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poor man's HDMI switcher (nothing else works!) - Page 2

post #31 of 51
I would think they would all work. I have a Connect Gear switch and a couple of Monoprice Switches and they all work fine for me. HDMI to HDMI and DVI to HDMI. From 480i to 1080P.
post #32 of 51
Thread Starter 
UPDATE:

After upgrading to the 2.1 FW, I went out to Radio Shack and got a Terk switcher for testing. I noticed that although the picture still drops out after a couple of minutes, it does come back if I skip to the next chapter. With my setup, this would not have been possible on the older firmware. It seems like they tried to fix this in the latest update, but the issue is still there.
post #33 of 51
Just a suggestion... have you tried connecting the A-2 directly to the DVI connection in the back of the Sammy??? If that works well, then quite possibly, the Sammy DLP is having probelms "hand shaking" with HDMI switchers( from your original post it seems that you have tried many different switchers.)

I personally have the Monoprice 1x4 HDMI swicher and it works great. However my set up is connecting 1.2 to 1.2 HDMI and there is no incompatibility issues..thank god
post #34 of 51
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-FANATIC View Post

Just a suggestion... have you tried connecting the A-2 directly to the DVI connection in the back of the Sammy??? If that works well, then quite possibly, the Sammy DLP is having probelms "hand shaking" with HDMI switchers

Yup. Direct connect A2 -> DLP works perfectly. Also, all of the switchers work fine with my Tivo S3 and my DLP, so I can't blame it just on the switchers, or just on the TV. It seems like it is some special interaction between switcher/a2/DLP that messes up the connection after a minute or two.
post #35 of 51
Your Tivo probably implements HDCP differently or doesn't implement it at all.
post #36 of 51
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickforrest View Post

Your Tivo probably implements HDCP differently or doesn't implement it at all.

I'm not convinced this is an HDCP problem, because when I've had HDCP problems in the past iwth other devices, my TV has still shown the picture with a big black rectangle in the middle. In this case, while using the switchers, the entire signal is dropped, as if I had unplugged the cable.
post #37 of 51
HDCP is a huge issue with people getting switches and components to work smoothly. It is the #1 problem that many are having. The implementation of the protocol is not so great and buggy. If we did not have HDCP, we would not have all these handshake issues that people have with certain devices.

I own a monoprice 4x1 and it works perfectly with my Yamaha 661 receiver and Mitsubishi DLP tv. I have the Tosh. A2 and PS3 hooked up to the Yamaha 661 receiver, then the Yamaha 661 is hooked up to the monoprice hdmi switch and finally to the Mit. DLP tv. I have also heard that hdmi/dvi is known to have more handshaking issues then just hdmi/hdmi setup.

- Garrett
post #38 of 51
In your case I would use as Sfhub as suggested the inexpensive Monoprice manual switcher. It is manual and has no chips in it so it works with everything I have ever tried with it. It is easier to use than the $5 alternative you have suggested and it costs only about $18. As an bonus a easy modification can be made making it into a manual splitter.

I am also wondering if something else is causing your problems. Did you swap out cables. Once I found one bad cable that was causing all of my problems. Each cable has 19 connectors in it and one bad connection in the cable or in the internal connector on your equipment can cause havoc.
post #39 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHNnDENVER View Post

You know, I went through this.

Finally purchased a Marantz SR7001 and viola, no more switching issues.


My guess it that the original poster, being somewhat cost-conscious, isn't likely to spring for both the Marantz AND the viola. - Pat
post #40 of 51
LOL

so its a Marantz OR a viola? Got it

LOL
post #41 of 51
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwestley View Post

In your case I would use as Sfhub as suggested the inexpensive Monoprice manual switcher. It is manual and has no chips in it so it works with everything I have ever tried with it. It is easier to use than the $5 alternative you have suggested and it costs only about $18. As an bonus a easy modification can be made making it into a manual splitter.

good suggestion, but that would render my $5 coupler investment obsolete

Quote:
Originally Posted by rwestley View Post

I am also wondering if something else is causing your problems. Did you swap out cables. Once I found one bad cable that was causing all of my problems. Each cable has 19 connectors in it and one bad connection in the cable or in the internal connector on your equipment can cause havoc.

