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Twinseltown Theater - Page 8

post #211 of 1807
Thread Starter 
Good point on the nailing. He's only 3, and doesn't have the strength to actually nail one in, but I can let him hold the hammer with me. As a father, I do hope that most of what we're doing is creating memories.

I, too, use AutoCad and Photoshop for many hours a day. Sketchup was extremely impressive! Enough so that I'm going to try it out for professional use. We could start implimenting perspectives of our projects. I'm terrible at doing the "structure" of a perspective, but this would lay out the bones for me! I'm thinking 2 hours is sketchup could save me 10 hours with rulers, etc. Definetely try it out sooner rather than later.

Not much happened in the room the last two days. I put a temporary top on the bar. I figure its going to make a fine workbench over the build.

We're actually entertaining in the room over the weekend, so I'm cleaning up and putting table clothes over things.
post #212 of 1807
Thread Starter 
I've contacted seymourav, and got a quote on my screen. I'm looking at doing material only, and a DIY frame. They were priced reasonably, and are mailing a sample to me for testing.

Once I approve of the sample, I will start designing and constructing my screen wall. I'm excited about some of the new possibilities that acoustically transparency will provide for the design and aesthetics.
post #213 of 1807
Looks good. I need to try this sketch up as well.
post #214 of 1807
Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

Too much time on our hands? You do realize that this thread is now a year old and I'm about 10% of the way through my build?

At least i'm not alone. My build is taking very long to complete. Your theater is looking great. Can't wait to see some updates.
post #215 of 1807
Thread Starter 
Satilliteguy, I just finished reading your thread. You've had a lot of demo to do that I didn't have. So you have a good reason. Looking good! Do you have any "inspiration" photos, or sketches of what you think the final product might look like? I'll stay posted on your thread.

Since my room is in operation during the build () I had to move all the equipment to the rear of the room yesterday. Preparing for finishing out the screen wall now. With that, the sub moved to the back wall as well. It sounds much better in that location. I can actually tell that I have a sub again. When it was on that concrete floor, it just disappeared.

I'm thinking of doing the false screen wall 24" out. In researching various speaker and subwoofer depths, it seems that 24" will give me room for most any choice I make. What depth have you guys all allowed for?

Picked up some conduit yesterday as well. One run from equipment to the front wall in 2" Carlon and a run from equipment to projector in 2" Carlon.
post #216 of 1807
Hi Tony

I used the screen material from seymourav and have been very satisfied. Chris was able to get it to me 12' wide after putting ~13 degree angle on it. It is amazing for sound and picture...
post #217 of 1807
Thread Starter 
Dan, glad to hear you are happy with seymourav. My sample's not here yet. Hope it is by the weekend. Does it make sense to buy the fabric cut on an angle even if my current projector doesn't show a moire pattern? I think it does. Sort of future proofing?

Was able to spend about 4 hours in the room today. Here's a shot of the entry steps completed with the riser boards in place. I used 1/4" OSB to bend the curve. One final touch will be to put a bullnose board across the top riser.



I also got my electrical finished in the screen wall. Three general purpose outlets and one dedicated subwoofer outlet. Notice, I didn't run any speaker lines. With the false wall setup, I'm assuming everything can be run between walls.

I then went to work on the sheetrock, and got most of that done. Here's the screenwall as of this evening.



Question: If the sheetrock is being covered with insulation on the bottom and fabric up top, does the tape and mudding have to look pretty? I'm thinking I may do it myself, which will be extremely amatuer, but doesn't that work? If for some reason you guys say it needs to be pretty, I'll have to hire someone in.

Come on guys...show me the love. I've been working hard!

Next project: Front stage
post #218 of 1807
Slap it up, don't worry if it isn't pretty.
post #219 of 1807
Thread Starter 
Thanks BIG! Finally something I can take the easy way out on.
post #220 of 1807
Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

Thanks BIG! Finally something I can take the easy way out on.

I paid out my drywall but in the end kind of regretted that I didn't pay for a final coat of mudwork in my HT. I opted for a single pass and it made for a mess whenever I had to sand a little to get furring strips and fabric tracks in place. It also completely dictated a fabric approach in all cases where I may have gone with paint on my soffits. In the end I'm happy with how it ended up for me, but those are at least some things to consider.

-Ryan
post #221 of 1807
tony123,

Great job on the step, looks sweet...

I say if your covering up the walls then go ahead and do the compounding yourself. Not that hard to do. Just get yourself a trowel that's nice and wide about 18". as you do your seems go down the middle pressing 2 or 3 fingers on the back of the trowel provide good pressure then repeat on etheir side to clean the excess. This should get you smooth enough for your purposes.
post #222 of 1807
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the input oman and ryan. I haven't started pricing GOM fabrics yet. Have no idea? It may be cheaper to higher a drywall crew and paint than to get 100% material? Either way, I'll have GOM up to the top of acoustic treatment. But I do like a painted approach for soffits/columns and upper third of walls....hmmm.

