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Official Epik Subwoofer Thread - Page 666

post #19951 of 20352
Quote:
Originally Posted by Waffles View Post

Is there a pattern to recognize with all these defective subs? Is it mainly with the Empire and Legend subs? I am the owner of two Conquest subs and I'm starting to get a little nervous frown.gif

I think it's just the legend amps. I've read a few reports of empire amps going bad, but it seems like it's in the realm of normal failure rates.

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post #19952 of 20352
Quote:
Originally Posted by Waffles View Post

Is there a pattern to recognize with all these defective subs? Is it mainly with the Empire and Legend subs? I am the owner of two Conquest subs and I'm starting to get a little nervous frown.gif

the amp in my phoenix bit the dust just over a year ago. i had purchased it in late '09 so it lasted 3 years. i was lucky enough to get a replacement from chad and it's been working fine for a year now. has anyone had any problems with their replacement amp?

p.s. i hope people keep this thread going with their failed amp solutions.
post #19953 of 20352
Quote:
Originally Posted by grubadub View Post

the amp in my phoenix bit the dust just over a year ago. i had purchased it in late '09 so it lasted 3 years. i was lucky enough to get a replacement from chad and it's been working fine for a year now. has anyone had any problems with their replacement amp?

p.s. i hope people keep this thread going with their failed amp solutions.

How often does your phoenix get used? My Conquest's get used about every other weekend and sometimes less. I guess thats the benefit of not having your theater in the living room.
post #19954 of 20352
Quote:
Originally Posted by Waffles View Post

How often does your phoenix get used? My Conquest's get used about every other weekend and sometimes less. I guess thats the benefit of not having your theater in the living room.

my sub sees a lot of action. at least 5 nights a week with a mix of tv watching, concert blu rays and music listening. most of it is light to medium duty. i take in a hard hitting action movie a couple times a month.
post #19955 of 20352
The BASH 300w arrived today. It only has one lead (red and black) unlike the Epik amp which has two (each with red and black). Since the Epik has two 12" subwoofers I cut the two leads from the Epik amp and slid them into the solderless crimp terminals of the BASH amp lead. However I've got no signal going to the Epik subwoofer (no movement from either 12" subwoofer). Do I just need to tighten the crimps on the bare wire or will I need to order female leads to connect into the male leads?
post #19956 of 20352

You do want to make sure you have solid contact to the leads.  Without seeing exactly what you are working with, I would probably just cut the connectors off the ends and strip the insulation off and crimp them together.  It sounds like you might not have a good connection, otherwise you don't have a signal or the amp is bad.  I'm assuming the speakers them selves are good and not blown.  IF you have an ohm meter, you can measure the impedance of the speakers, they should each be approximately 8 ohms.

post #19957 of 20352
I figured out the problem. I wired them wrong redface.gif lol. I've got it working now. I cut the old leads from the Epik amp and connected them to the lead from the BASH 300w. I tested the amp just to make sure everything is working and sure enough I'm getting a response from both woofers. I had to turn the gain a bit higher than with the Epik amp and the sound was much less tight than I am used too but that makes sense because I had not sealed off the opening where the previous amp was placed. The plan is to drill a hole through the center of the old Epik amp plate for the leads to go through and re-attach it to the sub until such time as I am prepared to modify the cabinet. I will cut and attach MDF boards to the BASH amp to keep it off of the ground for the time being. As soon as I'm done with everything I will take some pictures and post them up.

I am still trying to get a hold of Chad. No returned emails or phone calls yet. The answering machine says that the mail box is full. So its not looking good so far.
post #19958 of 20352

Glad you figured it out.  Let us know how it sounds once you seal it up.  

post #19959 of 20352
Would a Behringer inuke 3000 drive two Empires as well as the stock amp? The numbers on these pro amps seem rather optimistic.

I can't believe both my Empires fried within days of each other. These subs were sparingly used..

Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk
post #19960 of 20352
More hang ups. Long story short: ordered BASH from parts express via amazon b/c I have an amazon gift card. they sent me a Dayton 70w amp instead. I'm in such a rush to hook up my new amp that I don't realize its the wrong one and severely underpowered (no wonder it sounded loose and needed more gain). Amazon says I have to reorder a new BASH but they can't immediately credit back my gift card so I have to wait a couple of days.

Hey Epik, wouldn't it have just been easier to have picked up the phone, returned some emails, and replaced the defective junk you sold your customers rolleyes.gif

But hey, can't wait until those world beating new subwoofers get unveiled.
post #19961 of 20352
Quote:
Originally Posted by joegator81 View Post

Hey Epik, wouldn't it have just been easier to have picked up the phone, returned some emails, and replaced the defective junk you sold your customers rolleyes.gif

Let's face it. Epik is out of business. It's been a year since they sold anything.
post #19962 of 20352
oh, I know they are long gone. I've tried calling. emails. hence the rolleyes.gif instead of the mad.gif
post #19963 of 20352
Quote:
Originally Posted by grubadub View Post

p.s. i hope people keep this thread going with their failed amp solutions.

