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The OFFICIAL JBL Owners Thread - Page 437

post #13081 of 14059
7/23/12 at 10:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by PilotAce View Post

I wish I could wall mount my LC2, to see what it would sound like. .

I'd say that it's more important to have the center placed so the front baffle is even with or in front of the TV screen. Anything placed forward of the center will generate reflections and filtering that would negate any benefit from wall-mount. So, unless the TV is flat against the wall the center shouldn't be either.

Note that there are ways to hang a center from the same articulating mount that the TV is on, assuming it can hold the weight. Some of the TV mount makers even sell shelves that hang down under the TV. Obviously the LC2 is big and heavy enough to challenge any shelf or mount. But you could even use a separate articulating mount just for the LC2 or just a very deep wall-mount shelf. I'd like to see your LC2 up under the TV screen, both for alignment with the TV and with the L890s.

Also note there are entertainment tables that have TV mounts on the back with enough room under the TV for the center.
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post #13082 of 14059
7/23/12 at 10:53am
Glad this discussion came up. Currently I have my 42" Plasma sitting on an entertainment stand that is 33" high and 24" deep. TV is about 2/3 the way back on the stand. I have my center (NCenterII for now) mounted on top of the TV using custom brackets I made up that attach to the VESA mount which puts the center front and TV front flush together and the center tilts down 12 degrees towards the MLP.

I want to wall mount the TV and keep the entertainment stanf where it is and move my center onto the stand. Now do I still keep the front of TV and front of speaker flush? And if I do that will the top of the stand create "issues" since the center will be sitting back on it?
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post #13083 of 14059
7/23/12 at 11:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang View Post

Glad this discussion came up. Currently I have my 42" Plasma sitting on an entertainment stand that is 33" high and 24" deep. TV is about 2/3 the way back on the stand. I have my center (NCenterII for now) mounted on top of the TV using custom brackets I made up that attach to the VESA mount which puts the center front and TV front flush together and the center tilts down 12 degrees towards the MLP.
I want to wall mount the TV and keep the entertainment stanf where it is and move my center onto the stand. Now do I still keep the front of TV and front of speaker flush? And if I do that will the top of the stand create "issues" since the center will be sitting back on it?
Same issue with reflections, you want the front baffle of the speaker at the front edge of the shelf or table it's on. This should take precedence over other considerations.
As a general consideration, you want the tweeter and mid driver of the center to be within 24" vertically of the horizontal plane between the mid/tweeter of the L-R speakers. (Ideally a horizontal line between the mids of the L-R should pass through the mid of the center.)
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post #13084 of 14059
7/23/12 at 11:33am
Ok, thanks. Also looking to upgrade my NcenterII in the near to the LC1 or LC2... How much better is that LC2 compared to the LC1?
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post #13085 of 14059
7/23/12 at 11:56am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang View Post

Ok, thanks. Also looking to upgrade my NcenterII in the near to the LC1 or LC2... How much better is that LC2 compared to the LC1?
Very different speakers. Either one will be a pleasing upgrade from the N-Center. The LC2 is a real speaker, the LC1 - not so much. Space may be the determining factor though.
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post #13086 of 14059
7/23/12 at 2:03pm
I´m looking to buy the LC2 in black, everyday I go to Amazon if they cut the price a little, they cut the price but in the cherry one, so is this the best price you can have, 299 shipped?, or maybe anyone have an used LC2 who wants to sell? rolleyes.gif
Edited by juanchibiris - 7/23/12 at 4:52pm
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post #13087 of 14059
7/23/12 at 4:01pm
$299 shipped ain't bad. They do turn up on eBay used once in a while.
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post #13088 of 14059
7/23/12 at 6:25pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestang View Post

Glad this discussion came up. Currently I have my 42" Plasma sitting on an entertainment stand that is 33" high and 24" deep. TV is about 2/3 the way back on the stand. I have my center (NCenterII for now) mounted on top of the TV using custom brackets I made up that attach to the VESA mount which puts the center front and TV front flush together and the center tilts down 12 degrees towards the MLP.
I want to wall mount the TV and keep the entertainment stanf where it is and move my center onto the stand. Now do I still keep the front of TV and front of speaker flush? And if I do that will the top of the stand create "issues" since the center will be sitting back on it?

I had the same issue and ended up putting an Auralex Great Gramma under my center to prevent reflections. It works very well.

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post #13089 of 14059
7/24/12 at 9:23am
Would the LC2 be a better choice than the SHO-10? I feel that I have narrowed it down to these two. I wouldn't mind the PT800 but I can only find tem refurbished for a price that seems too high for a refurbed product. I would be using 3 as LCRs.

