Originally Posted by BobRob
Seems to me, and it could just be my imagination, that the "Luminoso" incarnation of Silver Metallic looks like it is indeed finer grained.
Well............down yar in de Bottoms, I've yet to see "Luminoso" replace the Old Jars. It may well be a different formula.
I can remember back when (...yawn cue...) I attempted my first SM/MM Screen. A 14' diagonal 16:9 no less. It was Drywall, smoothed and Primed.
I used a underweight capacity Compressor (17 gal.), and a Harbor Freight Cheapo HVLP, You must make note, that at the beginning, I first tried to maintain a "Roll Only" position, (...for all the obvious "easy-cheap- motives....) to illustrate to myself and others the "Satisfaction Index" ideal of producing an impeccable BIG image for less than $10.00 per Go.....Rolling supplies-wise. (THAT is a Pipe Dream if you do "everything" you can to assure success.
But the mighty and legendary "Ones that Came Before" on Screens Forum had advocated Spraying as the only true way to a perfect finish (...done right, of course....) I occasionally suffered through Roller marks, Sagging, Orange Peel and other unexplainable Texture issues, clumps of paint, defective Rollers (...couldn't be me....) and all the Sanding that had to accompany those PITA's.
So what do I attempt in my inexperience to spray first? Behr Silver Metallic...among the gloppiest of all known paints. Vicious like cooked Sugar, and all "flaky sparkly", I reasoned that a 2.2 mm Tip would let it pass. That, and about 45 psi at the Gun. But the wimpy Compressor couldn't keep up, and I had to stop between every 2 rows and wait for 3 minutes at least before I could continue. If I didn't wait, the reduced air pressure would result in a far too thin deposit of paint. I was not a Happy Camper.
I tell ya, it took me 2 days of spraying to get a SM Base laid down. And when I went to spray the MississippiMud over it? That took as long if not longer, because MMud was worse that the behr SM!
But the finish I got across a 14' diagonal surface was........well, 'almost' a religious experience. Without imperfections or lines, a bit "sand papery" to the touch (...paint was too thick....too much air pressure....thinning came much later.) it previewed here on AVS back in later 2003. It was .....real good.
I was sold on the SM/MM application.
But the "Behr SM" experience turned me back off on the idea of spraying, so I continued to advocate the improving of Rolling technique so the Behr SM could go up looking like a sheet of aluminum. (.Hmmmm, there's an idea....)
Had I used a paint like the Delta SM, and thinned the paints with judicious amounts of H2O, who knows where the art of DIY Screen making would have gone on too?
OTOH, cheap bastage that I am, I wouldn't be at all opposed to paying significantly less than I did for the SM for an equal or better result.
So where might one locate DSM?
Easiest to find at Artist/Craft Supplies like "Michael's", and Hobby Lobby. I've even see it in the Crafts Dept. at WalMart.
[quote]Also, you'd mentioned "Thrifty White Hardboard" in one of your posts. Where is that to be found?[quote]
Home Depot, in the Hard Board Dept. Check your piece for scratches (most are OK for painting on) It's great stuff at $11.00 for a 4' x 8' x 1/4" glassy smooth Vinyl Laminated substrate. You just "prime" that bright white surface with the Top Coat your using....by applying the first 2 coats as "Dusters" and letting each dry COMPLETELY. Do that, and you have all the "Tack" you need for subsequent "slightly" heavier coats.
I came across a note of yours, I believe, that suggested Behr FG is great for low-lumen LCD applications, but is prone to warm-spotting with higher output projectors. If that's true, is there a better screen formulation and/or process than S-I-L-V-E-R that you'd recommend for a DLP pj (Infocus SP7210) in a light-controlled room?
Lemme think about when I spoke /what about I was referring to on that statement.
Actually, that quote might be attributed to CMRA. But if not, it's still true in some, if not all instances. What's a "High Output" PJ? Used to be that the SP7210's 1100 lumens would have been considered such. But the Hot Spotting some encountered back then was due as much to lens design, PJ positioning, and the 'then current' Screen technologies. Be them Mfg/DIY.
Basically, with a big screen that is borderline "retro" reflective due to imparted sheen, if a wide zoom is not accommodated with correct Pj position (...as close as possible), at best one can expect the majority of the surface in the center of the screen to be observably brighter than the edges in screens where differences in the content's brightness is accentuated by Panning actions and the reverse....static images.
Originally and Historically, getting the use of any Glaze down pat has been the Bane of DIY Screen makers. From Day One, it's been an obvious choice for enhancing an image...as were things like Silver Metallic, Aluminum Paint (...I remember people draining cans of Rustoleum and then trying to re-spray or even Roll it!) It's always been the "perfecting" of it's (...their...) use tat was/is the trick.
CMRA has come the closest IMO, to finding the "perfect" balance between what Glaze works best, and the overall ratio of SM to Glaze. Somewhere there might exist a tweak that goes beyond what substituting the Delta SM for the Behr SM brings into play. Or there might be a whole 'nother combo lying in the shadows of someones mind. Muwahahahahah!
get a grip.
The last 7210 I worked with, I used RS-MaxxMudd on a 110"er. A revamped MMud-SE (Silver Edition) composed of Sherwin Williams Luminous White (quart=33%) Delta White Pearl (24.oz = 3- 8 Oz Bottles) 32 oz. Minwax Clear Satin Water based PolyAcrylic, 1 - 8 oz bottle Delta SM, 1 oz from a 2 oz bottle of Folk Art Antique Gold Metallic. 25% added Filtered water. Mix well.
Enjoy with Olive.
Your options are in effect, almost to numerous to list and discuss. Don't get me started.
Most opt for the latest/greatest applications. For you' I do think S-I-L-V-E-R can fit the bill, because I recall that to even come close to achieving the rated 2800:1 "On-Off": CR of the 7210, it had to be on Low lamp mode, and adjusted downward across the board to obtain 65k balance.
S-I-L-V-E-R will help restore the "PoP' without affecting Contrast but in the most positive ways. Making it deeper, the color saturation more lush without blooming, and bring out subtle detail that you haven't seen prior. Whites will blaze when they should, and be natural in all cases.
You just have to get past the spraying part to enjoy all that. And to do that, you practice first. By two pieces of TWH. Splurge a wee bit. First use the backside of one to get your viscosity/distance/speed down pat. The dark brown side will show the thin wetness of the S-I-L-V-E-R's first coat enough to help you judge. because by my experience and reasoning, it's the uncertainty of the quality of the spray job...both early on and into as far along as the 5-6th coat, that makes some look skyward and rolls back their confidence factor.
But be it 7 or 9 coats, it's plainly obvious when your where you want to be. Almost suddenly, at the 7th-8th coat, the Silver Metallic will start really filling in, and the blotchy-nes and striping that freaks some out early on is history.
At that point, the danger shifts to your not stopping, and thereby making the Silver Metallic become too opaque, and hence too reflective...as in Retro. If that happens, you've gone all the way back to SM/MM, and all you can do is spray on a watered down "Re-mix" of S-I-L-V-E-R that includes an additional 4 Oz of UPW or the SWLW .
Of course...I wouldn't know about all that "Oops" stuff.