Official Panasonic DLP PT-56DLX76 & PT-61DLX76 Owner's Thread

Has anyone found what the best configuration for these DLPs are? I am trying to adjust my TV to a HD Dish Network signal.

Also On this TV and when watching HD programming, should the TV be set to 720p or 1080i? I have heard conflicting ideas of more lines vs. progressive scanning.

Thanks,

What are your guys thoughts on these sets? I buddy of mine found them online for well under $1500 for the 61". Seems rediculously cheap for a 1080p set.

I just got my 56" for around that price and love it. It has a million connections, too bad my dish network nor my dvd player have HDMI outputs.

The picture is great, I'm still looking for the specs to adjust it and get the best picture possible.

Sounds great. Care to share the link for the CNet config? Thanks for doing some of the leg work.

Ever get that DVD? what were the settings?

Thanks

D

is this tv actually 1080p, or is it just 1080i? Ive seen some conflicting reports. Anyone? thanks

The TV is 1080p. No doubts about it. The DLP chip is 960x1080 and use special processing to produce 1920x1080p picture.

Note the interesting part is that the dynamic IRIS will be turned off if 1080p signal is received via HDMI. FWIK, dynamic iris improves contrast and black level. So the dilemma is do I send TV 1080i or 1080p?

BTW, I have DVE HD-DVD disc and playback from XBox360 at 1080p over HDMI, I can't seem to get it pass the plunge test. When I have my XBox 360 connected to my other TV with DVI on 720p, I can easily pass plunge test.

For those who interested to use Harmony remote with this TV, chose PT-61DLX76 even if you have a PT-56DLX76 as your model number when configure the remote. Logitech database has all the discrete IR commands for 61", some incomplete IR commands for 56". Both TV should be exactly the same. You have discrete commands power on, power off, input selection command for each video in. Works like a charm on my Harmony 720.

Sorry to go OT.... how do you like your Harmony 720, foxbat? Now that I have the 56DLX76 and its discrete source codes (50LC13 had that silly source stepping), I'm seriously thinking about a universal remote, and I've read some good reviews of the 720. What's the rest of your setup like?

I've purchased and returned four or five different Harmony remotes in the past. With my 50LC13's last of any discrete commands, I just feel they are not that useful because I found myself constantly try to sync the TV with remote. Now, with the new TV and 720 (the last one from my local Costco), it's finally feel much more comfortable to use. So far, it feels pretty good. I prefers 5xx/7xx shape than the oval 6xx shape.

P.S. really like the tilt sensor feature on the 720.

In all the postings regarding the PT-50LC13 bulb failures and the new PT-56DLX replacements I haven't seen mention made of ventilation issues. Was that a contributing factor in any way? Reason I ask is that we will continue to use the same cabinet and aside from having to raise the shelf above the TV a couple of inches the new unit should have plenty of breathing room on the sides without the speaker *wings*.

Anyone else have similar set-up or conerns?

If there were ventilation issues with the 50LC13, they were inside the set. Mine sat on top of a TV stand with open space all around (same one I'm using with my new 56DLX), and I had three bulb failures and a ballast replacement.

The problem with old 50LC13 is lamp circuit design. Not the heat issue. This is quite obvious when switched to this new DLP TV. The old TV almost jump to full brightness right after ignition. The new TV will take a few minutes to gradually increase the brightness. BTW, mine is on a open TV stand as well.

Hi --

Was curious to know what ended up happening with your calibration efforts and if you are happy with the results.

Well, I got this set via the class action in April this year, and on the first evening of my extended weekend, I've got my first failure. I'm curious who else has had one go already?

what set do you have in which your 8m old bulb failed?

This DVE HD dvd is more confusing than Geometry was in a fogged filled day of high school. I don't know if it was worth the 5 hours it took to try to get a grasp on things. Is very hard for the common man to comprehend. Anyways. I have the PANNY TV on this thread. I have the 56 inch version. I got it in the Lamp Failure lawsuit. I like this set a hundred fold over the old LCD.
I use have a xbox 360 and used the hd dvd for the calibration.
Picture -6
brightness + 4
color -5
tint 0
sharp 0
warm color
color man = on
black level light

iris off
gamma full
r level 0
g level 1
b level 2

I just messed with it, so if you have any suggestions. let me know.

robweisenbach@yahoo.com

I used hdmi to connect

Any follow up to this?

I've noticed one issue, not sure if anyone else has seen it. I've got my composites disabled. I have my PS3 through one of the HDMI inputs. When playing 1080p content only, and I hit the "TV/VIDEO" button to bring up the list of inputs to switch over to a component input for my DBS receiver, the input list pops up, and the first COMPOSITE (which was disabled) input automatically gets selected. Then, I have to hit the TV/VIDEO button again to select the component input. Any ideas?

I bought this TV 17 months ago, and it has worked fine until yesterday. Now the lamp won't fire, and I believe it's the ballast. Since it's out of warranty by 5 months, Panasonic won't send a tech, but are willing to consider reimbursing the repair after we've paid for tech inspection. Techs locally cost $100 just to look at it. Any opinions on course of action? Also, anyone have a copy of the service manual?

This is based on my past experience with 50LC13, not this DLP (mine is still going strong after one year).

If you can hear clicking/buzzing like sound when you turn the TV on, your ballast should be fine. You should check the lamp. It's easy to take it out and visually inspect it. Some lamps just shutter. Some lamps look ok but can still be bad. The only real way to test it is to try a new lamp. The lamp this TV uses is relative cheap (<$200 IIRC) compared to 50LC13 ($300).

Ballast repairs are expensive. It costed around $700 for my last ballast repair on 50LC13. Fortunately, that was paid by my credit card insurance. If you bought the TV with a credit card, you should automatically get extra year of warranty for most cards.

Going forward, I will stay away from any TV that uses a lamp, e.g. any projection TV.

I agree with this statement, and am in love with my parents Sammy Plasma. Unfortunately, I can't afford an upgrade

I think its the ballast because the error indicator for a dead lamp is solid red LED, instead of blinking once. But, I will check with my credit card, that is a great option (hopefully). Thanks!

Unless Panny made some changes, that was not the case on my 50LC13. It was always blinking red LED regardless what's broken. Or maybe blinking for a while (like 10+ minutes) before it turned solid. In reality, the TV has no real way to know which is which.