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"The" Onkyo TX-SR875 Thread - Page 102

post #3031 of 6033
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Cate View Post

I'm interested in the SR875 (and possibly the 905 or 805), but my front speakers (Magnepan 3.6r's) need to be driven by an amplifier with lots of power and current. I would like to use one of the Onkyo AVR's (because of their many features), but I think I should continue to drive my Maggie 3.6rs with my present external amp (a large Rotel unit with lots of power at 4 ohms). My other speakers (center, surrounds) are smaller and less power-hungry, and I would propose to use the amps in the AVR to drive them, but I would like to use the preamp outputs on the AVR to drive my Rotel amp for the front channels.

Would this be a good arrangement or not? I ask because the owners manual for my present (legacy Onkyo) AVR specifically states that the audio amplifier outputs should be turned OFF if using the preamp outputs. Is this necessary or essential for good audio, and is it also the instruction given in the OMs for the new Onkyo AVRs? If it is, I couldn't very well use the front preamp outputs but not all of the preamp outputs. (Of course, another alternative would be to use all the aVR preamp outputs and connect them to my other power amps.)

Thanks for any inputs or suggestions.
Jim Cate

Why not look at the Integra 9.8 pre amp? Made by Onkyo -- the same or similar to the 875 or 905 without the poweramp.

Another thought, the 875 is THX rated and has enough power to turn any speaker I've ever owned to confetti.
post #3032 of 6033
Quote:
Originally Posted by enzo-ita View Post

Thanks. I still have some doubts about.

If it is trough that the audyssey adjusts the speakers delay in order to move forward or backward the sound there is something I do not understand.

What is twisting my brain is how the Audyssey can know how to adjust the speakers delay if you do not follow a predeterminated sequence or scheme.

I think the audyssey makes a triangulation like a gps and adjust the speakers thinking that the microphone is listening from a determinated position.

If you do not follow the examples in the manual, aren't you fooling it?

Assume you have
S6
S5
S4
S1-S2-S3.

If you start from S2 when it asks for position one and then you go to S6 when asked for position two and then you go to S4 for position 3, it will think that S2 is ahead of S6 and instead is behind.

Please give some light on this!!!!

ciao from Italy

enzo

Audyssey calculates the distances to each speaker from the first position only, say S1, purely by the delay it measures. It does not measure the distances to the speakers using any of the other positions. It does not know exactly where each speaker is, only how far away it is from S1. That is what is reported as distance, and sent to the receiver as the value to use for delay. And that is why you want to use a position in the middle of your listening area as the first measurement position.

It does not do any triangulation, a la GPS.
post #3033 of 6033
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pharcyde23 View Post

Strange that as many {av sync/lip sync}problems as people report with them on this site I still see their banner ad in rotation here, specifically plugging the 805.

I was considering trying the 875 but now it looks like a total brand switch will be necessary. Wish I didnt have to do it because I really like this machine for everything else.

Personally, I don't get this either. First, there are sync adjustments IN THE 875! If you do have a delay problem, you just adjust it in the menu and it's gone. Second, I don't use anything unusual... DISH satellite box, Sony Blu-ray, Toshiba HD DVD, Sony and Pioneer displays. I have NO sync problems except NBC HD and that's because the server they use to feed the Mountain Time Zone is not working correctly and has not been working correctly for more than a year in spite of the local affiliate trying to get them to fix it. And even with that severe delay problem, if I get distracted by The Tonight Show, I can go into the menu and reset the sync time and eliminate the delay... I just have to put it back to the right setting for all the other channels which have no delay issue when I'm done. So I have NO gripe at all with the 875 re. sync issues.

In 2006, when we were looking for a new washer, dryer, refrigerator, range, microwave, and dishwasher, I used the interenet to do extensive research to help me decide which models to buy. Did you know that there's not a SINGLE model or brand of these appliances at ANY price that doesn't have severe and incapacitating design, engineering, assembly, or service/support problems. Not one of them is worth owning. Every appliance on the market is a complete piece of crap. So says the internet. We ended up getting a mix of Samsung, LG, and Whirlpool appliances and haven't had a problem with anything. It's the nature of the beast. Read enough about ANY product on the internet and you can find 1 or 20 reasons why you shouldn't buy it.
post #3034 of 6033
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Cate View Post

I think I should continue to drive my Maggie 3.6rs with my present external amp (a large Rotel unit with lots of power at 4 ohms). My other speakers (center, surrounds) are smaller and less power-hungry, and I would propose to use the amps in the AVR to drive them, but I would like to use the preamp outputs on the AVR to drive my Rotel amp for the front channels.

