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The OFFICIAL JBL Owners Thread - Page 469

post #14041 of 15014
Quote:
Originally Posted by DNA02 View Post

just need some advise to decide which speaker I should get, currently I'm using the JBL Cinema Sound 5.1, saw a JBL NL300 and Energy CF-50 on sale right now, want to upgrade my front speakers, which one is the better choice?

Since this is a JBL thread, guess what we're likely to recommend? Nonetheless, can you be more specific about the Cinema Sound system you're using? 300? 500? 6100? or????
post #14042 of 15014
Quote:
Originally Posted by waltie View Post

Rdgrimes: thank you for your helping. Since my center speaker is the S Center, isn't there any possibility of sonic unmatching? I was thinking of changin the S Center for the LC2, but this speaker is too high to fit in my rack. Also I think the sonic difference is more likely to happen by not keeping the center speaker in the same line. Is that correct?

Hi waltie!)
Keeping the tweeters within 18" of each other vertically, across the front horizontal soundstage is best if you can at all rig it up that way.

I can't comment on your S center vs. the EC35 center, but I did recently upgrade my ES25C to an LC2 and very much like the improvement!
Better power handling, better midrange and bass (low frequency extension), and clearer dialog.
The only thing I was unprepared for was the LC2's lesser efficiency - which is odd because its spec'd at 92db sensitivity, whereas my older ES25C was supposedly a 90db speaker - but the LC2 needed some level boosting from my previous settings and seems to consume a lot more power than its efficiency rating would suggest.
The highs and mid highs of the LC2 are similar to my other ES series speakers which is good.

Good luck!
post #14043 of 15014
Quote:
Originally Posted by filecat13 View Post

Since this is a JBL thread, guess what we're likely to recommend? Nonetheless, can you be more specific about the Cinema Sound system you're using? 300? 500? 6100? or????
I'm using the 500 series right now, also looking at the KEF Q900, is that a good speaker, will it match the center I have or do I need to change the center too if I got the KEF?
post #14044 of 15014
Quote:
Originally Posted by DNA02 View Post

I'm using the 500 series right now, also looking at the KEF Q900, is that a good speaker, will it match the center I have or do I need to change the center too if I got the KEF?

From my experience auditioning KEF....they sound nothing like JBL. From the KEFs I've heard, I would not want them for free.
On a rare occasion mixing brands of speakers in one system might work. But 99% of the time it sounds like crap.
post #14045 of 15014
i put up my JBL voice and JBL Balcony up on sale on amazon if anyone is interested. those Balcony Venue speakers are great for Zone 2 or front height if you're looking for some additional soundstage. smile.gif

http://www.amazon.com/JBL-Series-Center-Channel-Speaker/dp/B000EZ764E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368651473&sr=8-1&keywords=jbl+voice

http://www.amazon.com/JBL-Series-Balcony-4-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000FBPH9S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368651490&sr=8-1&keywords=jbl+balcony

both ship free with amazon free super saver.
post #14046 of 15014
Just looking for some advice on my setup, JBL E30 Fronts, EC25 Center, N24 surrounds and E150P sub.

I've been doing alot fo reading on on the speaker setting SMALL vs LARGE and can't seem to find a right answer. For the past 7 yrs ive always used the SMALL setting with Sub set to YES. My Amp is a Pioneer 1021 and when i run MCACC it sets my E30's to LARGE with a xover of 80hz. I'm reading on different forums that the E30's could in fact handle the LARGE setting with the subwoofer set to PLUS.

The reason i'm looking into this after 7yrs is 1. the itch to tinker 2. I dont feel i'm getting enough bass. The other day i turned volume knob on the sub from half to to in between full and half and i liked the extra rumble however thats going against the MCACC calibration.

Any body have a similar setup that can provide some guidence? My room is about 12 x 12 with a wall only on the right side. I sit about 9.5ft away from the LCR and 10ft away from the sub. the sub is connected using LFE.

Thanks for any advice.
post #14047 of 15014
I have the studio 1 190s up front set to large and 2 subs, one under each side table on the side of the couch. Reversed the phase on the subs which cleared up the hollow bass issue. The 190s are set to large and the subs are set to plus with a 50hz crossover point. I am still playing with the crossover point as 80 seems to have a smoother transition to the low end. So to answer your question I am running it as you such. But I would use that driving force of tinkering to find what works best in your room smile.gif
post #14048 of 15014
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsoares28 View Post

Just looking for some advice on my setup, JBL E30 Fronts, EC25 Center, N24 surrounds and E150P sub.

