The "Official" Denon AVR-3808CI Thread - Page 649

In the GUI, I cannot get to MENU-->Parameter---> Audio ---> Surround Parameters. At MENU-->Parameter---> Audio ---> the selections are Tone, Room EQ, RESTORER, Night Mode and Audio Delay. The selection for Surround Parameters is not there. My manual does show many selections under Surround Parameters, but I can't get there!

What should I do now?

Jay

Are you on PLII Music? You have to activate PLII first and then you will see the relevant parameters. What appears in that menu is contextual depending on what surround mode you are in.

Bingo! Thank you. Now I have Surround Parameters, and I selected Cinema. It didn't make any noticeable difference to my center or surround speakers.

Now that the center and surround speakers are working, I would like to raise the audio levels fed to them, or reduce the front speaker volume. Am I correct in concluding that I should play with the surround parameters? If so, where should I start?

Jay

hi guys i have a question.i pulled out my 3808 to use with my sacd player.i connected it 5.1 analog.question is.should this denon detect sacd? wasnt sure if anything should come up on the screen or not.

if you connect with 5.1 analog the receiver has no way of "knowing" what the input is, it will just say EXT IN and you will get whatever signal you feed. With multich analog, there is no info contained in the signal, it's already been decoded and processed, so the receiver is essentially just functioning as an amplifier.

Question: my 3808 (while watching Star Trek VI) shut all the way off with about 9 minutes left to the movie. I had it turned up loud but not as loud as I 'used' to and it shut down. It can't be too warm since it was 70 in the room, well ventilated the AVR and I have 2 PC fans sitting on top of it blowing from front to back to keep it cool. I 'think' I changed some speaker setting (large to small) and 'think' that's what could be causing it to shut down when the 'booms' get too loud. I'm going to re-run Audyssey to see but before I do that (this weekend) does this sound like a 'cure'?

^^
You don't need to rerun Audyssey to simply change the speaker from LARGE to SMALL, and in fact, doing so actually gave the AVR more headroom and is the suggested setting. Confirm you did indeed make that change and not from SMALL---> LARGE (otherwise change it back to SMALL with 80hz crossovers). Also is your firmware up to date?

If I remember - I changed them from LARGE to SMALL. Firmware is up to date. I have my side surrounds set to 100hz crossover and surrounds to 110hz.

^^
Surrounds don't draw much power ... I'm referring to your FL/C/FR speakers. If you have a dedicated sub, all speakers should be set to SMALL with minimum of either 60hz or 80hz crossovers.

^^^ Yes - those are set to 80hz (if I remember correctly - definitely no higher) and the sub is LFE+Main.

^^
Sub set to LFE+Main has no effect in that configuration. Confirm the speakers the FL/C/FR speakers are set to SMALL as well. Also, what was the master volume when it shut down?

^^Yes - they are set to SMALL - the audio was on +1.5 I believe. I used to be able to watch the opening sequence to Cars at @-6.0 and it boomed and never clipped/shut down. Now it is routinely at lower volume levels.

^^
Are your speakers 4Ω by any chance as the AVR is not designed to drive them at those levels? Also check your speaker wire connections on the back of the AVR to ensure there are no loose strands touching another post.

No. The Aperion's are ohm compatible w/the AVR. I haven't unplugged any speakers from the AVR however I'll check it just to make sure since I did move it (I slid it over about 6" from where it previously was). The speakers aren't new - nothing that I can really think of 'changed' other than one night (a little tipsy) I was looking at the settings and 'thought' I changed them from LARGE to SMALL or SMALL to LARGE and then back to SMALL again but in any event; they're set to SMALL and were when the AVR kicked off (and all the way off). No changes to Adyssey (Flat) etc.

^^
When the AVR shuts down in protection mode ... a slow (every 2 sec) flash means a ventilation issue, while a faster (every 0.5 sec) flash means either speaker wire touching another post, 4Ω speakers run too loud, or amp failure.

I just re-ran Audysey, I am having some weird behaviors.

the front left and right came in at +6-7.something db (each different)
the right front and center said out of phase, running again got the center in phase but not right.
also sub was set to -12db and a distance of 23 feet

it's in line with front LRC at about 11-12 feet.

any ideas?

thanks in advance.

room is 13 by 14...

i am trying to fix the problem of the occasional no subwoofer...

