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The OFFICIAL JBL Owners Thread - Page 487

post #14581 of 15022
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

I ordered overnight. I dithered today and ended up with a Market Place seller but Prime. I really prefer Amazon to be the seller. I can't really see a warranty claim. But I like to use Amazon directly because of the way they handle returns.

Mine is coming through AcousticSoundDesign via Amazon - and also, that took away the tax.
post #14582 of 15022
Quote:
Originally Posted by zieglj01 View Post

Mine is coming through AcousticSoundDesign via Amazon - and also, that took away the tax.

I never quite got used to paying sales tax on Amazon purchases here in Texas. Odd politics in that one. Yeah that was the upside of a Market Place seller.
post #14583 of 15022
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdavis13 View Post

Shoukd bi-wire them if a receiver I buy has 80 watts per channel. I could hook the front left on reciever to the top posts on speaker and left surroud to the bottom posts on speaker to give it 160 total watts to the speaker? It said in description that the speaker can be bi-wired.
You could, but from a practical standpoint it really won't make any noticeable difference or increase the power available to your speakers.
post #14584 of 15022
JBL Studio 530 - 15 sold in less than 36 hrs. - now back to regular price
http://www.amazon.com/JBL-Studio-530-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B00622STI0
post #14585 of 15022
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Norseman View Post

You could, but from a practical standpoint it really won't make any noticeable difference or increase the power available to your speakers.

Bi-wire and bi-amp being loosely interchanged here. The E90 line does have "bi" speaker posts, but likely gains nothing from attempts to bi-amp. That said, the AVR in question might offer increased power per channel by using that method to connect. It depends on the AVR, but if its only driving the 2 channels it might be worth a try. Its also true that most AVRs have a single power supply, meaning that just connecting 2 channels might give the same WPC potential as going with the bi-amp mode. Needless to say the AVR makers aren't usually offering any detailed ratings for the various connection modes.

In any case, one does want to be sure to remove the shorting bars from the speaker if going with bi-amp mode.
post #14586 of 15022
^ "bi-wiring" is a term and practice that should have never been considered for any situation ever... it's useless and pointless.
the dual posts on the speakers are for bi-amping, and as rdgrimes says has to be done in a way that actually makes a difference or else it too may end up being just as fruitless as bi-wiring is.
be sure to also use high quality shielded speaker wires with a minimum gauge of 14 for short runs, and 12 gauge for longer runs.
(personally I would use 12 gauge no matter what, and for my own setup that requires 50 ft runs, I use 10 gauge)
also use some good quality amps with independent power supplies per channel.
(probably not even worth trying @ 80w per/ch... 150-200 or more watts per/ch would be way better, and MIGHT make a difference.
post #14587 of 15022
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smarty-pants View Post

^ "bi-wiring" is a term and practice that should have never been considered for any situation ever... it's useless and pointless.
the dual posts on the speakers are for bi-amping, and as rdgrimes says has to be done in a way that actually makes a difference or else it too may end up being just as fruitless as bi-wiring is.
be sure to also use high quality shielded speaker wires with a minimum gauge of 14 for short runs, and 12 gauge for longer runs.
(personally I would use 12 gauge no matter what, and for my own setup that requires 50 ft runs, I use 10 gauge)
also use some good quality amps with independent power supplies per channel.
(probably not even worth trying @ 80w per/ch... 150-200 or more watts per/ch would be way better, and MIGHT make a difference.
+1, so-called 'passive bi-amping' doesn't do anything either. Active bi-amping does, but that's a totally different animal. Bi-wiring/bi-amping terminals are a marketing tool, pure and simple, to satisfy the demands of those who think that bi-wiring and passive bi-amping are worthwhile.
But you should not use shielded wire for speakers, it has higher capacitance and that kills high frequency response. As for gauge requirements, this tool will tell you want you need. You can use a larger gauge, but it won't sound different.
http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/speakerwireselectorassistant.swf
post #14588 of 15022
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smarty-pants View Post

