CMRA's S-I-L-V-E-R solution starts here: - Page 2

Wow. You ARE way behind in that respect, having luxuriated for the last year in front of your S-I-L-V-E-R. Both PB_Maxxx and Tiddler both have had successes with painting Roll Ups, and the Tidd did it with a roller no less!


Crazy stuff that. but "crazy" is another acronym for DIY in many minds anyway. Bruce can's "Roof paint" follows something along those lines, but it goes on pretty thick, so there's that to consider.

I cannot elaborate on several advances recently made by "people' in the "flexible material" realm, but at least on this Board there are the previous examples that exist to refute your declaration of "Don't go there with Paint". As for the S-I-L-V-E-R itself being used in that application, the Faux Glaze is applied so very thinly, and itself retains a rubbery consistency (...although it exhibits a definite toughness to that aspect, not a tendency to peel...) that you can consider the use of it for a flexible coating on Roll Ups a done deal. Touche'.

(awwww, why can't I type faster. When Tiddlers' on deck, I can't ever respond fast enough.

Peck, peck, peck, peck, peck, peck, peck, peck, peck, peck, peck, peck, peck,............ )

CRMA,

it's a real simple substitute...
take your S-I-L-V-E-R and replace 1/3 of the faux glaze with delta's textile medium (found at michaels).

viola. a textile based screen mix flexible enough for everyday roll up and down viewing.

cheers.

so... After reading all of this, I see 2 options to make a silver painted screen.

Behr silver metallic and Delta ilver metallic.

What was the concentration used in the faux glaze reading the .txt file, I see a 20:1

but i don't want to ruin my board so i wanted to ask.

THANKS!!

Forbidden One,

It was a mix of 95% Faux Glaze and 5% Delta Silver Metallic
(4 oz SM to 64 oz. FG .... <3.4 oz is actually 5% but rounded up to allow the use of a full 4 oz. bottle>

To that was added 33% additional Filtered Water, percentage-wise to the Glaze/SM mix (24 Oz.)

That results in a total volume of 92 Oz.

The Drywall was expertly smoothed, then completely Primed 3 times with Kilz2 via a roller regimine, then sprayed Primed one last time lightly using the Wagner CS.

The S-I-L-V-E-R mix must be stirred completely using the mixing tool I showed, and then 7-8 ultra thin coats are sprayed with a HVLP rig, or the Wagner CS, also as shown.

Just take your time, do it right...or ask how to, and you'll be very happy with the results.

MMan

Well, painted me up a 2' x 2' panel a few nights ago. This is the high gain MM version. Except I used the Behr Silver Metallic. Laid down 7 duster coats with my HVLP. Put it up against my rolled screen and a few other test panels that were rolled.

As I suspected, the gain is due to the gloss of the mix. I have some pictures but am too lazy to post them now. I'll post some later. With the flash, it is a blazing white hotspot. Without the flash a dark blue gray looking colour. I will take some gray scale shots later on. My first impression is that it will be a really cool coloured screen. Way too much blue. And all of this with my colour temp setting turned almost all the way down. I can make this observation because my current screen is pretty close to D65 colour temp and gray scale is within DE of 6 from 20-100 IRE.

If you don't like my comments, please don't post. These are my opinions and observations. I am not trashing anything here. I just wanted to see what the hype was about and I painted a screen my own. I am being as honest and open as I can and I don't want this to be misconstrued as me being an a-hole.

Sorry benven, but I can't oblige that request in this instance.




First you say it's the HG mix, then state you used the Behr SM instead of the Delta Ceramcoat SM that is specifically stated as being the chief difference between the two mixes.

You make no mention of the ratio of behr SM to the rest of the mix either?

Then you say the finished screen is a dark blue gray color. That clearly says you have added far too much Behr SM into the mix, and then applied coatings that altogether add up to far too thick and densely packed a layering.

Also there is no mention of your having gone to the trouble of having primed your board with the required Kilz2, nor even state what type of board you used.

I can only see it in this "light".

Absolutely in no way would the screen be as dark as you relate if the proper ingredients were mixed in their proper proportions, and the spraying procedure was followed. Others have done this application now as full sized projects, and have encountered nothing at all of the sort of results you state. For real visual proof, just look to the macro shots of the actual color of the coatings. They are obviously far from being a dark gray. And on my older "S-I-L-V-E-R in Gestation" thread there are images of the surface when the Behr SM was used, under flash and in natural lighting and none exhibit any trace of "Blue Gray".

Would you please consider trying it again, using the correct materials in the correct ratios, and do it correctly as outlined in the posted instructions? And will you please post images of your process and materials?

That would make a world of difference as far as anyone taking your observations at their net worth.

Thank you.

I agree with Ben's assessment. When I tried this mix, and yes it was followed exactly, I found it to be very hard to watch. To bright, hotspots, and way to cool an image.

Then you should also post your own "pictorial" along with your comments.

Thank you as well.

