or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › The Official Pioneer 8G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Official Pioneer 8G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread - Page 295

post #8821 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by ikeb View Post

if you want absolutly positively perfect 5080 service menu settings - here are the offsets:

R-High=7
G-High=0
B-High=-8
R-Low=-6
G-Low=-3
B-Low=-14

temp
10 =5709
20 =6543
30 =6493
40 =6553
50 =6779
60 =6490
70 =6458
80 =6495
90 =6427
100 =6529

use these with User
temp =Mid
gamma =2

Nice! I'll be trying those settings out.
post #8822 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by soncomet View Post

On my 1150HD the overscan is not enough to totally eliminate the small black bars on the top and bottom of 1.85:1 movies. They are about half (maybe a little smaller I don't know) the size as on a 1080p set with 1:1, but they are still there. I know it's not just the normal black area around the screen because when I hit the zoom button it fills in those tiny areas on the top and bottom.

Our set is 1080p so I should have qualified my comments. There should be a size mode that gives you enough overscan to hide 1.85:1 black bars. Of course it's not important after you've finished a reasonable break-in period. In fact, it may not be important at all if you mix up your viewing.
post #8823 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by ikeb View Post

if you want absolutly positively perfect 5080 service menu settings - here are the offsets:

R-High=7
G-High=0
B-High=-8
R-Low=-6
G-Low=-3
B-Low=-14

temp
10 =5709
20 =6543
30 =6493
40 =6553
50 =6779
60 =6490
70 =6458
80 =6495
90 =6427
100 =6529

use these with User
temp =Mid
gamma =2

how did you arrive at these settings? i'd have to assume through a real calibration....are the last set of values color temp in Kelvin at 0 - 100 IRE? if so, that looks pretty accurate.

thanks for sharing.
post #8824 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by ikeb View Post

if you want absolutly positively perfect 5080 service menu settings - here are the offsets:

R-High=7
G-High=0
B-High=-8
R-Low=-6
G-Low=-3
B-Low=-14


Since all panels have different factory defaults, if you gave us your "before" settings we could adjust accordingly. Thanks.
post #8825 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by baumer View Post

Since all panels have different factory defaults, if you gave us your "before" settings we could adjust accordingly. Thanks.

Not to be a pain, but also are these settings based on something similar to D-nice's reference settings for contrast, brightness, tint, etc., i.e. user menu adjustments? thanks
post #8826 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by G-star View Post

Not to be a pain, but also are these settings based on something similar to D-nice's reference settings for contrast, brightness, tint, etc., i.e. user menu adjustments? thanks

On top of the regular menu settings from page one, D-Nice gave us his recommendations for the Service Menu (RGB settings only) as well. This was quite a few pages back and i don't remember what they are off the top of my head.

I seems like many people, myself included, have been taking those SM settings and tweaking them to their liking. I take the settings from other users and compare them to what i have come up with for my 4280. I have also changed the low settings with no ill effects.

This is the extent of my tweaking in the SM, so i'm not sure what ikeb talks about with regards to the temp. changes, but it's not something that i'll be messing with anyway.

If you're interested in the settings i use i can pm them to you.

Hope this helps,

Doug
post #8827 of 12870
Last night, I took D-nice advice from page 1 of this thread and set my PRO-150FD to the pure setting, I even change one low that he stated. It looks sweet.

I am still confused about the temp setting. I can't seem to find that. Are they not on the Elites?
post #8828 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by cjre1 View Post

Last night, I took D-nice advice from page 1 of this thread and set my PRO-150FD to the pure setting, I even change one low that he stated. It looks sweet.

I am still confused about the temp setting. I can't seem to find that. Are they not on the Elites?

Not on the Pro 150FD.
post #8829 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by baumer View Post

On top of the regular menu settings from page one, D-Nice gave us his recommendations for the Service Menu (RGB settings only) as well. This was quite a few pages back and i don't remember what they are off the top of my head.

I seems like many people, myself included, have been taking those SM settings and tweaking them to their liking. I take the settings from other users and compare them to what i have come up with for my 4280. I have also changed the low settings with no ill effects.

This is the extent of my tweaking in the SM, so i'm not sure what ikeb talks about with regards to the temp. changes, but it's not something that i'll be messing with anyway.

If you're interested in the settings i use i can pm them to you.

