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The RTROSE (take my sweet time) HT Construction Thread - Page 52

post #1531 of 2097
Sharp seats!! Very nice.

Too funny about the movie lines, I can probably do that with a select few.

How much space from that back wall and between seats? How far from the screen are the front seats?

Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #1532 of 2097
Seats look really nice. I'll have to check out the store since I am in Indy. I don't think I have been there since I bought my pool table 10 years ago. They were under their old name back then.
post #1533 of 2097
Quote:


Too funny about the movie lines, I can probably do that with a select few.

At one of my deck parties I set up a drinking game. From an old board game I have this 6-person buzzer that indicates who buzzed first to within a 10th of a second. I had the outdoor setup going and ran Blazing Saddles. The idea was, if you knew the next line you buzzed in and I would pause the movie. If you could say the line EXACTLY, everyone else had to drink. If you got it wrong, YOU had to drink. It took almost half an hour to get through the first 10 minutes of the movie because EVERYONE knew EVERY line. We just gave up on the game and watched the rest of the movie.
post #1534 of 2097
'bout the movie lines, I had a friend in university that could recite the WHOLE and I mean WHOLE Top Gun word for word. He was very proud of the fact.
post #1535 of 2097
Great looking seats RT! There's something about having HT seating that really makes the space look more, well, dedicated. You put a couch in the same space and it feels a little more like a living room to me. Not to say one is better than the other (I'm hedging in case I decide to put in a couch ), but I really like the look of those dedicated seats!
post #1536 of 2097
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post


Well now I am feverishly in the "planning/construction" mode again as now I will be building a riser for sure. Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions, and advise for that would be greatly appreciated. I know it is basically framing up a horizontal wall, but when looking at sealing it up covering it and carpet and such anything that will make it work better, easier to cover with carpet and such I'm all ears.

RT,
I am certainly far from an expert; but you should study up on how to construct the riser in such a way so that you get some "Bass-trap value". This will likely involve having some of the internal bracing narrow, so that it does not contact the floor (in other words you don't want to make many smaller cavities from this larger volume). If your perimeter is built of 2x10's on edge, than the you would want to "hang" some interior 2x6" joists from your joist hangers. Also before carpeting; you will need some bass-wavelength friendly-holes" either on the 2 x 10 faces, or perhaps on the horizontal deck back by the walls?
post #1537 of 2097
Having only just started thinking about designing a riser, here're my thoughts.
1. Start by knowing your distances to the screen. You'll have to commit. (says me)
2. Through experimentation, figure out how high the riser needs to be. Stacks of lumber, someone to help lift the chair, and that same person to sit in the front row and put their head in the way will all be required.
3. The easy part is managing the steps and lateral dimensions (though these are crucial practical considerations)
4. Do like your cousin said, and figure out some way to get some bass energy into it so that it can be absorbed (holes in surfaces - either along the wall or in the riser wall itself). Ideally, this would happen in a way that focuses the absorption at problematic frequencies (room modes), but really (so I've read) if you loosely fill the cavities with pink fluffy insulation, you broaden the frequency range that gets absorbed, while also diminishing the maximum effectiveness at any frequency. This is the most fool-proof approach, I believe. Though I could be wrong - it has happened before.
post #1538 of 2097
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post

RT,
I am certainly far from an expert; but you should study up on how to construct the riser in such a way so that you get some "Bass-trap value". This will likely involve having some of the internal bracing narrow, so that it does not contact the floor (in other words you don't want to make many smaller cavities from this larger volume). If your perimeter is built of 2x10's on edge, than the you would want to "hang" some interior 2x6" joists from your joist hangers. Also before carpeting; you will need some bass-wavelength friendly-holes" either on the 2 x 10 faces, or perhaps on the horizontal deck back by the walls?

RTROSE - here is the formula for calculating the resonant frequency of a Helmholtz Resonator where f is the resonant frequency (Hz), c is the speed of sound (1120ft/s), p =3.14, S is the area of the port (ft 2 ), L is the length of the port (ft), and V is the cavity volume (ft 3 ).

