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The "Official" Yamaha RX-V1800/RX-V3800 Thread - Page 255

post #7621 of 8636
Quote:
Originally Posted by bezlar View Post

I've played around with it some more and the only PLIIx that it will let me select is music it wont let select the movie PLIIx? My system is 6.1 would that have any affect on this? Is PLIIx better than ES/EX?

Thanks
Barry

What are the exact steps you are taking to attempt to select PLIIx Movie?
If PLIIx Music is the only thing offered then I wonder if you might not be pressing the correct button on your remote to scroll through them.
I don't use "x" as I have a 5.1 setup but I'd presume PLIIx should offer more selections like Sports, Games, etc...
post #7622 of 8636
Quote:
Originally Posted by bezlar View Post

I've played around with it some more and the only PLIIx that it will let me select is music it wont let select the movie PLIIx? My system is 6.1 would that have any affect on this? Is PLIIx better than ES/EX?

For Yamaha AVRs configured as 6.1, a DPLIIxMovie mode would be identical to EX post processing; consequently Yamaha AVRs (at least the recent ones) offer only EX mode when configured as 6.1 (and either EX or DPLIIXMovie modes when configured as 7.1).
post #7623 of 8636
I am looking at possibly buying the PSB Imagine speaker system which use 4 ohms for all speakers. I can power the front two speakers with the internal Yamaha amp but would need to purchase a separate amp for the center and surround speakers and use the pre-outs for those speakers.

I also need to continue to use my zone 2 and zone 3 speakers. It's not totally clear to me from reading the manual if this will work. Can anyone tell me if I can continue to use the Yamaha amp for the zone 2 and 3 speakers and also use the pre-outs for the center a surround speakers?
Thanks
post #7624 of 8636
Quote:
Originally Posted by tristan2 View Post

I am looking at possibly buying the PSB Imagine speaker system which use 4 ohms for all speakers. I can power the front two speakers with the internal Yamaha amp but would need to purchase a separate amp for the center and surround speakers and use the pre-outs for those speakers.

I also need to continue to use my zone 2 and zone 3 speakers. It's not totally clear to me from reading the manual if this will work. Can anyone tell me if I can continue to use the Yamaha amp for the zone 2 and 3 speakers and also use the pre-outs for the center a surround speakers?
Thanks

Simple answer is Yes. I use all my preouts to a Outlaw Audio amp to run a 5.1 system, Zone 2 for my library speakers and Zone 3 amps for my Front Effect speakers. You should have no problems. Why would you not get a 5 or 7 channel amp to run all your speakers? Or you could get a really great 2 channel amp for the PSB then use the Yamaha to run center and surrounds. Just a thought.
post #7625 of 8636
Quote:
Originally Posted by tristan2 View Post

...Can anyone tell me if I can continue to use the Yamaha amp for the zone 2 and 3 speakers and also use the pre-outs for the center a surround speakers?

Yes, as long as you're not trying to have more than 7 speakers active at a time. The 1800/3800 are strictly 7.1 receivers, whether you use an external amp or not.
post #7626 of 8636
Thanks for the quick feedback.
I may look at your idea of a 5 channel amp. What is bugging me is that I wanted to purchase the PSB Image line of speakers but when I heard the Imagine speakers I felt they were for me. But they are much more expensive and now I'm also having to buy an amp. So it's just that the $'s are adding up.
If I understand this correctly I can't run the center and surrounds with my current 1800 because the center and surround speakers (as well as the fronts of course) are 4 ohms and the manual says that I can only drive the front left and right at 4 ohms and the other speakers have to be rated at 6 ohms or 8 ohms which they are not. Am I missing something?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hometheatergeek View Post

Simple answer is Yes. I use all my preouts to a Outlaw Audio amp to run a 5.1 system, Zone 2 for my library speakers and Zone 3 amps for my Front Effect speakers. You should have no problems. Why would you not get a 5 or 7 channel amp to run all your speakers? Or you could get a really great 2 channel amp for the PSB then use the Yamaha to run center and surrounds. Just a thought.
post #7627 of 8636
Well, all channels would seem to be identical. Perhaps the heat sinking is not identical, but that would be about it.