I'm not an owner of your brand of sub but I did replace a plate amp earlier this year.

as6new.jpg

The plate amp in this old B&W AS6 sub lasted about ten years. The replacement amp you see in the image is a 250 watt AB biased model from Parts Express that cost $100 delivered. I chose the amp because it was almost exactly the same dimenstions as the old one. I only had to enlarge the hole about 1/8" along the bottom. with a chisel. Then I simply soldered the wires together and screwed it in place. It took about 15 minutes. This is a trivial repair for anyone with basic electronics and woodworking skills. I use this sub in my bedroom system. A replacement sub would have cost about $500.
post #19964 of 20352
My original Phoenix amp died a year after I purchased the sub. The replacement died about two months ago (lasted about 2.5 years. I refuse to get another replacement amp from them since the smoke from the fried amp stained my carpet permanently. The next amp might burn the whole house down.
post #19965 of 20352
I just removed the amp on one of my Empires. I did not expect there to be a compartment for the amp. Anyway, I removed all the boards on the amp from the plate and I plan on using the plate to attach speakon connectors. Do I need a multimeter to test the drivers before wiring it up? Although I've assembled a kit speaker before I've never messed around with subs or speakon connectors. I'm assuming the red wire is + and black is negative? I would appreciate any pointers.
post #19966 of 20352
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy joe divola View Post

My original Phoenix amp died a year after I purchased the sub. The replacement died about two months ago (lasted about 2.5 years. I refuse to get another replacement amp from them since the smoke from the fried amp stained my carpet permanently. The next amp might burn the whole house down.

well, from my experience repairing amps, all the China made amps can do this, including all the replacement amps mentioned in this entire thread. they are inexpensive, and you get what you pay for.

and thats why i always use the power switch and turn it completely off when not in use on my personal amps, even though mine have been un-Chinaized. when using auto turn on/standby on a sub amp, the power supply section of the amp is still powered up. if you look around the forum, you can find stories of amps blowing up even if not in use.... that cant happen when it is completely powered off. powering completely off will not only prevent a fire, but will also extend the life of the amp power supply significantly.
post #19967 of 20352
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveds50 View Post

powering completely off will not only prevent a fire, but will also extend the life of the amp power supply significantly.

That's news to me. My completely unsignitific and unsupported thought had always been that leaving it on would avoid the 'surge' and small 'pop' of powering on the amp. Kind of like the old style light bulbs usually burn out as they are being turned on.
post #19968 of 20352
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidMP View Post

Kind of like the old style light bulbs usually burn out as they are being turned on.
They did so because the filament was weak, and couldn't handle shock from the inrush current. The reason the filament was weak was the hours of use.
post #19969 of 20352

Yep, pretty straight forward.  just match up the colors.  Red = + and Black =-.  Parallel the speakers wires and hook them to the amp.  That's about it.

post #19970 of 20352
I really can't believe Chad just won't admit the company is at least temporarily closed.
post #19971 of 20352
Quote:
Originally Posted by blake18 View Post

I really can't believe Chad just won't admit the company is at least temporarily closed.

I've sent him email after email and finally just asked him to admit its over and admit that I won't be getting a replacement for my defective warranty covered amp but still no response. I would just like to hear him say that any effort on my part is useless. If he did I would be fine with that. I would respect that. I would go away, would not go to the BBB or even continue to make such a big deal on a forum such as this one. But until then, I think its important to make these problems public.
post #19972 of 20352
Quote:
Originally Posted by joegator81 View Post

I would go away, would not go to the BBB or even continue to make such a big deal on a forum such as this one. But until then, I think its important to make these problems public.

I was under the impression a warranty was a legally binding document, thus refusing to honor one while the company claims to still be in business sounds as though it should be considered a far more egregious violation than anything a toothless organization like the BBB would be involved in. At this point I wonder if that's not the better course of action.
post #19973 of 20352
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post

I was under the impression a warranty was a legally binding document, thus refusing to honor one while the company claims to still be in business sounds as though it should be considered a far more egregious violation than anything a toothless organization like the BBB would be involved in. At this point I wonder if that's not the better course of action.

Are you suggesting legal action? With so many customers being shown the cold shoulder perhaps a class action suit is the way to go.
post #19974 of 20352
Quote:
Originally Posted by joegator81 View Post


Are you suggesting legal action? With so many customers being shown the cold shoulder perhaps a class action suit is the way to go.

You have to know it would be a waste of time, I'm sure at this point the Company has no assets and I have to believe Chad has shielded himself.  I made two calls and gave up on my warranty claim. 

 

 I ordered a new Bash 500 plate amp from parts express and spent this afternoon enlarging the hole for the amp in my legend. The amp should be here Tuesday so I'll be up and running for Christmas. I figure if the 300 watt original was stressed maybe the 500 will be enough for a little more headroom at least it's different brand amp. I'll report my results after I see how things work out.

 

 I still plan on having my EE friend try to fix the amp out of the Legend or at least try to figure out why it failed.  If it was just cheap Chinese parts we'll replace them and I'll offer it up for sale to help out someone else with a dead legend.

 

You have to know when to fish or cut bait,  as far as Epik is concerned it's time to cut bait! 

post #19975 of 20352
I think he should take down the website especially if he's not going to communicate.
post #19976 of 20352
I guess with it being basically over a year now since Chad was blowing the old subs out and still nothing regarding his new 18" we can all assume Epik is pretty much over and done with?
post #19977 of 20352
If Epik is not done, they must be like a 7 year locust on something, lol..smile.gif
post #19978 of 20352
Even if he did release a new sub, who would buy it? I for one regret not shelling out for a Seaton...

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post #19979 of 20352
Quote:
Originally Posted by dannybenz View Post

Even if he did release a new sub, who would buy it? I for one regret not shelling out for a Seaton..
A Epik + replacement amp is still cheaper than a Seaton. I have 2 Empires that are still working (knock on wood).

I am curious what's better for the subs auto on or cutting power. I use my system daily. I've heard the power switch circuit can fail so its better to leave it on auto. I dunno.
post #19980 of 20352

I always though leaving it on all the time is better than on/off every day??

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