I would build the riser 11" high using 2x10 on its side and then two layers of 3/4" plywood glued and screwed. HopefulFred is right about building a resonator by spanning the riser depth with 2x8 lumber on joist hangers and only using fiberglass batts for the 2x8 depth to dramatically increase the surface area within the volume and leave a 2 inch continuous gap at the bottom of the riser base which and vented through a port of a specific, calculated size...HOWEVER....

I doubt all of this effort would really be necessary as your room doesn't have any acoustic treatments whatsoever and has a large opening without a door to the right side of the theater. IMHO your time would be better spent trying to make up some 1" or 2" acoustic panels to help tame some of the primary reflections / room modes. At least you have the information and calculator to attempt the resonator if you so-choose.

One other suggestion - I would actually use some 1/2" or 3/4" plywood on the BOTTOM of your riser base so that you are distributing the weight load across the top of the carpet. The next owner could then easily remove the riser base and repurpose the room or have a couch, etc. Just a thought.
post #1539 of 2097
Thread Starter 
Ok,

First things first. The Big Brown Truck showed up today and made a very heavy delivery.

This is the Rythmik FV15HP in Black Oak. LINK So far I'm very impressed, this sub digs very deep. During my quick setup and listening session there were points where I actually "felt" the bass and it seemed like the whole house was rumbling. Very cool. Lots of tweaking and setting up to do to get optimal performance, but so far very good to say the least.

Funny thing is, I never worried about the WAF as this was "my" room and the size and shape of the sub never came up. I did tell her it was big, but never elaborated on it much. Tonight she really got the first hand look at the beast. She called it a "monstrosity", but I think she really meant to say "monster". You know you're on the right track if the wife thinks your sub is too big.










I'll address the riser in the next post.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #1540 of 2097
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post

RT,
I am certainly far from an expert; but you should study up on how to construct the riser in such a way so that you get some "Bass-trap value". This will likely involve having some of the internal bracing narrow, so that it does not contact the floor (in other words you don't want to make many smaller cavities from this larger volume). If your perimeter is built of 2x10's on edge, than the you would want to "hang" some interior 2x6" joists from your joist hangers. Also before carpeting; you will need some bass-wavelength friendly-holes" either on the 2 x 10 faces, or perhaps on the horizontal deck back by the walls?

I had actually planned on doing this just out of cost savings without thinking about any other benefit as it would be cheaper to use smaller lumber for the interior of the riser and not having the insulation touch the carpet. I had planned on basically building a wall only on it's side say out of 2 x 8's with 2 x 4's 16" on center. Is this not the way to do it then? Do you possibly have a link or a diagram I could reference? The bass trap idea is great, too bad it was not my idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

Having only just started thinking about designing a riser, here're my thoughts.
1. Start by knowing your distances to the screen. You'll have to commit. (says me)
2. Through experimentation, figure out how high the riser needs to be. Stacks of lumber, someone to help lift the chair, and that same person to sit in the front row and put their head in the way will all be required.
3. The easy part is managing the steps and lateral dimensions (though these are crucial practical considerations)
4. Do like your cousin said, and figure out some way to get some bass energy into it so that it can be absorbed (holes in surfaces - either along the wall or in the riser wall itself). Ideally, this would happen in a way that focuses the absorption at problematic frequencies (room modes), but really (so I've read) if you loosely fill the cavities with pink fluffy insulation, you broaden the frequency range that gets absorbed, while also diminishing the maximum effectiveness at any frequency. This is the most fool-proof approach, I believe. Though I could be wrong - it has happened before.

Great minds think alike. Here is what I did yesterday when Mrs RTROSE was home to be my Guinea pig. I'm glad I did the trial and error as I would have build the riser way too short. I was going with a 6" riser but I actually need a 10" riser.

My "test" riser.






Mrs. RTROSE was very concerned about my construction technique regarding the temp riser. To prove she would be safe I scaled the chair and riser combo, it creaked and groaned under the immense weight, bowed slightly but held its own. After being convinced she would not perish in a fall from the great height of 9 1/2" she became a willing participant to the riser height experiment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

RTROSE - here is the formula for calculating the resonant frequency of a Helmholtz Resonator where f is the resonant frequency (Hz), c is the speed of sound (1120ft/s), p =3.14, S is the area of the port (ft 2 ), L is the length of the port (ft), and V is the cavity volume (ft 3 ).

