CMRA's S-I-L-V-E-R solution starts here: - Page 21

I made a couple of videos of the straining through the sock strainer and of me spraying. I don't know if its right or not to be honest. You'll want to turn the volume down a bit for the first video and yes, you have my permission to laugh frantically( as if you needed it, lol) in watching me trying to hold the camera with one hand, the gallon paint can with the other one and holding the paint cup with my feet. Once i saw it it made me laugh to, lol. Was hard getting a good view of the paint straining into the paint cup.

http://s591.photobucket.com/user/newdude19781/media/DSCF3960.mp4.html

http://s591.photobucket.com/user/newdude19781/media/DSCF3961.mp4.html

I'm concerned about the crater looking part in the paint pattern which you will see in the video. The pattern at 14 inches away is a little over 10 inches long so that meets the requirements. Here is a pic of a quick sweep over my plexiglass.

the paint doesn't gather well on the plexiglass it seemed to shrink into a bunch of dots. When doing S-I-L-V-E-R is the paint supposed to be a even thickness through the whole screen after making all your swipes from left to right using the paint gun. Like if you where trying to do a ligth fusion using Silver Fire and the whole layer has to be even and same thickness throughout?? I'm not familiar with this paint mixture and not sure how it's supposed to act but I'm not going any further until i get your opinion and approval. I'll make some more videos if you need.

No!

Gosh....I'm not laughing.

I know you already know that dusters are sparse....and that translates to being dots until the following coats fills in the spaces.

When applied to Plastic, the look of "speckling" is enhanced with the first sparse coats. And the shrinkage....that's what paint does when it dries. There is not enough put up for it to "cover" so the big dots become smaller dots, the space between them get bigger, and the next coat shoots paint spots into the vacant areas. They (dots) also shrink....but now there are smaller spaces waiting for the next round of "Dots" Etc. Etc. Etc.

Man...if they did not shrink, and instead flowed together, they would gather weight, reach a shearing point, and start a cascading motion.

AKA: RUNS !!!!

Example to compare? Think Rain Drops on a vertical window pane running together. After 3-4 collect, down they go, collecting more and more....going faster.........OMG.

I'm scaring myself! Really...because I've seen paint do essentially the exact same thing. So let those droplets DRY ! Never try to rush the "Fill In" time table. Be patient and careful, and everything will do just fine.


OH yeah....paint straining looks just about perfect. But now I know you realize that spending for a extra New Gallon Can to strain the mix into would eliminate having to strain each and every Cupful. And should you need to restir after 2-3 hours, you can do so and just keep on pouring.

Gotta love those Prehensile Footsies though......

So now you've seen just how wet S-I-L-V-E-R is.....adhere rigidly to the advised technique...and if anything, err on caution's side and go faster from a further distance and maintain the needed overlap....rather than EVER do rows from a closer distance and slower speed.

And OMG...never stop in one place...or start up the Gun while within the paint-able Screen area..

No paint mix is more apt to run than S-I-L-V-E-R

Thanks MississippiMan. That info relieves my fears. I guess I'll go ahead start spraying my TWH tomorrow and will keep you on how it's going.

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!So, I did my first layer and I think something big is wrong. I fear i might have to much water in the mixture. The mixtures acts as if there is to much water and not enough paint. And the solution is separating to much instead of putting a layer down like if you spray with paint. I made another video, a better one LOL, that shows the dilution straining rate through the filter and of my screen. Whats your take on it:

http://s591.photobucket.com/user/newdude19781/media/DSCF3970.mp4.html?sort=3&o=0

here's also some more pics of the screen:





Maybe something with gun, I'm not sure. Your advise?? what could be causing this??

If it doesn't run...run with it. Give it at least 4 Dusters then inspect.

Or leave it (the Can) open overnight, and stir.

Sheesh...how many times does it have to be said that a true Duster does not put a "layer" down....just a dusting of "spots" ? I see spots.

