CMRA's S-I-L-V-E-R solution starts here: - Page 4

I've got another s-i-l-v-e-r success story. I've been projecting with a mitsubishi hd1000 onto a cream colored, textured wall. I decided it was time for an upgrade and ran accross this forum searching for paint to use. after reading tons of posts, i decided to take the plunge and go with s-i-l-v-e-r. I scraped the texture and paint off, fixed some bad spots with drywall mud, and rolled on the 3 coats of kilz2. I almost quit at this point because of all the bumps left by my roller. I assumed they would go away with a sanding, but an hour only had minimal effect. I decided to go ahead anyway and started the 7 coat behr faux glaze/michael's metallic silver mix. I used a wagner 770 with the 413 tip that came with it and sprayed very lightly with about 45 minutes of dry time between each coat. When I was done, I fired up the projector and it was amazing how much better a dvd looked on it. I then tried gears of war (xbox 360) and was even more impressed. I am left wondering about two things. first, did I put enough on to get the full s-i-l-v-e-r effect. It seems like I was left with about half of my original mix (1/2 gallon glaze, 4 oz metallic, and 24 oz water). The screen is a little larger than 4 by 8. Second, would the primer bumps left by the roller detract significantly? It seems like the process worked but then again I started with textured yellow.

As far as amount left, you'll easily have over 1/2 of the mixed amount left at that size. I did a 16' x 92" wall and had over 1/3rd left.

you know if you reached the right "on screen" concentration when the screen takes on a "silvery white" appearance that shows no real degree of individualized Silver Metallic particles upon inspection from 1'-2'.

Your sanding probably did more to effect a good surface than you realize. It sounds like you got some "Orange Peel" texture from applying the Kilz2 just a little too thick, and you built that up over the 3 layers. when that happens, sanding may smooth the surface out, but still you seem to see the "pattern" of the Orange Peel. If you had any real bumps, they would stand out as defined areas made noticiable by the Silver Metallic's CR enhancement tendencies.

I'm betting your doing just fine.

Now, take some screenies and give us some "Eye Candy' to digest.

CMRA, what do you mean "For duster coats only"? Aren't all 7 coats duster coats?

And it's applied over 3 coats of kilz-2, correct?

Also, the 100% SM coat that used to be sandwiched between kilz-2 has been dropped from the formulation now, right?

CMRA was only repeating the obvious....that the S-I-L-V-E-R formula is for "Duster Coats" only


Yes


Wherever did that come from? Had to be from someone else's misinterpretation because neither I nor CMRA have ever advocated such a step.

Are you interested in this doing this application, or merely asking questions?

Me thinks cynical2 is 100% correct and you, as usual, are 100% incorrect.

SILVER FROM CMRA

First, I said:

To which you, MM, replied:

Usually when one starts a sentence starts with a form of address (as I did by specifically addressing CMRA), that means that they are asking that specific person a question. Based on reading numerous posts from CMRA, I'm 100% confident that he doesn't need you to speak for him. While I appreciate the input from anyone that is willing to offer it, my preference is to hear it straight from the man who invented the formula. Other people may believe that they have their facts right, and be 100% confident in their own ability to answer a question addressed to someone else, but they may be mistaken. For an example of what I mean, see below.

Then, I said:

To which you replied:

Here is the example (mentioned above) of someone being sure that they know the answer to a question, when in fact they don't (again, this is why I directly posed my questions to the inventor of the formula). Back when silver started it was a rolled application (spraying was optional), and a piece of the instructions stated:



Your use of the word "merely" gives me pause. I'm not sure if it was intended to be as condescending as it came across, so I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and assume that you just don't understand how you come across when you post something like this. Currently, I'm seeking to understand the formula and it's application. I may apply it at some point in the not-so-distant future...or I may not. I just put Kilz2 on my wall today, will assess the image, and will proceed down the simplest, least expensive path that I believe will create an image that will knock the socks off of anyone that steps into my HT. Part of making a well informed decision is to research the options that exist, and then to base one's decision on the data gathered during the process of conducting that research. And, the act of gathering said data often involves "merely asking questions."

Benven, your right, and of course so are you too Cynical2. After a year's gone past, and not having ever decided to try that first version myself, I didn't revisit S-I-L-V-E-R until it became a spray ONLY solution. Thanks for the "Smilely", benven.
As for the validity of the original formula being even considered, I think CMRA's latest posts in THIS specific thread, concurring with mine as they do, pretty much would convince most that the "year old" info had changed.

