HP Opaque Scrim? Has anyone tried it?

It looks like it could work very well. It looks like the width is limited to 60 but that could work well for many people.

One of the drawbacks of this type of material for the average DIYer is availability. Someone in the printing industry could easily get a piece for a single screen but others may not want to invest in a full roll.

Please keep everyone posted as to your results and if it looks good maybe a group purchase could somehow be worked out.

What is "Pretty thick" ? If it's at least 1/8" thick, I'd suggest you use a 'trowel-able' adhesive with a good working time (10 minutes at least) Liquid Nails for Paneling is a great one, and spreads out to a very thin coating that will not create "bumps or ridges" on anything short of something with the thickness and rigidity of Corrugated Cardboard.


Try it, but it won't really work to do much in that regard, because for a surface to "Trap Bass" it must be able to absorb, not deflect. Your surface will just be another flat, hard wall-like surface, although by having the insulation between the Furring Strips, that will prevent the screen from rattling with the effects of sound pressure levels.

But there is another thing to consider. How far apart to place those strips? I'd advise a gap no more than 8" if your using 1/4" Drywall. If you want a 110" long piece of 1/4" material to stretch across that length without any noticeable waves, you must set the end furring strips in place, then stretch a taunt string line across the distance at 1/4 down from the Top and Bottom, and when putting up each additional strip, adjust accordingly with shims or shaving. Make these strips exactly 1" bigger (longer, height wise) than your actual screen material. **

**You should consider that this is an assembly that cannot be "moved, and the 3/4" gap you'll have will not give you any working room to place rope Lighting afterwards. So you'll have to construct the Furring Strip frame as being like a Box Frame that is, and install the Rope Lighting into the type of "U" Channel strips you can glue/stick to the perimeter of the framework. Most places like Home Depot who sell Rope Lighting Kits also sell 6' sections of "U Channel" with "Sticky Back". I always place a few small screws through such to keep it in place.


I'd also use a strong adhesive with a quick bond to apply the Dry Wall to the Furring strips. Liquid Nails for Projects would be good. Take a 2" x 4" x 10' and screw it to the wall with it "lengthwise" across the distance. Place the screws no more than 2" out from the edge of the "Furring Box" (...almost 1" from the installed Rope Lighting...)so they will be covered by you 2-1/2' wide velvet trim.

Set a piece of Drywall in place, mark it's edge's location, add another Furring strip or a piece of Plywood Deadwood at any break point not supported (1" x 2" furring strips do no offer much "Footing" for two adjoining edges to meet together on. )
Attach the Dry Wall with the Liquid Nails for Projects by applying a 1/4" wide bead the length of every Fur Strip (...but only on the area of Fur Strips that lie under the area of Drywall your specifically hanging at that moment...)

Put down those beads, then take a disposable piece of something stiff with a smooth edge, or a 2" Putty Knife or Scraper, and smear the Liquid nails flat on each Fur Strip. Place the Dry Wall into place quickly(...of course you'll do the bottom pieces first, then stack the top pieces on them....cut the Dry Wall so it goes on in a "Brick Laying" staggered manner.) and press into place, then shoot Dry Wall screws into the Furring Strips at the outermost edges where they will still fall underneath the Trim to be applied later. This will, along with the adhesive on every available Furring Strip's surface area, will be just fine to keep everything in place while the Glue completely sets.


See above recommendations.


Well then, take your time and knock this out. If your using this material, keep in mind you can also give it a coating that will ramp up it's performance. You could Roll or Spray almost any of several paint applications that will be far better than even your local HT Guy's screen, so you might want to consider that as an option.

To help you understand my gibberish-like instructions, I whipped you up an illustration. I hope it helps you on your way.

Mississippiman

I hate to spit in your Post Toasties, but you do not want to wedge the Rope lighting into a space where it touches on both sides. Even though the lights are miniscule, under those conditions the strands can get quite overheated, leading to a greatly reduced lifespan, or in some cases, actually scorch a cloth material, or heat a painted surface to the point you can smell the "heat".

It just takes a very small space....but that spacing is essential in it's necessity.

Touching on two sides is not allowed.