You really should take my advice and strain the entire mix at once.

okay. I just wasn't sure if those spots were to big or not?? Won/t that show up as big dots(or big to me) in the final outcome??I would think that those Dot's would be very evident once the last layer is put on and the screen is done? I took your advise and strained the entire mix as well.

I was wondering. I'll have a bunch of the mix left over and was wondering how would S-I-L-V-E-R do on black out cloth, that you buy at a fabric store. The catch is though, that I want to be able roll it up so i can take it from one place to another to use with my projector?? I would like to paint a big 4 ft by 7ft black out cloth to bring with me when i go to my friends house that i can hang up and take down when i get ready to leave. Would this be possible. don't need to super roll it up just enough rolls to put in vehicle.

Due to the need for S-I-L-V-E-R to have a blemish free surface, and the fact that spraying onto BOC usually requires that it receive Primer and sanding, I'd advise against it. Of course you could try a direct application.....without the primer coats...and you would have to sand the surface after the 3rd / 4th coats to remove the infamous "Fuzzies" (...another reason for priming....) and while I'm certain the coating would retain flexibility, repeated moving and rolling / folding / accidental creasing would undoubtedly take a toll.

guess it would be better to find another paint mixture then. I guess i search the forums and see if i can find a simple paint mixture to do the tast and still hold up to the rolling and unrolling.

Search here.....S-I-L-V-E-R isn't the only choice, and you'll need a paint that is flexible....not much else anywhere else will be.

RS-MaxxMudd is you best choice IMO.

Change of plans. I was going to do S-I-L-V-E-R on a sheet of TWH but found out my screen size will be way to big for the TWH. I was really wanting to avoid spraying on my wall itself so I don't have to repaint if I ever move out. Since, I can't find anything bigger then 4ft x 8ft that is as cheap as the TWH, I'm going to just spray on the wall. I know I need to make the wall surface "Baby Butt Smooth" as it's called, so should I just begin sanding the wall first then spray on 2 coats of Killz Primer or spray the primer on first then sand the primer to baby butt smooth?? Second, If I sand the wall first, What grit sand paper should I begin with for the serious sanding? What finer grit sand paper should I end with to smooth it all out??

want to sand today so Which would be the right grit sandpaper to use for??

Get two 3" x 7" x 1" Sanding Sponges. One from the HD Paint Department...a Medium / Coarse combo and using the Coarse side first, sweep sand the surface to be painted with light but even strokes. Do a "once over" with every area receiving 8-10 swipes...the move over slightly and continue.

Now without wiping, take the Medium side and repeat, using slightly more pressure.

Lastly, wipe off the dust...then use the same size Fine Grit Sponge found in the "Drywall" section, and do very tall, vertical strokes with a light touch, taking pains to keep you palm flat on as much surface area of the Sponge as possible while applying just light pressure. Be sure to slightly overlap each vertical sanded row with the ensuing row.

Now you prime...two coats....then using the Fine Sponge again in the same manner as previously described. Then apply a final coat of Primer. You should have that "Baby But" smooth surface in front of you.

But even so...shine a bright light across the surface of the screen from one side then the other, and carefully inspect the surface for any blemishes. (...mostly cracks - pin holes - varying texture...)

Then you start spraying S-I-L-V-E-R. Expect the first coat to look like a Polka-Dot kinda splatter...but with very small "dots. Those "dots" are your friends...after they dry they act like little pinions to help subsequent layers to "tooth" and hold on (...not run or slide...) You already know it takes 8 coats...and every coat goes up in the same manner. Very light....very quickly....70% overlap....14" distance....about 3 seconds transit time across a 9' wide surface, Be sure you run off (past) the screen's desired surface area, drop the 30% of Row height, then head back the other direction.

Never stop in the middle of a row...never slow down....never "go back" to fill in an area you think you did too sparsely....let the next coat fill in. Don't rush the drying time required after you have 4-5 coats up because drying time WILL increase.from just under 30 minutes to up to a full hour under even good drying conditions. The only reason the Faux Glaze will dry in a hour is because it's applied so thinly.

If there is one thing I should stress the most, it's "Be Consistent". Second most important....let the screen dry adequately between coats.