I strongly suspect they just don't think you should run more than two 4-ohm speakers at the same time. Which ones are likely not too important. Three is probably not a big stretch. Five would be asking a lot of any receiver. That does not stop people from doing it though
post #7628 of 8636
Quote:
Originally Posted by tristan2 View Post

Thanks for the quick feedback.
I may look at your idea of a 5 channel amp. What is bugging me is that I wanted to purchase the PSB Image line of speakers but when I heard the Imagine speakers I felt they were for me. But they are much more expensive and now I'm also having to buy an amp. So it's just that the $'s are adding up.
If I understand this correctly I can't run the center and surrounds with my current 1800 because the center and surround speakers (as well as the fronts of course) are 4 ohms and the manual says that I can only drive the front left and right at 4 ohms and the other speakers have to be rated at 6 ohms or 8 ohms which they are not. Am I missing something?

I looked at the specs of the Image Series and they are rated at 4 ohms Minimum and 6 ohms Nominal. Even the towers have the same rating. So they would typically run at 6 ohms most of the time. I really don't see a problem with you using the Yamaha to run all of the speakers. Just try it and see. Check to make sure the 1800 does not get really hot. You will not harm the Yamaha. It will protect itself.

Do you already have a subwoofer? If so you would be setting up the bass management for all speakers as small anyway. This will also help the Yamaha to be able to run all of the speakers.
However, if you plan on pushing the system to high decible levels then I would recommend considering a external amp down the road.

Don't you just love this hobby?
post #7629 of 8636
I too was confused by the names of their speaker lines. The Image line is what I originally intended to buy and indeed it is 6 ohms. However, when I actually listened to the speakers it's the next line up that I really like. It's called Imagine (not Image). That line of speakers is 4 ohms for each of the 3 different speakers (fronts, center and surround). Yes, I have an HSU subwoofer.
Yep, I do enjoy this hobby. But at times it can be frustrating, and expensive. Thanks for your input.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hometheatergeek View Post

I looked at the specs of the Image Series and they are rated at 4 ohms Minimum and 6 ohms Nominal. Even the towers have the same rating. So they would typically run at 6 ohms most of the time. I really don't see a problem with you using the Yamaha to run all of the speakers. Just try it and see. Check to make sure the 1800 does not get really hot. You will not harm the Yamaha. It will protect itself.

Do you already have a subwoofer? If so you would be setting up the bass management for all speakers as small anyway. This will also help the Yamaha to be able to run all of the speakers.
However, if you plan on pushing the system to high decible levels then I would recommend considering a external amp down the road.

Don't you just love this hobby?
post #7630 of 8636
Oops. I can see how that happens. Sry about that.

So yes you would be in a bind. How about going to Audiogon.com and see if you can find a used 3 channel amp for center and surrounds. Or sell the Yamaha for $750 and put that towards a new or used AVR that can handle a 4 ohm load. Because the Yammy will have issues with all speakers at 4 ohms. You read the manual correctly.

Good luck. You shouldn't have a hard time selling the Yammy

I forgot to ask which Hsu do you own? I own a Dual Drive Uls-15 system and am extremely pleased with their performance.
post #7631 of 8636
I am trying to see where to hook up an HDMI and a 2-wire audio out from an HTPC into the 3800 AVR I have. I have all the 4 HDMI names taken, one (a BD player) using HDMI and all others (DVD, SAT/CBL, and DVR) via component, and RCA/AC3 audio.

Can I hook up the HTPC to a VCR audio and the DVR HDMI and set them together, separate from the DVR in the component and RCA/AC3 lines? Can the 3800 differentiate such a setting in its menu?

Thanks in advance of any help - I have a short time window to re-wire (the HTPC was formerly direct to the TV) while my TV is in the shop undergoing repair/maybe replacement.
post #7632 of 8636
can someone please tell if Yamaha release any firmware that fix the DTS Channel Remapping bug, i just cant read 255 pages

thanks in advance
post #7633 of 8636
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmmesch View Post

...Can I hook up the HTPC to a VCR audio and the DVR HDMI and set them together, separate from the DVR in the component and RCA/AC3 lines? Can the 3800 differentiate such a setting in its menu?

You should be able to do that with the I/O assign menu. Pick an unused input name (e.g. VCR), and then specify which physical inputs you want to associate with it.
post #7634 of 8636
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmmesch View Post

I am trying to see where to hook up an HDMI and a 2-wire audio out from an HTPC into the 3800 AVR I have. I have all the 4 HDMI names taken, one (a BD player) using HDMI and all others (DVD, SAT/CBL, and DVR) via component, and RCA/AC3 audio.