Would this be a good arrangement or not? I ask because the owners manual for my present (legacy Onkyo) AVR specifically states that the audio amplifier outputs should be turned OFF if using the preamp outputs.
Thanks for any inputs or suggestions.
Jim Cate

I used 4 of the amp channels in the 875 to run my L&R speakers... one channel for mid/tweeter connections, a second channel for the woofer connections. I used a 5th channel for the center speaker and I used an external amp in the back of the room for the surround speakers via the pre-out. Right now, all of the channels are using external amplifiers, so I took the center channel speaker and connected it to the 875 so it was the only speaker connected to an 875 amp... no problem, center channel worked fine that way.

Your plan to use your external amp for the Magnepans is a good idea. The 875 will allow connecting 2 amp channels to each L & R speaker, but even THAT probably isn't enough power for the Magnepans -they like lots and lots of current from beefy solid state amps to perform their best. Your stereo Rotel amp probably weighs as much or more than the whole Onkyo unit with 7 amp channels in it so that Rotel amp is going to have far better current capabilities.

The amps in the Onkyo receiver sound really great - I've never heard an AVR with amps that sound this good... as long as you are using speakers that don't over-tax the power capabilities of the amps. Even the previous Onkyo receiver I had sounds LAME compared to the 875 - and it was as good as or better than any other AVR I'd heard. Heck, I've heard external, standalone amps that sound worse than the 875's amps and I've NEVER encountered that before.
post #3035 of 6033
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pharcyde23 View Post

Strange that as many problems as people report with them on this site I still see their banner ad in rotation here, specifically plugging the 805.

I was considering trying the 875 but now it looks like a total brand switch will be necessary. Wish I didnt have to do it because I really like this machine for everything else.

I have no lip-sync issues whatsoever with my 875, FWIW.
post #3036 of 6033
Quote:
Originally Posted by uxbridge View Post

JVI



I took my new monoprice cables to a friends place and replaced his hdmi cable with mine and it worked fine. I took his home, tried it and I still have the same problem. So I guess I will have to relocate the receiver to use a shorter cable or the new receiver is just no good in the hdmi input department. I think I will send an email off to Onkyo, their FAQ's say that you can use up to 50', and search this thread for the post you ar talking about.

Thanks Bill

There are "powered" HDMI cables that work over long runs and there are powered HDMI splitters (www.monoprice.com) that MAY (not sure about this) help you with longer runs like this by running a 25' cable to the splitter, and 25' from the splitter to the video display. You'd use just 1 of the outputs of the splitter in this application.
post #3037 of 6033
Hello, all-

Been researching a new receiver and rather like this model. Started to read through all the posts here and thought a summary question/opinion seeking posts was a good idea as I am looking for the opinions & experiences of people who have owned this unit for awhile.

So far, I like this unit, the Denon 3803 and the Sony 5300. This one looks like the best overall value and performer. My research, however, gives me a few reservations, which is why I seek the collective wisdom of this board and actual users.

1) Does the unit get as scorching hot as some say? Or, might this occur only under extreme levels? I've got a semi-open TV stand/AV holder with a glass shelf 1" above the unit an relatively open sides, etc

2) What is the real world video switching, etc like? Does the unit simply work? I am not interested in having to be an electrical engineer to use it, nt to mention having to work in the "Wife approval factor". She will NOT do much more than turn it on.

3) Is this unit sufficiently advanced that I won't see a new unit vastly approved in 6 months? I understand full well that technology marches on, but I hate to see a significant change akin to the HDMI change to 1.3a we just experienced.

Any other suggestions or input is welcome. Thanks to all in advance.
post #3038 of 6033
Quote:
Originally Posted by jws3 View Post

1) Does the unit get as scorching hot as some say? Or, might this occur only under extreme levels? I've got a semi-open TV stand/AV holder with a glass shelf 1" above the unit an relatively open sides, etc

It does for me, even in an open stand. Even at low levels the top surface is pretty toasty. I've got about 2 inches clearance above it and open sides and rear.