I've been doing alot fo reading on on the speaker setting SMALL vs LARGE and can't seem to find a right answer. For the past 7 yrs ive always used the SMALL setting with Sub set to YES. My Amp is a Pioneer 1021 and when i run MCACC it sets my E30's to LARGE with a xover of 80hz. I'm reading on different forums that the E30's could in fact handle the LARGE setting with the subwoofer set to PLUS.

The reason i'm looking into this after 7yrs is 1. the itch to tinker 2. I dont feel i'm getting enough bass. The other day i turned volume knob on the sub from half to to in between full and half and i liked the extra rumble however thats going against the MCACC calibration.

Any body have a similar setup that can provide some guidence? My room is about 12 x 12 with a wall only on the right side. I sit about 9.5ft away from the LCR and 10ft away from the sub. the sub is connected using LFE.

Thanks for any advice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobdude View Post

I have the studio 1 190s up front set to large and 2 subs, one under each side table on the side of the couch. Reversed the phase on the subs which cleared up the hollow bass issue. The 190s are set to large and the subs are set to plus with a 50hz crossover point. I am still playing with the crossover point as 80 seems to have a smoother transition to the low end. So to answer your question I am running it as you such. But I would use that driving force of tinkering to find what works best in your room smile.gif

The difference in the E30 and 190 is bookshelf and full range tower. They need different settings.
As for MCACC, like any auto setup program, they don't always work as they should.
When you get a setting of "large" for limited range speakers, you know it is wrong.

Set the E30 to "small" and the XO to 80.
post #14049 of 15014
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsoares28 View Post

Just looking for some advice on my setup, JBL E30 Fronts, EC25 Center, N24 surrounds and E150P sub.

I've been doing alot fo reading on on the speaker setting SMALL vs LARGE and can't seem to find a right answer. For the past 7 yrs ive always used the SMALL setting with Sub set to YES. My Amp is a Pioneer 1021 and when i run MCACC it sets my E30's to LARGE with a xover of 80hz. I'm reading on different forums that the E30's could in fact handle the LARGE setting with the subwoofer set to PLUS.

The reason i'm looking into this after 7yrs is 1. the itch to tinker 2. I dont feel i'm getting enough bass. The other day i turned volume knob on the sub from half to to in between full and half and i liked the extra rumble however thats going against the MCACC calibration.

Any body have a similar setup that can provide some guidence? My room is about 12 x 12 with a wall only on the right side. I sit about 9.5ft away from the LCR and 10ft away from the sub. the sub is connected using LFE.

Thanks for any advice.

I would recommend that you keep your E30s set to "small", and with a 80Hz crossover to your sub. (Odd that your AVR would designate them as "large" - and then set a crossover!).
A good rule of thumb is to set your speaker's crossover point to the sub woofer at roughly 20Hz to 30Hz above its rated low output (to -3db or so), which then allows for a good roll off, doesn't over-tax your speaker's capability, and makes the most of the sub.

Those speakers are good down to about 55Hz (at -3db), so I would never designate tham as "Large", even though it might sound like you could...
post #14050 of 15014
Thanks for the excellent responses. I will set the speakers to small with an 80hz crossover and rerun mcacc.

Any idea what subs rated low output is? Amazon states frequency response curve is 27hz low pass xo setting. Is 27hz the rated low output?

Thanks
post #14051 of 15014
What about a very similar setup? E50s instead of E30s, and an EC35 instead of an EC25. Same sub (E150).

I'm driving them with an old HK AVR435 and can't remember if the AutoEQ set the E50s to small or large. This has sparked my mind to go check!

They are still bookshelves but have a little more oompa than the E30s.

In the meantime I've also been mulling over an upgrade to L890s in the front, an LC2 at center and L810s in rear. But for now I want to make sure I'm getting the most out of what I've got.
post #14052 of 15014
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedLefty View Post


In the meantime I've also been mulling over an upgrade to L890s in the front, an LC2 at center and L810s in rear. But for now I want to make sure I'm getting the most out of what I've got.