-Sean
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post #13090 of 14059
7/24/12 at 9:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by 230-SEAN View Post

Would the LC2 be a better choice than the SHO-10? I feel that I have narrowed it down to these two. I wouldn't mind the PT800 but I can only find tem refurbished for a price that seems too high for a refurbed product. I would be using 3 as LCRs.
-Sean
WELL, I do not know what the SHO-10 is. But I can say the LC2 is one great center speaker. The PC600 being even better.
If you are seeing refurb PT800s on Harman's web stores, most likely not a refurb at all. And even if it was, they still carry the same factory warranty of a nib PT800.
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post #13091 of 14059
7/24/12 at 11:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4DHD View Post

WELL, I do not know what the SHO-10 is. But I can say the LC2 is one great center speaker. The PC600 being even better.
If you are seeing refurb PT800s on Harman's web stores, most likely not a refurb at all. And even if it was, they still carry the same factory warranty of a nib PT800.

The SHO-10 is an internet direct sold high efficiency speaker with a horn compression driver. I will be powering the LCRs with an emotiva xpa-3 so I guess the efficiency part isn't a big factor. Would the PT800s really be about $800 per speaker better? I'd be fine paying if it would benefit. I know speakers are subjective to each ear, but what are we looking at to make the price difference? Is it the titanium drivers that are better, maybe more accurate? Or is it a better crossover? I feel if I were going to jump it up to that price point I might as well get the LSR6332s. I have the 2325s in my studio and love the way they sound, so I'd guess the 6332s would be similar?

-Sean
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post #13092 of 14059
7/24/12 at 12:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 230-SEAN View Post

The SHO-10 is an internet direct sold high efficiency speaker with a horn compression driver. I will be powering the LCRs with an emotiva xpa-3 so I guess the efficiency part isn't a big factor. Would the PT800s really be about $800 per speaker better? I'd be fine paying if it would benefit. I know speakers are subjective to each ear, but what are we looking at to make the price difference? Is it the titanium drivers that are better, maybe more accurate? Or is it a better crossover? I feel if I were going to jump it up to that price point I might as well get the LSR6332s. I have the 2325s in my studio and love the way they sound, so I'd guess the 6332s would be similar?
-Sean
I know nothing about ID speaker brands. But there are horns and then there are horns. The former are cheap crap that will lead your ears to bleeding, they are so harsh. Then there is the second type; Everest, K2. Nuff said.

Over the years I've auditioned speakers, I would say you would have to spend twice the msrp of the PT800 of $1700/ea to get better.
I do not know if anyone has ever paid $1700, or even Tweeter's $1500 for the PT800. But I suspect many may have been sold @ $1150/ea when they were on Harman's clearance sale.
One person on this site has compared the PT800 to Salk SongTowers, and he thought the Salks were not as good.
I just wish I had bought a PC600 to go with my PT800s.
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post #13093 of 14059
7/24/12 at 9:01pm
My L8400P is on the fritz again. When I turn it on, the red LED will come on, but it often fades back out a few seconds later. It also makes a static noise when turned on. I sent it a test signal and it kept popping to blue and rumbling for a few seconds, then going back to red. After a half hour of warm-up, it seems to be better, but can still only sustain the test for 20 seconds or so before popping out. Any idea what's wrong and if it's the sort of thing I might be able to fix?
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post #13094 of 14059
7/25/12 at 3:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4DHD View Post

I know nothing about ID speaker brands. But there are horns and then there are horns. The former are cheap crap that will lead your ears to bleeding, they are so harsh. Then there is the second type; Everest, K2. Nuff said.
Over the years I've auditioned speakers, I would say you would have to spend twice the msrp of the PT800 of $1700/ea to get better.
I do not know if anyone has ever paid $1700, or even Tweeter's $1500 for the PT800. But I suspect many may have been sold @ $1150/ea when they were on Harman's clearance sale.
One person on this site has compared the PT800 to Salk SongTowers, and he thought the Salks were not as good.
I just wish I had bought a PC600 to go with my PT800s.

Harman has them on clearance.

http://www.harmanaudio.com/search_browse/product_detail.asp?urlMaterialNumber=NPC600BLK&status=C
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post #13095 of 14059
7/25/12 at 4:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by EZ-Rhino View Post

Harman has them on clearance.
http://www.harmanaudio.com/search_browse/product_detail.asp?urlMaterialNumber=NPC600BLK&status=C
Problem is I do not live in the US anymore. And I don't trust the people working in Guayaquil customs office.
Too many things disappear there, never get delivered.
Although I suppose I could fly to Miami and have one sent to me there and pack it back in a suitcase.
@ $499, that is the same as what I paid/ea for the 5 PT800s.
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post #13096 of 14059
7/25/12 at 6:56am
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4DHD View Post

Problem is I do not live in the US anymore. And I don't trust the people working in Guayaquil customs office.
Too many things disappear there, never get delivered.
Although I suppose I could fly to Miami and have one sent to me there and pack it back in a suitcase.
@ $499, that is the same as what I paid/ea for the 5 PT800s.

