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The CopperFields Cinema - Page 4

post #91 of 1213
Thread Starter 
Soapy

My SMX frame will be touching the bottom of the soffet as it is. We will see where it comes out. My frame is 151 x 68 and screen wall is 165 x 89 to the bottom of my soffet and I want to be about 24" off the floor to the bottom of the screen. I have a little wiggle room but not much.

I got 50 bags of sand down in the HT the one side I got done took 27 bags I carried those down one at a time that was way to much work so I got a little more creative cuz my back was not liking that. I used my mower to wheel it to the basment window slide them down a ramp and then wheeled them into the HT with my drywall cart. I should have done that with all of them

I should have the stage finished tonight and then on to the riser.







post #92 of 1213
Looking good! Great progress. As far as the screen position goes I would recommend that you watch several movies against the blank wall before you even order your screen. This way you can get exactly what you want.

After you figure out the position the riser height calculator does a great job to help you with your riser heights. The lower your screen is to the floor the higher your riser needs to be. I have a 54" high 2.35 image that is 23" from the floor with riser height of 16". I think it is about perfect. The back row is about 15' back and the front row is about 10' back from the screen.

Laters,
Jeff
post #93 of 1213
w00ly,

What is the Black material you have under your stage?
post #94 of 1213
Thread Starter 
Roofing felt
post #95 of 1213
Thread Starter 
Jeff

I already have my 2.35 SMX Screen its a 12' veiwable. Riser will be 12"
post #96 of 1213
You planning to screw or nail the top on? 2 layers w/GG (or felt) between?
post #97 of 1213
Thread Starter 
Dave

Yes I am doing 2 layers and screwing them down. I am thinking GreenGlue since I have some tubes left over
post #98 of 1213
Gotcha. Just curious what others were doing. I am going to do two layers + gg whenever I get back cracking. I was debating nailing vs screwing since the nail gun would be easier. . . .
post #99 of 1213
Thread Starter 
God forbid we would ever need to take this stuff apart so I think screwing is the better choice I remember seeing a build not sure who it was that had to take there stage apart and he used liquid nails he had a heck of a time getting it apart.
post #100 of 1213
Thanks for the link showing off the curved stage. It gives me a great guide and things are really looking good.

I'll be checking this thread for sure.
post #101 of 1213
Thread Starter 
Hello all

Well I finally finished the stage. It took 60 bags of sand to fill it all I need to do now is put GG in between the 2 layers of OSB and screw it all down. Next is the riser I am also going to order my linacoustic this week.




post #102 of 1213
Looking good W00lly
I wanted to go with sand for my riser in the rear as well but I ended up going with insulation due to my poor back as well (should have hired someone I guess but it appears to have worked out ok although I do wonder how the subs in the riser would sound with sand compared to the insulation )

I like the grey with the wood but then again I'm partial to grey. The green doesn't look as good to me but perhaps as you noted the color in the pic isn't a true representation in which case.... the green might be better

Good use and thinking with the lawnmower

Looking forward to the new pics

Cheers
Calvin
post #103 of 1213
Quote:
Originally Posted by W00lly View Post

I am also going to cover the whole screen wall in black Velvet since there really wont be that much to do

Velvet or GOM? You might want an AT fabric for your screenwall (although a deep black velvet may help with the video side of the aisle).
post #104 of 1213
Thread Starter 
Dave
I want to use velvet. I am using a SMX screen so the only speaker that will be below the frame and only by a few inchs will be my subs. My screen wall is going to be almost all screen so I think the velvet would really make the screen POP
post #105 of 1213
Makes sense. You are making good progress BTW. I am hoping to reverse my slow down soon. Got a few minutes of pulling wires through conduit over the weekend, but the social schedule was too much.
post #106 of 1213
Thread Starter 
I here you Dave we had all the wifes family in town staying at our house this weekend. I did not do to much of anything but eat and watch football
post #107 of 1213
Quote:
Originally Posted by W00lly View Post