Hope this helps,

Doug


I think one of your questions was about the RGB settings we are getting from people on what we use as a starting point. As an example if the R High 7 offset value is given do we just go up from our setting of the default of 244 on our TV which would give us a figure of 247?
My point is that if all the TVs defaults are set at the factory and might have different default values then how can we use these offset figures that are being given?
post #8830 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by jet757f View Post

I think one of your questions was about the RGB settings we are getting from people on what we use as a starting point. As an example if the R High 7 offset value is given do we just go up from our setting of the default of 244 on our TV which would give us a figure of 247?
My point is that if all the TVs defaults are set at the factory and might have different default values then how can we use these offset figures that are being given?

Exactly. Not only do the defaults vary from panel to panel, but on my set alone, and i assume everyone else's, they vary from input to input.

Using your example, this is what i do:

I am given a R-high offset of +7 from someone. If i know his default is 240, for example, his ending value would be 247 on his set.

If my R-High default is 236 i change it to 247, not 243, to match his set.

I then change one of my inputs to reflect the new settings. So, say on Input 4 i have my settings and then on Input 5 i have the other settings, as long as everything else is the same, i can switch from input to input to see the differences. I then make changes, if any, as i see fit.

Hope that didn't confuse you, it did me and i was writing it!
post #8831 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by baumer View Post

Exactly. Not only do the defaults vary from panel to panel, but on my set alone, and i assume everyone else's, they vary from input to input.

Using your example, this is what i do:

I am given a R-high offset of +7 from someone. If i know his default is 240, for example, his ending value would be 247 on his set.

If my R-High default is 236 i change it to 247, not 243, to match his set.

I then change one of my inputs to reflect the new settings. So, say on Input 4 i have my settings and then on Input 5 i have the other settings, as long as everything else is the same, i can switch from input to input to see the differences. I then make changes, if any, as i see fit.

Hope that didn't confuse you, it did me and i was writing it!


But if you do it that way then you are actually changing your factory default settings to someone elses. It would almost make more sense to me that if someone goes up by 7 to just add to whatever your default setting is at on your TV. I guess it would be something to to play around with and see which looks best.

D Nice put out some RGB settings and I dont think he every mentioned what his default settings were. I would imagine thought that they wouldnt vary that much from TV to TV.
post #8832 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiVoHD View Post

What if Pure Cinema is set to Standard and you feed it a 1080p/24 signal? Does it still automatically switch to 72Hz? If it will automatically switch to 72Hz regardless of the Pure Cinema setting, why would you ever have to use the Advanced setting?

when watching 1080i from DVD or TV, i believe you can use advanced to instead of doing a 3:2 pulldown to 60hz, it can get the original 24 and display that 3:3 at 72 to avoid the pulldown.
post #8833 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by baumer View Post

Since all panels have different factory defaults, if you gave us your "before" settings we could adjust accordingly. Thanks.

how would one adjust accordingly? again excuse my newbness
post #8834 of 12870
Ok this is what I hope to be the last stupid question I pose to you guys I have read nothing but about how deep the blacks are in the Kuro line and even more so on the 8G's... I have read about how the blacks around the edges should practically fade into the darkness of the room, or at least blend with the edges of the set... Well, I don't know if my posphers just are not mature enough yet, but the blacks did not seem to be that black!! Do I need to adjust something, or will these blacks come through with time? Thanks guys!
post #8835 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by acevesf View Post

how would one adjust accordingly? again excuse my newbness

He is talking about service menu (sm) adjustments such as RGB offsets. People are giving us readings such as
R-High = 7
G-HIgh=0
B-High =8

This is fine but we dont know at what factory default they are starting from or if it even matters. TVs may vary on these settings.

So as an example if my factory default setting for R-High is 244 should I just add 7 and make it 251 or
do I need to know their default setting which might be R-High 240 and add 7 which would make it 247?
post #8836 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by jet757f View Post

He is talking about service menu (sm) adjustments such as RGB offsets. People are giving us readings such as
R-High = 7
G-HIgh=0
B-High =8

This is fine but we dont know at what factory default they are starting from or if it even matters. TVs may vary on these settings.

Guys,

He gave us all the required info. The RGB values listed are OFFSETS from your TV's factory default values. Everyone's default values vary somewhat because of manufacturing. Basically, everyone's set is displaying the same RBG levels (to within +/- 5% according to D-Nice) even though the SM settings to get those levels the same are different. Then you just add/subtract the offset values from whatever you default RGB values are to get the D65 settings. The color temp he referred to is the COLOR TEMP in the user settings, likewise for the GAMMA setting. Those are needed because the set was calibrated with color temp set to MID and gamma set to 2. All the other USER settings are at your discretion as they do not affect the RGB. You can use the D-Nice reference settings or setting of your own. Hope that clears everything up.
post #8837 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by jet757f View Post

He is talking about service menu (sm) adjustments such as RGB offsets. People are giving us readings such as
R-High = 7
G-HIgh=0
B-High =8

This is fine but we dont know at what factory default they are starting from or if it even matters. TVs may vary on these settings.