As for "piping in" Cynical2, I did so for the right reasons, to answer a question. If stepping in and doing such without being personally asked to do so was to be considered a crime on a Open DIY Forum, you be hard pressed to find many "innocents" . You'd hope to be harder pressed to find someone who'd make an issue of it. Who knows but that between two answers might lie the best info available?

Thanks for the "benefit of doubt". But had I used the word "just" instead of "Merely" would you have pointed that out as well? Most likely, if you wanted to. I do suppose if one was to examine it so closely , it (...the use of the wording....) did make it a bit easier for your to misinterpret my intentions. All I was trying to do was draw out from you if you had any serious intent that might lead to your actually doing something, and had you replied in the positive, my comments would have followed that vein.

I'd respectfully suggest that you not construct posts that go looking for side issues where there are none, or create them by doing so. That would be in keeping with being On Topic and being nice as well. Not that you were "not nice", just not granting quite the "benefit" you seem to think you were.

The fact of the matter is that it used to be a step in the process, and I was looking for confirmation from the inventor of the formula that it was no longer. Your reply of "Wherever did that come from? Had to be from someone else's misinterpretation because neither I nor CMRA have ever advocated such a step" simply isn't true.


For someone like myself, trying to wade through hundreds of DIY screen threads, a common theme emerges. That theme is that there seems to be as much bad information within a thread as there is good. It was for this reason that I addressed the question specifically to CMRA...because I wanted to make sure that I've got it right. I'm not in any way implying that people on an open forum shouldn't answer open questions. Most questions aren't asked to anyone specifically, and therefore are fair game for anyone with an opinion to chime in. When someone else chooses to answer a question intended for a specific member, then the person who the question was intended for (in this case CMRA) may now assume that the question has been answered, and therefore that no reply from him adds any value. In the meantime, the person that posed the question (me, in this case) is left wondering if, in fact, the information they received from a 3rd party is accurate or not. To be clear, I'm not saying or implying that your answer isn't correct...I'm simply explaining why I asked CMRA specifically (and hoped to hear back from him). If he answers, I can be 100% sure that the info is valid (vs, perhaps 99% sure if someone else whose knowledgeable answers, or 50% sure if a bonehead answers). Clearly you are a knowledgeable person, so I'm now 99% confident that I have the right answer.


I told you how your question came across to me when I read it...keep in mind that the question came on the heels of you basically telling me that you don't know where in the world I could get such bad information from...that both you and CMRA have never advocated such an approach. The two taken together led me to the conclusion that you were "irritated" with my post altogether. If you say that wasn't the intent of the question, I take you at your word. To be clear, I don't make a habit of looking for problems where there are none...though my history here is limited to 30 posts or so, I think if you'd read through them that you'd find this is the first time I've taken issue with anything posted by anyone. I'm not one that seeks conflict...in fact, I don't like anything that adds stress to my life.

Finaly got around to taking some screen shots of my labor...I suck with a camara so the image I see is much deeper and more defined than these..

Screen ended up being 116" seating is 17'

All from SD DVD's on a samsung 1080p upscaling player feed through hdmi..













This was takin with my back to the screen wall down the whole length..

Beautiful pics, turbo!

Turbo - I have an HD1000u as well and wanted to confirm the 'mix' you used.

2-3 coats of Kilz2
7 coats: 1/2 gal Behr Faux Glaze #748, 4 oz Delta Ceramcoat SM, 24 oz distilled water

Thats it man, I started with a 5x10' sheet of 1/2 mdf..
Rolled three coats of slightly thinned Kilt2, after a day of drying I noticed some slight orange peal so I block sanded the entire surface with a "fine" 5$ sanding block from HD..The Kilt2 really sands easily and very smooth, just like drywall compound. Only took like 20 minutes to sand the whole thing, when I was done it looked and felt like a glass smooth sheet of drywall, only smoother..

Then I put two "duster coats" of thinned kilt2, dryed and stared the 7 dusting coats of the silver mix.. I had tape on a 1/2" edge of the board (trimmed over now) and found before each coat of silver pulling the tape back and looking at the color difference was the only way "I" could tell that it was going on..