^ "bi-wiring" is a term and practice that should have never been considered for any situation ever... it's useless and pointless.
the dual posts on the speakers are for bi-amping, and as rdgrimes says has to be done in a way that actually makes a difference or else it too may end up being just as fruitless as bi-wiring is.
e.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

+1, so-called 'passive bi-amping' doesn't do anything either. Active bi-amping does, but that's a totally different animal. Bi-wiring/bi-amping terminals are a marketing tool, pure and simple, to satisfy the demands of those who think that bi-wiring and passive bi-amping are worthwhile.

I don't mind appearing to contradict my betters, so Passive bi-amping can make a difference when amplifiers of different characteristics are utilized. A typical example would be using a solid state amp for the LF and a tube amp for the HF. There will be a difference, both clearly audible and measurable.

I am not saying it will be better or worse, but it will be clearly different, and some folks are passionate about this type of passive bi-amping and like it a lot. It takes some work to do it "right" whatever that may mean, but I would not classify it as fruitless or characterize it as not doing anything. I don't do it, so I'm not advocating for it or against it. It's just that if we're telling the bi-amp Gospel here, let's read all the verses.

Having written that, the idea of passively bi-amping from a receiver is of little merit other than to have two wires going to your speaker, which can have a visual impact on people, including your friends. "Wow! Look at that: two wires!" eek.gif

I'm not above spending a few bucks on some (used) high end, thick cable that's conductively no better than 14 Ga. lamp cord but looks bitchin' when connected to speakers that everyone will see. Everyone automatically thinks, "Man, those must be really good speakers. Look at the size of those cables!" People who expect good sound usually hear it.

Everything I bi-, tri- or quad-amp is run through active crossovers before amplification, so it is (by my taste) bitchin' already, but spending $20 or so on ebay to get some fatty cables is icing on the cake. OTOH, on a four-way, quad-amp setup, I'm actually running four pairs of 16 Ga. (yes, 16) plain wire per loudspeaker to the individually EQed drivers, since no one can see any of it. It works just as well as the 10 Ga. stuff with super fat insulation on the actively bi-amped speakers on the main floor that everyone can see.

If I had extra cable lying about, like the 200 ft. spool of leftover 16 Ga. I've got, and a spare amp, I would passively bi-amp or even bi-wire something just because I could. It won't hurt any more than it likely won't help. Then I'd pray that Smarty-pants, Bill and rd would stop over so I could see and hear their reactions. biggrin.gif

But I wouldn't go out and buy wire just to do it, since I know that it's going to be money spent for naught, plus they're probably not coming over anyway. frown.gif

Also, don't forget that adding more wires statistically increases the chances of mucking something up, miswiring, shorting something out, etc. So be careful if you do it, and remember that this is about enjoyment. If you want to try it and it gives you satisfaction in the attempt, then who can say it was wrong? Just do not expect a miracle, not even a minor one.
post #14589 of 15022
Quote:
Originally Posted by filecat13 View Post


I don't mind appearing to contradict my betters, so Passive bi-amping can make a difference when amplifiers of different characteristics are utilized. A typical example would be using a solid state amp for the LF and a tube amp for the HF. There will be a difference, both clearly audible and measurable.

I am not saying it will be better or worse, but it will be clearly different, and some folks are passionate about this type of passive bi-amping and like it a lot. It takes some work to do it "right" whatever that may mean, but I would not classify it as fruitless or characterize it as not doing anything. I don't do it, so I'm not advocating for it or against it. It's just that if we're telling the bi-amp Gospel here, let's read all the verses.

Having written that, the idea of passively bi-amping from a receiver is of little merit other than to have two wires going to your speaker, which can have a visual impact on people, including your friends. "Wow! Look at that: two wires!" eek.gif

I'm not above spending a few bucks on some (used) high end, thick cable that's conductively no better than 14 Ga. lamp cord but looks bitchin' when connected to speakers that everyone will see. Everyone automatically thinks, "Man, those must be really good speakers. Look at the size of those cables!" People who expect good sound usually hear it.