Where did you find PT800s at $499 each? That is a sweet deal!

-Sean
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post #13097 of 14059
7/25/12 at 7:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by 230-SEAN View Post

Where did you find PT800s at $499 each? That is a sweet deal!
-Sean
I bought mine in Dec. '06 from an ebay listing, NIB. The guy lost his job and had to sell them. But he had no center or subs.
I really did not need subs as I already had 4 subs.
I think everyone else on this JBL forum bought theirs for even less. I certainly know filecat13 did.
For quite sometime, Harman was selling the PT800, PC600 for $1199 on their web store, if I remember right.
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post #13098 of 14059
7/25/12 at 1:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace_of_Sevens View Post

My L8400P is on the fritz again. When I turn it on, the red LED will come on, but it often fades back out a few seconds later. It also makes a static noise when turned on. I sent it a test signal and it kept popping to blue and rumbling for a few seconds, then going back to red. After a half hour of warm-up, it seems to be better, but can still only sustain the test for 20 seconds or so before popping out. Any idea what's wrong and if it's the sort of thing I might be able to fix?

I had a similar issue with my L8400 and wound up replacing the whole amp with what the Harman rep said was "the last" of their plate amps as a part (Part#: 353590-001). I did find another source online that I tried to hang onto for future such replacements, but question the validity of: http://reconingspeakers.com/products-page/electronic-parts/jbl-l8400p-amp-assembly-353590-001/

My part from Harman was $279.55, their price is $330, so it's not far off. When I had a tech at the local JBL authorized shop pull it he said the whole circuit board was badly heat damaged. I haven't taken it apart yet to find out specifics, though I may or I may try to run it up to Chicago for an exchange if I can finagle them per Filecat13's advice. (If you look a few pages back, my issue and resolution and some discussion on it are in this thread.)
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post #13099 of 14059
7/26/12 at 6:22pm
I don't think that's what's happening to mine. After a while running, it worked normally. Frequently, when I turn it on, the red LED comes on, then fades back out. I'm just leaving it on now as it seems to work that way, but standby mode is not exactly light on the power use.
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post #13100 of 14059
7/27/12 at 1:05pm
Pair of L890 in Dallas for pickup only that could be a great snag for someone in the area...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-of-JBL-L890-Studio-L-Series-Speakers-4-Way-Dual-8-Floor-Standing-Dallas-TX-/120957315885?pt=Speakers_Subwoofers&hash=item1c299e2b2d
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post #13101 of 14059
7/27/12 at 1:30pm
^^^
I think that broken/cracked grill frames are standard issue for the L890 model.
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post #13102 of 14059
7/28/12 at 8:22am
I have a question, does this dent affect the sound of the speaker:



That is a picture of the midrange of an LC2

Thanks
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post #13103 of 14059
7/29/12 at 5:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by juanchibiris View Post

I have a question, does this dent affect the sound of the speaker:

That is a picture of the midrange of an LC2
Thanks

No effect on the sound, but it's also possible to fix it. Try applying a piece of tape and pull it back out. It may take multiple tries.
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post #13104 of 14059
7/30/12 at 1:20pm
I think my original post was in the wrong spot... so here it is again....
im building a home theater in my basement and I was looking at the following:
jbl 3677 $882.00
jbl 3722hf $363.00
jbl 4722n-hf $700 .00
Any other models I should consider?

jbl 8320,40,50 for rears

I dont have a set budget but will need amps and pre pro for a complete setup. Whats the big differences with the above speakers? The 3722 looks good but is really cheap (which worries me about sound quality) I assume the N stands for network.. What does that mean? Not sure what the HF stands for. I planned on buying pro amps to power them. Do I need an external crossover? Ive never used pro amps so not sure what the differences are. I currently own MIrage speakers with an Onkyo amp as well as McIntosh amps with my B&W 802 Diamonds. (im not putting those in the basement). Which of the above speakers are good for HT? Like everyone else I dont just want loud, I want detailed, accurate, critical listening type speakers. If I have to pay more thats ok too. I would rather buy once and be happy than skimp and not be happy.
The Theater will be in a brick basement (insulated with 2" foam) using a 110" screen and projector. Dimensions are 14 feet wide, 18 feet deep with 10 foot ceiling ( 8 feet if I put in a drop ceiling) If I missed anything please let me know.
As far as the amps I assumed I would buy a cheap processor like an Onkyo or Denon for surround sound and put more money into the power amps instead of spending $4000 on a Denon 5308 all-in-one processor.