Watched a movie last night with the kids. And I'll say this again, the riser and new sub placement have had a profound impace on the sound! WOW! I still think I'm headed to dual subs, but at least now you don't wonder if it's on or not!
post #223 of 1807
GOM comes in 66 inch wide rolls.

so 1 yard is 15 sq ft +/-

Fabric will cost $1 +/- sq ft for planning purposes.
post #224 of 1807
Thread Starter 
So, thinking out loud here...30' room going up to 4' height for acoustic insulation, equels....120sf times 2 walls, 240sf and ten half that again for the back wall...so real rough number would be 360sf or 360 dollars. Double that for material up to the soffit.

Either way, doesn't sound like budget would be the driving factor here.

Like I said, thinking out loud.

Thanks BIG!
post #225 of 1807
When figuring the surface area for the GoM, keep in mind that you want to sew as few seems as possible.

I guess what I'm getting at is that unless you can use a sewing machine, your 4' wall will cause a bit of waste (running the GoM horizontally) unless you use columns and they are close to 66" apart (running the G0M vertically).
post #226 of 1807
Thread Starter 
Good point Dan. I just measured, and I've got 76" between columns...

That's a 30% wastage going horizontal!

My wife is handy on the sewing maching, so seams won't be a problem for us. But I can't think of a way to do them that's not an eye sore...

Of course, 30% would be roughly another $100, which is probably worth it to not have seams.

You want to do things the right way, but all of these little decisions make a big difference in the bottom line, don't they.

I also need to thoroughly research why I need GOM. I'm thinking it must be fire code?

Dan, next time we see each other, I'm also ready to buy that Linacoustic off of you if you still want to sell it. How much did you have? I need about 50 liner feet (assuming 4' roll).
post #227 of 1807
We might have to measure to be certain but I'm pretty sure I have a little over 50 ft left.

The difference on the GoM is that it is acoustically transparent and it is fire rated. Many of the others are one or the other but not usually both. Double check the code for your county. I'm not sure it has to be fire rated where you are but with little ones in the house it's always best to be safe and go for the material that is rated.
post #228 of 1807
Thread Starter 
Thanks Dan. I'll take what you have. No rush.

Tonight I marked out the screen on the sheetrock wall and watched a bit of "Seabiscuit" in HDDVD. It is 2.35:1, and I watched it at 144" horizontal. At first, I was a little disappointed in the loss of PQ at that size, but after a half hour, my eyes adjusted to the "softer" image, and the shear size was enjoyable. The size fits the room proportions perfectly. The riser also worked well, as the middle row eye level ends up at 1/3rd screen height. Rear row at bar height will be right at the middle of the screen. It's funny how things fall into place when you plan them out.

I also played some standard DVD and it just didn't work out. Not enough resolution there for the size.

My projector is the Panasonic AE900, so I would think that by any charts or recommendations I'm well beyond its limits at 144". I'm confident, however, that the next projector and the one after that will all improve that I won't have to wait too long for the projector performance to grow into my screen size.

I was tempted to buy materials for the stage construction today, but held off. I'm still toying with the design.
post #229 of 1807
Tony

If you are going to cover all the walls up with fabric why mud the walls at all I myself just caulked all my seams real well before I did my fabric saved me a alot of work.

Are you planning on 2 layers of drywall or just one? if just one then you mite at least want to tape all the joints
post #230 of 1807
Thread Starter 
Hey Scott,

We're changing our minds a bit. I like the contrast of paint vs. material, so now the GOM will only go up to the chairail and paint above that. But point taken, I only need to finish the top half of the room. I plan a "quick" tape and mud job for the bottom half though. One layer of drywall.

I tested out my sample of seymourav AT material. Compaired to my current high gain (1.4?) screen, it did take the edge off the bright spots. I imagine that could be compensated with settings somewhat. The fabric texture wasn't a concern at one times screen width.
post #231 of 1807
Thread Starter 
Update:

Today I got part of the stage constructed. It will have a radial section on the front, but I've only built the rectangular portion so far.

I opted to go with 2x6's so that no riser would be needed. I'm hoping that the stage is actually used by the kids for family "performances", so I wanted to keep as much at one level as possible. Even as is, it won't be much room. The stage will be radial, and 4' at its deepest point.



I also opted for R13 fiberglass instead of sand. Many reasons.