Everything I bi-, tri- or quad-amp is run through active crossovers before amplification, so it is (by my taste) bitchin' already, but spending $20 or so on ebay to get some fatty cables is icing on the cake. OTOH, on a four-way, quad-amp setup, I'm actually running four pairs of 16 Ga. (yes, 16) plain wire per loudspeaker to the individually EQed drivers, since no one can see any of it. It works just as well as the 10 Ga. stuff with super fat insulation on the actively bi-amped speakers on the main floor that everyone can see.

If I had extra cable lying about, like the 200 ft. spool of leftover 16 Ga. I've got, and a spare amp, I would passively bi-amp or even bi-wire something just because I could. It won't hurt any more than it likely won't help. Then I'd pray that Smarty-pants, Bill and rd would stop over so I could see and hear their reactions. biggrin.gif

But I wouldn't go out and buy wire just to do it, since I know that it's going to be money spent for naught, plus they're probably not coming over anyway. frown.gif

Also, don't forget that adding more wires statistically increases the chances of mucking something up, miswiring, shorting something out, etc. So be careful if you do it, and remember that this is about enjoyment. If you want to try it and it gives you satisfaction in the attempt, then who can say it was wrong? Just do not expect a miracle, not even a minor one.

passive bi-amping can make it sound "different" as you say. I suppose to some people that may equate to sounding better.
what I consider sounding "better" is when you hear more content, and for lack of a better term, robustness in the audio.
like when you hear the difference between a mediocre recording, and then one of higher bitrate... or the difference between lossy and lossless audio would probably be an even better example.
the differences are REAL improvements, not just sounding "different".
I'm not arguing your point. it's well made, but just saying...

I laugh at your examples of "visual impact" biggrin.gif. it certainly is very true. many things are sometimes enjoyed more via placebo.

your statement about wire gauge is technically correct.
the reason I had stated to use the gauge I said, was to help cover things that can make the wires perform poorly.
first, it is important to have good insulation so that interference from other things won't bleed into the wires.
also, sometimes wires can become broken inside of the insulated jacket, thus having even less wire than what is meant to be used.
that may be more of a stretch though since most wire is twisted these days...
an individual strand or two or three can also easily break off at the end of the wire in a situation where you may use the bare wire directly to you speakers and amps,
at the point where you twist the strands together before inserting them into the speaker terminals.
quite simply, you need high quality conductive and well insulated wire. if that can be had in a 16 gauge wire, then that is great,
but the chances of the wire not performing correctly is greater than if you were to use thicker wire. ESPECIALLY if it is a permanent or semi-permanent installation.
going with known high-quality speaker wire of 14 or 12 gauge is a good example of better safe than sorry I guess. smile.gif
post #14590 of 15022
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smarty-pants View Post



I laugh at your examples of "visual impact" biggrin.gif. it certainly is very true. many things are sometimes enjoyed more via placebo.

My car always drives better and has more power after I wash it.
post #14591 of 15022
Quote:
Originally Posted by zieglj01 View Post

JBL Studio 530 - 15 sold in less than 36 hrs. - now back to regular price
http://www.amazon.com/JBL-Studio-530-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B00622STI0

I have the Studio 530 bookshelf speakers hooked-up > heads up, these are the real thing.

Welcome back JBL
post #14592 of 15022
Quote:
Originally Posted by zieglj01 View Post

I have the Studio 530 bookshelf speakers hooked-up > heads up, these are the real thing.

Welcome back JBL

If I thought I could get away with it I'd grab a pair, but I just sold a ton of JBLs in the name of love, so...



