Twinseltown Theater - Page 4

Gonzo, I wasn't planning on any subfloor treatment. Half of the room is up on a riser, which I was going to use pressure treated for all contact points with the concrete. The basement is on a hillside, so really only the uphill wall is under soil. I just don't think I'm a high risk basement for moisture.

Although sound isolation is not a top priority, I do want to do the little things that will help. I'll wait for drywall before risers. This just means I've got to figure out electrical and hvac before I can really start. Doing the riser first was a way for me to be doing something while still in the planning stages. I suppose I could leave the back sides of walls and the ceiling open and that would allow electrical after sheetrock.

Nate, I would also like the riser to be more like 10", but doesn't code dictate risers to be between 7 and 8"? The extra 2" is not worth adding two platforms and doubling the risers.

Gonzo, I've had a close eye on moisture in the basement since it was poured about 8 months ago. We have been through a few bouts of 5" plus rainstorms and have not had any issues. I have 100% confidence I won't ever have a flood, but I suppose some "damp spots" could occur.

Can anyone point me to a source for construction sequence. I've done a search and didn't turn up much. I did get this....

----------------------
Subfloor (done)
Drywall (Room was already drywalled)
Riser (done)

Stage - framing (done)
Stage - fill with sand (Fri)
Stage - finish (Fri)

Screen wall (AT screen)

Soffit work

Projector housing

Paint (question on when - painting ceiling)

Treatments (but not finished to fabric)

Hang starfield

Carpet

Molding

Treatments (finish to fabric)

------------------------------------------------------------------

It doesn't put electrical in the sequence though.

Can someone give me a rough outline to follow?

One issue I will have: My brother in law is going to help with HVAC, but can't until this winter. I'd like to make some headway on the room before then. Do you think I could do electrical and sheetrock all but the ceiling (allowing me to then build the riser), prior to HVAC?

Also, I may need to have a subpanel installed for basement circuits. Can I wire the room up and have everything come back to a junction box near the future panel so that I can hook right up when its installed?

To steal a comment I saw on another thread, "Paralysis by analysis". I feel I need to get started on something before paralysis sets in.

I've been wanting to post this for awhile, but can't seem to get my scanner working right. This is the best resolution I'm getting? Anyway, somethings better than nothing.

The top photo was sort of the inspiration for the bar layout. The bottom photo is the overall room inspiration. I like the wall treatments, columns, chairail, color scheme, etc.

I'll try to post a better scan if I ever get it working right.

hahaha.... that's terrible. it looks much worse on the forum than it even did here at the house

So, you know I've been itching to swing a hammer or something....

I went out and got all the electrical boxes and wire, and picked up the first load of sheetrock.

Not too difficult. I used 1/2" in the 4x12 sheets. I was able to get one wall done. That's about all I can do until I build the front wall and finish off the rest of electrical. I'll post my electrical plan when I get a chance. It ended up being 4 circuits. One for general room oulets. Two, for sconces. Three for can lights. Four, for equipment. May add a fifth for two equipment circuits. I've still got to color code the plan so you can make sense of it here.

The next steps should be....

1. finish out electrical
2. Build front wall
3. Frame out rear wall
4. insulate
5. Sheetrock (all but ceiling. I'm leaving that open until later. Need access for HVAC)
4. Riser
5. Stage and screenwall

That's enough for now. I need to view this five steps at a time or else be overwhelmed.

Almost forgot, here's my little helpers. They're more about the popcorn than the work.

Here's the electrical plan.

One thing not shown is riser lights on the sconce circuit.

I'm very much novice at this, and would appreciate any comments.

Dan, Now you mention it!!! The boxes are in---and drywall cut already. Wouldn't be a big deal to change it now, but two reasons come to mind for doing it like I did. One, a sconce on a column will narrow down the room that much more. Two, I like the look of a sconce between columns. I suppose, sound isolation is just not as important to me as it is to most here.

One place that I do want to pay attention to sound traveling, is the ceiling. Our master bedroom is above the theater. I'm going to do double sheetrock and insulation there.

Jonathan, thanks.

Mike, thanks for the offer. I sent you a PM.

Thanks Mike! Sometimes you just need someone to point out the obvious. My save settings were set at too high a compression.

Here's the inspiration photos again. This time you can see them.

Okay, I can't go any further until I decide how to handle the insulation and screenwall.

Here you can see that it is a stairstepping concrete wall, roughly half of which is typical stud construction above grade (for that matter, half of the concrete is above grade too).



The issue I can't resolve is that the stud wall portion is not flush with the concrete face. It is 4" behind the face of concrete.




Based on other threads, I am thinking I will first insulate the existing upper stud wall with fiberglass batts. Then, build another wall that is 4" thick on top of the concrete wall so that I end up with a flush wall (half stud and half concrete). Then, fill the new 4" thick stud portion with more fiberglass batts. Then cover the whole face of wall with rigid 1" foam insulation. Lastly, build a new stud wall from floor to ceiling and fill that with fiberglass batts (with the paper either pulled off or perforated).

In the end, I end up with 3.5"+3.5"+1" rigid foam + 3.5", for a total of an 11.5" thick insulated wall.

Is this making sense? Does it sound appropriate?

Dan, I see what you're saying, but isn't that section of wall necessary to give support for the rigid foam? it does seem like its overbuilt just for supporting the rigid foam.

So, I'll pack the existing stud wall with fiberglass batts that are 8" thick (out to flush with the face of concrete). Then, put the 1" rigid foam and then my stud wall.

The top half of the rigid foam board would only be supported by the fiberglass batts on one side and the new stud wall on the inside.

I'm soliciting ideas here

So, I am overthinking this then.

One vote for filling the cavity, one for not. I think filling it makes me more comfortable. I can't think of a problem with filling it?

I think I'm going to follow Gonzo's suggestions but will fill the entire cavity with batting.

Well...my ears are smoking. I'm off to watch a movie. Yes, I know my construction pace will be slower with the projector operable.

Did the front wall insulation over the last few days. 1" rigid foam glued to the concrete, and R13 in the studs above. All of the foam is not glued in place yet, which is why it looks sloppy in the photo.



I've also got all my lumber here for the false wall in front of this, which will also get R13.

How should I attach the bottom plate of the wall to the concrete? My contractor had used 22cal gun cartridges, but I don't have that. Would you use concrete anchors? maybe every 4'? I am using pressure treated and putting it on that foam sill insulation stuff.

Slowly coming together.

Thanks Woolly. I will get some tape. The foam board has tounge and groove on it, so by adding the tape I should have as tight a seal as possible. That darn adhesive to attach to the wall goes fast! I used a whole tube for just one sheet.

I don't have a hammer drill, but have used masonry bits in a standard drill. I think I can get anchors in that way too.

Question: Should I use rigid foam board over the top of the concrete wall? There is about a 4" wide section along the top of the wall that is exposed.

By the way, I'm in Greenville, SC, near the intersection of South Carolina, Georgia, NOrth Carolina and Tennessee. Our climate is considered mild. I want to take all reasonable measure in insulation, but don't think I'm designing for the extreme.

Yes. And also that it gives me a wall to run electrical and place outlets, etc.