Forget the L810 and keep the E30s or E50s for surrounds.
post #14053 of 15014
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsoares28 View Post

Thanks for the excellent responses. I will set the speakers to small with an 80hz crossover and rerun mcacc.

Any idea what subs rated low output is? Amazon states frequency response curve is 27hz low pass xo setting. Is 27hz the rated low output?

Thanks

That 10" sub is rated for audible output down to 27Hz, but JBL doesn't indicate on their site what its roll off is.
Pretty good response for a 10"...

After you re-run your room correction, go into your AVR's audio/speaker set up menu and make sure the E30s are set to "Small", and with a 80Hz crossover - regardless of what the room correction software sets them at.

If they're anything like my ES30s, they're terrific performers!
(I call them "The little Goliths"!) smile.gif
post #14054 of 15014
Thanks for the response, I will try that now and report back. What is the general consensus on where the volume knob on the actual sub should be set at?
post #14055 of 15014
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsoares28 View Post

Thanks for the response, I will try that now and report back. What is the general consensus on where the volume knob on the actual sub should be set at?

50% max. But better to be less. This leaves plenty of head room.
post #14056 of 15014
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsoares28 View Post

Thanks for the excellent responses. I will set the speakers to small with an 80hz crossover and rerun mcacc.

Any idea what subs rated low output is? Amazon states frequency response curve is 27hz low pass xo setting. Is 27hz the rated low output?

Thanks

I believe the manual recommends setting the level to the '11:00 O'clock position', and use the LFE input, and set the crossover to the maximum.
Then the room correction software should do the rest.

(Say?, doesanyone know if the AVS Forum has a spell check function anywhere that I'm missing? I don't see it but it would be nice to be able to self-correct messages before submitting...).
post #14057 of 15014
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Norseman View Post


(Say?, doesanyone know if the AVS Forum has a spell check function anywhere that I'm missing? I don't see it but it would be nice to be able to self-correct messages before submitting...).

that's usually a browser addon?
post #14058 of 15014
Thanks for the responses regarding the sub volume knob. That's how I will set it up
post #14059 of 15014
post #14060 of 15014
Just got an EC35 in the mail from ebay. The right mid was falling out of the cabinet, only held in with one screw. Found two screws in the box. Seller listed it as mint condition. Some assembly required? Don''t know if I should keep it and have the seller cover the price of a replacement mid or just send the entire thing back. Otherwise the speaker is in good condition.
post #14061 of 15014
I assume the mid is damaged? So you can not just put it back with some more screws?
post #14062 of 15014
Quote:
Originally Posted by StiCy View Post

Just got an EC35 in the mail from ebay. The right mid was falling out of the cabinet, only held in with one screw. Found two screws in the box. Seller listed it as mint condition. Some assembly required? Don''t know if I should keep it and have the seller cover the price of a replacement mid or just send the entire thing back. Otherwise the speaker is in good condition.

Common in JBL speakers is that the mid-range will have an isolation "can" behind it. Make sure that is still firmly attached to the rear of the baffle. If so the only question is whether the screw holes for the driver are intact, and the driver itself is too. It's unlikely that the driver could just fall out without some other type damage being involved. If there's no damage to the packing material, you have to wonder if it was like that when shipped.
post #14063 of 15014
Quote:
Originally Posted by StiCy View Post

Just got an EC35 in the mail from ebay. The right mid was falling out of the cabinet, only held in with one screw. Found two screws in the box. Seller listed it as mint condition. Some assembly required? Don''t know if I should keep it and have the seller cover the price of a replacement mid or just send the entire thing back. Otherwise the speaker is in good condition.

You say 'right' so I assume you mean mid-bass as opposed to midrange. Is that driver actually damaged? It is possible those two other screws worked loose during transit.
After my last move, I was listening to the audio system and noticed one speaker did not sound right. Then I noticed the tweeter was not behind its WG/protective piece.
So I unscrewed the WG and saw that the tweeter's plastic housing had been broken, and glued back together(I assume by JBL, as they were new when I bought them) and had come apart during the move. The tweeter was hanging down inside the box by the wire. I just used super glue to re-attach and all was good again. The Ti dome had gotten pushed in slightly, but putting the vacuum hose to it popped it back out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gferrell View Post

I assume the mid is damaged? So you can not just put it back with some more screws?
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

Common in JBL speakers is that the mid-range will have an isolation "can" behind it. Make sure that is still firmly attached to the rear of the baffle. If so the only question is whether the screw holes for the driver are intact, and the driver itself is too. It's unlikely that the driver could just fall out without some other type damage being involved. If there's no damage to the packing material, you have to wonder if it was like that when shipped.