Besides, I've got a pair of these NIB hiding in the garage that I have to figure out what my move is.

http://www.jblpro.com/catalog/general/Product.aspx?PId=469&MId=5

Bill, Smarty-pants, and rdgrimes: Now that's active bi-amping in a box!

post #14593 of 15022
Thanks guys.
post #14594 of 15022
I'm a new bee at this stuff. I was wanting a bigger sound system that I could use as home theater and for music and possibly custom as I get more money. I was tired of the Sony HiFi systems. Haha
post #14595 of 15022
Quote:
Originally Posted by filecat13 View Post

If I thought I could get away with it I'd grab a pair, but I just sold a ton of JBLs in the name of love, so...

Besides, I've got a pair of these NIB hiding in the garage that I have to figure out what my move is.

Well then - hope it works out for you - it looks nice
post #14596 of 15022
Can I use the PRX series for home theater?
post #14597 of 15022
I have a damaged JBL Studio 590 that I received through an August Amazon purchase and shipped from World Wide Audio, The speaker was replaced and I was able to keep it. The damage is a broken front right leg from the bottom speaker cabinet. See attached. I am located north of Raleigh in the Wake Forest area and would sell at a reasonable cost. There is no affect to the sound and the broken part could be repaired. If interested please send me a private message with your offer.

Thanks,

Ray

jbl092713003.JPG 1275k .JPG file
post #14598 of 15022
I have a system with two L 820, lc2, L890 and a Denon 3312ci receiver saying if completed with a SVS PB12-NSD that may remain?
post #14599 of 15022
Quote:
Originally Posted by zieglj01 View Post

I have the Studio 530 bookshelf speakers hooked-up > heads up, these are the real thing.
Welcome back JBL

Congrats on your Studio 530 speakers. I know the soundstage is very wide but how's the depth? I hope it have a good depth to create that 3D soundfield. Also, do you feel the vocal is more relax meaning less forward and shouting than other horn or compression driver?
post #14600 of 15022
Quote:
Originally Posted by magi44ken View Post

Congrats on your Studio 530 speakers. I know the soundstage is very wide but how's the depth? I hope it have a good depth to create that 3D soundfield. Also, do you feel the vocal is more relax meaning less forward and shouting than other horn or compression driver?

Them Studio 530 speakers are good - and I continue to enjoy them >>

The vocals are nice - all of the frequencies are nice - the bass is rich and tight and deep, and if one did not know -
they would not believe that it is only a 5-1/4 inch woofer. Also, if properly set-up, the soundstage will create a 3D
experience - they do need to be toed in - and they do need a nice room to breathe in. >> This is not your average
so-called small room speaker. They have nice detail, definition and depth - and have a lot of air - they sound better
than a lot of dome tweeters. The sound is smooth, balanced, transparent and clean - They do not come at you to slap
you in the face - they draw you into the stage. They sound better than their regular over 600 dollar list price, with a
street price of $599. Still a solid deal at the street price, I will continue to recommend them at that price > if found
below that price, then you really have one of the better deals around.
Edited by zieglj01 - 1/5/14 at 9:56am
post #14601 of 15022
Thanks for the impression, zieglj01. That sounds very promising. I just check out some youtube video. It does sound very real with the vocal and imaging is very precise. The vocal is up front and but in your face type. I'm really tempting to get the 580 for my brother. His room is about 12x15.
post #14602 of 15022
I would add to what zieglj01 said.

Piano and Violin sound so natural and real. I have the NHT Classic Three on audition and this speaker while not perfect gets so many things right at its price point that keeping the beautifully crafted and excellent NHT Classic Three is not even a consideration. The precision of the bass is amazing. It will make a cheap sub sound bad. I may the crossover to 60HZ until I get a better sub than the PL-200 I have it in that that room. I am using this as a stereo pair in my bedroom. I wish I could afford to replace the PSBs in my living room because out they would go. These are exciting speakers and these older PSB Image Towers I have for mains and side surround are not exciting in the least.