I did try several different cables. I have two different HDMI/DVI cables, and two different HDMI/HDMI cables, so I was able to swap out and individually test each cable. Also, the cables all work fine with the coupler.
post #42 of 51
Thread Starter 
sigh....I already took the Terk switch back to Radio Shack, and now they come out with FW 2.2, which supposedly has more HDMI/DVI fixes.........Maybe I'll wait a few weeks before testing another switch. Any vendors out there wanna send me some free demo equipment? I'd be happy to test any products
post #43 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronwt View Post

Monoprice Switches and they all work fine for me. HDMI to HDMI and DVI to HDMI. From 480i to 1080P.

X2. I have the newest Mono switcher 4 x 1.
post #44 of 51
zachcarter, I have a Samsung HLM-437W with a Toshiba A2 and I'm having exactly the same problem as you. So far I've tried the Monoprice 4x1 and the Sima 3x1 switches. It sounds like it's got something to do with the Samsung DVI port since they're older tvs.
I'm thinking about trying the Radiient although I didn't really want to spend that much money. I may just go with your method.
post #45 of 51
Monoprice will take back your $5 adaptor and that will lower the price of the manual 2x1 switch to $13. The 2x1 manual switch will work since it uses no chips for switching. It is much better than switching cables. Eventually there will be issues doing this.
post #46 of 51
ok, here is my 2 cents...followed by a question that I am not sure is valid in this thread because I do not own an a2.

I purchased a Toshiba Upconverting dvdr from costco, and hooked it up to a Monoprice manual 2x1. My STB works great, and the toshiba was on and off every 2 minutes with snow. (obviously dropping the signal.) I thought it was the DVDR so I took it back and bought a Philips 3505 dvdr. When I brought it home I realized the firmware (or user interface) looked so identical the same company must have made both dvdr's. So I hooked up the new one and...same problem. It seems like it only got worse with a longer cable too. I guess the moral of the story is. Same problems might occur with the 2x1 manual switch.

any suggestions on my problem that I am over looking? what is the best monoprice option? 4x1 3x1 or 5x1??
post #47 of 51
I have an XtremeMac 4x1 HDMI switch. I have the same problem as the OP does but my source is an LG LDA511 upconvert DVD player.

I'll have an HD-A3 soon, and I can report back if it has any issues. I hope (obviously) that it works just fine.

My display is a Mitsubishi WD-52631.
post #48 of 51
HDMI/HDCP problems can be caused by so many things. If the Monoprice 2x1 manual switch does not work it has to be something else since the switch has no chips in it that do the switching. It could be a bad or loose cable, a bad internal connection, a cable not seated properly or you cable lengths could be too long. The only way to be sure is to use trial and error replacing one component at a time in a logical order. I would start first with each cable. I do know how frustrating this is but that is the only way to be sure. I have fixed may hdmi/hdcp problems by doing this. It is sad that HDCP was forced on us.
post #49 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwestley View Post

HDMI/HDCP problems can be caused by so many things. If the Monoprice 2x1 manual switch does not work it has to be something else since the switch has no chips in it that do the switching. It could be a bad or loose cable, a bad internal connection, a cable not seated properly or you cable lengths could be too long. The only way to be sure is to use trial and error replacing one component at a time in a logical order. I would start first with each cable. I do know how frustrating this is but that is the only way to be sure. I have fixed may hdmi/hdcp problems by doing this. It is sad that HDCP was forced on us.

Well, a 6 foot barely works at all, and 3 foot cable from dvdr to switch works for 1 or 2 minutes. i have a 6 footer going from the switch to the display. however the STB works fine. I tried switching inputs and it yielded the same results. It seems like the signal from the dvdr is not strong enough to go through the switch.
post #50 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toeside View Post

I have an XtremeMac 4x1 HDMI switch. I have the same problem as the OP does but my source is an LG LDA511 upconvert DVD player.

I'll have an HD-A3 soon, and I can report back if it has any issues. I hope (obviously) that it works just fine.

My display is a Mitsubishi WD-52631.

I ended up getting the A30, which arrived today.

I can confirm that 1080p/24 works (seemingly flawlessly) through the XtremeMac HDMI switch.
post #51 of 51
I noticed Oppo has a 3x1 switch:
http://www.oppodigital.com/hm31/
Anybody own one?
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