I would build the riser 11" high using 2x10 on its side and then two layers of 3/4" plywood glued and screwed. HopefulFred is right about building a resonator by spanning the riser depth with 2x8 lumber on joist hangers and only using fiberglass batts for the 2x8 depth to dramatically increase the surface area within the volume and leave a 2 inch continuous gap at the bottom of the riser base which and vented through a port of a specific, calculated size...HOWEVER....

I doubt all of this effort would really be necessary as your room doesn't have any acoustic treatments whatsoever and has a large opening without a door to the right side of the theater. IMHO your time would be better spent trying to make up some 1" or 2" acoustic panels to help tame some of the primary reflections / room modes. At least you have the information and calculator to attempt the resonator if you so-choose.

One other suggestion - I would actually use some 1/2" or 3/4" plywood on the BOTTOM of your riser base so that you are distributing the weight load across the top of the carpet. The next owner could then easily remove the riser base and repurpose the room or have a couch, etc. Just a thought.

Oh great more math. I hate math. I have to be very careful to how high I go with the riser as my ceiling is only 7' 9" Even if 11" was ideal I don't know if I could go that high. 10" is going to be my max I believe. Plus do to excellent planning on my part the projector will be hanging down in the "walk way" of the riser. I could possibly move the projector back, but don't want to do that unless it is absolutely necessary.

Putting the plywood on the bottom to spread the load is a great idea, I had thought about putting plastic or landscape fabric on the underside to help protect the carpet but doing the plywood would serve two purposes. I will just have to steal that idea for sure.

I had already planned on doing some type of acoustical treatments to the room, but as you point out with a rather large opening on the right side of the theater I'm fighting an uphill battle, and that opening is one of the main reasons why I did not go full bore on trying to do any sound isolation.

Thanks guys for the input. I've got some reading and research to do. Any other ideas or suggestions are welcomed and encouraged.

Oh and other links or info you could point me to would be great as well.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #1541 of 2097
I'm reading this on my phone, so I may have missed it, but since you're dealing with a low ceiling, have you considered a short riser with another mini-riser under each seat in the back row?
post #1542 of 2097
The link I provided actually does most of the math for you, but you will have to do some minor volume calculations. But there are probably bigger fish to fry with tweaking your theater setup.

I would not, under any circumstance, use 2x4s as supporting joists. They are just too weak. If you like the idea of plywood on the bottom of the riser and staying within 10" of height, then I would propose using a base layer of 3/4" plywood, use only 2x8s for the perimeter and joists, then cap with 2 layers of 3/4" plywood. This will get you to 9 3/4" on top of your carpet height. Fill the riser completely with R25 batt insulation. Simple, easy, strong and will give you a great foundation for your seating. The one additional suggestion I would mention is to definitely build and attach a step 1/2 the height of your riser at both entry points to the elevated seating.
post #1543 of 2097
Good idea. I've seen that approach. Go 10" with the riser and then a one or two inch "shim" under the chairs.

Also, I've been in some height challenged theaters. Contrary to logic, the low ceiling gave a really neat "balcony" sort of feel. I would mind a low ceiling so much.
post #1544 of 2097
You're getting there! Looking great!
post #1545 of 2097
Thread Starter 
You all know there was a sub delivered and photos posted right? Just checking. Not like you guys to miss the new toys when they are shown off. Man all you all are slippin'

Ok, back to the riser school.

Here is what I'm thinking now. I have got to get my Guinea pig back into action, to make sure it will work so things may change. Eyeballing things it looks like I can go a couple more inches up without issue. This would be even better for viewing purposes. So here is my thoughts.

Perimeter fame 2 X 10's
interior frame 2 x 8's
bottom covered with 1/2" OSB or ply
top layer covered with two layers of 3/4" OSB or Ply glued and screwed
stuffed completely full of "fluffy stuff"
And as stated a step too
turning the riser into a bass trap? I think it is a moot point at this stage

Sound about right?

Oh and the overall dimensions of the riser would be 6'5" x 11' 5" or pert near that.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #1546 of 2097
WOOF WOOF!

Looks good. I've heard good things about those subs, but I don't know anything about anything store bought. I guess it is best you didn't make a THT if Mrs. RTROSE thought that sub was BIG.

