Samsung HL-T67xxW info **NO PRICE TALK OR WHERE TO BUY!! - Page 12

I have already tried several methods to fix the 4:3 issue.

First, I opened the ports on the side and pushed the screen forward on both sides to see if this would reset the seating of the screen around the edges. (Like the suction cup trick but much easier). There was no crackling like the edges might have been in a bind. And, the screen returned to the concave position. No improvement here.

Second, I loosened the screws on the left and right side 2 1/2 turns till the bezel easily flexed. Then I wiggled the screen to loosen it in the bezel. This appeared to flatten the screen. The catch is the bowing of the 4:3 picture did not go away, even with the screen now flat. This leads me to believe that the bowing is in the light engine optics or mirror and not caused by the screen bowing. The screen returned to the slightly concave position after re-tightening the screws (not as tight as before since the set won't be moved around anymore). I even loosened the top screws as another try at keeping the screen flat and holding it out while tightening all three sides. No luck.

No clouding or blotch issues on mfr date 07/07 here.

And, last on my list. I like Costco and don't find them to be a pita in any way. I didn't not trade my older perfectly good, functional tvs back in just because Costco had a lifetime policy and a cheaper price on a newer more full featured model. I don't mind that they now have a 90days return 2 year extended service since I won't have to listen to as much future whining and game playing excuses over why people rationalize taking advantage of return policies is good for consumers or businesses or that it is in fact ethical. (So, let the flames begin )

I found an old post that addresses a screen fix on an older HLM507W warped screen that caused bowing. I am re-posting it here in hopes that someone will try it and report their results. There are two methods, the second being more invasive. Both attempt to create a flat screen by placing the screen under more tension. I have no idea whether these would work on an HL-T Samsung.

1) Apply double-stick tape to the inside of the mounting brackets. Flatten the screen as it is re-inserted and clamped down. This method requires some trimming of the tape and careful placement of the screen stack. The poster found that this procedure fixed 95% of the geometry issues. (It seems to be a temporary fix).

2) Drill holes through the bezel and into the screen stack and back through the brackets. The holes in the bezel should be about 1 mm farther out than the ones in the screen stack when the stack is not in tension (in its bowed state). Use dowel pins through the holes. When the whole setup is put back together, the screen will have to be pushed to get the dowels through the holes. This will put the screen under some tension which prevents bowing.

3) Here's my fix. Buy a TV from a manufacturer who builds it right the first time.

I think you meant connect all components to the hdmi inputs of the receiver and then the one hdmi out from receiver to tv so you only have one cable going to the tv.

problem is most receivers including the onkyo 605 mentioned only has 2 hdmi inputs. the onkyo 705 has 3 and I am wanting to get that one but its still too expensive.

i guess you could use an hdmi switcher in conjuction with the receiver to add a few more hdmi inputs

hm, like the 2 in 1 out hdmi switch i have maybe you could put 2 devices into it and then have the hdmi out into one of the inputs in the receiver? and then hdmi out from receiver to tv

so even if you got a reciever like the onkyo 605 you could get 2 hdmi inputs out of the one using a 2 in 1 out hdmi switch like i have, so essentially youd have 3 hdmi inputs from the receiver and that way can get a cheaper 2 in 1 out hdmi receiver like the onkyo 605 instead of one of the few and expensive 3 hdmi input receivers?

alas, i think i'm going to have 4 hdmi components (hd dvr set top box, denon upconvert dvd player, xbox 360 elite, and ps3)

so if i want them all going through the receiver i'd have to get the onkyo 705 3 hdmi input reciever and still use my switch, to add a 4th input, heh.

can always go just direct to the tv though with one of the hdmi inputs like maybe with the cable box, but i'm hoping that going to the receiver hdmi in and then from reciever hdmi out to tv will sync up the sound of the tv and the receiver as i like to use both.

though i guess when your going hdmi into receiver you then dont need optical audio out of the component to receiver? thats a shame cus i have a bunch of nice optical audio cables, but again i think that is why the audio isn't synced with tv and reciever on my devices? because currently i have them going hdmi direct into tv or into hdmi switch then to tv (so same thing audio wise) and then optical audio out from each device to the receiver.

so receiver is using optical audio while the tv has the hdmi audio from the device and the hdmi and optical audio are not synced because they are 2 diff connections.