Yeah, those holes might need filling with wood putty and then re-drilled again so they hold properly.
post #14064 of 15014
Hi gents,

I'm thinking seriously about putting a couple of S36AW's in my patio. Harman's ebay website doesn't have anything other than a pair of outdoor Control Ones. Does anyone have any leads as to where to find some used or remanufactured S36's? Wait for Harman? I checked CL and wandered a little around the net already. Are Control Ones worthy with that little 4" driver?

Your help would be most appreciated.
post #14065 of 15014
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudslide View Post

Hi gents,

I'm thinking seriously about putting a couple of S36AW's in my patio. Harman's ebay website doesn't have anything other than a pair of outdoor Control Ones. Does anyone have any leads as to where to find some used or remanufactured S36's? Wait for Harman? I checked CL and wandered a little around the net already. Are Control Ones worthy with that little 4" driver?

Your help would be most appreciated.

The JBL Professional line includes a few weather-resistant models, up to and including 15" 2-way blasters that'll wake them up several blocks away. But for your purposes I'd think the S36 might be a good choice. They turn up on eBay once in a while.
post #14066 of 15014
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

The JBL Professional line includes a few weather-resistant models, up to and including 15" 2-way blasters that'll wake them up several blocks away. But for your purposes I'd think the S36 might be a good choice. They turn up on eBay once in a while.

Thanks, Bob. Yeah, those Pro speakers would be great for a neighborhood party! smile.gif

There actually are a couple of pairs of S36AW's on the bay, but they're wanting too much for them. I guess I'll just take a wait and watch approach. I don't much care for the other manufacturers offerings...Polk, Pyle, Klipsch, etc. and I don't want to buy new. These things will have to live out in an Illustrated Man -type rain here in the northwest (albeit under a deck)...so I want good AND reliable.
post #14067 of 15014
I doubt that any of them should be considered "water-proof", they still need some measure of protection or shelter from the elements. There was also one or 2 N-series models with the "AW" designation.
post #14068 of 15014
Hi All,

Just added an HTPS400 to my PS series HT, to complete the set. I'm going from an L8400

The HTPS has the Normal & THX options and recommends "Normal" for DTS/DD

However the THX setting which bypasses the xover and uses the preamp xover/gain seems a better match to my former LFE setting (except the gain which is still controlled in part on the L8400)

I did an "AIX records cal disc" run using DD-TruHD 5.1 and LCPM 5.1 outputs:

--got level matched 70dB w/ THX setting (disables sub xover/gain), and dropping my preamp (sub-LFE, FL/FR-full) gain down to -4 (of 10)
--got level matched 70dB w/ Normal setting (enables sub xover-150Hz/gain-2'oclock) and raise preamp (sub-LFE, FL/FR-full) gain up to +6 (of 10)

I'm assuming ?? these are equal options except the Normal setting is capping the LFE pre-out to the sub at 150Hz?? OR should I run the THX setting, assuming the LFE output in the various formats may output >150Hz?
post #14069 of 15014
^^^
Congrats on getting really fine VLF sub.
I run mine in normal mode with the XO set to max. Gain setting is based on the levels set by my AVR's processing, I adjust it to get me "0" adjustment in the processor. You can use the THX setting, but you won't have the option of using the gain control to add boost, and most processors offer only 10db or so anyway. Its pretty unlikely you will encounter any sources with >150Hz content in the LFE channel.

I also made the change from L8400 to HTPS400, and was extremely pleased with the result, especially on music with VLF content. I also use the PS1400s for subs. For stereo music I sometimes like to put the stacks on a 40Hz XO and let the HTPS400 handle the VLF. But even below 40Hz the PS1400 blends very nicely with the HTPS400. Find yourself some sine wave tones at 20/40/60/80 Hz if you want to play around. Just be very careful with levels on 20Hz tones, you don't want to be peeling cones off the walls. A 20Hz tone is not heard so much as felt, anything you hear will be harmonics.
post #14070 of 15014
very clear ^^^thank you!
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