I also like your rickety riser experiments. I will try to get my wife to climb up on some half a$$ed structure too.
post #1547 of 2097
I noticed the sub, but I keep getting distracted by that center channel stand

I'm also really jealous that your room is almost finished, and I can still see through my house from the front yard
post #1548 of 2097
I missed it altogether. Congrats! You can watch everything over again!
post #1549 of 2097
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

Perimeter fame 2 X 10's
interior frame 2 x 8's
bottom covered with 1/2" OSB or ply
top layer covered with two layers of 3/4" OSB or Ply glued and screwed
stuffed completely full of "fluffy stuff"
And as stated a step too
turning the riser into a bass trap? I think it is a moot point at this stage

That sounds fine, but an observation: the 2x8s were going to be useful to allow all the joist cavities to connect (since they wouldn't touch the floor below them), for acoustic purposes. If you're not going to open the sides to allow bass energy in, the only advantages are cost and weight. However, you'll still need joist hangers that you wouldn't need if they were all full depth. Of course, be also careful that everything is screwed with long enough screws and thoroughly so that nothing squeaks or shifts - I personally think long screws are totally adequate for your purposes, but some around here (you've probably noticed) have taken to using Green Glue or roofing felt between riser deck layers.

Oh, and nice sub!
Have you decided on a location and run some sweeps to get an idea of what room modes you make be exciting and how much the walls and stuff rattles and hums?

Fred
post #1550 of 2097
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

WOOF WOOF!

Looks good. I've heard good things about those subs, but I don't know anything about anything store bought. I guess it is best you didn't make a THT if Mrs. RTROSE thought that sub was BIG.

I also like your rickety riser experiments. I will try to get my wife to climb up on some half a$$ed structure too.

Some of us don't have the talent to make everything from scratch so we HAVE to resort to "store bought".

Oh, good luck getting your better half to climb up on some rickety half baked riser build. You better be a very good "sweet talker". Oh and if I remember right you posted a picture of her here on AVS somewhere and if memory still serves me right she looks as smart as she does pretty so it might be a hard way to go to get her to go along with that. Just sayin'.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

I noticed the sub, but I keep getting distracted by that center channel stand

I'm also really jealous that your room is almost finished, and I can still see through my house from the front yard

I know, I know.....I'm not thrilled about it either, but until my "real" center gets here I will just have to make do. If it is any consolation you can't see it when the lights go down.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

I missed it altogether. Congrats! You can watch everything over again!

If you can't see that sub your studying too hard! Oh, and I have been doing just that. Listening to all of my favorite scenes again, and a gain, and again. Especially the "Skadoosh" scene from Kung Fu Panda. Very cool!

Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

That sounds fine, but an observation: the 2x8s were going to be useful to allow all the joist cavities to connect (since they wouldn't touch the floor below them), for acoustic purposes. If you're not going to open the sides to allow bass energy in, the only advantages are cost and weight. However, you'll still need joist hangers that you wouldn't need if they were all full depth. Of course, be also careful that everything is screwed with long enough screws and thoroughly so that nothing squeaks or shifts - I personally think long screws are totally adequate for your purposes, but some around here (you've probably noticed) have taken to using Green Glue or roofing felt between riser deck layers.

Oh, and nice sub!
Have you decided on a location and run some sweeps to get an idea of what room modes you make be exciting and how much the walls and stuff rattles and hums?

Fred


Thanks for your input. I'm clear on the joist hangers and adequate screws. I had planned on using construction adhesive as well as screws to eliminate the possibilities of squeaks and creeks. I just don't know if it will be helpful or not. If I were to open it up to accept sub frequencies what size holes are we talking "in theory"?

The sub is awesome, I have been enjoying it for sure. As for a location yes I believe that I have "settled" on a location. As for all the sweeps and things, I have no idea where to begin or even where to go to get the program to do all of the measurements and things. Something else I will have to start a crash course in.

Thanks again guys.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #1551 of 2097
I read somewhere that a good way to find a nice spot for your sub is to work in reverse. Set your sub at your prime listening position, and then walk around the room listening at each of your potential sub locations. This is a little easier than moving the sub to each possible spot.