Quote:
2) What is the real world video switching, etc like? Does the unit simply work? I am not interested in having to be an electrical engineer to use it, nt to mention having to work in the "Wife approval factor". She will NOT do much more than turn it on.

Haven't had any problems so far. It takes 5 or 6 seconds to switch inputs and resolution switching will cause delays depending on your equipment. It works well with CEC equipment.

Quote:
3) Is this unit sufficiently advanced that I won't see a new unit vastly approved in 6 months? I understand full well that technology marches on, but I hate to see a significant change akin to the HDMI change to 1.3a we just experienced.

There's always something coming down the pipeline but considering that many 1.3 capabilities are barely being used as it is I wouldn't worry about new HDMI standards.
post #3039 of 6033
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiasco View Post

I'm starting to have serious audio dropout issues with my 875 and HR20. My only initial problem was during FF/RW functions on the HR20 the 875 and HR20 would dropout video and audio and then reacquire.

Now, during normal viewing of live TV I get fairly frequent audio dropouts usually preceded by a funky audio as if the audio output were suddenly coming out of a tin can. The audio drops for 3 or 4 seconds and then is clear again.

Any suggestions?

Thanks


I get the same thing with HR20 & 875. I checked the audio going directly to display monitor and it still cut-out. So it's not the 875. It seems to be a reception problem with the dish. Doesn't happen all the time / mainly during primetime, maybe more with local broadcast stations carried by D*TV. A couple of times a month, for a variety of reasons, I need to hit the reset button on the HR20. This seems to clear things up for a while.
post #3040 of 6033
Quote:
Originally Posted by jws3 View Post


1) Does the unit get as scorching hot as some say? Or, might this occur only under extreme levels? I've got a semi-open TV stand/AV holder with a glass shelf 1" above the unit an relatively open sides, etc

Dude, the glass shelf 1" above will melt You'll definitely need some fans (search previous posts). But with 1" clearance I don't know how they'd fit.

2) What is the real world video switching, etc like? Does the unit simply work? I am not interested in having to be an electrical engineer to use it, nt to mention having to work in the "Wife approval factor". She will NOT do much more than turn it on.

The video switching is not designed for channel surfers. There is about a 3 second delay between video sources (at least with Sat receiver). But once Reon menu is set-up the PQ is fantastic.

3) Is this unit sufficiently advanced that I won't see a new unit vastly approved in 6 months? I understand full well that technology marches on, but I hate to see a significant change akin to the HDMI change to 1.3a we just experienced.

I'm not worried about it.

Any other suggestions or input is welcome. Thanks to all in advance.

Get it! . . . or get the 905. Maybe it runs cooler with fewer "issues". . . I don't know.
post #3041 of 6033
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rico2 View Post

I get the same thing with HR20 & 875. I checked the audio going directly to display monitor and it still cut-out. So it's not the 875. It seems to be a reception problem with the dish. Doesn't happen all the time / mainly during primetime, maybe more with local broadcast stations carried by D*TV. A couple of times a month, for a variety of reasons, I need to hit the reset button on the HR20. This seems to clear things up for a while.


Next question. Do you also experience the FF/RW audio/video loss on the HR20 with your 875?

Have you tried passing the audio from the HR20 to the 875 w/ optical instead and if so did it help with the problem.
post #3042 of 6033
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rico2 View Post

I get the same thing with HR20 & 875. I checked the audio going directly to display monitor and it still cut-out. So it's not the 875. It seems to be a reception problem with the dish. Doesn't happen all the time / mainly during primetime, maybe more with local broadcast stations carried by D*TV. A couple of times a month, for a variety of reasons, I need to hit the reset button on the HR20. This seems to clear things up for a while.

This is a DirecTV thing. I have this same thing on a new HR21 DVR (black one) here in Phoenix.
post #3043 of 6033
I was ready to pull the pin and purchase this unit, but reading the many threads about "issues" is starting to scare me away. I really want to hear from current owners. I started a thread/poll to find out what percentage of owners have issues and would purchase this unit again. Here is the thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VisionOn View Post

It does for me, even in an open stand. Even at low levels the top surface is pretty toasty. I've got about 2 inches clearance above it and open sides and rear.

This is one problem that I am comfortable dealing with.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VisionOn View Post

Haven't had any problems so far. It takes 5 or 6 seconds to switch inputs and resolution switching will cause delays depending on your equipment. It works well with CEC equipment.