So as an example if my factory default setting for R-High is 244 should I just add 7 and make it 251 or
do I need to know their default setting which might be R-High 240 and add 7 which would make it 247?

The highlighted one is the one you do.
post #8838 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost407 View Post

Ok this is what I hope to be the last stupid question I pose to you guys I have read nothing but about how deep the blacks are in the Kuro line and even more so on the 8G's... I have read about how the blacks around the edges should practically fade into the darkness of the room, or at least blend with the edges of the set... Well, I don't know if my posphers just are not mature enough yet, but the blacks did not seem to be that black!! Do I need to adjust something, or will these blacks come through with time? Thanks guys!

Longtime lurker here, in the very same situation as Ghost407... Got my 508XD about a week ago, and have put in around 50 hours of viewing on it. But the blacks actually dissapoint me, and in a dark room they look very grey and doesn't at all look like the pictures I've seen from the 8G Kuros on this forum and other sites. I understand that real-life and pictures are different matters, but still I kind of feel the blacklevel of the Kuros have been somewhat "hyped" better than it actually is. I think the blacks of my Kuro is only marginally better (in a dark room) than the blacks of my previous Samsung LE40M87 LCD! Oh well, I may be expecting too much But I kind of feel justified to have high expectations, given that the Kuro is almost three times the price of the Samsung.. Am I missing something?
post #8839 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by jet757f View Post

But if you do it that way then you are actually changing your factory default settings to someone elses. It would almost make more sense to me that if someone goes up by 7 to just add to whatever your default setting is at on your TV. I guess it would be something to to play around with and see which looks best.

D Nice put out some RGB settings and I dont think he every mentioned what his default settings were. I would imagine thought that they wouldnt vary that much from TV to TV.

I just want to see what other people are looking at compared to my set.
You're right, i think the defaults are close from set to set.
post #8840 of 12870
using a trillion dollar colorometer and Getgrey and HCFR

yes - values after calibration

in my opinion - why pay a calibrator to do something that if you have an IQ above sea level you can do yourself. All of us on this board are pretty smart people and each of us can do this our selves (DIY).


Quote:
Originally Posted by G-star View Post

how did you arrive at these settings? i'd have to assume through a real calibration....are the last set of values color temp in Kelvin at 0 - 100 IRE? if so, that looks pretty accurate.

thanks for sharing.
post #8841 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by ikeb View Post

using a trillion dollar colorometer and Getgrey and HCFR

yes - values after calibration

in my opinion - why pay a calibrator to do something that if you have an IQ above sea level you can do yourself. All of us on this board are pretty smart people and each of us can do this our selves (DIY).

For one, the equipment needed to do the job right comes with a 'VERY' high price tag. 'MUCH' higher than what a good ISF tech charges.
post #8842 of 12870
I just bought the Pioneer 1150.

What settings should I use for the break-in period???????? (I'm breaking it in with normal programming, not the DVD.)
post #8843 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by drumfrodo View Post

Longtime lurker here, in the very same situation as Ghost407... Got my 508XD about a week ago, and have put in around 50 hours of viewing on it. But the blacks actually dissapoint me, and in a dark room they look very grey and doesn't at all look like the pictures I've seen from the 8G Kuros on this forum and other sites. I understand that real-life and pictures are different matters, but still I kind of feel the blacklevel of the Kuros have been somewhat "hyped" better than it actually is. I think the blacks of my Kuro is only marginally better (in a dark room) than the blacks of my previous Samsung LE40M87 LCD! Oh well, I may be expecting too much But I kind of feel justified to have high expectations, given that the Kuro is almost three times the price of the Samsung.. Am I missing something?


Something isn't right as there is only one lcd that comes even close and no plasmas currently, to the kuro's.
Grey is not an adjective I'd ever use for the black level on a kuro. Heck even Sammy and Panny's are black and the 81 series lcd too, but it uses localized dimming.
post #8844 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambone View Post

I just bought the Pioneer 1150.

What settings should I use for the break-in period????????