Possible stain color


Hey W00lly, I really like the colour scheme. What is that stain? If you're using Cherry (which I did), you might be really happy with "Red Mahogany" by Minwax. I think it would look great with your other colours.
post #108 of 1213
Thread Starter 
Craig

I guess I should have asked you because I do like the stain color you used. I am also going to copy the way you did the lower half trim on your wall making them one piece I think is the way to go

Man how do I do the php code thingy in my sig so you can just mouse over the copper fields cinema and go to my thread
post #109 of 1213
Quote:
Originally Posted by W00lly View Post

Man how do I do the php code thingy in my sig so you can just mouse over the copper fields cinema and go to my thread

I think the format is [ URL="www.url_here.com"] Text here [/url] (remove the space after the first [
post #110 of 1213
Thread Starter 
Got it thanks Dave
post #111 of 1213
Hey WOOlly, The CFC is coming along very nicely. Had you gone with black seating, I think that it would be the gray carpet hands down. However, with the brown seating you chose (which I really like), I think the olive green carpet would be a better choice. Great post, keep those pics coming.
post #112 of 1213
Thread Starter 
Thanks dmbfan

The green looks alot darker then it does in those pics and in a dim room I think it will be even darker
post #113 of 1213
Thread Starter 
Hello All

Well I got rained out at work today so I spent most of the day working on the framing for my riser Here is where I'm at. Riser dimensions are 7'7" x 11' and It will end up being close to 13" tall once I put 2 layers of decking on.

I decided I wanted to get my riser up off the floor on to some rubber Stud Beam Isolators. I also used 2x10's with joist hangers hoping I will get a good tactical effect from having the deck suspended. Tomorrow I plan on picking up the decking & insulation. I also need to order my step lights and thats going to hold me up















post #114 of 1213
I agree with your idea to get as much of the deck suspended up off the floor as possible. When I build a theater, I will be doing the same.

The subwoofer in my living room transfers enough vibration into the floor that you can actually "feel" the bass. It definately adds to the experience. It makes me grin ear to ear every time. Of course it helps that I have a vertically mounted driver sitting right behind my TV. link

I really hope you get the same effect!

Theater looks great so far...keep it up!!
post #115 of 1213
Thread Starter 
HDDummy

I am thinking of placing a down firing sub behind the rear seating on the riser and see how that works out.
post #116 of 1213
I imagine that should do the trick. I'll stay tuned.
post #117 of 1213
I'm not 100% sure it matters whether the sub is upfiring or downfiring....but what I read is critical, is the ports be terminating in the listening area. After doing sound demoing with my setup over the past week or 2....you can hear the difference. It's really cool hearing the frequency changes that low....never heard anything like it !
Wolly....anyway to have those little feet only in the corners, not every 2' ?
That way you'll have more "span" to vibrate the booms...the more fixed supports you have, the less movement.
post #118 of 1213
Thread Starter 
I could take some out and see how much it flexes when you stand on it
post #119 of 1213
Because of the way risers are built, the only thing that will add to the springiness of the floor surface is to remove the rubber feet from the taller end boards that your hangers are attached too. You can have as many supports as you need on the to sides boards parallel to the joists and it won't reduce the springiness at all.

I would put several on the side boards near the corners and a few along the middle. Place as many as you need under and around the step to provide solid support there.

One other suggestion. Since you are essentially carrying all of the weight of the floor out to the corners, I would put some additional metal angles in the corners where the front and rear boards connect to the side boards. Something like this http://www.framingconnectors.com/product/3

Once you think you have something that looks good....start jumping. If you and one or two other people can jump on it and it doesn't feel like it's going to break, then I'd say it's good to go. If it doesn't feel strong enough, start by adding just one support in the middle of the front and rear board and so on from there.
post #120 of 1213
I would suggest....you've got the "ledgerboard" fixed on the wall....I'd fix the opposite end to the floor with the little feet, and the rest 100% floating or spanning that distance. You've got some serious framing there....you won't have a problem.
More span = more BOOM....I'm spanning 14.5' with 2x10's.
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