i wonder which one is delayed and which comes first? which is more accurate with the video/picture as far as mouth moving and hearing the words.

but it seems hdmi is the new way to go for audio so i should just scrap the optical audio cables and use hdmi receiver.

again that should eliminate the audio sync issue between hdmi from tv and optical from receiver.

i like to use my tv as additional front right and left speakers as i keep mine behind the tv so i imagine they are a little muffled.

nice, I didn't know the 875 had 4 hdmi inputs, but its too expensive. I was going to just get the 705 with its 3 hdmi inputs otherwise i would have done the more affordable popular 605 but it only has 2 and as i mentioned i kind of need 4 inputs and was going to use the 705 with my hdmi switch to add a 4th.

will that work fine or should i really think about the 875? amazon doens't have it yet but seems a few other merchants do but i'm trying to get more like around 500 and the 705 is already over $700 with the 875 even more.

You mention it upscales everything to 1080p. Well the tv upscales stuff too but i guess not for SD chans where the cable box is set to do them at 480p (the other choice for 4:3 or sd material in the cable box settings is usually 480i or stretch so i usually select 480p)

Now if the receiver will upconvert the SD chans to 1080p, is it then full screen? This would; be a great solution for hlt6756 owners looking to get rid of the 4:3 bowing without having to constantly hit the psize button the tv remote to wide zoom the 4:3 material and then off again when you get to a 16:9 channel

please let us know. Does the receiver when upconverting SD chans from the cable box to 1080p make it full screen therefore eliminating the bowing?

does the 705 have this same upconversion? i believe it does. will that work for me to add a 4th hdmi input by connecting a 2 in 1 out hdmi switch to one of the hdmi inputs in the receiver, so essentially i could have 4 hdmi inputs into my receiver and go with the one out to the tv?

I also have a Yammy 661 receiver (the other bang for buck favorite receiver along with the onkyo 605 though most prefer the yam 661 over it for i think the upconverting while the 605 has hdmi 1.3 that the yam 661 doesn't but i think its useless unless your tv has hdmi 1.3 though that would be sweet if you connected a hdmi 1.3 device to your receive and it carried it to the tv even if the tv didnt' have hdmi 1.3 but i think the tv has to be capable as a receiver cant send/simulate hdmi 1.3 deep color to a tv hdmi input that doesnt have it)

i dont even really use the hdmi inputs on my yam receiver cus I kind of ran out of hdmi cables but i wonder if it woudl be better and eliminate any audio sync problems though i dont notice it on that tv as much plus i mostly use that tv for xbox 360 premium connected via VGA for games which does 1080p but i wonder if there is a receiver with a VGA input and then goes from the receiver to tv via hdmi?

sounds like i may be freeing up a lot of optical audio cables and in need of more hdmi.

If someone is not too tired of this question, I would very much appreciate
instruction on how to access the service menu in the hl-t6756w series and
to know if there is indeed access tyo iris control in this model? Thanks in advance
trans

i mostly meant that renting a truck and getting someone to help you lug the tv onto it and then again with the new one when you get home and all the disconnecting, reconnecting and moving which you have to do if you get a defective unit and have to return it or whatever, which has nothing to do with abusing return policies or whatever you were getting on at.

so not so much that costco is a pita but just renting truck, loading and returning is. costco doesnt' help as they have some strict policies where for instance even if your stand is defective you hae to return the whole set to get a new stand or in some cases ppl had to return and rebuy for other reasons due to their red tape etc.

Just got this behemoth set up after the whole purchase/transport ordeal. Let me tell you, this thing is huge. It is beautiful in gloss black. Will play with settings and post thoughts/comparison to my HP DLP asap.

Me Too.
Cant seem to find the exact info needed, and I know how to search!

I have an older Samsung HLP set, and it seems that entering the HLS service menu is more dangerous than it has been in the past. If you press the "right arrow" at the wrong time you can reset your TV's SM.

I don't know the HL-T gotchas so just be careful.

Here are instructions and warnings that should be helpful.


Caution!


New information for HLR and later (?) owners:







With the set ON, press Power-Mute-1-8-2-Power in quick succession.
(If the set is already off, just do Mute-1-8-2-Power )

The service menu should appear for the input you were viewing before keying the above sequence. Be sure to give the set enough time to complete the process(30-60 seconds).