Thanks for your help...
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post #13105 of 14059
7/30/12 at 3:56pm
^^^
Seems to me like you're barking up the right tree. It's hard not to like the 4722. Either the 8" or 10" surround models would be nice.

If you're bi-amping then you'll need a crossover or a processor with that built in.

Good to note that in a HT application, not a lot of power is needed with these speakers, they are designed to blow you hair back in a large room like a commercial theater. Do some searching in the speaker forum for JBL Pro and those model numbers, there been a couple long threads about just this subject.
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post #13106 of 14059
7/30/12 at 4:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rlhaudio View Post

I think my original post was in the wrong spot... so here it is again....
im building a home theater in my basement and I was looking at the following:
jbl 3677 $882.00
jbl 3722hf $363.00
jbl 4722n-hf $700 .00
Any other models I should consider?
jbl 8320,40,50 for rears
I dont have a set budget but will need amps and pre pro for a complete setup. Whats the big differences with the above speakers? The 3722 looks good but is really cheap (which worries me about sound quality) I assume the N stands for network.. What does that mean? Not sure what the HF stands for. I planned on buying pro amps to power them. Do I need an external crossover? Ive never used pro amps so not sure what the differences are. I currently own MIrage speakers with an Onkyo amp as well as McIntosh amps with my B&W 802 Diamonds. (im not putting those in the basement). Which of the above speakers are good for HT? Like everyone else I dont just want loud, I want detailed, accurate, critical listening type speakers. If I have to pay more thats ok too. I would rather buy once and be happy than skimp and not be happy.
The Theater will be in a brick basement (insulated with 2" foam) using a 110" screen and projector. Dimensions are 14 feet wide, 18 feet deep with 10 foot ceiling ( 8 feet if I put in a drop ceiling) If I missed anything please let me know.
As far as the amps I assumed I would buy a cheap processor like an Onkyo or Denon for surround sound and put more money into the power amps instead of spending $4000 on a Denon 5308 all-in-one processor.
Thanks for your help...

The 'N' is for network...or more simply the crossover. If you buy only the HF (high frequency) section, what will you do below 800hz (or 630)? That's a crucial part of the equation. The 4722-N (LF and HF) is far superior to your other options. Just have a look at the JBL spec sheets.
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post #13107 of 14059
7/30/12 at 5:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrager View Post

The 'N' is for network...or more simply the crossover. If you buy only the HF (high frequency) section, what will you do below 800hz (or 630)? That's a crucial part of the equation. The 4722-N (LF and HF) is far superior to your other options. Just have a look at the JBL spec sheets.

Is the 4722 "Too Much Power" or could I get by with a smaller model? I dont mind spending $1600 for each speaker unless I can get roughly the same "sound" from a sibling. My room isnt huge so I was worried it the 4722 was serious overkill which is why I mentioned the other speakers. (single woofer) If its NOT networked is that a bad thing? Or would my cheap pre pro provide the crossover? as far as amps would crown or qsc or behringer be good choices? Im very new to the pro side of speakers so I greatly appreciate your help.

these are MONO, would I need one of these for each speaker = 5 total? http://www.pssl.com/DBX-223XS-Stereo-2-Way-Mono-3-Way-Crossover-XLR
or am I misunderstanding something?
Edited by rlhaudio - 7/30/12 at 5:21pm
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post #13108 of 14059
7/30/12 at 6:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

No effect on the sound, but it's also possible to fix it. Try applying a piece of tape and pull it back out. It may take multiple tries.

OK thanks, just bought that LC2, it was new with that dent, just $180 shipped in ebay, I will comment when it arrive home
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post #13109 of 14059
7/31/12 at 1:06pm
^^ Nice pickup!
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post #13110 of 14059
7/31/12 at 1:23pm
Ok guys, I'm still in pursuit of adding a dedicated 15" sub to my setup which has the S312 for fronts. I am going the DIY route and have modeled a sub with the Dayton 15" HF driver and a BASH300 amp modified for a 3dB boost centered at 22 Hz. In a 3 cu ft box at 175 watts I'm getting these SPL figures before any room gain/loss:

109 dB @ 40 Hz
107 dB @ 30 Hz
101 dB @ 20 Hz

Now, per rdgrimes "The S312 is very strong above 40Hz, but drops off quickly below that."

So, with these SPL numbers, how well should this blend with the S312 and I should see a major improvement below 40 Hz, correct?
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