The switching time I can live with, but the video/audio sync issues I can not. As mentioned by others, the WAF is extremely important not to mention that I want to use the unit without major issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VisionOn View Post

There's always something coming down the pipeline but considering that many 1.3 capabilities are barely being used as it is I wouldn't worry about new HDMI standards.

My current receiver, Marantz SR7200 is now ~6 years old. I am hoping my next receiver may enjoy the same usefulness. Hard to say with technological advances. I have selected the 875 as one of my potential next receivers due to the 1.3a capabilities and taking a chance this technology will last me a while. Hope I am right

I would also like to hear for anyone using a Motorola HDPVR (I believe DCT6416) and whether they are having any issues with it and the 875. Could the lip sync issues be tied to specific brands/models, etc of equipment? I plan to upconvert everything to 1080p and run it to a panasonic AE2000U projector.

Cheers
post #3044 of 6033
I've had my 875 for over a month now, no regrets. One issue though, I'm hooking up my HD STB (Motorola DSR-505) with DVI>HDMI cable, and I'm getting no signal through my reciever, then out to my Sammy 4671. When I do attempt DVI>HDMI from time to time I get the Onkyo display "Resolution Error". I've played with every single output resolution in the STB to no avail. Also played with the 875 settings reading from other posts like turning off HDMI Audio in the Onkyo ect ect... Any suggestions thrown out there are much appreciated.
post #3045 of 6033
Hi everyone. I have spent a few hours reading but there are so many pages, I just don't have time to read it all...excuse me if I ask something that might have been asked before.

I am very interested in the 875. I reeally want the Reon and not many blu-ray players use it, so this would be ideal. My question is, say you are playing something that is 1080p on blu-ray, will the receiver know it's already inputting 1080p and the HQV processor does nothing? Also, when playing a regular dvd on the blu-ray player, what setting do I have to have the player set at (480...ect)? Overall, to the owners of this receiver, can you give me some ups and downs of this machine? Does it do the clicking sound with the PS3 like the lower end Onkyo receivers do? Are you happy with it? Would you have gone with a different receiver? This took me 1 l/2 years to save for, so I want to be sure. Thanks for your time.
post #3046 of 6033
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiasco View Post

Next question. Do you also experience the FF/RW audio/video loss on the HR20 with your 875?

No audio/video loss on FF or RW.

I use both Opt Digital inputs on my 875 (for HR20 and DVD). (The HDMI audio test was between the HR20 and monitor -- sound still cut-out) I have no audio problem with the 875. My problem is either with the HR20 receiver or reception.

Sounds like yours may be more serious. Try the reset button or call D* service. Maybe the HR20 thread has more information on this problem?
post #3047 of 6033
Quote:
Originally Posted by versace View Post

I've had my 875 for over a month now, no regrets. One issue though, I'm hooking up my HD STB (Motorola DSR-505) with DVI>HDMI cable, and I'm getting no signal through my reciever, then out to my Sammy 4671. When I do attempt DVI>HDMI from time to time I get the Onkyo display "Resolution Error". I've played with every single output resolution in the STB to no avail. Also played with the 875 settings reading from other posts like turning off HDMI Audio in the Onkyo ect ect... Any suggestions thrown out there are much appreciated.

Motorola cable boxes with DVI never seem to work. Contact your cable company and find out if they can provide you a newer model with HDMI.
post #3048 of 6033
Quote:
Originally Posted by versace View Post

I've had my 875 for over a month now, no regrets. One issue though, I'm hooking up my HD STB (Motorola DSR-505) with DVI>HDMI cable, and I'm getting no signal through my reciever, then out to my Sammy 4671. When I do attempt DVI>HDMI from time to time I get the Onkyo display "Resolution Error". I've played with every single output resolution in the STB to no avail. Also played with the 875 settings reading from other posts like turning off HDMI Audio in the Onkyo ect ect... Any suggestions thrown out there are much appreciated.

Resolution Error comes up when the monitor can't handle the signal (e.g. 1080p/60 signal to a monitor that can only handle up to 1080p/24 -> like mine). As far as the 875 settings, Menu 1.1 Resolution to AUTO is what I use. Setting it to THROUGH will take a 1080p/60 signal and pass it through untouched from the box to the monitor.
post #3049 of 6033
Quote:
Originally Posted by mntwister View Post

Hi everyone. I have spent a few hours reading but there are so many pages, I just don't have time to read it all...excuse me if I ask something that might have been asked before.