This JBL speaker just sucks you in and they seem to reveal layer upon layer of detail. You want to play whole library through them all at once.Definitely worth regular price. You are not paying for a great piece of cabinet the beauty of this speaker is its ability make great music... looks I would say it is kind of an odd beast. You won't be looking though, you will be listening. I would have bought a whole 5.1 set at the sale price if I had any idea they were what they are. Some might consider them butt ugly but gosh they sound great.
Edited by gtgray - 1/5/14 at 2:16pm
post #14603 of 15022
I've been thinking of getting a pair of 590's or 580's but haven't been able to find anyone locally in the Philly area. I've currently got the Infinity Classia line (7.1). My usages is 75% Home Theater and 25% music.

Has anyone listened to both lines to give me some sort of comparison? The Classia is very good for home theater but doesn't knock my socks off for music. When I listen to Jazz, I want to feel like I'm in the room with the band, and I think the JBL horns would probably be able to deliver that better.
post #14604 of 15022
The price at Amazon on the 580s is very tempting. I just missed out on the 530s and center channel speaker sale. I would probably build a 5 channel system with these if they lowered the price of the 590 down to where the 580 currently is. Very tempting to try these. I just ordered the SVS Ultra Towers and matching center to test out as well.
post #14605 of 15022

Hello all. Just bought some S312's for $40. They're in ok shape, but sound awesome. been reading in the web that a lot of people exchange their tweeters out i was wondering why?

post #14606 of 15022
Ok, I bought my speakers way back in 1993/4.. have CF120's which I *think* are decent? Lol. I think my center and surrounds are weak, which are Flix 1's, and want to upgrade my center first. (I'm assuming they are junk compared to what's out there today) So basically I need to know a good center speaker that will match the CF120 floor speakers? And I suppose while I'm here, are the CF 120's still considered decent speakers today? I would like to be around $200 for a center. And by match I mean sound, not looks.
Edited by Foocker - 1/5/14 at 5:41pm
post #14607 of 15022
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foocker View Post

Ok, I bought my speakers way back in 1993/4.. have CF120's which I *think* are decent? Lol. I think my center and surrounds are weak, which are Flix 1's, and want to upgrade my center first. (I'm assuming they are junk compared to what's out there today) So basically I need to know a good center speaker that will match the CF120 floor speakers? And I suppose while I'm here, are the CF 120's still considered decent speakers today? I would like to be around $200 for a center. And by match I mean sound, not looks.

I would look at the JBL ES25C center - it will out-class the Flix center
http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES25CBK-Center-Channel-Speaker/dp/B00166VDKS/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388973003&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=jbl+csnter+channel

http://www.jbl.com/estore/jbl/us/products/ES25C/ES25C_JBL_US

If you like your CF120 speakers and enjoy them - then that is all that matters
post #14608 of 15022
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnies Beard View Post

Hello all. Just bought some S312's for $40. They're in ok shape, but sound awesome. been reading in the web that a lot of people exchange their tweeters out i was wondering why?
40$??? NICE!

I'm not sure about the tweeters, but I vaguely remember reading something about similar dome tweeters that came out a year or two after the S-series was made, but were better quality tweeters, and that's probably why they switched them.
post #14609 of 15022
JBL Pro 3 Series LSR308

Anyone looking for my lurid reveal (unpacking) of JBL Pro's LSR308 can check it out here:

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?34783-JBL-3-Series-Powered-studio-Monitors

You'll need to read through the first page where I posted some links and got the usual off-topic chaff from responders.
post #14610 of 15022
Quote:
Originally Posted by zieglj01 View Post

I would look at the JBL ES25C center - it will out-class the Flix center
http://www.amazon.com/JBL-ES25CBK-Center-Channel-Speaker/dp/B00166VDKS/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388973003&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=jbl+csnter+channel

http://www.jbl.com/estore/jbl/us/products/ES25C/ES25C_JBL_US

If you like your CF120 speakers and enjoy them - then that is all that matters

Thanks, I went ahead and bought it. smile.gif
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