Anyway, I don't remember where I read that, and hopefully someone will chime in if it's a bad idea.

In either case, you should check out the master list of movies with bass thread to find some good material to work that sub of yours out. Purely scientific endeavor of course
post #1552 of 2097
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

Thanks for your input. I'm clear on the joist hangers and adequate screws. I had planned on using construction adhesive as well as screws to eliminate the possibilities of squeaks and creeks. I just don't know if it will be helpful or not. If I were to open it up to accept sub frequencies what size holes are we talking "in theory"?

I wouldn't mess around with cutting holes in the riser - you'll almost certainly never hear any difference with the type of room you have. If you decide on using 2x8s for your height, I would use all 2x8s. If you decide you to go with the extra height and use 2x10s, then use all 2x10s. This will allow you to make a much more rigid riser base with plenty of strong support for the seating. I wouldn't mess around with the 2x8 hangers on a 2x10 frame - there's no reason. 2x10s filled with R30 topped with 2 layers of 3/4" plywood glued (liquid nails or PL Premium's PL300) and screwed (exterior grade deck screws and not drywall caliber screws.

How does your sub blend with your mains? Have you had much trouble integrating it smoothly? Have you played around with different positions?

Have a great weekend playing around with your new system!
post #1553 of 2097
Are there any down sides to tall risers other than ceiling height?
post #1554 of 2097
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

I read somewhere that a good way to find a nice spot for your sub is to work in reverse. Set your sub at your prime listening position, and then walk around the room listening at each of your potential sub locations. This is a little easier than moving the sub to each possible spot.

Anyway, I don't remember where I read that, and hopefully someone will chime in if it's a bad idea.

In either case, you should check out the master list of movies with bass thread to find some good material to work that sub of yours out. Purely scientific endeavor of course

I have heard of that approach as well, that is a lot easier to do than do the actual "sub crawl" which is or can be quite a work out! As for the master list of movies with bass thread? Oh yeah, I'm there baby, already discovered THAT little gem of a thread. But, as they say great minds think alike right?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I wouldn't mess around with cutting holes in the riser - you'll almost certainly never hear any difference with the type of room you have. If you decide on using 2x8s for your height, I would use all 2x8s. If you decide you to go with the extra height and use 2x10s, then use all 2x10s. This will allow you to make a much more rigid riser base with plenty of strong support for the seating. I wouldn't mess around with the 2x8 hangers on a 2x10 frame - there's no reason. 2x10s filled with R30 topped with 2 layers of 3/4" plywood glued (liquid nails or PL Premium's PL300) and screwed (exterior grade deck screws and not drywall caliber screws.

How does your sub blend with your mains? Have you had much trouble integrating it smoothly? Have you played around with different positions?

Have a great weekend playing around with your new system!

I have pretty much thrown the idea of the riser as a bass trap right out the window. I am going with the 2 x 10 construction and will use 2 x 10's all around and for the "joists" as well. I'm also clear on the decking screws, pretty much use them for everything BESIDES drywall. How much of an overhang should one leave for an edge to roll the carpet under? I was thinking of 1 1/2" - 2" but have no idea if I'm close or not. May call my carpet place to see what they recommend.

The subs blends extremely well with my speakers. I have not had any issues or trouble with integrating it at all. There are more dials, gizmos, and connections on the back of my sub than there are dials in the space shuttle, well ok, maybe not the space shuttle, but close. I actually refered to the quick setup guide to get me going. Worked like a charm.

I will certainly have a great weekend spending time with my new acquisition. I do have a "new problem" that I have not experienced before. My sconces rattle and I can actually "feel" my house vibrate. I always thought those phrases were wild exaggerations when people were describing the bass they had. I guess not!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rabident View Post

Are there any down sides to tall risers other than ceiling height?

Stay tuned, we're about to find out together!

Seriously I think the major draw back is the clearance issue with the tall ceiling, and as in any construction project the cost goes up when you build up.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #1555 of 2097
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

How much of an overhang should one leave for an edge to roll the carpet under? I was thinking of 1 1/2" - 2" but have no idea if I'm close or not. May call my carpet place to see what they recommend.guess not!