Can I hook up the HTPC to a VCR audio and the DVR HDMI and set them together, separate from the DVR in the component and RCA/AC3 lines? Can the 3800 differentiate such a setting in its menu?

You should see that the unused VCR input has an option to assign it an HDMI input. So with your stereo cables hooked to VCR and an assigned HDMI input, you should be good to go.
post #7635 of 8636
Quote:
Originally Posted by MATA7 View Post

can someone please tell if Yamaha release any firmware that fix the DTS Channel Remapping bug

The only bug I'm aware of related to DTS speaker remapping causes the front panel channel indicators to show 7.1 when receiving a 5.1 DTS-HD bitstream. But it only affects the channel indicators and not the actual sound, so it's really not a significant problem.
post #7636 of 8636
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpco View Post

You should see that the unused VCR input has an option to assign it an HDMI input. So with your stereo cables hooked to VCR and an assigned HDMI input, you should be good to go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

You should be able to do that with the I/O assign menu. Pick an unused input name (e.g. VCR), and then specify which physical inputs you want to associate with it.

Thank you both. As ridiculous as this sounds, can someone else with a 3800 check this out (that the unused VCR input has an option to assign it an HDMI input). I can't right now as that TV is is in the shop undergoing diagnostics and repairs.
post #7637 of 8636
Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

The only bug I'm aware of related to DTS speaker remapping causes the front panel channel indicators to show 7.1 when receiving a 5.1 DTS-HD bitstream. But it only affects the channel indicators and not the actual sound, so it's really not a significant problem.

thanks for you help man
post #7638 of 8636
Anybody here know if it's possible to make "Pure Direct" as the default mode for the RX-V1800? If possible, how?
post #7639 of 8636
Quote:
Originally Posted by tristan2 View Post

Thanks for the quick feedback.
I may look at your idea of a 5 channel amp. What is bugging me is that I wanted to purchase the PSB Image line of speakers but when I heard the Imagine speakers I felt they were for me. But they are much more expensive and now I'm also having to buy an amp. So it's just that the $'s are adding up.
If I understand this correctly I can't run the center and surrounds with my current 1800 because the center and surround speakers (as well as the fronts of course) are 4 ohms and the manual says that I can only drive the front left and right at 4 ohms and the other speakers have to be rated at 6 ohms or 8 ohms which they are not. Am I missing something?

I'm running an entire PSB Image suite off my Yamaha RX-V1800 and the receiver doesn't even get hot. I have the T45, the older Image 8C and 1Bs (C40 and B15 respectively) and the receiver powers them very nicely indeed. I've had teh unit play in teh high 80s for the entire duration of "Fly Boys" and the receiver although warm never really got hot. This in a cabinet with the back punche out, less than an inch clearance on teh sides and 5" at the top.

You won't have any problmes with that receiver. And leave the impedance selector to 8 ohms. Thats were mine is set to.
post #7640 of 8636
Their naming convention confused me at first as well. I originally was going with the Image line but my question had to do with the Imagine line of speakers not the Image line. Unlike the Image speakers, the Imagine are 4 ohm not 6 ohm. Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3db View Post

I'm running an entire PSB Image suite off my Yamaha RX-V1800 and the receiver doesn't even get hot. I have the T45, the older Image 8C and 1Bs (C40 and B15 respectively) and the receiver powers them very nicely indeed. I've had teh unit play in teh high 80s for the entire duration of "Fly Boys" and the receiver although warm never really got hot. This in a cabinet with the back punche out, less than an inch clearance on teh sides and 5" at the top.

You won't have any problmes with that receiver. And leave the impedance selector to 8 ohms. Thats were mine is set to.
post #7641 of 8636
As an epilogue, I hooked the HDMI of the HTPC to DVR HDMI input of the 3800, and the audio to the DVR analog audio. Sound came through and the PC sounds noise like something's connected and "sees" the TV in display options, but nothing I adjust on the 3800, the PC, or the TV would show an image on the TV.