I am very interested in the 875. I reeally want the Reon and not many blu-ray players use it, so this would be ideal. My question is, say you are playing something that is 1080p on blu-ray, will the receiver know it's already inputting 1080p and the HQV processor does nothing? Also, when playing a regular dvd on the blu-ray player, what setting do I have to have the player set at (480...ect)? Overall, to the owners of this receiver, can you give me some ups and downs of this machine? Does it do the clicking sound with the PS3 like the lower end Onkyo receivers do? Are you happy with it? Would you have gone with a different receiver? This took me 1 l/2 years to save for, so I want to be sure. Thanks for your time.

I use the 875 with the PS3 40GB unit. I wirelessly access media from my laptop via the PS3 using the free TVersity software to act as the media server. This serves the purpose of getting internet radio (Shoutcast -> need to download Winamp from their site). So, the only thing missing is HD Radio but there are no stations in my area anyhow so I am not missing the networking/HD Radio capability of say a 905. I get no clicks,buzzes, hums, audio delays, lip synch problems reported by some. Using the AUTO resolution setting on the 875 means you can play your regular DVD's from the PS3 and not worry. I get a 1080i/60 signeal for regular DVD's and a 1080p/24 signal for Blu-Ray movies on my Pioneer 6070. The PS3 is set on Auto output with the ability to use the 1080p/24 mode available on Blu-Ray disks. It all looks terrific. I use a small muffin fan on the top back right area and the temperature does not rise above 98.6°F (37°C). Everything works. The FW version is 1.04 which the most up to date for the 875.
Just buy it from an authorized dealership with a good reputation and you will be fine.
post #3050 of 6033
I think your summary of the setup with your PS3 just sold me on the 875. Thank you!
post #3051 of 6033
When i check the firmware of my 875 it says

UNKNOWN ---> in the display.

Anybody else has this?

Ok, i have 1.04. I blinked my eyes and missed it the first time...
post #3052 of 6033
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxdb View Post

I used 4 of the amp channels in the 875 to run my L&R speakers... one channel for mid/tweeter connections, a second channel for the woofer connections. I used a 5th channel for the center speaker and I used an external amp in the back of the room for the surround speakers via the pre-out. Right now, all of the channels are using external amplifiers, so I took the center channel speaker and connected it to the 875 so it was the only speaker connected to an 875 amp... no problem, center channel worked fine that way.

Your plan to use your external amp for the Magnepans is a good idea. The 875 will allow connecting 2 amp channels to each L & R speaker, but even THAT probably isn't enough power for the Magnepans -they like lots and lots of current from beefy solid state amps to perform their best. Your stereo Rotel amp probably weighs as much or more than the whole Onkyo unit with 7 amp channels in it so that Rotel amp is going to have far better current capabilities.

The amps in the Onkyo receiver sound really great - I've never heard an AVR with amps that sound this good... as long as you are using speakers that don't over-tax the power capabilities of the amps. Even the previous Onkyo receiver I had sounds LAME compared to the 875 - and it was as good as or better than any other AVR I'd heard. Heck, I've heard external, standalone amps that sound worse than the 875's amps and I've NEVER encountered that before.


Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, my Rotel amp weighs over 85 pounds and is rated as 750 watts per channel into 4 ohms, and it seems to drive the large 3.6r Maggies well. However, I think the 875 amp sections would be fine for my smaller speakers. I would be ready to get either the 875 or the 905 if I could be sure I'm getting one with the latest firmware upgrades. - But I don't know whether our local Onkyo dealers (Frys, CC) would or could do that.

Jim
post #3053 of 6033
So I set the Sat. box on native resolution and now when I change channels it takes almost 10 seconds before the selected channel appears.

If I choose a resolution (say 720 stretch) it takes about 4. Any way around this?

Thanks
post #3054 of 6033
Quote:
Originally Posted by wneils View Post

So I set the Sat. box on native resolution and now when I change channels it takes almost 10 seconds before the selected channel appears.

If I choose a resolution (say 720 stretch) it takes about 4. Any way around this?