Check page#1 of the "settings" thread sticky.
post #8845 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by drumfrodo View Post

Longtime lurker here, in the very same situation as Ghost407... Got my 508XD about a week ago, and have put in around 50 hours of viewing on it. But the blacks actually dissapoint me, and in a dark room they look very grey and doesn't at all look like the pictures I've seen from the 8G Kuros on this forum and other sites. I understand that real-life and pictures are different matters, but still I kind of feel the blacklevel of the Kuros have been somewhat "hyped" better than it actually is. I think the blacks of my Kuro is only marginally better (in a dark room) than the blacks of my previous Samsung LE40M87 LCD! Oh well, I may be expecting too much But I kind of feel justified to have high expectations, given that the Kuro is almost three times the price of the Samsung.. Am I missing something?

if you watch the kuro in pitch black room, or any tv for that matter, a completey black screen will not blend in with the darkness. You will see light, thats why using bias lighting is important if you plan on watching in pitch black. If you watch with ambient room lighting, the blacks match the border of the tv. Ive owned an xbr4 an 71f, which are amongst the best lcds out there, and there is no comparison to the black levels on the kuro with right lighting conditions. During the day, the blacks are not as impressive, and are about lcd level, but in a dim room its second to none. also, the blacks are very pure, meaning it doesnt have a blue tint like most lcds.
post #8846 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by ikeb View Post

using a trillion dollar colorometer and Getgrey and HCFR

yes - values after calibration

in my opinion - why pay a calibrator to do something that if you have an IQ above sea level you can do yourself. All of us on this board are pretty smart people and each of us can do this our selves (DIY).

awesome...can't wait to try them out.
post #8847 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghost407 View Post

OI have read nothing but about how deep the blacks are in the Kuro line and even more so on the 8G's...

8G is the eigth generationwhich is the Kuro line.

Quote:
I have read about how the blacks around the edges should practically fade into the darkness of the room, or at least blend with the edges of the set...

Be careful what you think "practically" means. Sometimes it can become an exaggeration.

The Kuro blacks are better than any plasma in the past. That doesn't mean that they are as black as the bezel. You probably need to adjust your expectations.

Someone posted pictures from CES showing the current Kuro beside a much blacker "coming in the future" panel that Pioneer was showing as a prototype. The Kuro panel looked gray in the photos.
post #8848 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by ikeb View Post

using a trillion dollar colorometer and Getgrey and HCFR

yes - values after calibration

in my opinion - why pay a calibrator to do something that if you have an IQ above sea level you can do yourself. All of us on this board are pretty smart people and each of us can do this our selves (DIY).

Uh, I beg to differ. Yes D-Nice settings get people 85-90% close (which may well be enough for most), but each set is unique and if you want a perfect ISF cal, you aren't going to be doing it yourself unless you have $20K+ in equipment and have exceptional skills.
post #8849 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by E-A-G-L-E-S View Post

Check page#1 of the "settings" thread sticky.

Am I missing something here???

It just tells me to use the break-in DVD to break my set in. What settings should I use to break-in my 1150 without using a DVD???? The Day, Reference or the D55 settings???
post #8850 of 12870
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

8G is the eigth generationwhich is the Kuro line.

Be careful what you think "practically" means. Sometimes it can become an exaggeration.

The Kuro blacks are better than any plasma in the past. That doesn't mean that they are as black as the bezel. You probably need to adjust your expectations.

Someone posted pictures from CES showing the current Kuro beside a much blacker "coming in the future" panel that Pioneer was showing as a prototype. The Kuro panel looked gray in the photos.

I do understand that it is the 8th generation of the Kuro line I have just heard everything about how the 8Gs are 80% blacker than anything else. I think I should lower my expectations, its not like I wasn't COMPLETELY blown away last night, I just was wondering. I think I do need to get some ambient light going, because I was watching it in a completely pitch black room. Is it best to have the ambient light coming from behind the TV? MAN I'm such a NOOB, sorry for all my ignorant questions...

ht do you think that "coming of the future" panel is going to make it to the production lines, as Pio is stopping the production of the glass in house? And how far in the future are they? I guess I got a good deal on the tv, because the 9Gs are about to come out, and honestly, it is a gorgeous set

I guess I will have to save my pennies until I can get a professional calibrator to come out and do my set, from everything I've read it sounds VERY worth it. Thanks again for the help!!
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Plasma Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › The Official Pioneer 8G Kuro Settings/Issues Thread