting for a total of 150-200. Can be continuous or in small segments that add up. If you want to watch normal programing during that period, try to watch full screen with no fixed banners or logos and use the references setting that follow the break-in setting at the beginning of this thread for your set. Don't stress - enjoy.
post #8684 of 12870
Can anyone please repost the SM offsets for the low color temp for the 5010? I could only find (through the hundreds of pages... believe me, I've read about half of them) the offsets recommended for the mid temp, which I've been using, and I'd really like to compare how the low offsets appear.
post #8685 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

If you are using normal settings like D-Nice's "reference" settings, not the break-in settings, you can run the break-in DVD as long as you want. I found it boring after about 500 hours.

Thanks for the help guys!!! What do you mean NOT the break in settings, I thought the settings at the beginning of the thread were for the break in period?
post #8686 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost407 View Post

What do you mean NOT the break in settings, I thought the settings at the beginning of the thread were for the break in period?

.. yes, there's the break-in settings (thanks to D'Nice) printed in "RED" and then lower down, on same page .. there's the "reference settings" for your specific Pioneer set to begin with, either use them as they are or use them as starting point and tweak to your specific taste (eye candy).
post #8687 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost407 View Post

What do you mean NOT the break in settings, I thought the settings at the beginning of the thread were for the break in period?

Do NOT use the break-in settings with any input other than the break-in DVD. The break-in settings run very hot to burn phosphors as fast as possible. Personally, I didn't use them.

You can use the break-in DVD with normal viewing settings, D-Nice's reference settings for example. It's not as fast as using the break-in settings, but I felt more comfortable doing it that way.
post #8688 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost407 View Post

Thanks for the help guys!!! What do you mean NOT the break in settings, I thought the settings at the beginning of the thread were for the break in period?

Break-in settings are ONLY for the Break-in DVD.
post #8689 of 12870
So it looks like Eliab and Gregg Loewen (LionAV) are both willing to come up to Vermont to calibrate my 5010. Gregg can come up as soon as the second week of April, and Eliab can add me to his northeast tour in late May. Gregg is significantly more expensive, but can do it sooner. Decisions....decisions.

And, of course, I still have to decide if I should let Best Buy's "certified ISF tech" touch my TV in the meantime.
post #8690 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiVoHD View Post

So it looks like Eliab and Gregg Loewen (LionAV) are both willing to come up to Vermont to calibrate my 5010. Gregg can come up as soon as the second week of April, and Eliab can add me to his northeast tour in late May. Gregg is significantly more expensive, but can do it sooner. Decisions....decisions.

They both have outstanding reputations here at AVS. What difference does a month make -- you've already got the TV!

Quote:


And, of course, I still have to decide if I should let Best Buy's "certified ISF tech" touch my TV in the meantime.

If you've got a "good" set, and a BB-Guy messes it up, BB will replace it. But, that means you will have to wait even longer for a calibration. What do you gain letting a BB-Guy mess with your set?
post #8691 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Macfan424 View Post

Issue? That's exactly how it is supposed to work as described in the manual section you quoted via hidefpaul. When they are not grayed out, they are available to be selected.


What I am saying is that they never seem to be grayed out. Isn't that unusual?
post #8692 of 12870
Message moved here
post #8693 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

If you've got a "good" set, and a BB-Guy messes it up, BB will replace it. But, that means you will have to wait even longer for a calibration. What do you gain letting a BB-Guy mess with your set?

I guess the only thing I have to gain is that if I by some odd chance get a calibrator from Best Buy that actually does have a clue, I may not need another calibration. I know that's wishful thinking.
post #8694 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiVoHD View Post

I guess the only thing I have to gain is that if I by some odd chance get a calibrator from Best Buy that actually does have a clue, I may not need another calibration. I know that's wishful thinking.

... and if he "bricks" it?
post #8695 of 12870
We all know that the not expercienced calibrated at best buy is a joke. I would never have him in my house.
post #8696 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by boostfrenzy View Post

speaking of your SM RGB modifications, what do your honestly think happens to the accuracy when the LOW RGB settings are left @ stock(512)?

I see a lot of people doing that, however I haven't bothered to try and compare, I know they're doing it because pioneer "advises" not to... if your offsets get very close to D65 (i'm not sure if they do or not i haven't verified but damn it looks good), what would happen if you used the HIGH RGB changes, but left the LOW side factory?

It seems to me Pioneer only advises not touching the lows so it doesn't look as good as an elite

d-nice?
post #8697 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Do NOT use the break-in settings with any input other than the break-in DVD. The break-in settings run very hot to burn phosphors as fast as possible. Personally, I didn't use them.

You can use the break-in DVD with normal viewing settings, D-Nice's reference settings for example. It's not as fast as using the break-in settings, but I felt more comfortable doing it that way.

Oh got it thanks!!! I don't know if I have the patience that you had though to sit that long without actually using the set... did you also watch movies, or ONLY run the break-in DVD for that long using the reference settings?
post #8698 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by GabeG View Post

What I am saying is that they never seem to be grayed out. Isn't that unusual?

No, that's how they should be, unless you feed the TV a 1080p/60 signal. If it didn't gray out then, it would be unusual (even mysterious ).
post #8699 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

... and if he "bricks" it?

Point taken. Although I am very curious about the Best Buy calibration, it sounds like I should just book Eliab for May and be done with it.
post #8700 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiVoHD View Post

Point taken. Although I am very curious about the Best Buy calibration, it sounds like I should just book Eliab for May and be done with it.

D-Nice settings are 90% (IMHO) close to a real ISF cal, so don't sweat it, wait until you can book someone other than BB. The incremental improvement you see may not even be worth it, depending how picky you are. If I had to do it over again, I'd just stick with D-nice settings and spend the $350 on another A/V component, since the improvement was visible but minor.
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