For all model years: To Exit the SM, power off. Leave it off for several(30 or more) seconds. (until all cooling activity is complete)

anyone tried these internal fixes for the 67 to any avail?

Most devices that have HDMI also have optical (TOSLINK) or coax digital audio outputs.

Assuming your receiver does not have HDMI (mine doesn't) just hook the HDMI up to the TV, and the TOSLINK to your receiver, and you're good to go. Of course when you use that input on your TV, you'll also have to change the input on your receiver. If you run out of inputs (on the TV or receiver) then you may have to invest in a switch box (get one with IR remote control). At this point you probably have too many remotes, and the rest of the family can't get anything to work, and that's when you invest in a Harmony remote control. hehe

I have a couple of questions:

1. What is the best practice for preserving the life of a DLP lamp? I have heard it is better to leave it on, than turn it off often, but what is often? I've been telling my family that unless the TV will be off for more than 2 hours, it's better to just leave it on, but that was just me shooting from the hip.
2. Related to the above, what is the minimum rating for a UPS you would use for this TV?
3. Is there a way to access the discreet IR codes (for on/off and the inputs) from the remote that comes with the set? I'd like to update the Harmony site so it actually has the codes for this model number rather than cheating and changing the model number which just contributes to the Harmony site being inaccurate, not to mention I think the previous model only had one HDMI, so it's probably still missing one code.

Probably a stupid question, but Cox Cable supplied connection cables to the HD box. Do I need to buy the HDMI cables for 99 at Costco.. Costco had them couponed earlier this year but I missed out. Also I am concerned the TV is too big for our room.

If your STB comes with a HDMI cable then use that one. Otherwise get one from some place like www.monoprice.com where the cables are cheaper and work exactly the same way. $99 is a rip.

It's better to use HDMI which is digital that any of the analog (Component, Composite or S-Vidoe) cables.

if your concerned about the size you need to measure how big the space is where you want to put it.. the TV is 67" diagonal and you need at least more then 10 ft to get good picture but it doesnt matter...

I think the main thing is you don't want to turn off then back on right away. Other than that, just use it like any normal appliance. Turn it off if you're not going to be watching for 15mins or so.

Nice thing about this set is the bulb costs only $150 so I think you should relax and enjoy the TV and not expend mental energy thinking about the bulb. also, I think your warranty covers the bulb so if you do something to blow the bulb in the first two years, consider it a free lesson learned

"clarification" please!
Does the hl-t6756 have an iris, and can it be conrolled via the user or service menu
controls?
Once again thank you in advance and I appreciate your indulgence anbd support.........

Trans

"that's contolled/adjusted!

anyone get this set calibrated yet? I"m scheduling calibration for next week as like other HLT's from what i've read this hlt 6756 seems to have a bit of a green push and in general not as spot on colors, brightness and general settings in the preset modes as last years hls67 did which i never felt the need to have calibrated.

i figure its an excuse to have it calibrated which is going to open up the real full potential of the tv and supposedly gets amazing results. the cost of the calibration makes the price of this set compared to last years a wash though but again while the out of box doesn't seem to be as good as last years hls67, it hink calibrated the hlt6756 is going to crush it.

Quatre: who is doing your calibration? could you take some before and after shots? that'd be cool.

I'm still trying to get the best picture, and find the infinite adjustments almost intimidating. I'd love to hear your results post-cal. In my early opinion, SD is barely watchable on most channels-seems blurry- and HD is magnificent. My HP seemed to be MUCH clearer on SD programming.

Ditto. I think the SD picture is horrible. I guess I was spoiled by my ISF calibrated old Toshiba RPTV which this Sammy is replacing.

Last night my wife was watching a DVD and I noticed that the faces did not look sharp; they looked like a 3rd generation VHS tape. Another way I'd describe it is that portions of the faces looked way too bright lacking shapness. I also noticed the same on some HD programs. Anybody else notice something similar? BTW, I adjusted the set using the settings someone posted in this thread.

I agree. I can't wait to find out if cal helps SD become watchable. Check your DVD player regarding the bad pic. Temporarily, I have a Sony progressive scan DVD player hooked up, and the picture again was awful. Turned off the players progressive mode and the pic was much better with the TV processing.

try turning down contrast a bit. also turn off black adjust and dynamic contrast, set white balance and gamma to zero. see if that helps.

don't get too hung up on specific scenes, though. it could just be a flaw (intended or not) in the film or video.