When you say "sweep sand" MississippiMan, what do you mean exactly. Should i be starting from the top and sanding down or from the right or left and move left and right. Should i do overlap sanding like if was spraying a screen and overlapping each row by the 60% to 70%?? How much pressure should i be placing on the sanding sponge when using the coarse side?

....read my last post again.....3rd paragraph...it's all there..that's the paragraph you should have quoted.

Up & Down. Long, Tall Light Strokes. Overlap the next preceding row.

Paragraphs 1 &3 describe the same method....just differ in the use of various Grit Sanding Sponges.

Thats what i was thinking but i just wanted to be sure about it. Thanks Mississippiman.

Think i put WAY to much water in my S-I-L-V-E-R mix. It's straining to quickly. Left the lid of and set the gallon container in the sun to evaporate some of the water. Problem i see with it though, is that as some of the water does evaporate some of the mix also drys. Might need to leave it off couple of days. Whats the best rout when it comes to getting some of the water out of the mix without causing the paint to dry up to??

Well you don't put it in the sun! Just leave the lid off for a few hours, and go back every 2 hours to stir. 6 hours out to do it. Stir, restrain, and try again.

So, I'm finally getting around to getting my wall prepared to paint on. I'm going about filling the screws holes in with spackle paste. Few questions before I paint though.
I know the wall surface I'm painting the S-I-L-V-E-R on has to be near perfect. One problem I have is that on certain parts of the wall there are little raised spots from the screws that where screwed in to attach the drywall to the boards behind them. I'm guessing I'm going to have to try to pull the paint and spackle off the original painters job that was used to hide the screw heads but How do I go about getting rid of those raised parts due to the screw head??? I just can't take the screws out because then the Drywall would loose support that the screws add. What do I do abut this. Second, my wall has little dents here and there from stuff hitting the wall so do I need to make sure to fill in every little hole and what not with spackle to get the whole surface to be even in all respects??

Do not use Spackle. It does not dry with the same texture as Dry Wall Compound. If a hole is deep, Spackle can be used to fill it up to a point where a final application of Dry Wall Compound fills / covers the small remaining depression.

The Screws need to be reset. Carefully scrape away / cut away the top of each Screw bump, and using a Hand held Phillips, twist the screws in just enough more to set the Bugle head slightly below the surface of the paper.

Then fill with Compound, let dry, sand, then skin once again. There is ONE correct way to fill / cover Screw heads. It starts with the Screws being sunk correctly.

So avoid Spackle. It is just a rapid drying mix that has too coarse a texture, and it's also got a different absorbancy. No one ever uses it for anything other a quick "Hole Filler-upper" Use Compound, usually at least two ;light applications, to fill up slight scratches and dent. Scrape down any "bunp" the skim. After you have hit every defect and sanded them smooth (...tip: Sand the edges of any area first until "feathered" then only VERY LIGHTLY sand the center of the "blemish".)... skim the entire Screen surface with a light coat of Compound, and lightly sand. Only by creating a surface where the texture is the same all over will you really achieve a "perfect" base to apply both Primer and S-I-L-V-E-R

It seems I've related all this before. But it also always bears repeating.

is kilz or kilz2 the still recommended primer to be sprayed on before spraying the s-i-l-v-e-r on. 2 coats of primer sprayed on with the no name paint gun, right?

Also, Im curious.about something. I know s-i-l-v-e-r is ment to be sprayed on top of a white background but has anyone tried it with the added use of a mirror. Now, first let me explain. I don't mean getting rid of the white under layer of Kilz primer and using just the mirror but what if you sprayed the Kilz primer on a mirror first then sprayed the s-i-l-v-e-r on that. Or to better explain. Put on just enough Kilz primer that it gives the needed white undercoat to make the s-i-l-v-e-r work but making the Kilz just slightly thin enough that it allows a little projector light to pass through the primer and hit the mirror to give a fusion of contrast help from the dark underlying of the mirror. Just curious if something like that would be okay to do without messing up the original formulas gain.