I can see where I got the silver slightly "deeper" in some areas than others from over application, but I can only see it when the blue splash screen is up, no other time..

Great screen, formula, and process, my hats of to the "pioneers" of this stuff..

I am about ready to do this for my HD1000U also. I will be painting it directly on my wall after sanding it smooth. Hoping for similar results...

That hvlp wagner is a great investment as well.. In building the whole HT I sparyed at least 4 gallon of paint between the screen, trim, room baseboards and 45 ceiling tiles..All without missing a beat..Great tool. I plan on using it in the near future for a set of racing body work for my racebike..

Any thoughts on this Husky sprayer: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...cStoreNum=8125

I would PM MississippiMan, he's the sprayer Guru and paint guy god from the advice he gave me and all the threads I've read...
Unless you all ready have a compressor and hose, I personally would go with the electric hvlp wagner..It has a very "user friendly" learning curve..And at only 60 bucks it is a bargain..You will be painting everything you own after getting used to it.. I am literally looking for stuff around the house to paint, just for the hell of it lol...

I agree regarding MM being the best one to talk to...In the meantime, I'd read his thread about the Wagner.

As I understand it, other hvlp solutions can work...but on something as important as your screen I think I'd go with the tried and true solution of the Wagner unit if you're going to spray your screen. Several others have bought it since MM so strongly advocated it, and to my knowledge every single one of those people has been extremely pleased with the product.

Here's a possibly stupid question... My local HD only had Kilz... not Kilz2. Baking a cake and substituting marg where it asks for butter is usually fine. Is this the same suitable substitutuion?

On the bright side, the cashier rang up the wood, but some how missed the Kilz and Faux glaze! Yay1 $20 more for me!

DevonS, Standard Kilz (Water based) will do nicely.


Cynical & Turbo gave good advice.

Turbo points out that "IF" you have all the other Gear he mentioned (...plus a Water/Rust Filter, and a Regulator Valve for the Gun (none is provided) and the inherent skill needed, the HVLP Gun shown can do the job as long as the size tip matches up with the low viscosity needed.

Cynical2 states that going with the "Tried & True" is most likely best, and that is also quite correct. The Wagner CS make the necessary skill level and time required drop tremendously, and as stated, it's been picked up by others with little or no experience and been made to work. It will cost you less to get the Wagner than the Husky Gun itself.

The last argument would be this.

I own a fine rig. A 32 gallon, 5 HP compressor w/all the goodies, a Ingersoll Rand 270 HVLP gun, and I've used it...well, a bunch of times. I know what it can do, and I know what the Wagner can do, but it has sat idle now since Christmas. So let's leave it at this....;

Anybody in the Memphis Area want a good deal on a big HVLP Spray rig?

Ok...the wagner it is! Thanks

Your in for a treat. Just don't complain about how you get hooked on using the thing to spray everythin in sight.

Using the 1/2 gal Faux Glaze, 4 oz Ceramcoat SM and 24 oz Water...how much leftover should I expect after 7 dust coats on a 110" diag screen? Can I get away with half the amount (i.e. 1 quart of Faux Glaze, etc.)? Lastly, how much water should I use to thin a quart of Kilz2?

Check the top of this page. You'll probably have half the mix left. Personally, I just bought a quart of the glaze and a 2oz bottle of SM.

The choice is yours to make. Since you have to do so many light coats, you should be able to see ahead of time if your running low, and then take a breaks and go get more if needed.

That's what I'm going to do. Start off with a quart of FG and get more if I run out. Looking at tia's post, it seems I should be fine with a quart.

What about the Kilz2? How much water should I add to a quart to thin it properly?

Thanks again...this is great info!

Same as for the paint. About 1/3 equal to original bulk.
(1 Quart = add 12 Oz.)

Even with that, after mixing well, you have to test it, and then practice just enough to know you'll get good a application. Remember, once you thin to this extent, you MUST observe the proper spraying technique. The mix is very "liquid-like" and will not suffer over-application. The one excellent thing about spraying the primer is that you get in good practice before using the actual Screen paint.

u ever go to bed ,MM??

All that work to build Home Theaters, and he can't make it through a movie? MM, you need to enjoy the fruits of your labor.

What? Movies? I've seen 'em all twice anyway.

The Beer & BBQ consumed along the way is more interesting, and anyway, gettin' there is half the fun.