Now, I pass the video into the TV and the audio into CD and it works.
post #7642 of 8636
I don't/don't/don't want to use my Yamaha remote to control everything, thanks. I would like to know the code to enter into my Directv remote to control the volume up and down on my 1800. I tried all the codes listed on the directv site and everywhere else I can find, without luck. Does anyone know what code to enter into the Directv remote?
post #7643 of 8636
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foleydb View Post

I don't/don't/don't want to use my Yamaha remote to control everything, thanks. I would like to know the code to enter into my Directv remote to control the volume up and down on my 1800. I tried all the codes listed on the directv site and everywhere else I can find, without luck. Does anyone know what code to enter into the Directv remote?

Does your DirecTV remote have a simple "learn" function? If so you could just simply program the Volume up & down.
post #7644 of 8636
Quote:
Originally Posted by fquails View Post

Anybody here know if it's possible to make "Pure Direct" as the default mode for the RX-V1800? If possible, how?

I believe Pure Direct must be "engaged", leaving no way to set it as a default.
post #7645 of 8636
just hooked up my E.D. a3-300 sub and was wondering how much you all had to turn up the SUB channel in the receiver on an 1800. I have the volume on the sub to about 1:00 and still needed to up the receiver sub setting a 3-5 notches to the right from center to get it where it sounded right for movies...

thanks,
Dan
post #7646 of 8636
Quote:
Originally Posted by toby10 View Post

I believe Pure Direct must be "engaged", leaving no way to set it as a default.

thanks!
post #7647 of 8636
Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow98stang View Post

just hooked up my E.D. a3-300 sub and was wondering how much you all had to turn up the SUB channel in the receiver on an 1800. I have the volume on the sub to about 1:00 and still needed to up the receiver sub setting a 3-5 notches to the right from center to get it where it sounded right for movies...

thanks,
Dan

It all depends on your room size (l x w x h), openings to adjacent rooms and their size, relative volume of the other speakers in your system.

My sub output level on the 1800 is set anywhere from -2dB to +2dB, depending on which memory setting I 'm using (which depends on what material I'm listening to, and listening position).

EDIT: for some subwoofers, using a y-cable to connect the LFE cable to both L/R increases the signal coming into the Sub, thus increasing the sub's output. again, that's for SOME subwoofers. not sure about your specific brand.

A couple of things to check:

Set your 1800's DRC to "Off"
Set your 1800's LFE to "0dB" (no attenuation)
Set Dynamic Range to "Max"

If still not enough, you can decrease the volume levels of your other speakers to compensate for the low signal coming from the sub.

Are you using a SPL meter? If so, using the 1800's pink tone, set the subwoofer volume so that it's 3-5 dB louder than your other speakers from the listening position.

Hope that helps.
post #7648 of 8636
Quote:
Originally Posted by fquails View Post

It all depends on your room size (l x w x h), openings to adjacent rooms and their size, relative volume of the other speakers in your system.

My sub output level on the 1800 is set anywhere from -2dB to +2dB, depending on which memory setting I 'm using (which depends on what material I'm listening to, and listening position).

EDIT: for some subwoofers, using a y-cable to connect the LFE cable to both L/R increases the signal coming into the Sub, thus increasing the sub's output. again, that's for SOME subwoofers. not sure about your specific brand.

A couple of things to check:

Set your 1800's DRC to "Off"
Set your 1800's LFE to "0dB" (no attenuation)
Set Dynamic Range to "Max"

If still not enough, you can decrease the volume levels of your other speakers to compensate for the low signal coming from the sub.

Are you using a SPL meter? If so, using the 1800's pink tone, set the subwoofer volume so that it's 3-5 dB louder than your other speakers from the listening position.

Hope that helps.

when adjusting the sub or speakers, does every notch = dB? everyone always says how many dB +-, but i haven't seen any actual numbers when adjusting the settings...
post #7649 of 8636
Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow98stang View Post

when adjusting the sub or speakers, does every notch = dB? everyone always says how many dB +-, but i haven't seen any actual numbers when adjusting the settings...

1 notch = .5dB

To see actual numbers, use your remote's "level" button. It's near the cursor buttons on the remote (up, left, down, right, and enter in the middle). The "level" button is in the upper left hand corner of that cluster.

EDIT: for that to work, Memory Guard has to be "off".
post #7650 of 8636
Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow98stang View Post

when adjusting the sub or speakers, does every notch = dB? everyone always says how many dB +-, but i haven't seen any actual numbers when adjusting the settings...

It just occurred to me: your listening position may be in a bass null. Try placing the subwoofer in your listening position, and crawl around the room to listen for the best bass. Then you move the sub to where you heard the best bass.
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