PICS are a waste of time imo. I had a full screen done in it, not a sample. I have also repainted over it as I honestly, could not stand it. PICS do capture what is seen in person. I have taken hundreds of pics in the past and unless you are comparing 2 things side my side there really is no benefit in taking them, hence the reason you dont see me post pics anymore.

Biglyle, you never posted any image concerning S-I-L-V-E-R, just your opinion. An image would have counted for something to a great many. An opinion counts for nothing without supportive examples.

If for no other reason, any comparison made would easily show the abberations you "agree upon". Or not, as the case might also turn out to be. Without any attempt made on either of your parts, there is no substance to such expressions of opinion. And BTW, you do realize your accepting and agreeing with something you have absolutely no details about? Just a stated opinion.

Strange that. Well maybe not so strange, all things considering......

Anyway, I encourage you to try again and post up the results. If you do not want to accept that, then really, your presence on this thread is meaningless.

What good would it have done with nothing to compare it to? I painted the whole screen, I hated it, my wife hated it. Would is help if she posted too? I honestly dont care what you think of my opinion. My opinion is based on what I saw. I have no agenda in this, as I dont know the creator of this mix from a hole in the ground. I tried it, I didnt like, I gave my reasons why. It doesnt need to be 1000 words long to have meaning, and it sure as heck doesnt need 20 useless screen shots to go along with it.

I knew this was going to happen. Why did I ever post? I just wanted to see the hype behind SILVER. I didn't see the hype and posted my honest comments. No malicious motives, just an honest to goodness post. Someone, MM, jumps all over it and questions my integrity and motives?? What did I do to HIM?

I'll post pictures on my time, not anyone else's. I'll do grayscales, on my time, no one else's.

If the whole intent was not to make me post on this board anymore, good luck, that won't happen. Too many issues on this board caused by one person and one person only. I told you not to post if you weren't going to be civil and you still did. And it's me??

thank you sir!

I'll ask if i have any further questions

In all of the pictures SILVER on the right, an UPW panel on the left and my mix as the main screen.




First picture is nothing projected on the screen, just the flash from the camera. In the second picture, a 100IRE white field is projected onto the screens. Taken from about a 60 degree angle. I won't comment on the pictures, I think they speak for themselves.

I'm convinced.

But of course all these images do are show the S-I-L-V-E-R application as it "was / is" when the much darker Behr Silver Metallic was / is being used. With that choice, everything is / becomes a bit more problematical as far as getting everything right.

But only just a little.

You know.....BigLyle was right all along. By virtue of their poorly taken nature, and with no images projected upon them to make additional comparisons against, benven's photos are essentially worthless.

CMRA did you receive my PM yesterday, no reply as of yet. I needed additional info if you don't mind. Thank you.

Golffnutt

Thanks CMRA but your reply did not answer my questions on other topics other than drywall. I resent the PM just a few minutes ago. Thank you.

Golffnutt

Thanks for your help CMRA. Have a nice evening.

Hey CMRA, Try not to use the "BF' name. Use "Silver Fire" instead.


The difference between the Behr 436 and the Kilz2 is the Behr is an outdoor primer, and presents a very durable surface that actually improves upon the performance of the Behr UPW it could replace in DIY mixes that use UPW as the "White' for their Base Coat.

Both being Primers, they both should do virtually the same job, and do it equally well. But the first order of the day in advanced DIY is DO NOT CHANGE ANYTHING, lest your milage vary considerably, and your engine sputter, seize up, and leave you walking.


Oh Pe-shaw!
Let's consider a few things.

1. You cannot paint on the floor, and so you'll have to place that 10' tall piece of stock on top of a 2' to 3' stand, leaving the top of the material at 13'

2. The material is gonna bend. Count on it....even when it's on a backer board if you stand it up on it's long axis.

3. Running horizontally across the 67" "height" will result in you making 2x as many passes, with 2x as many places where you must get as good an overlapping coverage as you possibly can. That means 2x the chance of not doing so.

Don't worry. At the speed your going to travel across the material, your not going to have any issues as far as holding the Gun steady, or screwing up your overlaps. In fact, if you have your Gun set up correctly and your Mix thinned properly, it will take you under 2 minutes to spray each coat. Unless you posses "Olive Oyle" arms, you won't as much as tremble.


You'd have to use Drywall tape and Drywall compound. Not something to tackle yourself as a "first time thing" unless you HAVE THE TIME TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS EXPLICITLY. When the outcome of your project is entirely dependent upon how smooth your "to be painted surface" is, you don't want to see a single error. And with SF paint, errors can jump out and smack you in the eye.

Wassat? A PM notification from Golffnutt?

Go figure.

What does this mean? Does CMRA not have Behr SM in his screen?

Wht do my photos have to have amovie playing on them? Can you not see the hotspotting with just a flash? Can you not see how dark SILVER really is off axis from my 100 IRE white field? Granted, I am horrible with a camera and the white balance was set to auto.

Regardless of how poor my picture taking abilities are, my eyes tell me this is not the screen for me. I painted it and I posted my OPINION. Now where is your shootout? Should I thoughtfully bump the other thread?

Do you mind not quoting me out of context. Especially since your photos are just as useless as anyones.