^^
Just confirm the speakers are all wired correctly and you can ignore the phase error. The sub set to -12db means it's set to loud. As noted in your Owner's manual, you need to start out with the sub gain set to 12 o'clock and then reduce it more in order to get the setting closer to 0db but at least < -10db. Also the "distance" reading for the sub is actually a "delay" setting due to filters in the sub so will often have a "distance" greater than it's actual distance. All of your Audyssey related questions are answered in the Audyssey FAQ linked in my sig.

Is the flash the 'green' power light or will it be red/a different color/location? Thanks.

^^
The green power ring light will turn red and flash.

Why does my parameter Spkr Config Check show my FL, FR, & C as LARGE?! And the crossover check shows nothing for Front and Center adn 90Hz for Surround A and 200Hz for Surround Back?!

Thanks JD... I have read it twice.
I am not sure my issue with the sub going off. So I have been trying different things trying to get to the bottom of it. As I go through them different issues keep popping up, making my life more difficult. Can low volume listening turn the sub off? Also it's wires with coax... Which i know shouldn't be an issue...



thanks

It hasn't been the model names that have aged AVRs, but rather the advance of HDMI specification changes.

So if Denon plan on making fewer AVR releases then they obviously have some other plans on how to deal with HDMI evolving. It is HDMI 1.4 (ARC + 3D pass through) that have been of most threat to my 3808's future.

So we've gone from 3808 to 4310, then 4311 and next is 4520 to maintain features? Talk about pushing people up and asking for more cash for the same functionality. Maybe the 3313 (especially if it will do DSD input) will be more attractive as an upgrade for 3808 owners?

Whilst I don't disagree, you need to exercise care when talking HDMI versions and the features. HDMI 1.4 does do ARC and 3D as you rightly point out.

However most HDMI 1.4 AVR's and BD players don't implement anything like all the HDMI 1.4 features or specs. Try this link for a quick look http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/hdm...i_1_4_faq.aspx

This also spells out why manufacturers can sell an AVR as HDMI 1.4 and it doesn't in fact feature all the 1.4 specs

Sounds to me as you want specific features (ARC and 3D) not necesarily HDMI 1.4. Mind you that ethernet feature sounds handy, but that would see most of us needing to upgrade every piece of kit on our rack

And I'm with you on the 3313, although as well as DSD it would also need HDCD.

cheers
blairy

This menu shows the AUTO SETUP settings which you can restore your current settings to should you ever want to. You must check the Manual Setup for the current speaker settings currently being used.

What is likely causing the issue is that the AVR is having to attenuate the sub signal so much it's not enough to activate your sub which is why you need to get the sub trim set closer to 0db after running AUTO SETUP. You also may want to try placing the sub in "ON" mode rather than "AUTO" if it has an "AUTO" mode.

ARC is easily replicated with an optical cable from the TV back to the AVR and the ability to play 3D is easily resolved with a dual HDMI 1.4 AVR (passing video to the TV with HD audio to the AVR). No reason to replace the 3808CI if those are your only new requirements.


Not quite ... in addition to the 4311CI being 9.2 (expandable to 11.2 w/external amp) it also uses the much more advanced version of Audyssey MultEQ XT32 which former XT owners say is a very noticeable increase in audio fidelity as well as it provides the capability of EQing dual subs.

Right. Although 3D can be handled in other ways (such as a cable direct from a BluRay player to the TV (e.g.Oppo BDP-93), it's more cables and more complexity that I'd like to avoid. Given that 3D is a "pass-through" thing, it's annoying that the 3808 can't do this. ARC is of similar benefit - I can get rid of the TOS link cable from the TV back to the AVR.


Yeah, but that upgrade would also mean fewer cables and who here would be opposed to fewer cables so long as there's no sacrifice in quality?

What would be really interesting would be to see something like the 4520 with a native 1Gbps ethernet link and for it to then be able to act as a switch for any HDMI 1.4 device that supports ethernet over HDMI.

What concerns me now is that HDMI's 1.4 spec isn't enough to cover streaming 4k video via the ethernet over HDMI part of the spec.


Yup!

"No reason to replace the 3808CI"

Nope. Have Panasonic 310 for dual hdmi out and have optical running from my TV to the 3808 as well as coax from my cable box to the 3808.

Ah - ok. Then what's showing up in the Manual section IS what the AVR is using for speaker size, crossover etc. Thanks!

True, but you don't need 4K video; totaly off topic but http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-33199_7...vs-are-stupid/

blairy