Thanks for the tip; I'll give it a try tonight.

Regarding the bowing during 4:3 display, has anyone tried fixing it by using a method posted in this thread?

I communicated with Muffdiever about his bowing fix and he admitted that it had a negative affect on the horizontal geometry. I don't think he ever achieved satisfactory geometry on his Samsung HL-T.

Eliab from Avical of course. I will try to take some before and after shots. I may see if he lets me video some of the procedure just for interest to show friends or bro what really is involved with an ISF certified pro calibration.

the HLS6767 didn't seem to need calibration as bad. So, now the money i got back by returning that model for the HLT6756 is spent on calibration so its a wash but I'm sure while the out of box picture doesnt' seem to be as good on this hlt compared to last years equivalent hlt model, im sure the calibrated hlt picture will be better then the out of box hls.

plus the 2" slimmer depth, gloss black casing, and 2 shelf stand etc. plus some minor new features/improvements.

basically it ended up being enough of an excuse to get first pro cal so I'm hoping it will turn out good. I think ppl have said they get good results from cal of the HLT's so this model should be the same and its prob similiar results to the HLS which many got calibrated despite its better out of box picture.

so while i hate to be the guinea pig for this model at leat on this thread, the results should be similiar to the hls67 of last year and other hlt models in general of this year.

the Samsungs seem to have a wealth of settings even more then the many we can easily see/access. but therefore calibration also costs more for the samsung dlps.

but given those settings and this models not so great out of box picture and green push etc. it begs for pro calibration

though i'm sure you could get results as well doing it yourself with DVE or the like, i'm just not up for that and willing to give the pro's a chance so i maybe learn a thing or 2 to maybe do my other HLT myself though i wont have their tools etc.

i've noticed this too though I didn't realize it was just the faces though i think you may be right. some things faces and especially whiter/lighter areas get a brightened distortion. I think this will def be fixed by calibration....

sadly the bowing can't be but as we all know its only 4:3 and personally it doenst' even bother me anymore. you can just hit the wide zoom button but i do wish samsung had an auto size adjustment like Philips does which automatically adjusts the picture to fill the screen for 4:3 material etc. and you can see it do it and switch when you go from SD to HD and vice versa.

only thing i'm worried about is not really being able to use the prset standard, movie and dynamic modes as they calibrate the set to just use Movie.

i guess you can still use those modes but i think they wont be the same as factory which could be agood thing. I usually use standard for tv, movie for movies obviously, Game mode for games, duh and then dynamic for any of those when the room is bright (daylight etc) though mostly for tv in daylit room.

I hoping its going to look so good though that I wont ever really need or want to use the diff preset modes and he did say that I could still use Game mode for video games so i guess thats left alone or gets calibrated also.

i dunno i'm a noob to pro cal or calibration really at all (at leat as far as using a dvd like DVE or something to do it)

most testimonials rave about how great it is and they didint' know their tv could look this good and its more 3d etc. etc. but i've heard at least a couple say their picture was dimmer and they werne't sure it was so much better so i'm trying not to get my hopes up and i realize they set it to the optimized standards or whatever and yoru eye may just have to get used to it but it is the ideal picture.

either way I know it will be improvement cus the off greens or green push (though not as bad as JVC) i have heard ppl mention about HLT's in general can only be fixed by a pro calibration supposedly so its worth it for that.

I'd like to confirm that most of you are seeing pincushion\\bowing on 4:3 mode only.
I ask this, because like a previous poster stated, on my set it is actually in all modes.

I find it very apparent with the following res. and modes:
480i - 4:3
720p - Just Scan and 16:9 (they display the same)
1080i showing 4:3 content or commercials - Just Scan and 16:9
To summarize: any image that cannot fill the screen and\\or displays a vertical line.

I don't like stretching 720p or 1080i as the overscan cuts off the 4-5% of the top and bottom images.

Anyone that has contacted Costco Concierge on the issue, what has been their response?

Has anyone been successful in having Samsung repair the issue?

Also,
Any success with the Service or Diagnostic codes listed above?
I have tried them several times and they do not seem to work.

Update: Service Menu does work, Diagnostic does not so far.

Feedback: Firmware Version from the Function Help menu does work.

id like to know if any of samsungs techs have a fix for this also,I was told soemthing about adjusting the mirrors for geo?