I have seen a flush riser with no overhang look good when carpeted, but if you prefer an overhang then you simply buy stair nosing at one of the big box stores that comes in 8 or10 foot long pieces. Just glue it and screw it with steel screws and per drilled holes. Good luck!

Have you tried tightening the set screws to the sconce shades to cure your rattle problem?
post #1556 of 2097
As stated from above my riser has no overhang and I thing it looks pretty good. I had to go with no overhang due to space limitations. My room is fairly narrow and I also have a closet door to one side and the entrance door to the other to deal with so an overhang/lip would of used of costly space that I just could not afford to spare. And yes in this situation "every inch counts" (insert that's what she said jokes here).
post #1557 of 2097
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I have seen a flush riser with no overhang look good when carpeted, but if you prefer an overhang then you simply buy stair nosing at one of the big box stores that comes in 8 or10 foot long pieces. Just glue it and screw it with steel screws and per drilled holes. Good luck!

Have you tried tightening the set screws to the sconce shades to cure your rattle problem?

The stair nosing is an excellent idea, I'll have to check into that. Having the stair nosing would save me from a lot of routing of the edges.

On the sconces, yeah I have tightened them down and the rattle is gone. I was just a little surprised at the rattle, did not have that with my smaller sub. Still lots of dialing in and tweaking to do yet. Lovin' the new sub, it is a monster. I'm definitely hearing stuff that I did not hear before. Very cool.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Iusteve View Post

As stated from above my riser has no overhang and I thing it looks pretty good. I had to go with no overhang due to space limitations. My room is fairly narrow and I also have a closet door to one side and the entrance door to the other to deal with so an overhang/lip would of used of costly space that I just could not afford to spare. And yes in this situation "every inch counts" (insert that's what she said jokes here).


Hmmmm..........I think I'll leave the "every inch counts" comment alone, but I can't vouch for Hanes. Seems like a soft/slow pitch to him for sure.

The only reason I was considering an overhang was simply thinking of how stars are carpeted and trying to draw similar construction notes. While I have to get a riser built, I don't have to have it done "yesterday" so to speak so I have some time to think some things through.

Ya know though it's funny because when we decided to go the theater chairs route and it was evident I was going to build a riser I started talking about building one and Mrs. RTROSE said "Now before you just charge ahead not knowing what you are doing see what all of your theater buddies have to say". Gotta love that!

Well even if she is not convinced I know what I'm doing, she is convinced YOU GUYS do.

Another point, if I am going 2 x 10 all the way around and as supports is there any real reason now to sheet the bottom in ply or OSB? My thought would be "no". Still open for suggestions.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #1558 of 2097
If you have a lumber liquidators nearby, they sell stair nosings pretty cheap. The last time I bought some, they were quite a bit cheaper than either big blue or big orange.

They also have a lot of other flooring related odds and sods that you can't get from the big box stores.
post #1559 of 2097
As for decking the bottom of the riser I dont think there is any reason that would be necessary. The 2 that I have built did not have decking on the bottom. I assume it's personal preference. As for building it out of 2x10's I dont see any reason you need to also use 2x10s as cross bracing?! To save cost and to remove some weight from this monster I dont see why you couldnt go with 2x8s, 2x6s or even 2x4s hung from joist hangers?! My first riser was 2x6s with 2x4 cross bracing done this way and it was more than sturdy especially if you go with 2 layers of 3/4" decking on top. If you are concerned that it wont be strong enough to hold those chairs plus your weight then just move your cross bracing closer together, maybe go 12" centers or 10" if you are really nervous. I would not go 2x10s everywhere as those babies get pricey and heavy. Just my honest opinion.

And as far as your wife thinking "we know what we are doing" that may be a problem because my wife thinks that "you know what you are doing". I suppose we have them all fooled huh?!?! Life is 40% know how and 60%BS anyway. If you can sell them on your thoughts then you MUST be correct! Right?!
post #1560 of 2097
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

Another point, if I am going 2 x 10 all the way around and as supports is there any real reason now to sheet the bottom in ply or OSB? My thought would be "no". Still open for suggestions.

Having the bottom will distribute the weight so if the riser was removed, there wouldn't be the heavy lines of the joists imprinted into the carpet/padding - just a larger and generally flat area that can easily be fluffed up.

Your call.
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