Thanks

Ummm.....don't change the channel??? Ok seriously that is annoying but there may not be an good way around the issue. HDMI seems to be really slow when changing the resolution between stations and even audio changes on the same channel can cause slow audio switching. Gotta love the bleeding edge of technology.
post #3055 of 6033
I love this unit.

Upgraded from a ROTEL 1067 for the hdmi. I was afraid that the sound wouldn't be nearly as good. What a relief.

I don't use the Audessey though. I like the sound better with EQ off. I do find that the speaker distances which it picked are spot on. Also, my subwoofer has never sounded more in sync than now.

BTW, NO lip sync issues at all with "lip sync" turned on.
post #3056 of 6033
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rico2 View Post

No audio/video loss on FF or RW.

I use both Opt Digital inputs on my 875 (for HR20 and DVD). (The HDMI audio test was between the HR20 and monitor -- sound still cut-out) I have no audio problem with the 875. My problem is either with the HR20 receiver or reception.

Sounds like yours may be more serious. Try the reset button or call D* service. Maybe the HR20 thread has more information on this problem?

I went and purchased an optical audio cable last night. I switched the audio input from the HDMI cable to the digital OPTICAL.

This appears to have eliminated the problem with video dropouts 100%!

Video still comes in via HDMI from the HR20.

Wife = Very Happy
post #3057 of 6033
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Cate View Post

Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, my Rotel amp weighs over 85 pounds and is rated as 750 watts per channel into 4 ohms, and it seems to drive the large 3.6r Maggies well. However, I think the 875 amp sections would be fine for my smaller speakers. I would be ready to get either the 875 or the 905 if I could be sure I'm getting one with the latest firmware upgrades. - But I don't know whether our local Onkyo dealers (Frys, CC) would or could do that.

Jim

Before you purchase the unit, just tell the salesman you'll be happy to purchase the unit if it has firmware 1.04 or higher installed, but that the unit has to come out of the box and be plugged in to check the version. If they are accommodating, they will do this. Just be sure you know how to check the firmware version in advance so there's not a lot of fumbling around. Unplug the unit, hold down the ENTER button on the front panel (not the remote control button), plug the unit in while holding in the ENTER button on the front panel. The version number appears in the display on the front panel.

If they won't do this in the store, you can always take it home, check the version number and use the 30-day return policy to get your money back. In one case where I was going to do this years ago, I had the sales person go get the manager and I explained why it was so important for the unit to have the newer firmware and that if I was forced to take the unit home in a sealed box and it did NOT have the new firmware that I would bring the unit back and they would be stuck with an open box unit anyway. The Manager said "let's open the box". He understood one way or the other that I was going to end up with the new firmware or he was going to end up with an open box.
post #3058 of 6033
How do I pass the signal through unaffected by the Reon? Things like the Daily show etc. seem somewhat distorted no matter what aspect I use on the Plasma or the Sat box.

Would like to see what they look llike without the converter.
post #3059 of 6033
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxdb View Post

Unplug the unit, hold down the ENTER button on the front panel (not the remote control button), plug the unit in while holding in the ENTER button on the front panel. The version number appears in the display on the front panel.

Actually ^^ will give you a FW upgrade number. The MAIN FW version can be found by pressing and holding "display" then press "standby" ON THE RECEIVER. The Main FW will flash for a second on the receiver. While this is displayed one can scroll through various other FW numbers by using one of the arrow keys (can't remember which one). I had a cheat sheet on all this secret menu stuff, but deleted it in a brief moment of rage. But it's available on this string or http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post12748403 but it would take some digging.
post #3060 of 6033
Quote:
Originally Posted by wneils View Post

So what resolution do I set the D.TV HR-20 sat. box. I guess I don't understand the term "native resolutiion". Thanks

Bill

Native resolution is the resolution that the device, in your case an HR20, sees from the stream it is being fed. So some channel might be at 720P, another at 1080i, a third at 480i. Native resolution would transmit those resolutions directly over the HDMI or Component cables without any processing. Processing would be done further down the chain by the receiver or the display.

Tivo Series 3 has a whole bunch of output options including native output. I have no idea about the HR20 as I would be thrown out of the house if our DVR was a non Tivo unit. (we have 3 Tivo Series 3 and 4 DirecTivos hacked in our home. Need lots of tuners LOL)
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