I also installed a small 8,000BTU window unit in the basement. It's been a big help. I didn't think the basement would be too demanding, and my hunch was correct. This little unit is keeping 2000sf at 72 degrees. It makes for more pleasant work environment, and also enables us to put off the purchase of the central unit a few years. I know it's out of order for most builds, but I'm going to put in registers and returns years before the actual unit gets installed.

Another step down the path.
post #232 of 1807
Looking good! I must say, however (no offense intended), that the fancy-pillar/bare-OSB theme just doesn't work, although it is unique...
post #233 of 1807
(double posting a reply to your comment in my thread, since you are more likely to see it here...)

Good luck with the multi-curved stage front. It's much easier than I thought it would be. My only advice is:

- sketchup is your friend. Draw the curve of the stage, then figure out exactly how long all the framing pieces need to be to support your curved front. It even gave me the angle to cut the front of the 2x4's so the 1/4" ply would sit just right.

- 1/4" plywood curves quite easily and evenly. Curve one piece over your structure, then wood-glue/nail on a second and you have home made 1/2" curved plywood.

One hint on sketchup: If you draw an arc (like a stage front), it makes it up out of straight lines. By default it uses only a few lines and doesn't make for a very smooth curve. You can go into sketchup and adjust how many segments an arc is broken up into. Use lots of segments and you get a more accurate curve.
post #234 of 1807
It's coming right along, Tony. At this rate you'll finish before I will.
post #235 of 1807
Thread Starter 
Paul, you don't like my decor? hahaha. It seems to be a common theme here on the forum, but some stick with it a little longer than others.

I finished the stage...well, almost. I got the curved part built now. I kept it simple. It's just one large 18' radius curve, and all at one level. Wanting it to be a usable stage for the kids kept me from doing fancy elevation changes and multiple curves.



I'm happy with it. The spaces work out well. Enough room on stage for a little Romeo or future Eddie Van Halen! And still enough room between the front row seats and stage to allow for kiddies on beanbags.

I've also been chipping away at the sheetrock. The walls are now done. I'll be leaving the ceiling open until I get HVAC run.

Thanks to Dan, I've got a local supplier for Linacoustic and will be doing the front wall soon. Today I'm going to practice mudding the sheetrock on that wall. It'll be covered up, so good practice.

I've been wrestling with an idea. Knowing that my projector budget will always be in the less than $3000 range, I know that I'm pushing the limits with a 12' screen. Even so, I'm considering getting my screen in a 14' size. This will completely overwhelm my current projector (AE900), but doesn't it make sense to plan for the future? How long might it be before a $3000 projector can handle this screen size? I'm guessing 4-5 years?

I would just mask it off to the limits of the projector de jour. Sounds like an easier solution than re-building a screenwall down the road. Or am I underestimating the impact of a 12' screen? I've watched it on the sheetrock at that size and it seemed very comfortable.

Just some ramblings.... would enjoy hearing your input.

tony
post #236 of 1807
what will be your front row eyes to screen ?
post #237 of 1807
Thread Starter 
Scott, front row eyes are 13' from screenwall. So, I'll have a ratio of 1.1 to 1 if I go 12' horizontal (works nicely). If I went up to 14', I'd be at something close to .9 to 1.

Keep in mind, most viewing can and will be from the second row, which is at something more like 19 or 20'.

I remember not too long ago that 1.5x's screenwidth was recommended. That's changed with improved projectors and 1080p.

I just have to wonder if it might be smarter to build to what the "rules" will be?

On a side note, got a chance to visit a friends theater today and it proved to be a real treat! It was my first time seeing an RS2 in action, and was really impressed.
post #238 of 1807
Thread Starter 
Scott, I just read a post of yours from this morning, and it reminded me....you do have specific experience in this screen size! I remember asking about this on your thread now. You're at 12' and 13' to front row eyes. Exactly one of my options.

Aside from size, I like the proportions of your screenwall. The screen takes up all but a foot on each side. It gives a nice "full" appearance. I'd have to go 14' on the screen to get that appearance.

Looking forward to your input.
post #239 of 1807
Thread Starter 
I'm going to use OC703 as bass traps in the two front corners. Am I calculating right that I will get 4 triangles per sheet and at a 1" thickness will need 96 pieces per side for my 8' ceiling? So 24 sheets per side? cha-ching.
post #240 of 1807
Tony,

If you are going to use OC703 for your bass traps you might want to use the 2" rather than 1" and save yourself a bit of time and effort in cutting not to mention shipping cost unless you can get it locally. Otherwise you might as well use the Linacoustic. The coefficients are very similar between the Linacoustic and OC703. So similar, in-fact, that you probably won't hear the difference.

Here is Bob Gold's coefficients chart.

The main reason for using the OC703 for bass traps is that it is much easier to work with than Lincoustic because it is more rigid.
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