Originally Posted by SSweetImpalaSS
Today I took a 2x3 foot sample of the HP material to my local HT guy.
I am going to make a DIY Screen with this material. The only problem, is that this material is very very difficult to stretch. Looks like that I might have to adhere it to some type of backing. The stuff is pretty thick and would work great with spray adhesive onto some type of board.
What is "Pretty thick" ? If it's at least 1/8" thick, I'd suggest you use a 'trowel-able' adhesive with a good working time (10 minutes at least) Liquid Nails for Paneling
is a great one, and spreads out to a very thin coating that will not create "bumps or ridges" on anything short of something with the thickness and rigidity of Corrugated Cardboard.
This is what I have in mind... The screen size I am going for is CIH 110x47. I was thinking of putting some 1x1 furring strips up on the screen wall. Mount a 1/4 inch piece of drywall to the furring strips. Between the furring strips add some insulation. If I am going to have a gap, then stuff it with some pink stuff and could be a mini bass trap. I have no idea if that would work as a bass trap, but I'll give it a try anyway.
Try it, but it won't really work to do much in that regard, because for a surface to "Trap Bass" it must be able to absorb, not deflect. Your surface will just be another flat, hard wall-like surface, although by having the insulation between the Furring Strips, that will prevent the screen from rattling with the effects of sound pressure levels.
But there is another thing to consider. How far apart to place those strips? I'd advise a gap no more than 8" if your using 1/4" Drywall. If you want a 110" long piece of 1/4" material to stretch across that length without any noticeable waves, you must set the end furring strips in place, then stretch a taunt string line across the distance at 1/4 down from the Top and Bottom, and when putting up each additional strip, adjust accordingly with shims or shaving. Make these strips exactly 1" bigger (longer, height wise) than your actual screen material. **
**You should consider that this is an assembly that cannot be "moved, and the 3/4" gap you'll have will not give you any working room to place rope Lighting afterwards. So you'll have to construct the Furring Strip frame as being like a Box Frame that is, and install the Rope Lighting into the type of "U" Channel strips you can glue/stick to the perimeter of the framework. Most places like Home Depot who sell Rope Lighting Kits also sell 6' sections of "U Channel" with "Sticky Back". I always place a few small screws through such to keep it in place.
After the drywall is hung, then I will have a smooth surface to work with. I will use adhesive to attach the screen material to the drywall.
I'd also use a strong adhesive with a quick bond to apply the Dry Wall to the Furring strips. Liquid Nails for Projects would be good. Take a 2" x 4" x 10' and screw it to the wall with it "lengthwise" across the distance. Place the screws no more than 2" out from the edge of the "Furring Box" (...almost 1" from the installed Rope Lighting...)so they will be covered by you 2-1/2' wide velvet trim.
Set a piece of Drywall in place, mark it's edge's location, add another Furring strip or a piece of Plywood Deadwood at any break point not supported (1" x 2" furring strips do no offer much "Footing" for two adjoining edges to meet together on. )
Attach the Dry Wall with the Liquid Nails for Projects by applying a 1/4" wide bead the length of every Fur Strip (...but only on the area of Fur Strips that lie under the area of Drywall your specifically hanging at that moment...)
Put down those beads, then take a disposable piece of something stiff with a smooth edge, or a 2" Putty Knife or Scraper, and smear the Liquid nails flat on each Fur Strip. Place the Dry Wall into place quickly(...of course you'll do the bottom pieces first, then stack the top pieces on them....cut the Dry Wall so it goes on in a "Brick Laying" staggered manner.) and press into place, then shoot Dry Wall screws into the Furring Strips at the outermost edges where they will still fall underneath the Trim to be applied later. This will, along with the adhesive on every available Furring Strip's surface area, will be just fine to keep everything in place while the Glue completely sets.
I plan on putting rope light around the screen hidden in the gap to give the screen a glow or floating look. The screen with also have velvet trim.
See above recommendations.
Any other Ideas would be great. If I decide to go that route, I will take pictures. LOL I am a long way off from getting a projector, so I won't have any screen shots, but only pictures of the build.
Well then, take your time and knock this out. If your using this material, keep in mind you can also give it a coating that will ramp up it's performance. You could Roll
almost any of several paint applications that will be far better than even your local HT Guy's screen, so you might want to consider that as an option.
To help you understand my gibberish-like instructions, I whipped you up an illustration. I hope it helps you on your way.